Servicing a Nakamichi BX series cassette control motor (sankyo x-port) BX-1, BX-2, BX-100, 150, etc.
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2020
- How to service a control motor failure assuming motor has a restorable commutator.
Failures include transport jamming, blinking control lights, endless cycling.
also identified bad flywheel causing excess wow and flutter. belts crucial on these! 
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I watched the Video a couple times,and I thought NO WAY. That's out of my league. I followed your exact instructions. Was off on one ....thing. I forgot to mark the Cam gear. So I came back and found where you had place yours.Put it all back together. And Boom. BX-150 restored to working order.I can't THANK YOU enough!!!! Now I've got a BX-100 and an RX-202 with the same issues. I hope this can help others as much as it has helped me.
Seconded! I have never soldered anything in my life, and today I successfully resurrected my BX-100. I feel like a king. Thank you!!!
I know im asking randomly but does anyone know a way to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@Memphis Blaze Instablaster =)
@Kyson Hunter thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kyson Hunter It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out!
This is a good example of how much labor can be required just to access the culprit, providing you even know which component is acting up. So much patience, skill, and knowledge is needed to work on these complex machines!
Thanks for the video. It is one of the best cassette player repairs I have watched, because you showed every step and explained what you were doing. Plus tips on cleaning and lubrication. Top work.
Clean bench!! Great informative video from you as always!! Always a pleasure
Your videos often give me the courage to tackle projects like this, rather than consigning them to the e-waste dumpster.
Great referb, and thanks for sharing.
A great and in-depth repair on that Nak transport. You attended to every detail. I was authorized Nak service in the 70's, and still occasionally maintain my ZX-7 when necessary. For the last 20 years or so, it's just been belts and occasionally the idler tire. Great video.
Nice job I used to do the same thing as a very young kid to work on my old slot car motors. But you had better tools available than I did as a kid. Nice job. And wow, who would think that the metal would go bad on the flywheel. That is crazy.
I have to thank you too for this great video and super clear instructions. I suddenly had the same problem come up a couple days ago on my Nakamichi BX-2 (nothing functioned when the buttons were pressed) and after watching your video a couple times and running to the store to get some Deoxit I gave it a go. All went smoothly and I now have a perfectly functioning vintage cassette deck again. I hope to get many more years enjoyment from this deck.
Thank you so very much for making this in depth video - helped me get my BX125 back into my stereo system (it spent the last 15 years sitting on a shelf, waiting to be rescued). Amazing!
Great video with good detail ... just repaired my BX-125 from high school and am listening to old tapes again - thank much!
this was very useful as a new owner of a BX-300 with all of the symptoms of a deadspot in the commutator. THANKS!
Thank you for such a great video. I just had to repair the motor on my BX-2 doing exactly what you showed. Repair worked perfectly and my BX-2 is running beautifully again.
Perfect timing! I just picked up a Nakamichi BX-1 for $5 locally and it's got the symptoms of a non-working control motor. I'll be watching this video tonight.
Thanks for the video! Answered so many questions in 1 video.Much appreciated!!!
That looked like an 8 track tape cartridge that was sitting on top of that wow and flutter meter.
Didn't think that Capstan flywheel would go out of shape with cracks like that either.
Nice to see how u have it going a lot better smoothly with the new loan flywheel and belts. And the servo control motor looked a lot better cleaned out,,,and working the mechanism faster in response to the playback controls too.
Great tutorial. Just fixed my RX-202 with the help of this guide, identical transport as far as I can see, just fitted upside down!
I thank you very much for this video. My BX300 just failed and you have diagnosed the problem. I have watched the beginning, I got as far as "don't lose the ball bearing" and "mark the cam"😅 now I am certain I need to leave it to a professional 😢
Awesome repair video! Thanks so much for showing us.
