Excellent video! Thanks for the shout-out Brian 🤙🏼 We love our dual burner version (Helios) We are able to forge weld at 0.5 Psi in that baby. Extremely fuel efficient which is very important in a production environment. Looking forward to adding more HouseMade forges to the lineup! Keep up the great work guys
Thank you for an excellent step-by-step presentation about firing and tuning the Apollo Forge. In addition, your ongoing emphasis regarding fire safety is appreciated very much. It took me a couple of days to get to this fine tuning step, but now I bend and shape mild steel and occasionally manage the temperature up so I can weld pieces together efficiently. It is fun; now my real education related to forging has begun!
Thanks for putting this video together! Love my Apollo forge, one of my favorite tools, the build was a great challenge for myself personally and the forge is great. Did some forge welding last weekend right around 4 psi and it’s an efficient product. Do all my heat treating, forge welding and forging in this thing!
Do you know how much CFM your blower is pushing, does it have a label (full open, not with the ball valve)? So I have an idea on what size to buy. Thanks, love you stuff as always.
Possibly. It’s where the burner is at the bottom and the entrance is at the top. Basically a normal forge vertical with the burner at the bottom so you get complete burn by the time it gets to the opening. The other benefit I’ve seen is the bottoms are removable so you can replace the insulation for flux build up.
Hi Brian, I'm using the fan you recommend on apollo resources page. It looks to have a variable speed dial. What speed do you have it set at? Thank you
I think your forge welding range is a little high. If you're forge welding with a power hammer or press, 2100º - 2200º is optimal. 2200º-2300º for everyone else. If you want steel that's going to be compromised, go hotter. A great example of forge welding too hot would be the Forged in Fire episode where Josh Smith lost because his sword edge chipped out. He heat treated perfectly, but his steel was already jacked up due to the forge welding temps.
Definitely can be an issue. I tend to thermocycle 3 times after I forge weld. I have had some grain growth as a result of it being too hot. Lesson learned.
I hadn’t had a billet failure in a long time, but lost about a quarter of my last billet due too high of temp. The issue was I forgot about it, and it soaked at full heat. A huge section of the billet just crumpled apart. Kinda sucked, but it was completely my fault.
What you are doing and making available for the knife making and blacksmithing comunity is priceless. Sharing your knowledge and making products available has helped me grow as a knife maker. I want to personally thank you for sharing all of these things. Thank you. I will be purchasing your amazing 2x72 belt grinder as soon as I can afford it.
How hot does the ribbon burner go i need to know am working on a Damascus Viking sword my billets are quite big i is i was thinking of updating my gas forge your ribbon burner is on the list to get
Brian, look into / talk to Mark Krause about his conical jet burner rather than a ribbon. Safer in that it doesn't mix the propane in the pipe leading to the burner, rather injects right before the forge into a hollow cone bored into some soft firebrick. I use these on my furnace as well as my forge. Not as evenly distributed as a ribbon, but the "nozzle" orifice can be geometrically adjusted to disperse the flame more evenly and induce swirl.
I've been working with industrial, high pressure, compressed gas life support systems for a long time. I was always taught to turn gas bottle valves all the way on then back off a quarter turn. However, years later I was told by a company technician to ONLY have the valve all the way open or all the way closed on the consumer grade bbq style tanks. Specifically, any position in between can allow for gas seepage into the workspace which can lead to some catastrophic events. Just an observation, perhaps some of you have been told otherwise???? I'm always open to learn something.
Yes, I use Praxxair and they say to fully open or full closed. No middle position, the stem seal will leak, but there is a seal at the bottom “so to speak” and one at the top. Only valve that works in the “middle” is the acetylene type valve.
Excellent video! Thanks for the shout-out Brian 🤙🏼 We love our dual burner version (Helios) We are able to forge weld at 0.5 Psi in that baby. Extremely fuel efficient which is very important in a production environment. Looking forward to adding more HouseMade forges to the lineup! Keep up the great work guys
🚨 Whoooop whooooop! 🚨
Thank you for an excellent step-by-step presentation about firing and tuning the Apollo Forge. In addition, your ongoing emphasis regarding fire safety is appreciated very much. It took me a couple of days to get to this fine tuning step, but now I bend and shape mild steel and occasionally manage the temperature up so I can weld pieces together efficiently. It is fun; now my real education related to forging has begun!
Thank you Larry!!
This video helped so much. I used mine for the first time today and it’s seriously impressive.
This is a VERY good product! Every part of this is high quality.
Thanks Richard!! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I love my Apollo burner. So much more efficient that the first one I built
Thanks Joe!!
I fired mine for the first time tonight. Amazing tool!
Awesome Kevin! 🙏🏼
Thanks for putting this video together! Love my Apollo forge, one of my favorite tools, the build was a great challenge for myself personally and the forge is great. Did some forge welding last weekend right around 4 psi and it’s an efficient product. Do all my heat treating, forge welding and forging in this thing!
