THAT MAISON MARGIELA FASHION SHOW EXPLAINED (why it made us feel something again)
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- Опубликовано: 19 апр 2024
- Maison Margiela showed it's first Artisanal collection in 4 years on the last day of the Haute Couture schedule, and it was a fashion show that truly gave us something to chew on. While the clothing was miraculous, everything from Pat McGrath's glossy doll like makeup, to the movement direction of the model's by Pat Boguslawksi, the music of singer Adele, the frizzy discs of hair by Duffy, the recreation of the Tabi shoe with Christian Louboutin, and leather treated to look like porcelain by craftsman Robert Mercier showed how important multiple layers of storytelling can create a last memory of a fashion show and a brand. So in this video we explore not only this collection, and how John Galliano's designs incorporated his own lexicon, but the work of both Martin Margiela and Madeline Vionnet, but how "the ritual of dressing" can have so many meanings and experiences attached to it.
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The level of detail and research you did for this video (and all your videos) is why you truly are the best fashion commentator on these apps!!!
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This was the art history level of coverage I come here for ❤❤❤
@@hautelemodeAnd I hate to say it because there are many and you all genuinely work your butts off for this work. But you darling are genuinely the star amongst the stars. This was a pleasure to watch. Thank you!
you are one of the few commentators that actually reads the books behind you. I too love the depth knowledge u present.
In case no one else has mentioned it, that "porcelain" bib also looks like the way old porcelain doll heads were attached to the cloth bodies. They were molded with holes to tie the heads on. And with the glazed look of the makeup and the doll-like lips and hair, it really does look a lot like the dolls were an influence.
to be fair, i don’t know much about the construction of those dolls, so i believe you 100% and this is great info to have!!!
Yes! Also I think the white caps some of the models wore referenced that some dolls didn’t have hair all the way over the head because the makers would be covering it with a hat so it didn’t matter. You see these exquisite porcelain or bisque dolls with beautifully painted faces and delicate hands, but when you look underneath the clothes it’s a fairly crude canvas body and massive bald spot
As someone who makes dolls (well puppets) and takes a huge interest in the making of dolls - yes, 100% true and I also noticed it in the fashion show. Btw this is the best one I have ever seen - absolutelly my taste, artistic, fashionable, dramatic, respectful of history, + 100s of hours put into working on every little detail. This show is a masterpiece. Thank u Luke, for the fashion hostory lessons, you make my days better❤
As someone who does character design, I love looking at these character heavy sort of shows and thinking of them as if they were characters. What is their story? Are they living doll monsters? Were they abandoned, are they haunted, are they happy regardless? Some of them certainly seem happy. I do feel like the interesting way porcelain doll heads are attached is an underused aspect of old dolls for horror related designs, there's something very visceral about the bust being tied on with rope that way.
Exactly! I collect dolls and they are called French Fashion dolls. I don't collect these types of dolls but he makes me want to start.
Here to give pat magrath the flowers she deserves for constantly pushing the limits in makeup and also influencing fashion through makeup. Her makeup alone set the tone of the show. Love u pat ❣️
Honestly, as someone really into fashion history, every aspect of that show just made me SQUEAL with joy. The care put into every single aspect, all the historical references (including to male corsetry, which was a fad for a while), the exquisite proportions created by PADDING! Just... amazing.
The glow through the tunnel at the start ((ah)), just the overall atmosphere is impeccable to every look. Galliano is a master; no one can deny that.
I also LOVE the attention to padding the models instead of super painful tightlacing (I doubt few of the models had body types best suited for comfortable tightlacing). That's historically correct - the women of the grommet era corset would use padding and caging to give the impression of a smaller waist (a cage was needed to create the pigeon front look that was so popular in 1900, as well as padding in the gussets), not to mention photo manipulation, which has existed as long as photography itself. Just *mwah* chef's kiss
The Halley's comet of fashion history.
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If you're so into fashion history the you must be aware of all the racist, anti Semitic things John galliano has said?
He's human garbage.
finally omg it’s been 84 years
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. This show was genuinely something special. It truly gave me old school Alexander McQueen show vibes and that everything I want.
Yes!!!
I was thinking the same thing. If only Lee were still around and they collaborated on an alta moda show. We don't get this tier of fashion SHOW since Lee was alive. Sarah Burton is brilliant in her own right, in the marketable sense... but its not a jaw dropping awe inspiring, soul level orgasmic theatrics we get from Lee and Galliano! These two men are the Nikola Tesla and Albert Einstein of fashion, absolute genius!
