You guys have a partnership with Honed Developments... they are such a great resource for products and recommendations, especially in this area. Hate to say that the inverted tie rods are completely backasswards in terms of setting the car up properly. Take advantage of the opportunity Honed provides and have them point you in the right direction
I appreciate the concern and you not just talking shit like the guy below your comment but I don’t appreciate people assuming so many things. I bought the Ktuned tie rods after I did the extended ball joints install. I tried staying with the stock tie rods but the bumpsteer made the car undriveable. I did not know about honed at that point so I went with Ktuned. They have a lot of good products but the tie rods are just rebranded hardrace and yes they have some slight bump steer since they are not designed for this car specifically. After I partnered with honed for the brake booster delete kit (It’s not an open door to all of their parts) I discussed the ktuned tie rods with Honed at length. I have since adjusted the Ktuned tie rods and I have eliminated the bumpsteer after some experimentation, not under direction from honed. Now the car has never felt better, bumpsteer is gone.
Refine Movement adjusted the ktuned tie rods huh? What kind of adjustment do they have again besides normal toe? Maybe you should actually measure your toe curve instead of just going by what you think you feel. If you “discussed the inverted tie rods at length with honed” then you’d understand that they’re a trash gimmick regardless who they’re manufactured by. You can’t just invert the tie rod reorienting it’s pickup point 2cm below it’s original point and think that it magically cures bumpsteer. Do you even understand what bumpsteer actually is?
I understand what bumpsteer is. And when I said I adjusted the ktuned tie rods I did not mean the toe adjustment. I am aware they have no other adjustment. I flipped them around at the end and they are at the correct height now and no more bumpsteer. I know the car is good because before the alignment the car would not travel straight and I had bumpsteer. Now it’s normal. I did a whole track day the car is great. You don’t have to believe me. You can be mad I’m using the ktuned tie rods in a way that was not intended. But at the end of the day the car is working like normal, the tie rods are fine.
Refine Movement if you look back at your video from 6mo ago where you installed those tie rods you’ll see that I warned you about them back then and you desperately tried to defend their functionality despite the fact that you were warned to read up. Just because a company tells you that you need their gimmick part in conjunction with another part doesn’t make it true. You fell for it. So now let me get this straight. You install inverted tie rods because oem rods created extreme bump steer, then after consulting honed about the matter, flip those inverted rods to the topside to replicate the oem orientation and again claim that your bumpsteer is cured? You’re contradicting yourself. First off, it seems like you still don’t understand what bumpsteer actually is given the fact that you keep saying it’s eliminated which is impossible. You can’t eliminate toe change under compression/droop with our cars only minimize and change the direction in which it changes. Only way that’s possible is with measuring and tuning, not just slapping some crap part on and fooling yourself into believing it’s cured. Second, the taper in those inverted rods is shaped to fit the knuckle in one direction only. Running them upside down may be legitimately dangerous. Do yourself a favor and throw that junk in the trash and either put some oem rods on the car or invest in the honed product and follow their advice.
You can not use the OEM tie rods installed normally with extended ball joints, you just can not do it, I tried. That created extreme bumpsteer just driving the car out of my neighborhood. Something had to be done. I installed the Ktuned tie rods going off of what they said on their site because there was literally no other option I was aware of at that time. the car had some bumpsteer after the ktuned install but it was much more manageable and driveable at that time. You warning me after a video is edited and online is not really helpful. By that time money has been spent and time has been wasted. Regardless of this I knew the car could be better. I talked to Honed and they explained to me the issue with ktuned’s tie rods. So I researched it and decided to try something. It’s hard to explain with out showing what I did. To see if I could get the tie rod at the correct angle I turned the end upside down and installed it underneath like before. It’s not on the top as the taper wouldn’t work. It worked this way as the tie rod height was changed in flipping the end around so the 1/2in metal spacer was on the opposite side . Not everything has to be so fucking precise, I’m not racing F1. I know all bumpsteer is impossible to eliminate but it has the same amount of bumpsteer as a oem car. Believe me or not but it’s my car and I will do what I want with it. My videos are to show what I do not show what to do. Tbh I think the ktuned rods can work if the ride height of the vehicle is at very precise ride height, taller then what I am running. I will most likely remove that video where I installed the ktuned tie rods since the product is misleading for this generation of Honda’s.
I hope Tenhulzen hooks you up. You just gave soooooo many DIYers a huge boost of confidence. I love Les Schwab for fresh rubber and alignment every 7ish years, but this is a steal of a deal for always tweaking race cars. Nice work!
