As a kid, I had a Cox? glow plug .049 model engine that I loved to tinker with. It would throttle down to a very stable idle by adjusting the fuel needle valve. Required a battery to heat the glow plug to start it. Great fun. Never knew of these PAW diesels untill now. Thanks for sharing.
This points me down memory lane... I still have a small diesel (never run) in it's original packaging -- somewhere in an old cardboard box. I was more familiar with glow engines, so that's what I used, but I really liked the idea of a diesel that didn't need the battery & glowplug, so I remember I (12 years old ?) wrote a letter 'to the proprietor' describing the little diesel I wanted and sendt it with my mother next the next time she went home to England. She found a hobby shop and the proprietor did not fail me :-) Let me go see if I can find it ....
Nice video 👍. The engine is truly running great. Well, I enjoyed each and every second of your video watching and listening to the soothing sound of this little marvel 🙂 I still have 2 diesel engines; one 2.5cc diesel made by Sharma India, and another Mills P75 replica made by Mr. Kumar of Aurora engines, Calcutta - India. Both of them still working great. Well, I subscribed to your channel.
Brian. Always love watching your engine run videos. I have a PAW 06 MK1 green head and spinner. Roughly how old would that be and should it run as well as the newer one like yours? I plan to put it in a junior 30. Peter
Peter, Thanks for your kind remarks. You're a little bit "off" in your dating. Concerning just the smaller PAWs, the early engines had assembly screws, like mine. Later they were "screw together" and anodised, like yours, and finally the anodising was discontinued and the smaller engines are still "screw together", but plain alloy, which I think is still the case today. Anyway, without being too precise, my engine is around 1990 vintage, whereas yours is around 2000 or a bit later. However, they're all super engines and yours should run at least as well as mine.
@@briancox3691 Thank you Brian. Yes, I got it the wrong way round. I prefer the non anodised screwed type but got mine for a good price from a huge deceased estate. I had to strip and clean it which took ages. It was literally caked with brown grunge. Never seen an engine so bad but now she runs sweet as a nut. After watching your video I am enthused to give her a run up today. I was thinking of a 30" Junr 60 but I think that little engine could haul a 45" version. Thanks Brian. Your are a star! Peter
@@petercane6376 Hi Peter, I certainly think 30" span is a bit small for your PAW. If you must have a J60, then around 42-44" span would seem more appropriate.
First of all, I don't clean the stand often enough. But when I do, acetone is by far the best substance. The secret would be to clean thoroughly immediately after each running session, and I've been intending to do that for the last 50 years... but...
Like the way you present the start-up/adjustment intricacies of a diesel engine but please how does the RC carb work cos on my PAW1.49 the barrel (brass) moves to close but no change in revs !? - Fitting the normal carb I may wrongly surmise that covering the venturi a little the revs would reduce (as does the action of the brass R/C barrel) - I think in one of your RCU posts/utube that a PTFE barrel would cure it - please exlain...joe
Sorry Joe, I can't really help. I'm a long time messer about with diesels, but I don't know much about RC carbs. To be honest, all my PAW RC carbs work perfectly, and I've never touched any of them! If I had your engine in front of me, on the bench, I could probably sort it out, but without actually seeing what's happening it's a bit difficult.
On the strength of this video I just picked up a rare PAW 100 TBR from the infamous online auction site. Appears to be NIB. Will run it soon, hope it goes as well as yours.
