Bambu Lab P1S - DETAILED REVIEW (Includes Prints, Pros & Cons, and Comparison with the X1-C and P1P)
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- Hi guys 🙂
Following the X1-Carbon and P1P 3D printers, Bambu Lab now has a new model, the P1S.
This new 3D printer is very similar to the P1P but the major difference is the enclosure.
So, in this video, we will unbox this machine and check all the details and features.
We will also show you our prints, the pros and cons of this model and the comparison with the previous ones.
♦♦♦ You can find our other videos about the Bambu Lab 3D printers here:
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SCARY SKULL WITH RAT INSIDE:
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LOVELY CHILD WITH KITE AND PET:
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#3dprinting #bambulab #bambulabP1S 
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My son-in-law gifted me a P1S. I am new to 3D printing but was up and printing in no time. For a beginner, I can say the P1S is a great choice.
How is the printing quality?
@@Solider134 I think it is pretty good. As I learn more I am able to make fine improvements. Out of the box it prints pretty good. I look at pictures of prints from other people and I can honostly say mine are better than average.
Hi bud, I'm a beginner and I'm about to get the p1s do I need the AMS? I don't fancy multi colour printing mainly just abs or petg things black would do fine @@blchandl2
@@blchandl2good son
@blchandl2 hello im also new to 3d printing and got the same machine, may i ask what do you print and what material you use?
Play the video on 1.25x speed 👍
Wow thanks it’s like normal speed now
dammm good tip 😎👌
I looked up reviews of the P1S to try and see the negatives so I could stop wanting it so bad, but the printer is too perfect, the more I see the more I want it, most of the negatives you mentioned I don’t see as either pros or cons, most are pretty neutral. All in all, great review of a product that is literally too good.
I have (soon to be had) a k1 max and I can't be rid of it soon enough haha, I can't wait for the "just works" Bambu.
BS I have been using the printer for 3 months. Problems since day 3, and there support sucks. Over seas a holes that draw it out of ret
Whats going on buddy?@Steve-gi2yj
@@Steve-gi2yj what problems have you been encountering? I have an Anycubic Kobra max myself and it's a total b*tch to work with. I've been wanting to replace it already, even though i've only had it for about 2 weeks
The cons are certainly acceptable and do not affect print quality. The print quality is very good and I never realized how much I need the AMS until now.
Great printers, great video as always. I actually have a p1s coming getting delivered tomorrow. I’m very excited to add to me small farm of 3 p1ps, I did have to heavily debate getting the A1 instead. I think the in the future I’ll add 2 A1’s to complete my farm
Hi @AlloyMetal, what is you print farm for?
Another solid review.
what is very solid here ? Video says he will do Comparison with p1p and x1c but in this video i didn't see it...... some cons and pros are totally silly....
So far I have not found any use with the Lidar but I think in the future it is going to be one of the best features existing in consumer 3d printers. Within 2-3 years they might completely solve all calibration on their own with more careful and accurate scannings than the human eye can achieve. Right now it is a joke, I easily calibrate much much better by just doing it manually. And it does not detect spaghetti failures at all. Had like 10 failures total and only gotten failure 1 when spool stuck in AMS (paperspooled polymaker with 100g filament left) and 4 from warping. 4 were spaghetti and it wasnt even close to detecting it nor stopping it. It eventually managed to build a bridge over my carbonara and finished the print. Props for that I guess.
What System presets are you using? I have big problem with the support's interface - very ugly scars on my print (always). Not using AMS/Support filament.
Excellent review.
11:13 Could you share the link to the source of the recommendations regarding the opening of the door and roof with PLA?