These toe plates measure total toe, not toe perside. If you adjust a lot of toe it will off center your steering wheel. What you do to keep the steering wheel centered is turn both tie rods on each side the same amount.
wow the condition of those rear toe arm bolts was incredible.. ive never seen anything like that before! i live in new york everybolt under my civic is rusted lol
As always good vid!!! Always nice to watch a true diyer doing things and showing the world how to do it. One thing and I don’t want to sound like a negative Nancy is that I was on edge when you were under the car with it supported just by the jack. Just don’t want to see you get hurt. Keep up the good work!!!!
You guys are awesome keep the good videos coming. I'm also starting out in youtube and I live in Florida/ Orlando area ... And I would love to do some track days with you guys I love a challenge and I also have a 98 Ek . It's not ready for the track yet but that's what I'm working towards.
I have alignment T sticks and they operate the same way.I drive 80k miles a year as a courier in ek civics for 10 years.So almost 1 million miles in these cars.Mine is stock no camber. I set the toe with equal tape measurements on both sides.I get the most life out of my tires this way.I have played with slight toe in and out and it eats the tires up more.Mine is set up for non track.It feels more race if the front is toe out a hair but I like my tires to last longer.
On the rear you supposed to loosen the two big bolts that hold the trailing arm and then loosen toe adjust bolt. It's nice to have friends with wheel alignment machine. On the front I would run no more than 2° camber, 1° on the back, but that's me.
How do you know the toe settings for each individual wheel? This looks like it only gets you total toe without having a "square" set up with strings around the car. You have to have a frame of reference that isn't the car itself.
How do you adjust the front ? Assuming you jack it up , adjust , and lower it back down and take measurements again? How do you know if the steering wheel is staying straight when you jack it up?
What might've been helpful would've been less yammering about what you're going to do or what you found and a lot more showing of what you actually did. Especially the rear.
Would you not being in the driver seat affect your camber reading? My old civic coilovers were set up so that without me in the car the driver side was slightly higher. Is that something you do as well?
The plates have to be perfectly vertical, don't they? I didn't see you use a level to ensure they weren't leaning. Is that not important since they are aligned to the wheel even if they aren't perfectly vertical?
63 grand sport In theory that’s what should be done, but that extra weight isn’t outside the error you get with this alignment tool. I bet the difference in camber with him in the car and without won’t affect the reading on that angle gauge.
I don't get how this doohicky helps to adjust your toe-in correctly. Seems to me all you're doing is ensuring that your tires are close to parallel -- which, don't get me wrong, is still somewhat valuable. But your wheels could both be cocked to the right or both be cocked to the left and your tape measures would tell you you're good. I guess I just don't get how this accurately measures toe without a centerline reference.
This kit is good for minor changes. If you alignment is way off this kit would be hard to use. Best to get a good base alignment then use the kit to change things after
Refine Movement suppose I only removed my outer tie rod ends and counted the threads and put them back on close as I could, then slightly adjusted the ride height, could this tool align me?
Dude jack it up measure again compare the two measurements and adjust according to your "on-the-ground" measurements say you have +3 on the ground and 2 jacked and you want to have 2 on the ground just adjust for 1 jacked that should give you the 2 on the ground
You guys have a partnership with Honed Developments... they are such a great resource for products and recommendations, especially in this area. Hate to say that the inverted tie rods are completely backasswards in terms of setting the car up properly. Take advantage of the opportunity Honed provides and have them point you in the right direction
I appreciate the concern and you not just talking shit like the guy below your comment but I don’t appreciate people assuming so many things. I bought the Ktuned tie rods after I did the extended ball joints install. I tried staying with the stock tie rods but the bumpsteer made the car undriveable. I did not know about honed at that point so I went with Ktuned. They have a lot of good products but the tie rods are just rebranded hardrace and yes they have some slight bump steer since they are not designed for this car specifically. After I partnered with honed for the brake booster delete kit (It’s not an open door to all of their parts) I discussed the ktuned tie rods with Honed at length. I have since adjusted the Ktuned tie rods and I have eliminated the bumpsteer after some experimentation, not under direction from honed. Now the car has never felt better, bumpsteer is gone.
Refine Movement adjusted the ktuned tie rods huh? What kind of adjustment do they have again besides normal toe? Maybe you should actually measure your toe curve instead of just going by what you think you feel. If you “discussed the inverted tie rods at length with honed” then you’d understand that they’re a trash gimmick regardless who they’re manufactured by. You can’t just invert the tie rod reorienting it’s pickup point 2cm below it’s original point and think that it magically cures bumpsteer. Do you even understand what bumpsteer actually is?
I understand what bumpsteer is. And when I said I adjusted the ktuned tie rods I did not mean the toe adjustment. I am aware they have no other adjustment. I flipped them around at the end and they are at the correct height now and no more bumpsteer. I know the car is good because before the alignment the car would not travel straight and I had bumpsteer. Now it’s normal. I did a whole track day the car is great. You don’t have to believe me. You can be mad I’m using the ktuned tie rods in a way that was not intended. But at the end of the day the car is working like normal, the tie rods are fine.