I repaired my old Pioneer Tapedeck with two drops of oil, one drop fot the capstan pin shaft and one drop for the capstan motor front bearing. Now it is quite. Thank you! Greetings from Switzerland! - Das ist gut! ;-)
Thanks for a great video! I often tell my customers, "Anything CAN be fixed, but not everything should be". A Nakamichi deck SHOULD be fixed. A replacement function motor was no where to be found. I didn't consider rebuilding the motor. Nice job!
Nice video! Gave me the confidence and knowledge to repair my BX1. Thank you.
The man is pure talent! Top notch!
Thank you so much for this video. It made reconditioning the control motor on my RX-202 a breeze. The guy in the background complaining was also really entertaining:)
Man this was a super vid!! Although I don’t have this unit, I have seen other vids about this unit and yours is far more Professional and clear. The best part of the vid is when you did the Wow and flutter test. To think that the quarter of the belts makes a difference, along with the condition of the adjoining parts was very interesting. I just got my RX-202E, I live in Germany, serviced because of the idler and the belts for the cassette tray, and although it costed a few hundred (227€-$288) it was worth it since I have had this piece since new in 86!! Newly I just picked up a non-running 505E for cheap, but it has issues with the cassette slowly turning from A-B, it doesn’t play, but looks brand new. I’m assuming it’s the idler and belts again, but I am afraid to get in there and mess things up. Can you give me your opinion as to what could be wrong and also with regards to the belts, what should I look for or which brand is best for my player, assuming that ALL connected parts are on the one? Maybe you could do a vid on the 505 or 202? Thanks again for the valuable info.
The slowness changing sides is a combination of old belts and hardened grease in the pivots for the cassette holder. Requires extreme care in servicing. I don't see many 505 and 202 in for service but if I can make a video on one I will
I have that exact model tape deck! I even recall having to service the control motor, which is a given for this vintage of a tape deck.
The transport's gears decided to munch themselves the last time I had it running, so it's a glorified parts unit at this point, unfortunately.
Very much enjoyed. Liked. All my best.
That's what I call a fantastic technician, what else can I say.
Very Very Good Video A1 Love your work :)
PS. Great thorough Repair/service excellent. thanks.
Found a Nakamichi much like this one at the dump years ago. Had a bad mode motor but
otherwise worked. Put it on E-bay & got $500 for it !
LFOD !
Great video Jordan, just discovered it. I hope you are doing fine havent seen any new videos lately. Probably alot of work. Take care my friend.
Vince
Excellent! Thank you
They fixed mine and works great.
Excellent service jordan, i can see you have done a lot of nakamichi decks.
I have repaired a lot of ordinary tape decks in the distant past, the drive belts and capstan roller get really nasty as no one wants to pay for a tapedeck service.
Once tape decks became cheap-n-nasty i lost interest, the plastic flywheel and cheap crappy motor could have been replaced but no one wanted to pay for it. (in the bin).
For motor commutators i used one of those rubbery blocks with fine grit in it, gary blocks for auto paint prep or similar.
Great for cleaning the tarnish off stereo record/play mode switches when dissasembled.
Thank you for this video.
love from India.
i like teprecorder
These Sankyo transports are fairly easy to work on, compared to other cassette transports. They may have some issues after 40 years but at least they can be fixed.
Its turning out more that many of the pot-metal flywheels these transports use are cracking and falling apart.
Someone needs to make steel replacements. Shame to see these decks have to hit the bin because of it.
Hello Jordan, thank you so much for this video! I have a Nakamichi DR-2 which I would like to repair and your video makes me feel that I can do. The only thing is, as the DR-2 is dual-capstan, the control motor is mounted sideways and...oh dear. Any chance you could please do a similar video next time you get a dual-capstan in, please?
こんにちは。 Fortunately, the cam motor of my BX-2 is fine so far but this video is helpful. Arigatou
Excellent video, thank you so much for the detailed tutorial. I had a BX-125 in need of a fresh idler tire / general servicing that more distressingly also made a faint yet audible crunching sound upon regular playback, turns out the flywheel had befallen a similar fate as yours. Do you think the cause of the material degradation could be (something like) zinc pest? Whatever is causing the decay it is clearly pervasive (i.e., not merely topical). I replaced the faulty flywheel and re-constructed the assembly and now the flywheel doesn't turn, I thought I might have goofed somewhere in the rebuild but having watched you perform the same procedure I now think it's just the belt (we'll see, I suppose). Anyway, just wanted to say thank you for the valuable resource as well as to make note of the degrading-deforming flywheel issue as a non-isolated issue.