Hi, this is good video. for person who never touches 3D printer, how easy to use this 3D printer? I mostly may use TPU and PLA filaments only. Thank you
I recently purchased the p1s over the black friday weekend sale and received it about a week ago. the print quality on the p1s is absolutely fantastic out of the box. I haven't really had to do much in slicer settings to get it to print beautifully (and that was largely just increasing perimeters for part strength for the types of parts I was printing, which is totally normal). I agree that the printer should come with a purge bucket, but there are a TON of designs on the internet to solve this problem so i'm not too concerned, but it should be one of your first prints if you buy this machine. I also agree that the spool holder should be on the side of the machine and there are a couple of freely downloadable models that help you optionally mount the stock spool holder to this location as well, so again, not a big deal. what IS a big deal (at least to me) is that the camera is total garbage. it often takes a good 20 seconds to access, it's grainy, 720p (which WOULD be ok i guess) but it also only works at .5fps. that's one frame every other second. this is UNFORGIVABLE in 2023 when you can buy a raspberry pi camera or a cheap usb webcam for under $30 retail. but due to limited space inside the printer chamber, i'm basically stuck coming up with my own solution for either a tiny internal camera (such as the aforementioned pi camera module that i then have to figure out how to route outside the printer to run to a pi, and then power and configure that pi separately in order to get real time print monitoring) OR figure out some way to shoot video through the tinted door... which brings me to a slightly minor point but I think it deserves noting: the glass panels. the p1s has a tinted glass front door and a tinted glass top glass. these are extremely heavy and the tint makes it so external light doesn't make it into the chamber and it's hard to shoot a camera through it, and I think it would be best if they just shipped it with a clear plexi front door and a clear plexi top panel. it would reduce shipping weight, significantly lower the chances of damage (way harder to break plexi), and it would be clear so you can see your parts through it more easily (and allow you to more easily shoot a camera through it). also of note, it's rather loud (particularly the ams, but also there's a loud banging noise when it's prepairing each print that I'm still not sure what's causing it (maybe it's the wiping action?) - also lots of people complain about the meh touchscreen... I really don't see the issue as you need to slice models with a computer anyway and if I'm slicing, I have the device view of the printer neatly at hand so I really don't need a screen on the machine other than for setup and debug output.
All said, I'm mostly happy with my purchase, the prints it comes out with are pretty great, the ams is awesome (even if it does waste a lot of filament in the cutting and purging processes, you really need to design/paint your models to optimize for the shortcomings of the ams, but you learn to manage it). but I do find it to be overpriced for what you get... I paid about $1000 all said for the p1s+ams and for that much money, I want a 1080p30 camera and led light bar that doesn't suck (it's such a low priced component on a BOM these days, there's really no excuse for the abysmal camera), and I wish that they added some sound dampening to the enclosure for another what? $20?
agree with all your points. I been debating on when to upgrade from my first printer for a long time. Would love an X1 carbon, but it is cost prohibited at $400+ over the P1S. Was waiting on a review like this, where I felt like the reviewer was being honest. This sold me, I can live with the negatives. I ordered a P1s with hardened nozzles and hardened extruder gear, for $800.
yes the camera is a bumer, since I have a 1080p camera connected to my raspberryPi on my ender 3 that gives me perfect timelapses + live feed video.
I guess the camera "performance" is due to the P1S using a microcontroller rather than a microprocessor, so changing the camera module alone might not help
@@dan-nutuit should be using both a microcontroller to drive the motors and i/o and a microprocessor to handle the operating system, display, networking, camera, sd card i/o, etc.
That's the thing - the P1 runs on ESP32, which is a microcontroller. A reasonably capable one, but not quite a microprocessor. The X1 has a microprocessor.
Hi, you have probably been asked this question already but which over all is better if you had to have 1 only. The creality k1 max or this bambulab p1s?
"No warning sounds to alert the user for errors" is actually a PRO for me. I hate when devices make sounds in a moment when I do NOT want any sounds.
If a device is to have a sound, then I want it to be configurable - I want the option to turn sound on or off. If manufacturer cannot make it turnable on/off, then i do NOT want sounds at all.
You can buy vibration dampening tape which should help with the noise
Thanks for your complete video, im thinking about buy a P1S, actually I have 2 Prusa mk3s+ one of them Bear, I am wondering about save time, and other question is, in some prints (not in this video) about speed overhangs move out the lines, again thanks for your extense video. Like
P1S prints way faster
Do you have to keep the door or top open for PLA? I was really hoping to keep it closed and add some additional sound proofing since they seem quite loud. Kind of a bummer if you can't have it enclosed when using the most common filament type.