Refine Movement if you look back at your video from 6mo ago where you installed those tie rods you’ll see that I warned you about them back then and you desperately tried to defend their functionality despite the fact that you were warned to read up. Just because a company tells you that you need their gimmick part in conjunction with another part doesn’t make it true. You fell for it. So now let me get this straight. You install inverted tie rods because oem rods created extreme bump steer, then after consulting honed about the matter, flip those inverted rods to the topside to replicate the oem orientation and again claim that your bumpsteer is cured? You’re contradicting yourself. First off, it seems like you still don’t understand what bumpsteer actually is given the fact that you keep saying it’s eliminated which is impossible. You can’t eliminate toe change under compression/droop with our cars only minimize and change the direction in which it changes. Only way that’s possible is with measuring and tuning, not just slapping some crap part on and fooling yourself into believing it’s cured. Second, the taper in those inverted rods is shaped to fit the knuckle in one direction only. Running them upside down may be legitimately dangerous. Do yourself a favor and throw that junk in the trash and either put some oem rods on the car or invest in the honed product and follow their advice.
You can not use the OEM tie rods installed normally with extended ball joints, you just can not do it, I tried. That created extreme bumpsteer just driving the car out of my neighborhood. Something had to be done. I installed the Ktuned tie rods going off of what they said on their site because there was literally no other option I was aware of at that time. the car had some bumpsteer after the ktuned install but it was much more manageable and driveable at that time. You warning me after a video is edited and online is not really helpful. By that time money has been spent and time has been wasted. Regardless of this I knew the car could be better. I talked to Honed and they explained to me the issue with ktuned’s tie rods. So I researched it and decided to try something. It’s hard to explain with out showing what I did. To see if I could get the tie rod at the correct angle I turned the end upside down and installed it underneath like before. It’s not on the top as the taper wouldn’t work. It worked this way as the tie rod height was changed in flipping the end around so the 1/2in metal spacer was on the opposite side . Not everything has to be so fucking precise, I’m not racing F1. I know all bumpsteer is impossible to eliminate but it has the same amount of bumpsteer as a oem car. Believe me or not but it’s my car and I will do what I want with it. My videos are to show what I do not show what to do. Tbh I think the ktuned rods can work if the ride height of the vehicle is at very precise ride height, taller then what I am running. I will most likely remove that video where I installed the ktuned tie rods since the product is misleading for this generation of Honda’s.
I hope Tenhulzen hooks you up. You just gave soooooo many DIYers a huge boost of confidence. I love Les Schwab for fresh rubber and alignment every 7ish years, but this is a steal of a deal for always tweaking race cars. Nice work!
These toe plates measure total toe, not toe perside. If you adjust a lot of toe it will off center your steering wheel. What you do to keep the steering wheel centered is turn both tie rods on each side the same amount.
Can you talk about that some more? Are you sure they measure total toe? Everyone seems to repeat the process for each wheel.
wow the condition of those rear toe arm bolts was incredible.. ive never seen anything like that before! i live in new york everybolt under my civic is rusted lol
Civic looks so good. In a state of perfection in my terms
Back at the firm on my birthday! Hope everyone can run. Best of luck to all! Congrats on 20k!
At 7:00 you talke about tow in. 1/8" on each side does not total 1/16", that would be 1/4" total.
I think he misspoke, it should be 1/16 on each side for 1/8 total.
1/4" will eat tire outer edge in no time. Way too much toe in.
@@pliedtka looks like his tires are going to be doomed
As always good vid!!! Always nice to watch a true diyer doing things and showing the world how to do it. One thing and I don’t want to sound like a negative Nancy is that I was on edge when you were under the car with it supported just by the jack. Just don’t want to see you get hurt. Keep up the good work!!!!
Put some jackstands under that car dude
Thanks very much for making this video Travis. Needed a tutorial type video on alignments.
Great video. I am considering buying a set of these, and it was good to see someone use them in a real world application. Thanks!
I need some alignment in my life. haha Good info, thanks man! -Glen
You guys are awesome keep the good videos coming. I'm also starting out in youtube and I live in Florida/ Orlando area ... And I would love to do some track days with you guys I love a challenge and I also have a 98 Ek . It's not ready for the track yet but that's what I'm working towards.
I have alignment T sticks and they operate the same way.I drive 80k miles a year as a courier in ek civics for 10 years.So almost 1 million miles in these cars.Mine is stock no camber. I set the toe with equal tape measurements on both sides.I get the most life out of my tires this way.I have played with slight toe in and out and it eats the tires up more.Mine is set up for non track.It feels more race if the front is toe out a hair but I like my tires to last longer.
Hey man! I´m from Brazil and i have found your channel today! Love the videos, love hondas! Maybe already watch 3/4 off them hahaha, keep it up!