Try old school Galiano for Dior show vibes!
@@Anonymous-xm8ir Imagine Galliano becomes McQueen's new Creativr Director. That needs to happen
Exactly! You need to see some of Galiano’s shows when he was the designer for Dior and Givenchy. AMAZING!!!!
I love how you said hate is brain rot, literally tho like we are so far away from empathy and compassion as humans that you cant go seconds without seeing or hearing something hateful and unneeded
be the change ❤
Agree
Yea people can be unimaginably petty and vile to each other. And the internet makes it so that any troll with a hateful rhetoric gets to anonymously be an asshole.
brain rot…fantastic. sorry to say that that is somewhere in Galliano’s sub conscious or past..and the booze let it out…vino veritas. Most people when drunk release hatred toward parents, bosses, stupid stresses of life.
okay now i see why this video took so long! the lore, the references upon references upon references, all the homage to the past etc. this collection/show is almost as layered as cowboy carter! 😮💨
What YOU said. 👍👍
This show didn’t change fashion. It brought fashion back. A reawakening of fashion!
Exactly!
HauteLeMode is already very entertaining, but HistorianLeMode is just on another level. This breakdown and historical analysis of the Margiela fashion show was simply breathtaking and is truly something special. Job very well done!! 🔥
Yes well said! Totally agree.
Oh, I could not agree more.
Galliano reminded us all why he’s one of the great designers of all time. i haven’t been this captivated by a fashion show since Plato’s Atlantis. a masterclass in fashion presentation
This is a MINDBLOWING amount of historical research. Obsessed. Completely impeccable
I could just listen to Luke talk about the history of fashion all day everyday. I mean wow what detail.
Is it just me or does the lead signer look like Freddie Mercury’s doppelgänger? Galliano is an amazing haute couture designer.
I thought the same.
That was the point...
@@priiifrg yea!!!
Done On Purpose! Freddy Mercury-looking actor/singer.
All I can say is….whoa. Between the fashion and your background knowledge…what a video!!
Your ability to show and educate on the history of fashion and influences is AMAZING! I learn so much!
first time ever I cried watching a fashion show, and I worked in "fashion" for 40 years! honestly I wish this video was longer, Hautelemode is an icon, thank you.
OH MARGIELA, THE ART YOU BRING TO THE RUNWAY
Luke, this is my favorite video that you have ever done. I also believe that this is one of the most important runway shows I’ve ever seen. I believe that Galliano was the first to really introduce theater to Runway. It makes so much sense, the story, the narrative, the shapes, the fabrics, the models, the walks the attitudes. It forms exactly what you need to know about the garment and makes it ever so much more important to wear and own. Thank you.
22:34 margiela actually did sequins. Like REAL SEQUINS. I forgot the season, but i saw the pieces in an exhibition in Munich years ago. The garments were all black and from a distance it looked like sparkling sequins in the light but if u walked up close u saw it had been mat sequins in white, different shades of grey and black, so he created an optical illusion of shiny by freezing it into a sequin spotlight. Was great
Also just saw the galliano movie “rise and fall” today.
It’s a MUST!
I think it might have been the collection from 96🤔🤔
Dude. DUDE! This video was so good! By the end, I had three or four tabs open for further detailed research. As a historical fashion girlie (concentrations in the 1830s -a WILD time for menswear- and La Belle Epoque), I really did feel something with this collection. It pulled inspiration from so many periods (the hair alone I describe as very 'Gibson-girl-after-a-REALLY-fun-night'), I appreciate that you filled in inspirations from time periods of fashion history I was not as aware of. Now, if you'll excuse me, I have some reading and research to do!
He show is so iconic that Mother Nature was in on the planning of the collection and showed up to perform a perfect Parisienne mist with a gentle drizzle.
38:10 it's interesting the stitches referenced are called 'basting' stitches, when done by a tailor or sewist, that hold fabric in place while it is otherwise manipulated. I feel like this resonates with the collection; the corsets, stays and tightly wound sheers juxtaposed with adornments that highlight the theme of being 'held in place'. Very nice nuance.