Great vid, Brian. I have a PAW 1.5 RC form which I have removed the muffler ... should have done it ages ago!So whats the secret of long-term storage? Hiw to keep from gumming up, or pston going rusty. Do telljpc
Hi John, Thanks for your kind comments. I'll try to answer as best I can... For the last 50 (at least!) years, after running, I've always liberally filled and coated my engines with "3 in 1" oil, and kept them in plastic bags. At one time, I had around 500 engines, but now it's nearer 300. I'm not saying that "3 in 1" is the best option, but I've never had any rust or corrosion problem, ever. Plus the fact that my engines are all inside the house (not in a garage or shed). That probably helps, although with "3 in 1" and in plastic bags, I could probably store them anywhere... I've (reliably) heard that automatic transmission fluid is the best layup and storage oil for engines, but I've never tried it myself. I normally leave the silencers on my bigger PAWs. Not for the silencing, but to allow the exhaust residue to exit through a silicone tube when installed in a plane. I've done a "stuck" PAW 149 video that might amuse you. It's here: ruclips.net/video/S4c9JqfufUE/видео.html Thanks again for your kind comments. BC
Thanks for the great videos. Keep them coming. I am restoring/servicing 2 1960's engines, and ask if you have any advice on removing the crankcase rear covers? Thanks again
Hi David, Thanks for your kind comment. First of all, I only disassemble an engine if it's absolutely necessary. Concerning removing backplates. Heat will help of course. After that, it depends on the tightening system used. The easiest is the PAW type backplate, with the diametrically opposed slots. I use a strong steel straightedge (usually one of the old Cox engine wrenches). Then hold that wrench (or similar) in a vice, so that the straight edge is horizontal, just above the vice jaws. Locate the backplate slots on the straightedge, keep the engine pushed down firmly onto the straightedge, and "turn" the engine, to unscrew the backplate. Variations on this theme, such as using a large coin (instead of the straightedge) if the slots are angled inwards, will also work in quite a few cases. So, in general terms, always try gripping your backplate tool in a vice, and then "turning" the engine. Thanks again for your comments, BC
Hi Brian, thanks for the advice it worked a treat. I know it's asking a lot, but can you give me advise on running an Ohlsson 29? Where to get a suitable coil, petrol/oil mix etc. Any help would be much appreciated. DS
Hi David, Sorry it's taken me a few days to answer. I've had a lot of work. You shouldn't have any trouble running an O&R 29, if it's in reasonable condition. Please email me at bcox0939@gmail.com I should be able to help you. Running spark engines is great fun!
Dear Brain, I can see that you are dealing with great love your diesels. I can understand that very well. I myself am also affected by the diesel virus and love this way of model flies. However, there are few model kites in the Netherlands who still know this phenomenon and I am often an outsider at model clubs. Be sure not a fan of electric flying.
Hi Mr. Cox! I hace the sabe engine But Green head and spinner, it starts as fast as yours, but when I close the carb to keep the revs down, it starts to vibrate and coffin..... What could be the problem? Best regards Rodrigo from Mexico!
One last question, Brian - then I'll leave you in peace .... i see you are quite liberal with the fuel can when priming!If I put more than one drop near mine when priming, they flood and lock up or go 'soggy'. How do you avoid this?May your magneto always spark.john
OK John, THIS IS ONLY MY OPINION!!! For decades now, I've always started diesels by putting in plenty of fuel (minor flooding), backing off the compression a good half a turn, and then flicking, which clears the excess fuel while you're gradually increasing the compression again (to running setting). This takes longer to say than to do. In fact, it's so "instantaneous" that you didn't realise what I was doing. I think that the big error made by many people (not only beginners), is that they want to consider that they have the "right" compression setting. I've always considered that "compression" isn't something that you "set" by knowledge, or experience, or even guesswork... It's something that you "find"... So I usually reduce compression a bit, put in a little too much fuel, and then flick while gradually increasing compression. If you look at all my videos, I think you'll find that that's what I'm doing. In fact, I'm "finding" compression every time, but it's so fast that perhaps it's not obvious, except for occasional attempts to "show off" with first flick starting... From memory, have a look at the K Hawk 0.2cc video. This tiny engine starts dead easy just by lobbing a splash of fuel in the general direction of the engine (which horrifies some "experts"), and then proceeding exactly as described above... Finally, in spite of your promise to not bother me any more (!!!), if you have any questions or problems, email me at bcox0939@gmail.com BC PS: You're probably not used to the procedure as described above so, until you get the feel of it, ALWAYS make sure you can turn the engine over OK before serious flicking...