Very good.😊
47:22 not many people know but Nakamichi belts used to be ground to size, it's kinda the same process as lapping metal, just on rubber.
This video on how to sand down belts with 600 sand tool may be useful : ruclips.net/video/UVxERhseLT8/видео.html
Impressive
Great video Jordan! Question... In the video you discuss that Marr belts aren't the go-to belts for these anymore and you use a Russell Industries belt set (which someone else also recommended to me). However at the end you show dissatisfaction with the wow/flutter you achieved and replaced it with an old OEM belt. So in the present day Jan 2021, what belt would you recommend for these? I just ordered from Marr a few weeks ago for my BX 300 and now having buyers remorse. Someone on tapeheads also mentioned they (Marr) aren't what they used to be. Thanks!!
It's a difficult choice anymore. Russell is good with some sizes of belts and not with others. I've found that with the bx series nakamichi decks with the sankyo transport the russell industries belts don't cut it. Studio sound electronics used to have good belts, but no more. Marrs don't come through either. It's getting tougher for cassesste aficionados to get what they need.
I have a DR-10 where the capstan motor is seizing. I’m betting it has dead spots due to the carbon build up inside the motor. I’m definitely gonna try this!
Good video. I repaired my BX-100 a few months ago using instructions I found on Tapeheads forum. It was successful and the deck works. But the head assy when it lifts sort of lifts halfway and then comes up to play position. The cam assy. seems to be in correct position after I took it back out and examined it. Any ideas on what might be causing this?
P.S. Also the heads lift and go back down for ffw and rewind but after those functions work correctly.
Very helpful video, thanks! I have a Nakamichi BX-125E, when I first tested it I heard a strange noise in the playback, like an amplifier was oscillating, and then the mechanism stopped. Since then, the LEDs in the transport controls only flash briefly when turning on the cassette deck, and the transport controls are dead. The bottom LEDs in the level meter do still light. I suspect a fault in the power supply, have you ever had a similar problem?
Check regulators. Make sure all voltages are correct. Most have +5 +12 and -12.
Check the switching circuit between record and playback.
@@JordanPier Thank you :)
Great video :-)
I got as far as to diagnose the idler motor which was DOA, but I never thought of opening it. Replacement motors are almost extinct and/or way too expensive.
The problem is the engine that was dirty in contact... why did you change the rubber tape?
Thanks for the video. If you happen to not have marked the cam position- is there any doc to check the right position? (For a cassette deck 2 similar/equal mech)
The lobe on the outside of the gear usually faces up
Whichever yields the least resistance against the mechanism and gets everything lined up. The mech will correct itself upon power up
Hello Jordan I have this exact unit
I have a few midland tape-players around. belts are SO lame. need my own belt mill.
I take it that this will work with the cam motor on the CR-1A as well. Am I right on that?
Does the cam gear have to be installed a certain way? Anyone know?
Thank you
I found two 125 in boxes last week;)
Brilliant video, thanks so much for making this information available. Invaluable. Couple of questions:
1. The deck in the video must be an older unit, mine has an electronic counter, vs. mechanical. Mine also sports a tensioner pawled wheel that I don't see in this unit. What is the function of this wheel? It doesn't seem to make much difference in left hub spinning tension when the pawl is engaged and when not engaged....
2. There seems to be a hub clutch on each hub that releases upon Play or FF/RV, as they turn much more freely by hand when any transport function is engaged. Where / how does this hub clutch function work? Is it a service/maintenance item?
3. Where does one source those damn tiny hub spindle clips that want to fly off into space, never to be seen again....;-)
Thanks again!