Now THAT is how one does a fashion review! Excellent work.🏅
How we all will ever survive without Galliano….. im even more in love with the show and collection after watching this… thank you Luke
Please know that your effort and professionalism in all of the research and quality doesn't go unnoticed! It's admirable ❤
This show...chills. I feel shaken by it. It's simply exquisite on so many different levels. And this review is astounding. You've outdone yourself with this one.
The amount of research and detail. You slay. The best review I have seen and I’m pretty sure will see.
Wow! I’m blown away, not only by the show, but by your review. Another master class in fashion history! You are a gem! Loved all of it!
Luke - The best commentary you have ever given on fashion
Thank you so much for sharing your research with us, Luke!! I honestly cannot stop rewatching this runway since I watched it live. It truly is a breakthrough moment in fashion and sets a new standard for what designers should do. I should highlight that Galliano and the Margiela team took a year to create this collection which emphasise the needs for fashion to slow down and really dedicate time and resources to create quality collection. Also you should watch Margiela artisanal 2022, I haven't seen anyone discuss how great of a collection that show was!
I so agree with you. I would be happy to watch only 1 show in a year or 2 years, if the creators put effort into it.
You did a REMARKABLE job with this video. Cheers to you for all of the work and knowledge that went into it. Luke, you are truly an artist and fabulous storyteller.
Luke we couldn't survive in these fash-un streets without you; I guess we could, but we don't want to! This iconic show will go down in history as one of the standards for sure.
came to get a couple quick answers to questions about this show, stayed for the thorough, thoughtful, well researched, and passionately delivered masterclass. brava!
This was a MASTERPIECE!!! I made my boyfriend watch it with me so that I could put it on the tv. I wish I could review this video on Letterboxd. Amazing work!!!
This platform and video deserves so much more recognition. The depth of research, the technical knowledge, the eloquence, the understanding of all the creative mediums that pull together to create each look and inspire the collection. And even spotlighting some of the models by name. Just OBSESSED with you Luke!!! ❤
Thanks so so much for putting this show into context. I also think that JG has earned his place in history alongside so few others. The issues in his personal life obviously make him an extremely controversial figure-that aside his now good health is a true gift to the industry
You did an UNREAL job of this. You really do define how fashion is NOT trivial or superficial, but is in fact one of the truest art forms.
I have seen designers send thematic looks down the runway, walked by beautiful models in beautiful makeup, hair and accessories. This show was different with expansive ideas, imaginative looks, transformative makeup and intriguing shapes. This show has, as Luke said, a story that can be followed almost as if watching a movie or reading a novel. Thank you to Luke for the amazing commentary and to Maison Margiela I honor (with a virtual bow) your greatness, confidence and creativity.
Love Margiela and love you. This analysis is so detailed and precise. Connecting Margiela to Galliano with such depth is appreciated. Both deconstructionists but Galliano definitely elevates Margiela to a new level. So he brings the brand forward while respecting it's ethos. The woolens are so Margiela but boiled wool/tweed is so english. Living for this.
This is a really epic video. I think it deserves an award. You are amazingly knowledgeable.
This collection brought almost everything I love in fashion. I am deceased.
I know nothing about fashion and have never been drawn to fashion (though have always had respect for the artform). But I saw the YT video for this show and immediately became obsessed and read articles on it and started searching out videos talking about it (which eventually led youtube to me watching this channel, so yay!).
And to me that demonstrates the power of this show. Someone like me who knows nothing about it could still feel awe at the artistry and be drawn in to fashion.
Luke, you are truly the 21st century's dean of Fashion/Style. Thank you!
Its an interestong show for me as a 65yr old who bought two margiela pieces before Margiela left & Galliano and other designers took over the label. To me this a pure Galliano show, and i dont say think negatively- i also loved Galliano's early work. I have two non haute pieces of Margiela, one is Italian forest green velvet wrap skirt, essentially a sarong but with pleats and studs. Its breathtaking in uts simplucity. A while back you were talking about another label and givibg them credit for oversizing jackets but i understand Margiela did that first. He also got larger mannequins made to properly fit when draping.
This is an exquisite show, but its Galliano all the way, less Martin. Thank you for this coverage. I do appreciate your videos. Growing up in the 80's & 90's was a grand period for fashion & magazines you bring some if that delight back. 💖
Clicked faster than Luke could say weird wacky and wonderful
Beautiful and inspiring review of a collection that truly was art
Yes Luke, we needed this video from you.