Thanks for your kind remark. I've been flying a lot through the summer, and I had a lot of other work. I hope to do some good videos this winter! Thanks again, BC
Thanks Brian. 500 ...!? I get sarcy comments for having 5 ...ordinary mineral oil or 3 in 1 is recommended by PAW, so it must be OK.I use ATF and so far (two years) it seems fine. Also going to try the old Oliver rec of finishing a run on nitrate-free fuel. Especially as I have a very special Ridley Cub (RIP, Tom). Not easy to do in the air, of course!Some debate as to whether to bag up, or not. Suspect if full of oil and indoors it won't matter much.Keep filming till at leSt 300 recrded, please.john
I like it ! Thanks a lot !!! In any case, I can feel a session of spark ignition creeping up on me... I love playing with spark McCoys, Ohlssons & Super Cykes. I'm hoping to fly spark for the first time in the near future. Maybe a Forster 99, with original throttle, in a Majestic Major. Best regards, BC
Diesels throttle better when hot presumably it keeps the ignition advanced.The PAW throttle works well although it's a pity they have the needle valve in the barrel and not separate.
I think all engines throttle better when they're hot. The small PAWs throttle better than any other small engines, glow or diesel and, personally, I'm very happy with their throttle the way it is.
Hi again Lawrence, Again, there's misunderstanding here. This isn't an engine test. I'm not trying to extract maximum power or "see what it will do". This is an RC engine, and just about its only application is gentle flying, vintage type, RC. So I'm only showing that. How easy it is to operate and how well it idles and picks up after idling. From your comment, I wouldn't mind betting you're a CL flyer, perhaps Australian or Canadian... Only CL fliers run engines at peak power all the time. The FF sport and RC community don't. The 8x4 propeller used is about right for vintage RC flying (my opinion, but it's the size recommended by PAW as well...). On an 8x4 the engine is dead easy to start, runs easily and idles well. You mention a couple of inches less pitch... I doubt that you mean 8x2(!!!), so I suppose you must mean "diameter". Well, I use a 6x6 for CL flying, with the unthrottled version of the engine, which is very nice, but imagine this RC engine screaming on a 6x4 in a vintage RC plane... That's nonsense, not to say ridiculous. Like I said, there's a misunderstanding somewhere! Regards, BC
Hi Brian, Your guess is very close.......naturalized South African (1976) ..........which I like to call (The other Down Under) and before that the island of Mauritius (we were part of the British Empire up to March 1968)....and, there, we flew mostly diesels.....! The control line background guess is also correct! (a bit of stunt and a bit of team racing!) But I have also done old timers and I have a lasting affection for vintage diesel motors! I will put out a video in the next couple of weeks on the running-in of unused Russian Marz engines that I recently bought on ebay. Till then I'll keep enjoying your videos! Best regards, Lawrence.
@@MrZx9rdoug Ah! I bet you didn't see many 1cc engines at 3 Sisters! One of my great regrets is that I've mostly lived remote from organised aeromodelling. I would have loved to be involved in control line racing. When I see recent Goodyear racing, I'm so sorry I missed it.
As a kid, I had a Cox? glow plug .049 model engine that I loved to tinker with. It would throttle down to a very stable idle by adjusting the fuel needle valve. Required a battery to heat the glow plug to start it. Great fun. Never knew of these PAW diesels untill now. Thanks for sharing.
This points me down memory lane...
I still have a small diesel (never run) in it's original packaging -- somewhere in an old cardboard box.
I was more familiar with glow engines, so that's what I used, but I really liked the idea of a diesel that didn't need the battery & glowplug, so I remember I (12 years old ?) wrote a letter 'to the proprietor' describing the little diesel I wanted and sendt it with my mother next the next time she went home to England. She found a hobby shop and the proprietor did not fail me :-)
Let me go see if I can find it ....
Nice! If you find it let me know!
Szuper!
