I have this engine, too. Reckon I'll unwrap it and get it going again, just for the nostalgia! Thanks for the inspiration! John Beck in beautiful Cape Town, South Africa.
Boy, those engines certainly have an exact point where they "come on song", and it happens abruptly. It instantly changes from 4-cycling to 2-cycling at a very distinct point in its RPM range, no in between, just BANG and it's there... Nice old engine! 👌
Very nice ! I have a 1946 O&R 60 . It's been in the family since 1949 and was restored to ignition a little over 8 yrs ago by my brother's friend Bob Edelstein of Lansing MI .It enjoyed its early life on the front end of a Sky Buggy free flight biplane from the 30's which no longer exists , sniff sniff ! Nice job with adding the carburetor !
Very innovative. That looks to be an OS 40 FP carb or smaller. Runs really nice. I have small port Ohlsson that runs really well on my Playboy. I also fly a lot of control line planes with Anderson Spitfires and Super Cyclones. Oh, and one Atwood Super Champion and an Orwick. I just love old ignition engines, and converted my OS FS 60 open rocker to ignition. I made a breaker plate and used a set of points from an old Harley Sportster. Runs great. I run stove fuel and Walmart Super Tech 2 stroke oil. It burns clean and runs cool. 3 to 1 in the old engines, and I use the synthetic 16 to 1 in the four stroke. Thanks for the video. Very cool indeed.
Dude, that is excellent! I havn't run my O&R 60 for about 30 yrs, but we'll be getting it out now! I especially like the 1960's era wooden airscrew, they didn't cut you as bad as the newer plastic ones!!!!!
Thanks for your interest. O&R 60s are great engines providing you don't try to run them fast on small propellers. Over the decades I seem to have accumulated a huge collection of propellers (many hundreds, maybe even a thousand) and I apply a simple rule: old technology props on old technology engines and new technology props on recent engines. Never a problem.
Back in the 30's and 40's when these spark ignition engines were made, they were powering free flight or control line airplanes and thus they didn't need a throttle. Throttle became important once three or more channel radios were invented in the 60's I think.
Thanks for your kind comment. Note that this last (1949) version 60 side port shouldn't have a fuel tank, but all the earlier ones did of course. Regards, BC
J-M, Thanks for your kind comment. I don't know why it isn't appearing with the other comments... One of my projects is obviously to build a plane for this Ohlsson...
Brian, words of wisdom, as ever! Your comments about what they want us to buy apply to everything I suppose. The system makes slaves of us all ... we can say no to "progress", I do it every day. Now if only I could buysome ether ....bests, john
I bought myself a Forster 29 to do this to a couple days ago! Planning on removing the stock intake tube intact and threading in an adapter for the carb so I can return it to stock later, also planning on attaching the points to the throttle(Either through radio mixing and two servos or mechanically via linkage) to give it automatic timing advance. Base timing of around 3-6ºBTDC should give me an idle in the 1200RPM range. Will find out I 'spose! Gonna run it on glow fuel though, and the hope is to be able to actually fly the thing.
If you only want to fly old timer (my case), and you're using a fairly big propeller, it isn't really essential to vary the ignition timing with the throttle. The engines are flexible enough to idle very well and go to max. rpm, on the same timer setting, providing the propeller limits max. rpm to around 7k, which is more than enough power for old timer flying. I prefer pump gas in these old engines. Glow fuel is simply more expensive for no advantage.
@@briancox3691 I'm probably not going to be putting it in a period airframe. Instead I'm prolly gonna be putting it in a rather floaty foamy, or maybe a modern 20-size trainer/civil plane. If the rod's healthy enough I might prop it for somewhere around 8-9k...on glow fuel there'll be tons of castor back there lubing everything. I'm already set up for glow fuel as it is. I fly nothing but. Putting Omega 15 through it when I already run Omega 15 through the rest of my air fleet is no big deal at all. Also, if I do mount it to a foamy, glow fuel is a must; EPO will not care about methanol but gasoline turns it into goo. Also not entirely sure the carb I have is fine enough to meter a fuel mix that lean. In all likelihood itt'l be off my old AE 18 nitro car engine, or perhaps the one I scavenged off a Webra 28 parts mill. Gasoline wants a 13:1 fuel mix on a 2c, methanol fuels in the 5:1-8:1 area. I might just run it off gasoline with the stock mixer though, just to verify I have the ignition circuit working right. Got plenty of big 4c props that'll keep it from revving to the moon. 11-7-3 for example, could borrow a 12-8-3 off my FS70 for that test.