It is amazing to learn about all the art references behind both Martin and John´s work.
It really is something to be felt. Thank you. You are the best!
Luke your passion is inspiring!
Need a part 2 for the men’s fashion.
Sucha a beautiful show, broken down in the most beautiful way ❤❤❤
Wouldn't mind a part2 breakdown of the men's wear. Hehe 🤭
I find your timing with this as actually perfect! As a super busy fashion admirer seeing bits and pieces of this runway, over the past weeks, it's only now that the hype and cycle of this has died down, seeing your full review of this is a refreshing reminder to watch this full runway for those who haven't gotten to it already, and a beautiful detailed refresher for those who have on this iconic show! Thank you for your stellar history, education, and storytelling as always Luke!! 🙌🏻
I love your knowledgeable explanation of clothing, design and history of fashion. It helps me understand and appreciate clothing I might normally dismiss as too much. Thank you.
Really appreciate you in depth reading of the looks! I mean, whatever you think of Galliano as a person, he really does bring it when the occasion calls for it. One of the things I like about this show is that there is so much you can read into it - about the craft, about cultural cycles, about how Margiela and Galliano are essentially contemporaries which, sure, have very different aesthetics but also have points in common. Bravo.
I've watched your content before. Actually, I've watched many of your videos critiquing celebrity fashion. However, your analysis of this show shows your depth of knowledge of not only overall fashion but also the dedication and research you put into creating a video like this. I'm a subscriber now. Keep up the great work!!
an award worthy production! 👏
The detail, historical comparison, coordinating graphics & video, expert commentary and fashion design reference are
of such value, one could imagine, the contributing artisans and designers themselves got an education on this brilliant effort.
This endeavor is the work of a Fashion Historian, Luke Meagher. A triumph. Possibly your best output thus far.
Absolutely the best runway show I’ve seen, so evocative and inspiring. It was truly a gift.
Your research and presentation of it was amazing, thank you so much for this video. I would love a look at the menswear but I completely understand that’s an unreasonable request, we are just greedy and never want this show to end.
Luc you are a master at explaining and giving detal to what we see. You attention to detail shows your love for fashun!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Wow! Thank you for all your hard work putting this together! I am blown away by your attention to detail in this explanation. I LOVED this show and could (and will) watch it over and over.
honestly I think this my favourite video of yours where you look for the inspirations and connections to collections and designers. While you make a dozens of connections and suggestions there are even more that are lost or will be found by others and that's what makes fashion especially haute couture more than just body covering at a high price point. I would enjoy more of these videos.
This video is like a 1-stop shop for all references for this collection - I LOVF LOVE IT! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Bravo on an excellent overview of the complex and successful collaborations that made the show so special. Excellent job.
Completely agree! An absolutely stunning, intelligently thought out show. Every aspect is perfection and it's full of amazing collaborations/conversations with other artisans/art forms!
Impressive fashion overview. Really appreciate the historical research and explanation of the techniques. I love the eloquent expression of your passion .
Oh, oh this was worth the wait, pure fashun analysis gold
After the Met Gala, I think I may not watch a live show again, but wait and have you take me through them. You are so knowledgeable and enjoyable. Thank you.
Brings to mind Galliano's Dior super era and his brand shows. Loved him then and happy he is back to theatrical, feast to the eye, shows again. Missed them!
I adore your knowledge, I adore your humor, I adore your shady tone, I just adore you ! You are amazing & I wish that I could have the power to give u a million thumbs up! ❤️
I am not into fashion, but since i found your chanel, i enjoy very much your deep dive into references, concepts and ideas behind it. Love your work and your humor!. Keep them coming!!!.. cheers from 🇲🇽 Mexico!!
Can't believe I'm seeing his video now! Completely agree that this show does not require you to be knowledgeable about the history and techniques, yet still makes you feel emotions while watching. Thank you for the long video!
I actually appreciate the wait. Ik the algorithm doesn't but great vid!
Obviously the makeup is incredible, but FKA Twigs' LP1 cover needs some credit for it's influence and brilliance.
You sir, are brilliant❤. I look forward to seeing you on the History Channel. You have a wonderful way of delivering powerful information about how fashion has actually affected and shaped our minds as well
I always learn so much from this channel! Thank you Luke, another super thorough, intelligent, fabulous video!!!