Thanks Cody, I am glad you're enjoying it. Hope all is well my man! 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Great video Brian.
Glad you enjoyed it Jerid! 🙏🏼
Great video! Nice explanation of forge combustion.
Thank you. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Do you know how much CFM your blower is pushing, does it have a label (full open, not with the ball valve)? So I have an idea on what size to buy. Thanks, love you stuff as always.
Yes it's a 440 CFM blower. All the links to this gear is on our forge resources page: housemade.us/pages/forge-resources
Talking of different forge designs I’d be interested to see a ribbon burner postbox forge.
I don’t know how popular that would be though.
What is a postbox forge? I've never heard of this. Is it like the one Kyle Royer uses?
Possibly. It’s where the burner is at the bottom and the entrance is at the top. Basically a normal forge vertical with the burner at the bottom so you get complete burn by the time it gets to the opening. The other benefit I’ve seen is the bottoms are removable so you can replace the insulation for flux build up.
awesome brother
Thank you John 🙏🏼
Hi Brian, I'm using the fan you recommend on apollo resources page. It looks to have a variable speed dial. What speed do you have it set at? Thank you
I set that to full speed.
@@HouseMadeUS thank you. Appreciate the post-sales support :)
It’s an excellent creation! Gabe’s double Apollo is insane!
That thing is awesome! I love his shop too.
How are you attaching the gas plumbing to the 2 inch pipe?
Drill and tap into the pipe.
I love you
Love you too brother ❤️🔥
I think your forge welding range is a little high. If you're forge welding with a power hammer or press, 2100º - 2200º is optimal. 2200º-2300º for everyone else. If you want steel that's going to be compromised, go hotter. A great example of forge welding too hot would be the Forged in Fire episode where Josh Smith lost because his sword edge chipped out. He heat treated perfectly, but his steel was already jacked up due to the forge welding temps.
Definitely can be an issue. I tend to thermocycle 3 times after I forge weld. I have had some grain growth as a result of it being too hot. Lesson learned.
I hadn’t had a billet failure in a long time, but lost about a quarter of my last billet due too high of temp. The issue was I forgot about it, and it soaked at full heat. A huge section of the billet just crumpled apart. Kinda sucked, but it was completely my fault.
A clear explanation, thnx
Thank you for watching. 🙏🏼
So your listening like you would visually watch an acetylene torch?
Yeah its similar
I fired my ribbon burner today and I like this video for adjusting the flame. Thanks
Awesome. Enjoy the burn. 🚀
You do such a good job of explaining things in detail so we all understand. Excellent video!
Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
What you are doing and making available for the knife making and blacksmithing comunity is priceless. Sharing your knowledge and making products available has helped me grow as a knife maker. I want to personally thank you for sharing all of these things. Thank you. I will be purchasing your amazing 2x72 belt grinder as soon as I can afford it.
Is the floor only bricks, or does it have insulation under them?
How hot does the ribbon burner go i need to know am working on a Damascus Viking sword my billets are quite big i is i was thinking of updating my gas forge your ribbon burner is on the list to get
I've gotten it up to 2700F - forge welds great.
@@HouseMadeUS i would like to send email i have to discussion a few things and perhaps needing some advice
@blacksmith9175 - sure thing: brian@housemade.us
@@HouseMadeUS i send the email tomorrow thx
@@HouseMadeUS there sent the email
Brian, look into / talk to Mark Krause about his conical jet burner rather than a ribbon. Safer in that it doesn't mix the propane in the pipe leading to the burner, rather injects right before the forge into a hollow cone bored into some soft firebrick. I use these on my furnace as well as my forge. Not as evenly distributed as a ribbon, but the "nozzle" orifice can be geometrically adjusted to disperse the flame more evenly and induce swirl.
Interesting. I'll ask him about it. Thank you.
Took a few to get it right, but it’s a monster. Love the thing.
Thank you! 🙏🏼
I've been working with industrial, high pressure, compressed gas life support systems for a long time. I was always taught to turn gas bottle valves all the way on then back off a quarter turn.
However, years later I was told by a company technician to ONLY have the valve all the way open or all the way closed on the consumer grade bbq style tanks. Specifically, any position in between can allow for gas seepage into the workspace which can lead to some catastrophic events.
Just an observation, perhaps some of you have been told otherwise????
I'm always open to learn something.
I have not heard this. You can smell propane so if it's leaking I would know, and it doesn't.
Yes, I use Praxxair and they say to fully open or full closed. No middle position, the stem seal will leak, but there is a seal at the bottom “so to speak” and one at the top. Only valve that works in the “middle” is the acetylene type valve.
This is what I needed man! Thanks for the in depth instructions on how to tune it properly. Looking forward to applying this soon!
Glad it was helpful Noah!