@@briancox3691 My engine's in and a strong runner. Put an OS F plug in the head, Omega 15 in the tank, a 10-6 MAS on the prop, and it spun up to 10k RPM without hesitation. Could fly a lighter build 40size plane off of it! That's roundabout what an OS 40FP will do. Next step is to track down a condsensor, a coil, and attach the carb...
How do you determine which model you have? I bought one that was described as a 60, but there seems to be much debate as to which one I actually have. I've been told .19, .23, but it's larger than my McCoy 29 so a 33 maybe? It has a serial number in the 10k's, is missing the ignition assembly and was equipped with Champion VG1 glow plug, also a small port. It came with the original and apparently rare, O&R "accessory gas tank". One person says "a 60 is huge, much bigger than what you have there." Are they possibly misjudging the overall size? I'm at a loss.
Hi Steven, Thank you for your kind comments. I've been collecting Ohlssons (and others) for nearly 60 years and I have at least one of all the aero Ohlssons ever produced. Knowing how to recognise them is just interest and experience, and you gradually accumulate the knowledge over the years. 50 years ago, I wasn't sure which engines I had either! Anyway, if you care to send me a photo of your engine (and bits), I should be able to tell you exactly what you have... Mail a photo to bcox0939@gmail.com
I read thru the comments and found no mention that that carberetor is off a GLOW engine which is app 25% castor oil and 75% Methanal which usualy runs MUCH richer than gasoline as the carb. appears to be off about a .40 C.I , THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE WOULD BE OK BUT THE SLOW SPEED ( idle setting would be WAY rich ) so try leaning out the idle needl, I think that carb. has a air bleed idle system, ( take the idle needle completly out and if the tip is blunt, it is an air bleed system, so to lean it you screw it OUT more ( to get the engine to two/cycle at an idle maybe as that carb was deseigned for glow fuel you may have to remove the idle needle COMPLEATLY ( I bought a 1948 O+R 60 brand new in 1963, that was on sale at a hobby shop in Arcadia that was going out of bisness, I still have it missing the fuel bowl compleat with 14/ 6 wooden prop.!!
Hi Earl, Thanks for your interest and your comments, but everything you suggest assumes that I'm not satisfied with the way it throttles in the video, and that's not true. I think it throttles very well and I'm certainly not going to start messing with it! Regards, BC
@@briancox3691 guess im going to have to try that with my own O+R engine as I have the exact same one as you do and I also happen to have a worn out OS40 ( that one of yours sure sounds GREAT!!)
Brian - I saw your pics & short article in latest S&T - this is very interesting to me as I have 3 - O&R60s and 3 - 23s which I plan to run this year. I never thought it would be possible to throttle them like this. Nice one. As I don't have any old carbs lying about I will buy a new one from Just Engines - can you maybe suggest what glow engine size carb I should get? They seem to range from 5.2 to 7.5 mm bore - what bore did you use? And I assume you are running the standard 3:1 petroil mix here? Malcolm Davis
Hi Malcolm, Thank you for your kind comments. I'll try to answer your questions. As you saw, I'm using a "big port" 60. If your 60's are pre-1947, i.e. pre big port, then, in my opinion, you probably won't be able to insert the RC carb into the intake tube, the way I did. You'll have to use some kind of adapter (which could be just silicone tubing...) to interface between the intake tube and the carb. Don't worry about carburettor internal bore. The outer diameter interfacing with the intake tube is more important. As I said, I just found one "at random", and it worked first time. If I was searching, like you, I'd be tempted to try say a Merco 29 or 35 carb on the Ohlsson 60. Another obvious point is that if you insert the carb, the way I did, then a precise fit in the intake tube is obviously desirable, but if you're using an earlier O&R 60 (smaller ports) then, as I said, you'll need at least a silicone tube joiner, and the resulting flexibility will make precise dimensions less important. It's just occurred to me that, rather than guessing with "Just Engines", why don't you get an RC carb from PAW? I could even check my PAWs and see which size of carb you need for the Ohlssons that you possess. Finally, Yes I always use the old "3 to 1" fuel. If you try running using the original plastic tank, make sure you're getting pure pump gas, and not the "modern" mix containing ethanol.