I LOVE this video, would love to see more in-depth, long analyses of legendary fashion shows, discussing details and references. Love it!!
This was a master class in fashion history. My major in college was Advanced Textiles and there where professors teaching fashion history courses, with masters degrees, that don't possess your knowledge of fashion. Amazing and we'll done video.
This was everything! Your massive research and delivery is soooo appreciated! ❤
I could listen to you endlessly. This deep-dive nerd analysis is exactly the fashion content I need.
I would love some book recommendations from you about the history of fashion or specific fashion houses.
Got to say you really are the GOAT, talking about some of the GOAT. I waited with excited anticipation and I was not disappointed . The attention to detail no matter how minute was highlighted . The joy and passion and reverence you give this miracle of a show by John Galliano at Margiela is reverberating to our souls . Just so happy that the recognition and its significance as a whole is finally out. All I can say is beyond excellent .one that will certainly be on repeat. ♥️♥️♥️♥️
I'm not as much of a fashion person as most of the people here. I saw the thumbnail and thought the models looked like creepy dolls. You showed me there's more to it than that. Good job!
Your commitment to this is amazing, i learn so much from you and your research is amazing!! Thank you for making this videos and educating us on things that we really don't think are so thoughtfully gathered when a designer makes a colection! You are amazing!!
I don't watch fashion shows but it came up in my recommendation and I watched the whole thing. It was mesmerizing.
I cannot stop rewatching the margiela show, it’s a comfort watch for me at this point. Gotta throw in your commentary every so often now of course! I am so into this entire experience and I hope other houses follow suit in their own ways to make us FEEL shit about their shows again
I love to see you so passionate about a runway show!! Thank you for all the research and your presentation. You are the best!! ❤
So excited about your breakdown of this show! Thank you! I was totally taken by this show and sent it to a bunch of people I was so excited by the artistry of it. I watched it several times just absorbing the characters, textures, movement, silhouettes, and the fascinating dark beauty. Your translation of the history and techniques makes it even more meaningful. I feel validated in my novice analysis of this as one of the greatest fashion shows in recent history.
Great research, you really know how to put contemporary fashion into historical contexts while keeping it interesting for the listeners. A true slay!
Wow Luke, this was amazing! So many insights of the history of fashion which I never would have known. You really are an educator. Thank you!
Heartbreakingly beautiful .
hope .
Thank you for a fashion talk worthy of this masterpiece of a show which left me both moved & in awe .
You’ve done such a masterful analysis of this iconic show, it should be required watching for any art history class.
definitely a historical moment in fashion. and your review is wonderful. will watch the show and you again. so many details to take in.
Yessss ive been waiting for you to cover this collection!!!
*THANK YOU!!!* I have waiting patiently for your analysis of the MM show. ❤❤❤. I learn more from one of Luke's videos than I could ever hope to learn from any books.
Fantastic video, so well researched, and with much cohesion, truly satisfying to watch. This is the level of detailed reasoning with spot on commentary that sets you apart from the rest! Superb!
Your content is GOLD, so are you. Thanks for this.
Gracías, Chico! Loved every minute of your content! I had the pleasure of working with Mr. Galliano in the '80s, he was so gracious, and polite …and I am a POC - this collection is an unforgettable masterpiece!
Galliano is such a freaking Genius. This show is so Epic. I had to come back and edit my comment after finishing the video because Girl!!! You Know Your Shit, Thank You, for taking the time and educating us and remind not just your viewers but all the fashion houses what a show should be. Fabulous Job. Bravo
Out of all the fashion shows you have brought to me I totally agree that this show with it’s freedom of the style, collaged and gathered in, sewn and tucked and painted and glossed over and turn inside out and borrowed from many pieces of different types of clothing just collided together. I have totally enjoyed this. Thank you.
Thank you for this video, you truly shine when you create something you really care about ❤
You did a good job on bringing the show to us again through another lense,, I will never bore of the innovative.. viva something inspiring..
I can’t believe you’re only reviewing now but I’m still happy ❤️❤️❤️❤️🥳
I've never loved a fashion show analysis video like I have loved this one. Thank you for educating me on the people that inspired Galliano to create these iconic garments. Now I know people like Brassai and Vionnet. I'm a budding fashion designer who always struggles to create a cohesive inspirational story behind my work and it's weird but I think this video has just given me the spark. Thanks.