1. Yes this is a first gen sankyo deck with mechanical counter. I'm guessing yours is a later dr or cr series instead of a box.
2. Those are not clutches. They are brake pads that rest on the edge of the hub, activated when the function cam rotated by the motor back to the stop position.
3. I know of no source for those hubs, but some clever work with a fine piece of wire the thickness of a hair and a plastic slip washer can substitute
@@JordanPier Interesting. Thank you for this insight. I wish I could see those "brake pads" in action, but, from the front view, I cannot see them.
Tip for other nubees: After pulling off my hubs, along with the idler pulley, to replace the tire and the back tension belt, I reinstalled the hub parts in the wrong order- make sure the spring goes on the spindle first, then that white plastic "nub" (I had it reversed and the hubs were turning with much effort until I got the order right....one more opportunity to lose a hub clip!).
Follow-up question, if you don't mind, (hopefully others will benefit, too):
As the take-up reel diameter changes with tape accumulation, I always assumed there would be slippage either somewhere inside the hub, or at the idler tire interface, to accommodate the changing RPM, but it appears that the idler tire drive assembly simply forces the motor to run slower, i.e. no slippage, no clutch action required. Is my observation correct? Now that I think of it, that is the only way the gear idler mod would work, the gears, unlike the tire, cannot slip! (I may have answered my question....)
Really appreciate your providing this information on maintaining the BX-300, super helpful.
@@richardmarshall6751 there is a clutch in the idler swing arm
Later ones that were direct drive via headset were controlled electronically by varying current to the reel motor.
@@JordanPier Is the clutch integral to the brass drive hub?
@@richardmarshall6751 you usually find a felt clutch between the brass piece and the swing arm for the idler.
This worked like a charm! I’m not a technically skilled person and I managed to do this. Fantastic video, easy to follow even for an idiot like me. Felt much better about rooting around in the deck’s innards when I saw that someone else had slathered grease all over the cam and worm gear…
I have a minor issue with the counter, though. If it’s reset to 000 it won’t advance, but if rewinded it rolls like normal up to 000. I’m assuming I bent something when I reinstalled the transport. Do you have any advice?
Might just be a sticky counter. Not uncommon for the mechanical ones. Sometimes you can rock it back and forth with few and ff to get it unstuck.
You can carefully spray it with Craig fader lube to lube up the gears.
@@JordanPier Right on, thanks!
Do you do maintenance for a nakamichi mr1?
where is a good place to get replacement belts these days?
This video really helped me to replace this motor after my old one died so thank you so much man, but now I have what I believe is an electrical problem with the deck (CR-1A) and I was wondering if you might know whats causing it. All of the playback seems to have the bass pushed to the left, looks like the kick and the bass and other low frequencies are +4dB to +6dB louder on the left but all of the other frequencies are where they should be. The azimuth is correct, and adjusting it doesnt change the problem. Is there a pot on the board I need to calibrate?
No EQ pot on these. If you have frequency response issues check voltages on tape playback amp stages and couple caps for high esr. Schematics are available on hifi engine.
@@JordanPier So part of the schematic has a list of parts with the PB Eq. Amp. section, im guessing its gonna be a capacitor in there? PB Meaning playback?
@@Shad0wSeeker922 yes. Likely a cap, but voltage loss to a transistor in an eq circuit can cause it, or open teansistor
great video. i did exactly like you demonstrated, when i installed everything i see the motor spin half but it stopped, how do you calibrate it?
Half spun? Did it return to stop? If so the transport may be jamming, or something wasn't aligned right during reassembly
Quick question, Jordan. I have a BX-300 with the blinking lights & cycling issue. It has been diagnosed by my tech as the control motor. If he is unwilling to refurb the motor, would you be willing to do it if I sent you the motor & if so, what would the cost be?
Youd be sending me the whole deck
Inbox me to chat more about it
Vintageavrepair at gmail dot com
I have CR1 with dead spot behavior. I am not sure I can make it. :) I do not have tools in the first place, like that brusher.