Az alapjárat nagyon jó. 👍🏻
I don't understand, but Thank You!
A PAW review by a man named Cox. Ironically excellent :)
I always used p.a.w diesels . Brilliant .
Nice video 👍. The engine is truly running great. Well, I enjoyed each and every second of your video watching and listening to the soothing sound of this little marvel 🙂 I still have 2 diesel engines; one 2.5cc diesel made by Sharma India, and another Mills P75 replica made by Mr. Kumar of Aurora engines, Calcutta - India. Both of them still working great. Well, I subscribed to your channel.
Thank you very much. There will be other videos soon.
These PAWS run so well !!!
Brian, words of wisdom as ever!Thanksjohn
Thank you for the videos & the advice , happy flipping Brian 👍
Thank you for your interest. I'm pleased if you found the video helpful. BC
Great start up and run there Brian 🤙 must ask if ya have 1 of those for sale out ya hanger must talk love that crackle can't bet it 🤙
Brian.
Always love watching your engine run videos.
I have a PAW 06 MK1 green head and spinner.
Roughly how old would that be and should it run as well as the newer one like yours?
I plan to put it in a junior 30.
Peter
Peter, Thanks for your kind remarks.
You're a little bit "off" in your dating.
Concerning just the smaller PAWs, the early engines had assembly screws, like mine. Later they were "screw together" and anodised, like yours, and finally the anodising was discontinued and the smaller engines are still "screw together", but plain alloy, which I think is still the case today.
Anyway, without being too precise, my engine is around 1990 vintage, whereas yours is around 2000 or a bit later.
However, they're all super engines and yours should run at least as well as mine.
@@briancox3691
Thank you Brian.
Yes, I got it the wrong way round.
I prefer the non anodised screwed type but got mine for a good price from a huge deceased estate.
I had to strip and clean it which took ages. It was literally caked with brown grunge. Never seen an engine so bad but now she runs sweet as a nut.
After watching your video I am enthused to give her a run up today.
I was thinking of a 30" Junr 60 but I think that little engine could haul a 45" version.
Thanks Brian. Your are a star!
Peter
@@petercane6376 Hi Peter, I certainly think 30" span is a bit small for your PAW.
If you must have a J60, then around 42-44" span would seem more appropriate.
Excellent video, thank you
Thanks for your interest. I'm pleased that you liked it!
BC
What do you use to clean up fuel on the stand, tools, etc? Solvent? Soap?
First of all, I don't clean the stand often enough. But when I do, acetone is by far the best substance. The secret would be to clean thoroughly immediately after each running session, and I've been intending to do that for the last 50 years... but...
Very informative video, Thanks.
Thanks Carl, there will be others.
Some super old spark ignition engines soon...
BC
Like the way you present the start-up/adjustment intricacies of a diesel engine but please how does the RC carb work cos on my PAW1.49 the barrel (brass) moves to close but no change in revs !? - Fitting the normal carb I may wrongly surmise that covering the venturi a little the revs would reduce (as does the action of the brass R/C barrel) - I think in one of your RCU posts/utube that a PTFE barrel would cure it - please exlain...joe
Sorry Joe, I can't really help. I'm a long time messer about with diesels, but I don't know much about RC carbs. To be honest, all my PAW RC carbs work perfectly, and I've never touched any of them! If I had your engine in front of me, on the bench, I could probably sort it out, but without actually seeing what's happening it's a bit difficult.
Never had a diesel, looks like they have good torque, gonna pick one up I think !
On the strength of this video I just picked up a rare PAW 100 TBR from the infamous online auction site. Appears to be NIB. Will run it soon, hope it goes as well as yours.
Great vid, Brian. I have a PAW 1.5 RC form which I have removed the muffler ... should have done it ages ago!So whats the secret of long-term storage? Hiw to keep from gumming up, or pston going rusty. Do telljpc
Hi John, Thanks for your kind comments. I'll try to answer as best I can...