Really see no reason that you have to keep the unit open with PLA especially since it does have a large fan to vent the inside of the case to keep it from getting too hot.
Your review is nice but I was looking for that turn table any links or info of it🎉
How much longer did multi color prints take?
So I see the p1s does not make noise when an error is detected, does it still pause the print project and await for a response from the owner, similar to the carbon x1?
Hi, yes, it does wait when an error is detected.
Quick question, what type of filament are you using? Especially for the dog, it looks crazy smooth.
Hi, we used Kexcelled PLA filament.
I've gotten similar results with every brand of filament and Cura and Simplify along with the Bambu Lab slicer. I'm very impressed with the quality compared to Ender 3.
Hi. Can you provide feedback for KEXCELLED Matte vs eSun Matte if you can? I am about to make an order for these filaments.
ignore that all spoils are now compatable with the AMS they recommend TPU do not put in the ams at all it will clog it Bambu Lab told me this
what filaments were used for the three birds, the skull, and the dog?
We used Kexcelled filament for all those models. The colors used are: champagne gold (dog) and rose gold (skull).
if purchasing the bambu just the printer what else would I need to purchase? just the filament color?
Yes, you only need to buy filament.
I will buy one
I've had the P1s for a while now and I largely agree with this, but I have a few nitpicks on the Cons.
Noise - With the door closed it honestly isn't that loud. It's perhaps 4 feet from my desk and honestly It doesn't even register most of the time. Once I put on my headphones, I don't even hear it. Obviously that is my use case, but still something to be mentioned.
No Lidar - There needs to be some differences between this and the X1C otherwise you gut the X1c Market. I see no issue with the Lidar being a premium option. Now had you said no option to upgrade to a large color touch screen that even the A1 Mini has access too now, I would have been in full agreement.
AMS spool compatibility - That is an AMS problem, not a P1S/P1P problem. Use an external spool holder or roller and all spools are fully compatible with the printer itself.
Again the above 3 things are nitpicks as other than that this was a pretty fair review. The biggest win for the P1S for me is it just works. I've been printing basically non stop for a couple of months now and the few failures I've had I can link directly to a fault with the model or the filament. The printer itself hasn't failed a single print for me yet. A vastly different experience from my Neptune's and Enders where I spent more time fiddling with the damn thing trying to get a good print than I did printing.
problem is this dude prints right out of his bed with door opened :DDDD
I'm considering moving to one of these from an Ender3 modified with better mainboard with silent drivers, touchscreen, extruder etc. I sit right by the printer so noise is a concern for me. I've read that Bambu recommend you keep the door open when printing PLA. Do you do this, or has printing PLA/PETG with the door closed likely to work OK in your experience? Thanks in advance!
@@ddaann99 I almost never print with the door open. However my office has very stable temps on the cooler side. I have not tried PETG printing myself as I've never had a project that would benefit from its properties. All my printing is PLA/ABS. Be aware that as I mentioned I wear headphones most of the time when on my PC. If you do not, then I could see where the noise might bother someone. To me though, it is honestly rather soothing.
@@ddaann99 if you are right beside it gaming you will need good mic with noise reduction, my snowball ice kills all sound and my team mates hear zero noise….. apart from that i cant see that sitting beside it with fans running is big issue…
@@OmegaGamingNetworkthat's great to know. I would really prefer to keep the door closed and add some additional sound proofing, but hearing that you should leave the door open for PLA because of heat creep had me worried. 90% of my printing is in PLA and if you need to leave the door open, it kind of defeats the purpose of the enclosure.
Have you noticed any differences in quality with PLA with the door open vs closed? Or have you run into any issues?
Very tempted by the P1S. I am new to 3d printing and am after a printer that is easy to get started with, but that can keep up with me as I learn. The Prusa Mk4 also looks good, but the price puts me off. I also like the look of the Bambu A1, as it is cheaper, but although it has its own AMS, as it hasn't got an enclosure and the build area is smaller, this marks the A1 down a bit. Still trying to decide here! 🤔
I've heard mixed reviews about their customer support. as a newcomer myself i too am looking for a printer i can grow with
@sibaroochi yes that is one of the main negatives I have about the Bambu Lab printers. Hopefully they will start getting better soon?