Are you using a standard Phillips driver on JIS screws?
I machined the head a bit. I don't have any JIS sets.
The problem with the BX-300 taking out the transport assembly is that the main board gets in the way, it seems like the only way to take it out would be by removing the front plate.
Were you able to remove the transport? and what was the problem with the BX300?
A few years ago a guy gave me a non-working Nakamichi, it wasn't the Dragon but the model just under it. I put it on ebay as not working and was shocked by what people were willing to give for it.
The prices are going crazy now for all high end decks. About ten years ago you couldn't give them away. All are very collectable now days as there's a big increase in folk getting back into cassette taping and reliving the nostalgia from back in the day.
I watched this and it gave me enough nerve to tackle my RX-202. I serviced the control motor but waiting for idler tire and belts to arrive. You've got me wondering if original belts may be better. I will post my results when I finish. I also have a Nakamichi 482z that plays for a few seconds and then the audio drops out even though the player continues to run. When I stop it and restart I have audio again for a few seconds and then it goes. Any suggestions?
Probably a failure in the muting circuit
Normally supposed to mute only when not in play. Play is supposed to unmute. If you get sound for a second then gone I'd look there. Get a schematic if you know how to troubleshoot
What size of the rubber wheel would you use for the idler wheel and the manufacture as well? Thanks in Advance!!
www.ebay.com/itm/254778959189
These appear to work the best
put your belt in a bag of talcum powder and then shake the excess give you better wow and flutter and the belt will last longer.
what do you think of silicone belts and do you know the tension of the belts the originals the grade of tension of rubber
I haven't used any silicone belts yet
However my experience with silicone idler tire replacements have been not all that great.
I don't know the original specs or materials on the original belts.
Thanks for the talcum powder suggestion. I'll have to give that a shot.
Serviced my BX125 last week and. CR4 before that. Looks like I was a bit early. I would like to order some replacement belts, where do you guys go now for them? Can you still buy test tapes. Thanks for the video.
Right now the majority of belts used come from Russell industries. That or Thakker. I am looking at another company here in the states that say they can do them to make spec. It's not marrs. We'll see
WJOE.com in the States is another source and they come with very good instructions and CAD photos etc. Got a kit for my Dragon but wasn't impressed as wrong sizes were sent.
For test tapes try 'ant-audio.co.uk'. Alex makes some really good accurate test tapes that I use myself.
Hello, I was recommended these people. Super fast service and excellent communication. I haven't actually tried to fit the new belt yet as I am still digesting this brilliant video. Thank you Jordan! www.electronicsupplycorp.com/contents/en-us/d6_Flats_Belts.html
Doubt I will get a reply, but im trying to fix up a BX-300 that will perform all functions, until speed slows, and eventually stops playback (locks up) and will not resume. FF, RR all will then function after the lock up, but it will usually never start playing again if you simply hit play. Is a tired motor like restored here the culprit? How can I best troubleshoot tape decks? thanks for your time
If playback slows to a stop and will not restart, first thing to do is grab a schematic and check the power supplies. There are several from +-5v to +-12v. Have the bottom cover off and ready when the failure occurs and check them. I'm betting one has fallen short
@@JordanPier hey thank you so much for the reply. I got the top cover off and replicated the issue. The capstan belt will begin slipping on the viewers left drive (believe this is the secondary one). I will still go through and check power supplies, but I believe the lack of power is from the belt slipping in place on the capstan. Thanks again for the reply, i really appreciate it and the video.
@@Uathankicks the bx 300 is a direct drive, with belt drive secondary supply capstan. If the deck is slowing down - it's likely due to take up capstan (on the right as seen from the front) with the dd motor causing issues.
If the belt slips on the drive to the supply capstan you'll get some wow and flutter, but it won't slow to a stop. You can remove the belt completely and the set will still run..
man why did naks quality start drop on on the flywheel castings bad batch? never thought sankyo motors parts would be in such legendary name brand ??that one motor was nak ?