For the last 50 (at least!) years, after running, I've always liberally filled and coated my engines with "3 in 1" oil, and kept them in plastic bags.
At one time, I had around 500 engines, but now it's nearer 300.
I'm not saying that "3 in 1" is the best option, but I've never had any rust or corrosion problem, ever. Plus the fact that my engines are all inside the house (not in a garage or shed). That probably helps, although with "3 in 1" and in plastic bags, I could probably store them anywhere...
I've (reliably) heard that automatic transmission fluid is the best layup and storage oil for engines, but I've never tried it myself.
I normally leave the silencers on my bigger PAWs. Not for the silencing, but to allow the exhaust residue to exit through a silicone tube when installed in a plane.
I've done a "stuck" PAW 149 video that might amuse you.
It's here:
ruclips.net/video/S4c9JqfufUE/видео.html
Thanks again for your kind comments.
BC
Thanks for the great videos. Keep them coming. I am restoring/servicing 2 1960's engines, and ask if you have any advice on removing the crankcase rear covers? Thanks again
Hi David, Thanks for your kind comment.
First of all, I only disassemble an engine if it's absolutely necessary.
Concerning removing backplates. Heat will help of course. After that, it depends on the tightening system used.
The easiest is the PAW type backplate, with the diametrically opposed slots.
I use a strong steel straightedge (usually one of the old Cox engine wrenches). Then hold that wrench (or similar) in a vice, so that the straight edge is horizontal, just above the vice jaws. Locate the backplate slots on the straightedge, keep the engine pushed down firmly onto the straightedge, and "turn" the engine, to unscrew the backplate.
Variations on this theme, such as using a large coin (instead of the straightedge) if the slots are angled inwards, will also work in quite a few cases.
So, in general terms, always try gripping your backplate tool in a vice, and then "turning" the engine.
Thanks again for your comments,
BC
Hi Brian, thanks for the advice it worked a treat. I know it's asking a lot, but can you give me advise on running an Ohlsson 29? Where to get a suitable coil, petrol/oil mix etc. Any help would be much appreciated. DS
Hi David, Sorry it's taken me a few days to answer. I've had a lot of work.
You shouldn't have any trouble running an O&R 29, if it's in reasonable condition.
Please email me at bcox0939@gmail.com
I should be able to help you. Running spark engines is great fun!
Dear Brain, I can see that you are dealing with great love your diesels. I can understand that very well. I myself am also affected by the diesel virus and love this way of model flies. However, there are few model kites in the Netherlands who still know this phenomenon and I am often an outsider at model clubs. Be sure not a fan of electric flying.
Hi Mr. Cox! I hace the sabe engine But Green head and spinner, it starts as fast as yours, but when I close the carb to keep the revs down, it starts to vibrate and coffin..... What could be the problem? Best regards Rodrigo from Mexico!
One last question, Brian - then I'll leave you in peace .... i see you are quite liberal with the fuel can when priming!If I put more than one drop near mine when priming, they flood and lock up or go 'soggy'. How do you avoid this?May your magneto always spark.john
OK John,
THIS IS ONLY MY OPINION!!!
For decades now, I've always started diesels by putting in plenty of fuel (minor flooding), backing off the compression a good half a turn, and then flicking, which clears the excess fuel while you're gradually increasing the compression again (to running setting). This takes longer to say than to do. In fact, it's so "instantaneous" that you didn't realise what I was doing.
I think that the big error made by many people (not only beginners), is that they want to consider that they have the "right" compression setting.
I've always considered that "compression" isn't something that you "set" by knowledge, or experience, or even guesswork...
It's something that you "find"...
So I usually reduce compression a bit, put in a little too much fuel, and then flick while gradually increasing compression.
If you look at all my videos, I think you'll find that that's what I'm doing. In fact, I'm "finding" compression every time, but it's so fast that perhaps it's not obvious, except for occasional attempts to "show off" with first flick starting...