I received my P1S (no AMS) about 2 weeks ago, and TLDR I love it.
My first (and only other) printer was a MakerFarm Prusa i3 back in 2014. That was fun, but fiddly- it took some time, and quite a few modifications to both HW and SW (added an enclosure, webcam, auto bed levelling, part cooling fan and ducting, etc.) to get it *almost* 99% reliable. It came with a hobbed bolt extruder which worked fine at first, but began to jam quite a bit after a while. Anyway, a few years ago, the combination of frustration and other life issues led me to throw the dust cover over it, and it's languished since.
I wanted to get back into the game, so I started looking around, and decided on the P1S. I'm definitely a tinkerer, so the rather closed ecosphere of Bambu printers (closed firmware, parts mostly proprietary) was a big turn-off, but for the price and the fact that I wanted to get back into building *things*, as opposed to rebuilding my printer, led me to the P1S. All I can say is - wow, have things changed in the past 10 years! This thing was unpacked, set up, and printing within an hour, I'd say. It comes with about 250g of PLA, which is great for initial startup and small stuff. I also ordered spools of ABS, PETG, TPU, and a full spool of PLA. I've printed with all of them, and it's been pretty much flawless. I had a few issues with poor bed adhesion with the PETG, but found if I wiped down the bed with acetone just before the print, it worked fine. The precision blows my 10-year-old printer out of the water (not really unexpected), and holy crap, is it fast!
I did print one printer improvement mod- a filament purge bucket so that I could keep the workspace somewhat tidy. I stuck some self-adhesive magnetic strips to the bucket to keep it in place on the back, it's working great so far.
Orcaslicer is a good open-source slicer that works well with the P1S. The Bambu slicer is pretty good too, but Orcaslicer incorporates some extra features descended from the Prus slicer that are handy.
So- with my vast experience in the field- one ten-year-old printer and one new release LOL- I'd have to same I'm not disappointed in the least as yet with the P1S.
Good luck!
@@steviewonder9209 thanks for the advice! I am still thinking about which one to get, but I will admit that the P1S, although a bit more money than getting an A1, it does look like a better all-round printer!
@@sibaroochijust about every 3d printer company has terrible support.
How does the memory card work/ and is it included?
Yes, the memory card is included. You use the card to store the prints and videos from the camera.
How is the noise ln lower print speeds?
With lower printing speeds it will make much less noise.
Can this printer use metal or carbon filament
This model is not equipped with hardened nozzle, however, it can be upgraded with one. If you upgrade it with a hardened nozzle, it will be able to print with more demanding filament types.
you can use different filament even cardboard ones now i asked bambu lab they made and newer ams mine as extra wheel on the bottom you just lift up and click into place.
oh so you can use cardboard spools now ? I was gonna get the P1S soon ?
Feels odd to include upgrades on the pro/con list.
Can the stock P1s use petg
Hi, yes it can.
I am planning to upgrade from my ender 3 v2 to a p1s or a1 printer but I am still not sure which one to choose. Also I am a student meaning I dont have that much money to spend. Can anyone help me make a decision?
I'm in the same position! I'm doing my research
@@michaelk474 i have written everything down for myself and i made the dicision! I am going for the p1s because of the faster acceleration and because it has the enclosure. Also the p1s is a coreXY 3d printer wich meant it does not need the extra space a bed slinger uses on the front and back side of the printer.
So yet again another update. I bought the p1s today!! It should be delivered in 2-4 days so i will let you know what i think.
@@Walter_vdh And what do you think?
@@travellingeurope3596 it js an awesome 3d printer. I have been printing things for like 1.5 months now and i have never had any issues with it. It prints fast and it is very reliable. I haven't had any failed prints so far.
At .2mm layer height the walls are super smooth and at .08mm layer height it is very hard to see the individual layers.
So yes i am very happy with my purchase.
You can buy a 0.2mm Nozzle(Complete Hotend Assembly) for it as a addon. Someone tried this?
