Track Inspection and Making a Point Blade
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In this video, I do a track inspection from the sugar house to the chicken coop. Then I change the switch point blade on the chicken coop switch.
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I never realized the videos were that far back. I always thought there were relatively real time posted.
I'm busiest in winter. Videos tend to stack up this time of year.
Job well done. My husband likes your tools. Makes life easy their battery operated. Have a great weekend 😊
wonderful job fixing the switch, it is nice that you are able to look at it, and see what needs to be done.
smooth transitions are key to longevity of the rail. great video thanks for sharing. have a great weekend!
I’ve noticed before that a lot of the track joints, as you put it get squared. I wonder if long nails would help hold it in place. Mobile home skirting installation kits come with long nails that are designed to rust in place so that they are a little difficult to get out. As a business owner that has installed a few skirts I have some leftover that I could give/send you if your interested in trying it. Rich Anderson
I don't know if that will be helpful or not. I'll ask a friend of mine who is an engineer who designs railroad track and get back to you. It might be an interesting experiment.
After a long conversation with the track engineer, it was revealed that I have some of the joint bars too tight. So, I'll fix that first and see what the track does.
Thanks for your suggestion, though. It prompted a conversation that gave me an approach to a solution.
Who needs a temp fix, when a replacement was that easy!
So true!
would love to see a video on how you shaped the point rail on the back before installing. By the way love watching your videos.
I have more switches to build, so I'll keep that in mind for a future video.
I see you got some new boots
Thanks for noticing! Brunt Workwear reached out to me to sponsor a video. They sent me these boots and paid for sponsoring the video.
If you're looking for a pair of boots, I have a discount link if you're interested.
www.bruntworkwear.com/millbrook10 gets you $10 off your first order.
I'm also advertising this RUclips channel on the radio station that I run.
Hey that’s pretty good👍
Thanks!
Thanks
Thank you Anonymous donor. I look forward to seeing you use all of the screws you now have on hand. I wonder how many railroad ties it is going to require to use all those screws.
It takes 4 screws per tie, so 4000 screws will do roughly 1000 ties. 30 ties per 10 feet of track. 4000 screws does roughly 330 feet of track. I say roughly because the joints on the ends of track panels use 4 screws per tie, and I always lose a couple screws.
That's a decent run!
You need to sharpen, or need a set of carbide bits. I spent the money on a really good set for use at work (Stainless steel was common) and have never had an issue.
The drill bit that broke was carbon steel. I'll replace it with high speed steel. I'm drilling into mild steel and aluminum mostly.
Your doing great. I'm always learning neat stuff!
I'm not sure who's learning more: you, the viewer, or me, the guy on the phone with the track engineer every week. I'm learning a LOT about the nuances of track maintenance and how to read what the track is saying.
I actually started off this video by not completing the first job! I didn't loosen the joint bars ever so slightly. I have them so tight that the joints are locked, and the rail isn't able to slide, causing it to kick out. Something I didn't know until today, going through a lot of questions on the phone with my track engineer friend.
Track is a lot more complicated than most of us realize.
🚂👍🎅🏻
Nice job, are you in the states? as you are 7.25 inch like my railway I work on, the moors valley railway, uk, we also use ally rails and steel point blades. I would suggest the use of stainless steel fastners, and we use nylock nuts, no need for any washers at all. All the best, Neil.
Yes, I am in the states. The northeast is all 7-1/4, not 7-1/2, which means you don't see a lot of videos from me in other parts of the country unless I'm building a locomotive for someone in 7-1/2" gauge territory.
Now, didn't I just read of a rail project at Moors Valley in Miniature Railway issue 57? I recall reading that you'd recently replaced a bunch of rail dating to the 1990's. Looks like you're running a nice railway at Moors Valley.
By contrast, most of my rail is 5/8 aluminum from the 1950's and I'm hauling nearly a metric tonne in one train every two weeks.
I am switching over to stainless steel hardware, by the way.
Nice!!!!! Do you have a video on how you made the frog? You used the grinder right? Make more videos like this, you will be doing this full time in no time!!
I bought the switch frog. It's an aluminum casting. I've welded a few together, but they are not as good as the cast ones.