I know for one of their models Nakamichi had Sankyo make the entire mechanism. Sankyo ended up selling the same mechanism to Onkyo too, so there is an Onkyo cassette deck with a Nakamichi mechanism.
@@DrCassette I believe there were a few Yamaha decks that used the same mechanism as well (K-700/1000/KX1200) but I'm not 100% sure. I've got a lower model and it looks very much like this one inside but it still works fine so I haven't gone inside.
@@DrCassette Also the Kenwood series decks from the late eighties such as KX-880 & KX1100 etc use the same Sankyo mechanism as the Nak BX, CR etc and are a good source for parts and all interchangeable.
Is it OK to use 3 in 1 motor oil for lubrication as often recommended by 12voltvids?
Should be fine. Zoom-spout is my favorite, but I use the 3-in-one motor oil too.
Anything is better than nothing. 3 in 1 motor oil (not the universal, household oil), Zoom spout oil, or any low viscosity, non detergent motor oil will work great.
What is the max life of this control motor? Why do some fail and others don't? Which Nak models have the most reliable motors? Are you selling any fully serviced Naks?
Don't have any for sale.
Who knows how long they'll live. Death depends on useage. The more use, the more likely a failure.
The point of this is to recondition the motor so you can get some more use out of it. Since it's an odd size and high torque there is little out there to sub for it
They essentially use one motor for all transports. Want a better chance? Get a newer deck.
With the mechanism disassembled, is it worth taking the opportunity to clean the mode-switch?
I only do this if it is malfunctioning. It's too easy to bend one of the leafs and cause a problem
@@JordanPier I suppose new spare parts are not available for this machine, like the flywheel, mode-switch wafers, cams, gears, etc. Especially as the original Nakamichi company doesn't exist now.
It usually is good practice to do that and is one of the common failures of old Nak decks. However, when I've clean the contacts in the past, this can lead to poor contact resistance. My suspicion is the coating on the contacts can easily be rubbed off. If cleaning, the best method I use is a piece of paper dabbed in IPA or a flattened down cotton bud head and gently give them a clean.
can someone recommend a service repair in France? Thanks
The other motors could use some oil too, right? The one with a roller got only oil from one side. There's two bearings...
And the rubber quality is superb. Even 40 year old pinch rollers can look brand new and perform as good as they left the factory., astounding!
So this may seem obvious but if the heads don't pop up on my BX150 when I hit play, then this is the fix, correct? I ask in that there is no reference to the head movement being non-existent at the beginning of your video. When I hit play, my heads don't pop up and the right hand spindle rotates for a second or so before exiting play mode. Would appreciate you confirming. And by the way, this is probably one of the best repair videos I've ever viewed for any product. Many thanks.
Usually if the heads don't lift the motor is stuck or has dead spots. Don't rule out previous disassembly and someone effing it up. See if you can lift the heads with some kind of tool when you hit play. If the heads move fixing the motor will probably do it. If they do t move you've got bigger issues
@@JordanPier Thanks. I can easily lift the heads so will proceed further. The only previous disassembly was for the upgrade years ago for the switch to gears done by a repair shop and from what I'm seeing so far at this stage of disassembly, you would never know anyone had ever been inside. The motor in your video really didn't look too bad seemingly only needing mild cleaning and lubricating. Is that all it takes for them to stick? If servicing the motor doesn't do the trick, is there any source of these other than finding a similar unit with a hopefully working motor?
@@johnsonclair9851 they stick usually due to a dead or dirty spot on the commutator. If servicing it doesn't fix it and it keeps getting stuck then you've got an open on the armature and another motor from a donor transport will be needed
@@JordanPier Am still in the disassembly stage. Have lots of additional questions not addressed in your great video which I want to ask but not certain you want to cover them here in this dialogue chain. If so, great, if not, am happy to send to a separate addy you might provide. Still can't believe how helpful your video is for what for me is now a close to 40 year old unit in absolutely mint condition failing for what I'm hoping is just that stuck motor. Many thanks.