From memory, have a look at the K Hawk 0.2cc video. This tiny engine starts dead easy just by lobbing a splash of fuel in the general direction of the engine (which horrifies some "experts"), and then proceeding exactly as described above...
Finally, in spite of your promise to not bother me any more (!!!), if you have any questions or problems, email me at
bcox0939@gmail.com
BC
PS: You're probably not used to the procedure as described above so, until you get the feel of it, ALWAYS make sure you can turn the engine over OK before serious flicking...
I missed you
Thanks for your kind remark. I've been flying a lot through the summer, and I had a lot of other work. I hope to do some good videos this winter!
Thanks again, BC
Thanks Brian. 500 ...!? I get sarcy comments for having 5 ...ordinary mineral oil or 3 in 1 is recommended by PAW, so it must be OK.I use ATF and so far (two years) it seems fine. Also going to try the old Oliver rec of finishing a run on nitrate-free fuel. Especially as I have a very special Ridley Cub (RIP, Tom). Not easy to do in the air, of course!Some debate as to whether to bag up, or not. Suspect if full of oil and indoors it won't matter much.Keep filming till at leSt 300 recrded, please.john
I like it ! Thanks a lot !!!
In any case, I can feel a session of spark ignition creeping up on me... I love playing with spark McCoys, Ohlssons & Super Cykes.
I'm hoping to fly spark for the first time in the near future. Maybe a Forster 99, with original throttle, in a Majestic Major.
Best regards, BC
Diesels throttle better when hot presumably it keeps the ignition advanced.The PAW throttle works well although it's a pity they have the needle valve in the barrel and not separate.
I think all engines throttle better when they're hot.
The small PAWs throttle better than any other small engines, glow or diesel and, personally, I'm very happy with their throttle the way it is.
Nice video! Slightly over-propped...........maybe an inch or two less pitch?
Hi again Lawrence, Again, there's misunderstanding here. This isn't an engine test. I'm not trying to extract maximum power or "see what it will do". This is an RC engine, and just about its only application is gentle flying, vintage type, RC. So I'm only showing that. How easy it is to operate and how well it idles and picks up after idling.
From your comment, I wouldn't mind betting you're a CL flyer, perhaps Australian or Canadian... Only CL fliers run engines at peak power all the time. The FF sport and RC community don't.
The 8x4 propeller used is about right for vintage RC flying (my opinion, but it's the size recommended by PAW as well...). On an 8x4 the engine is dead easy to start, runs easily and idles well.
You mention a couple of inches less pitch... I doubt that you mean 8x2(!!!), so I suppose you must mean "diameter". Well, I use a 6x6 for CL flying, with the unthrottled version of the engine, which is very nice, but imagine this RC engine screaming on a 6x4 in a vintage RC plane... That's nonsense, not to say ridiculous. Like I said, there's a misunderstanding somewhere! Regards, BC
Hi Brian, Your guess is very close.......naturalized South African (1976) ..........which I like to call (The other Down Under) and before that the island of Mauritius (we were part of the British Empire up to March 1968)....and, there, we flew mostly diesels.....! The control line background guess is also correct! (a bit of stunt and a bit of team racing!) But I have also done old timers and I have a lasting affection for vintage diesel motors! I will put out a video in the next couple of weeks on the running-in of unused Russian Marz engines that I recently bought on ebay. Till then I'll keep enjoying your videos! Best regards, Lawrence.
top flight myyy God.. talk about old timer...
i have met tony and gig
It must have been a long time ago. Gig died in 2005.
it was I was a member off 3 sisters MAC in the 80s.@@briancox3691
@@MrZx9rdoug Ah! I bet you didn't see many 1cc engines at 3 Sisters!
One of my great regrets is that I've mostly lived remote from organised aeromodelling.
I would have loved to be involved in control line racing.
When I see recent Goodyear racing, I'm so sorry I missed it.
Ну и чего нового?у нас такие моторы производство СССР были мы их использовали на Кордовы модели
I always used p.a.w diesels . Brilliant .