Thanks you!
That's neat never new you could get something like that awesome stay safe guys looking forward to next video
Good setup hope you guys are ok from that hurricane Michael. Lookin forward to that track vid!
Yeah we’re good we didn’t really have any effects on our area
On the rear you supposed to loosen the two big bolts that hold the trailing arm and then loosen toe adjust bolt. It's nice to have friends with wheel alignment machine.
On the front I would run no more than 2° camber, 1° on the back, but that's me.
Florida cars! seeing the rear arms not rusted to shit got me going, blink blink
Great video as always! thank you! Lookin forward to that track video!
I'm in the middle of designing a full suspension kit that allows for proper caster, camber, and roll center adjustment n all 4 corners
Great video man. Super informative but I couldn’t help but notice you were under the rear of that car multiple times without jackstands 😩😩
How do you know the toe settings for each individual wheel? This looks like it only gets you total toe without having a "square" set up with strings around the car. You have to have a frame of reference that isn't the car itself.
Seeing how clean your car is .... makes me miss my sedan over my canadian born Hatch 😂. Great vid brotha, still waiting for your dash delete 🤙🏎🍻
How do you adjust the front ? Assuming you jack it up , adjust , and lower it back down and take measurements again?
How do you know if the steering wheel is staying straight when you jack it up?
Nice Video, I like those Toe Plates
if you pulled in the toe 1/8 inch on both sides you would have 1/4 total toe not 1/16.
Yeah I said that backwards 1/16 each side equals 1/8 total
You look like Marty from mighty car mods.
Love your videos. Keep it up!
What might've been helpful would've been less yammering about what you're going to do or what you found and a lot more showing of what you actually did. Especially the rear.
You have a 1/8" total toe so your adjusting 1/16" inch toe for each side
Would you not being in the driver seat affect your camber reading?
My old civic coilovers were set up so that without me in the car the driver side was slightly higher. Is that something you do as well?
HEY MY FRIEND'S I'M A BIG FAN OF YOU GUYS...HELLO FROM RUSSIA..WARE THE LITTLE EG HATCH
So you only measure one side? It gives you total front toe or only toe for one wheel? Thanks
Was the steering wheel centered afterwards when going down the road
Did you put your wheels back on to measure your camber every time you adjusted it? Thanks.
where you get the plates measurer
I think u mean 1/4" not 1/16". Cause 2 x 1/8" is 1/4" not 1/16".
The plates have to be perfectly vertical, don't they? I didn't see you use a level to ensure they weren't leaning. Is that not important since they are aligned to the wheel even if they aren't perfectly vertical?
I haven’t used a level but probably should for it to be perfect. I eye ball it.
Perfect!
Great video as usual. I love those wheels!! What are the specs? And did you have to roll your fenders?
I did roll the fenders. The wheels are konig hypergrams 15x7.5 +36
Refine Movement both front and rear? What size tires do you have on there?
Tires are 225/45/15
Wheel specs please
Do you add weight to the drivers side equivalent to your own weight then do the alignment.
63 grand sport In theory that’s what should be done, but that extra weight isn’t outside the error you get with this alignment tool. I bet the difference in camber with him in the car and without won’t affect the reading on that angle gauge.
Jack stands man, jack stands, your comming pretty close to getting killed especially laying under the wheel… nice vid though… thanks
I don't get how this doohicky helps to adjust your toe-in correctly. Seems to me all you're doing is ensuring that your tires are close to parallel -- which, don't get me wrong, is still somewhat valuable. But your wheels could both be cocked to the right or both be cocked to the left and your tape measures would tell you you're good. I guess I just don't get how this accurately measures toe without a centerline reference.
This kit is good for minor changes. If you alignment is way off this kit would be hard to use. Best to get a good base alignment then use the kit to change things after
The steering wheel is your centerline reference dummy
Refine Movement suppose I only removed my outer tie rod ends and counted the threads and put them back on close as I could, then slightly adjusted the ride height, could this tool align me?
Should be toe out on the front shouldnt it? factory spec
Honda recommends toe in for straight line stability.
Dude jack it up measure again compare the two measurements and adjust according to your "on-the-ground" measurements say you have +3 on the ground and 2 jacked and you want to have 2 on the ground just adjust for 1 jacked that should give you the 2 on the ground
an 1/8th and an 1/8th is not a 16th buddy
or maybe it doesnt want to travel straight because you have those bullshit inverted tie rods causing ridiculous bubsteer
See pinned comment at the top and maybe get the facts before being an asshole on the internet.
Bubsteer was an alignment setting used by the 3 Stooges in the 30s and 40s.
Stock toe in @12:03
The toe is zero, probably because of the scrub radius.
How do you know when the plates are vertical when you are checking toe?
I was waiting for someone to say this