@@johnsonclair9851 you can inbox me at vintageavrepair (at) gmail (dot) com.
I'm always slammed with work, so don't expect an immediate response. I'll answer as I have time
Do you guys repair Rx 202? I mean did you get equipment by mail to repair?
Yep. Visit repairaudio dot com, call during business hours for shipping instructions.
@@JordanPier thanks for the reply
I use a small strip of crocus cloth to clean commutator
Nice job, is it possible to find a replacement for for this motor?
I haven't found anything in 15 years that works.
@@JordanPier cheers, tnx for replying... Have a Nad 6300 with sankyo drive, that might need new motor.
Does this repair apply to the BX300 also? anyone know?
Thank you
All nakamichi decks will eventually suffer this issue.
@@JordanPier Thank you for the reply.
Does the cam motor cause the transport to go up and down continuously when you power does that mean the motor is bad? anyone know?
Thank you
Check continuity of three leaf switches that touch the cam. If bad contacts it will cycle endlessly
@@JordanPier Thank you JP, I also noticed that one of those "leaf" switches is more open than the one next to it with the deck not powered up and it does not look like it is contacting that white cam. I will also look into that also.
Cheers
Is it possible to service the other 2 motors like this?
Reel motor, yes, not sure about the capstan motor
@@JordanPier thank you frfr.
What the heck is that flywheel made of? I've seen perfect 100 year old cast iron flywheels!
It might be worth saving if you can get it machined, assuming it is a solid piece and this is just on the surface.
EDIT: Is it die-cast? For the kind of money they charged for these, the flywheel should be stainless or at least aluminum.
The way it's crumbling it reminds me of pot metal.
These series had transports made by sankyo, and the flywheel problem is averaging about 20% of the ones I service in a year.
@@JordanPier Yeah, I couldn't think of the term. I kept thinking of those die-cast cars made from pot metal.
That flywheel looks like suffering of zinc pest...
Why don't you maintain the Capstan Motor?
Rarely do they fail. A drop of oil on the bushing is usually all thats needed. If in the rare event there is a failure, the Mabuchi eg530ad i believe is the replacement.
At this day and age im more concerned about the crumbling pot metal in the capstan flyeheels
If i ever needed work on my bx100 , could i send it to you , or anyone? I’m worried about the motors tbh , wonder how
Much longer they’ll work .
Use it till it fails.
Also open it up and carefully look at the capstan flywheel. Im seeing more fail due to bad metallurgy. They get cracks and deformations in thr surface. Destroys the good wow and flutter and is not repairable without a donor with a good flywheel.
Its going to be the end of these sadly.
@@JordanPier 😭😭 I’ll just enjoy the time i have left with her lol , i think I’d totally blow money on a better deck , maybe a three head when this goes .
I'm a proud owner of a BX-100 with a gear driven idler wheel, my deck has this exact same operational problem. This type of repair is a bit beyond my capabilities. Please tell me the company name and address where I can send my deck. Thanks.
inbox me if you haven't already. vintageavrepair at gmail dot com
hahaha I could not believe what I saw!!
Well that one is easier than my pioneer ct-f1000 its a bear to take apart
Sad what happened to Marrs. Fred was ill and sadly passed away and his daughter for some reason has totally ruined his name. She tried to scam me out of £65 and I eventually had to get my money back from PayPal. 😢
How the hell does a flywheel crack like that??? And on a Nakamichi ! I'v never seen a flywheel crack like that in a whole carrier of cassette repairs right from mid 70's through late 90's!
About 40% now have this disease
You need surgeon hands to do this type of work.
Old quality from Japan.
Нельзя чистить коллектор мотора брмашинкой! Нарушается круг! Главная проблема износа на углах контактов-нужно уменьшить диаметр для того чтобы износ на углах исчез
Nakamichi are highly overrated, to me studer and revox are better
A studio grade machine versus a consumer grade machine. Studer and revox are both better but also more complicated when repairs are needed