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Is it harmful for the printer to print with the door/top closed while printing pla? or does it just decrease the quality of the print?
It's not harmful for the printer. It's just to get better printing quality.
There is a 30 minute print part on printables to prop it open, working well in pla even with ams on top
Printing PLA in a fully enclosed (front and top) printer, means there is a high chance of Heat Creep. So it will start softening around the extruder gears and cause a clog to occur. That's why Bambu recommends removing the top when printing PLA, so the heat can escape out the top of the printer instead of building up inside of the chamber. If it's a short print, usually less than an hour, you can probably get away with it.. but I see no point it taking a risk with there is a risk-free / waste free way to print PLA.
@@channelnotfound403that blows and just highlights a poor cooling solution. Why have an enclosure if you can't use it for by far the most common filament type.
Thanks for the video. You need a pop filter on your microphone...
Shouldn’t your sound meter be exactly 1 m away from the source of the sound to get a correct reading
You mentioned poop, but did not indicate how much there could be. Especially, when equipped with an AMS.
It's hard to say for sure when doing a multi color print because the amout will vary according to which colors you will have. A transition between a dark color to a light color will result in a bigger purge when compared with 2 dark colors for example.
A small print with white and black created twice as much waste as the part. I could have printed 10 parts and ended up with the same amount of waste.
I think bambu should have left the screen off altogether and lowered the price and allowed people to use a smartphone as the touch screen
What do you mean at 8:04, "will not work as easy as the old model" Do you mean it's not as flexibly or something else? What is the deal with these chinese Mfg. and placing the power switch as far away as engineeringly possible. What is wrong with the FRONT of the unit?
Dude, take a step back from the microphone. Too much air shock base.
I was subscribed but seems like this channel doesn't take any time to reply to people.
No handles is a con?
Who’s using this as a portable printer?
advice: if you buy it, is because you need print every day, in my case I just need 1 or 2 prints at month, is cheaper pay per print.
Or it's because it's a fun hobby and you want to do stuff yourself.
You do really need to invest into a pop-filter for your microphone if you are considering making more videos buddy. Despite the good content, the "Audio" in this video is truly horrible...
When showing a negative you shouldn't use an item that's only on a more expensive printer and expect it to be on this one which costs much less
Shame it doesn’t have a touchscreen, that’s what lets it down
If you like a touchscreen, check our bigtreetech panda touch video ;)
@@ruiraptor just watched it, very positive news, Thankyou
Damn tho 80 db is insane, actually can cause long term ear damage after 8h
Are you going to keep your head in the door of the printer for 8 hours? 🤔🤡
@@P1ayCrackThe5ky I guess the distance does matter. I wonder how loud it is say 3m away.
@@ameliabuns4058 Yeah, there are general formulas to help calculate noise reduction with distance. 80db at the source would result in about 39db at 3 meters distance.
@ruiraptor how about average wattage per 1 fully worked hour? Specification said 1000W as max. What is the real numbers?
The narrative surrounding Bambu Labs primarily involves data and industrial espionage, allegedly under the auspices of the Chinese Party. Therefore, my advice is that they're great for non-essential projects. However, if your work involves inventions, patents, or sensitive intellectual property, it's best to avoid using their product altogether
I love diy printer not this not open-source printer
than buy your open source printer and dont blame a nearly perfect expirience. Never had this highly details and minimal failure rate with any open source printer. Its just perfect for pres start and get a perfect print. ill never go back to any cheap open source alternative. Only a good Vororn kit or highly upgraded printer can challange this printers and a highe upgrade will cost you more time and Money than this printers.
It's a tool, not a religion.
At the end of the day, the best printer is a machine that can print as much stuff as possible cheaply, reliably, and quickly and that is the Bambu p1s
If it is for hobby p1p is the way to go but I'm not removing 3d part of 40 printer every time there stop i need automation not something that dumped my time
@@enmanuelhenriquez975can you explain this?
Waste of money. After a few perfect prints it started printing horribly. I cannot make it print anything properly. I decided to go back to my trusted ender 3. Dont waste your money.
Did your power go out?
Have you re-tensioned the belts ?