Ohh ok cool!!! @@MillBrookRailroad
I think old'n still working is a good idea. Just like rods used to hold tent ropes or tempo. Instead of being planted in an angle so that they don´t pull away, they should be installed vertically with up and down free tracks movement. I´ve read tie screws must be a little loose for rails expansion / contraction. So it should be fine. Depending on price of that material, you can may be save on ballast with cost and work. With your long mileage addition plan, saving time on maintenance is a big issue....and less headaches and frustrations. May be one day you´ll get the " 6 months with no derailment " award.
The underlying question is: why is the track kicking out like there's too much rail in the curve?
@@MillBrookRailroad From experience it is never good practice to place rail joints opposite each other. When the rail joints are staggered the continuous rail supports the curve for the rail joint of the opposite rail. You often feel a "galloping sensation when running on track without staggered rail joints. Joints always dip under load. It is common to see these abrupt transitions both laterally and vertically when using track panels rather than building tracks in a traditional manner. No need to rip up your whole railroad, just stagger the joints as you do your maintenance. You will find that your maintenance will lessen and derailments happen less often. Adding a full-depth 2x4 placed on edge every foot or so will help lock the track down better as there is more surface area for the ballast to grab. Have fun!
I just notch out a little amount of rail at the contact point. Have had no issues .
This switch is an experiment in shaping point rails and leaving the stock rails alone. it is the smoothest switch on the railroad.
@@MillBrookRailroad that's good. I do enjoy the videos.Glad I don't have the kind of weather you get.
How about a little buggy you could push or pull on the track when doing inspections?
That way, your tools (and whatever else) you need to carry would not have to be in your hands and under your arm. You could also bring more stuff with you, just in case.
I mean, you have the rails, why not use it to your advantage?
Quite often, I'll grab a flat car. Sometimes, however, grabbing a flat car is more trouble than it's worth. The buggy idea does have merit, though. I'll have to think about it for awhile.
@@MillBrookRailroad maybe something lightweight, like a wheelbarrow body
Very fun! I learn from most every video. Do you have a canvas bag with a wide shoulder strap for tools and hardware? That would free one hand for the camera and might provide more flexibility for carrying things. Stay well, stay safe!
I do not have a bag for tools. That's a good idea!
@@MillBrookRailroad Or a work train?
@wilmeaux12 Work doesn't always need a train. Sometimes, a train will only get in the way.
We don’t have any slide plates under our points. What would you recommend to use in that spot? Thank you for the video on the switch.
Use aluminum or bronze flat bar.
I know you view your railroad as a "narrow gauge estate railway" as opposed to a " miniature railroad", so I was wondering...as you replace crossties, why not use longer ones, as it would help the cross level of the track to be a little stiffer and retain level under heavy loads, also helping the light rail retain its alighnment longways.
That's a very thoughtful question.
I do have longer ties in some areas, which I installed as an experiment. I've found little actual evidence that the track is more stable with longer ties. I've even tried shorter, 10-inch ties. I've found that 12 inch ties are the best balance between stability, looks, and cost.
What makes the track more stable, rather than longer ties, is tie plates. Something I'm working on for the light rail.
@@MillBrookRailroaddo you use any preservatives on the ties?
Always problems. Eaglegards...
Thanks for the acknowledgement of a great comment.
Dude, I am not sure if you realize what you have! You have a little-bitty miniature Railroad in your back yard! You need some miniature creosote for your miniature ties. How about a miniature Rail Laying Crew?
I do have creosote ties. Miniature track workers are expensive, though. Mr. Claus likes to keep all those elves to himself at the north pole.
12:55 so this spreader bar between the blades, do you wheel flanges not strike this & could it be mounted under the blades instead of on top ?
Forgive my ignorance on this subject, my track knowledge is all raised level so no points to deal with.
The flanges are only 1/8" deep, so they only run along the tops of the rails. The spreader bar goes on top of the point rails so the throw rod can go underneath.
@@MillBrookRailroad the other thing I noticed is there is nothing keeping the blades held down at the switching end so they could bend up & strike the wheels. If the spreader bar was below you could have the rod on top pushing the spreader bar down.
In your previous video where you were moving wood pellets the loco jumped in a few places & derailed once, what is causing that to happen ?
first