Excellent vid, as usual, Brian. One question .... with diesel approaching £15 or more per litre, the fuel costs of sparkies looks very attractive. How small canmodern sparkies get, do you think?john
John, I have a different view of all this. With the exception of a few special interest groups, like SAM or the Barton mob, engine trends are trade driven, i.e. yer average modeller is using what the trade wants him to use! You and I are both running engines that were being "pushed" by the trade between 50 and 70 years ago. Nowadays, the trade has decided that small engines will be replaced by electric, and all larger engines will be gas/spark. As you can imagine, I don't like this and I certainly don't feel at all concerned! The "last generation" of glow engines (e.g. red Irvines, and corresponding OS) are so good that, with a few of them, most modellers would never need to buy another engine (my case). Obviously, the trade can't accept that, and modellers need to be persuaded to buy new engines, so we've invented a ridiculous "fuel cost" problem. I read that we should pay considerable sums, for more complex and less reliable (gas) engines, for peanuts in fuel cost saving. Don't consider fuel cost per litre (meaningless), consider how much you spend on fuel in a year, versus how much you would spend using gas, and compare that difference with the cost of re-equipping with a new selection of gas engines, for the range of models that you fly... And even then, do you want your modelling activity to be dictated by "it's a few quid cheaper"? when you'd have to go through a whole new learning process, instead of just enjoying your present level of expertise. Finally, to answer your question(!), I don't think anyone will make "small" gas engines. As always, sincere Thanks for your interest and contact! Brian
@@briancox3691 I have noticed some small 4.5cc gasoline engines have come on the market for the 1/8 scale car/truck crowd. They look to be slightly modified versions of basic Nitro glow engines, that have spark ignitions added to them. From the reviews I've read, they don't make as much power as their same size Nitro cousins (that's understandable) and the early reviews seem to indicate that rods failures from burnt big end bearings seems to be an issue with the current engines. These things burn just regular pump gas and common 2-cycle oil mix. I'm thinking that the switch from Castor and the normal synthetic oils found in glow fuel, to the gasoline and standard 2-stroke oil, doesn't have enough lubricating power for the bottom end of the "converted" glow engines. I wonder if the manufacturers will find an alternative oil that can be mixed with gasoline, that will satisfy the bottom ends of these tiny engines? The ability to be able to use pump gas in these small 1/8 scale car and truck engines instead of Nitro fuel is quite appealing. 3 bucks a gallon instead of $25-$30. The engines start easier that the Nitro versions, get excellent fuel mileage, are easier to tune, and no glow plug igniter is needed. It's too bad that the rod failures are overly high. Hopefully the manufacturers will figure out the issue.
Now why haven't engine makers been able to make new (small) spark ignition engines to replace glow engines at least for use in old timer style RC models? Not enough market?
Yeah Garry, It depends a bit on what you mean by "small". Obviously the market is extremely limited for anything that needs a bit of skill or experience to operate. The trade only sells "immediate results", which they now consider means "electric" for small models. I use diesels for any small or old timer models. I'm still using big 2-stroke glows for modern planes, and I don't intend changing, except for the occasional spark ignition, like this Ohlsson, in a big old-timer. Thanks for your interest, BC
Yeah Gary, I'm not interested in modern spark engines and I don't know anything about them, but I have the impression that a modern spark 40 exists... Is that no so? In any case, I think modern spark engines are being imposed by the trade, for reasons that I don't consider valid. The trade just needs everyone to change engines, just to keep selling...
Thank you. I'm about to do a similar video for a McCoy 60 spark engine, but it's winter and we haven't had reasonable daylight for a couple of months. It'll happen soon.
Yes Tom, I agree. Obviously there may be a small loss of top-end rpm, but it's a small price to pay for the excellent throttling and "usability". Within the next couple of days, I shall be starting a Ben Buckle Double Diamond for this engine. Even if I manage to "wear" the engine, I have about half a dozen newish "big-ports" that will accept the carb, and a lot of O&R 60s that will fit the same mounting.
Hi Laura's Dad, I hope this doesn't seem too much like stalking, but you must be a really proud parent at this stage! Did you introduce her to classic Rock 'n Roll when she was a wee bairn? Cheers/à bientôt. btw. nice Mech. Eng. explanations.
Hi Denis, Thanks for your kind comments. Yes, Laura was born listening to country rock (and model aircraft engines), but I never expected this to happen! I've kinda nudged her in the right direction, but she's done all the "work" on her own. Thanks again, BC
She must have been a bit of a Tomboy with those, Model Aeroplanes :) But the way she has mastered the guitar over the years shines a light for guitar gals in future
I have this engine, too. Reckon I'll unwrap it and get it going again, just for the nostalgia! Thanks for the inspiration! John Beck in beautiful Cape Town, South Africa.
Thanks for your interest.
They are superb engines.
I have friends near you, in Port Alfred.
Regards, BC
Very nice mate she sound great ,so was performance 👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
It's a super engine.
Boy, those engines certainly have an exact point where they "come on song", and it happens abruptly. It instantly changes from 4-cycling to 2-cycling at a very distinct point in its RPM range, no in between, just BANG and it's there... Nice old engine! 👌
Very nice ! I have a 1946 O&R 60 . It's been in the family since 1949 and was restored to ignition a little over 8 yrs ago by my brother's friend Bob Edelstein of Lansing MI .It enjoyed its early life on the front end of a Sky Buggy free flight biplane from the 30's which no longer exists , sniff sniff ! Nice job with adding the carburetor !
Very innovative. That looks to be an OS 40 FP carb or smaller. Runs really nice. I have small port Ohlsson that runs really well on my Playboy. I also fly a lot of control line planes with Anderson Spitfires and Super Cyclones. Oh, and one Atwood Super Champion and an Orwick.
I just love old ignition engines, and converted my OS FS 60 open rocker to ignition. I made a breaker plate and used a set of points from an old Harley Sportster. Runs great. I run stove fuel and Walmart Super Tech 2 stroke oil. It burns clean and runs cool. 3 to 1 in the old engines, and I use the synthetic 16 to 1 in the four stroke.
Thanks for the video. Very cool indeed.
Dude, that is excellent! I havn't run my O&R 60 for about 30 yrs, but we'll be getting it out now! I especially like the 1960's era wooden airscrew, they didn't cut you as bad as the newer plastic ones!!!!!
Thanks for your interest. O&R 60s are great engines providing you don't try to run them fast on small propellers.
Over the decades I seem to have accumulated a huge collection of propellers (many hundreds, maybe even a thousand) and I apply a simple rule: old technology props on old technology engines and new technology props on recent engines. Never a problem.
Great run well done,👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you.
Back in the 30's and 40's when these spark ignition engines were made, they were powering free flight or control line airplanes and thus they didn't need a throttle. Throttle became important once three or more channel radios were invented in the 60's I think.
Well done,,, I had one missing the fuel bowl and it had a glow plug on the top. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for your kind comment.
Note that this last (1949) version 60 side port shouldn't have a fuel tank, but all the earlier ones did of course. Regards, BC
J-M, Thanks for your kind comment. I don't know why it isn't appearing with the other comments...
One of my projects is obviously to build a plane for this Ohlsson...
It is a good idea....a Comet-clipper from Carl Golberg may a good candidate....Regards
Really enjoying your videos, great information and presentation, thank you!
Brian, words of wisdom, as ever! Your comments about what they want us to buy apply to everything I suppose. The system makes slaves of us all ... we can say no to "progress", I do it every day. Now if only I could buysome ether ....bests, john
Runs darn good!
Thank you.
Yeah, they're super engines.
Very very nice job!!!!!and it runs beautiful...
An early Merco swashplate carb, good mid range adjustment.
Thanks very much. I didn't know what it was.
I bought myself a Forster 29 to do this to a couple days ago! Planning on removing the stock intake tube intact and threading in an adapter for the carb so I can return it to stock later, also planning on attaching the points to the throttle(Either through radio mixing and two servos or mechanically via linkage) to give it automatic timing advance. Base timing of around 3-6ºBTDC should give me an idle in the 1200RPM range. Will find out I 'spose! Gonna run it on glow fuel though, and the hope is to be able to actually fly the thing.
If you only want to fly old timer (my case), and you're using a fairly big propeller, it isn't really essential to vary the ignition timing with the throttle. The engines are flexible enough to idle very well and go to max. rpm, on the same timer setting, providing the propeller limits max. rpm to around 7k, which is more than enough power for old timer flying.
I prefer pump gas in these old engines. Glow fuel is simply more expensive for no advantage.
@@briancox3691 I'm probably not going to be putting it in a period airframe. Instead I'm prolly gonna be putting it in a rather floaty foamy, or maybe a modern 20-size trainer/civil plane. If the rod's healthy enough I might prop it for somewhere around 8-9k...on glow fuel there'll be tons of castor back there lubing everything.
I'm already set up for glow fuel as it is. I fly nothing but. Putting Omega 15 through it when I already run Omega 15 through the rest of my air fleet is no big deal at all. Also, if I do mount it to a foamy, glow fuel is a must; EPO will not care about methanol but gasoline turns it into goo.
Also not entirely sure the carb I have is fine enough to meter a fuel mix that lean. In all likelihood itt'l be off my old AE 18 nitro car engine, or perhaps the one I scavenged off a Webra 28 parts mill. Gasoline wants a 13:1 fuel mix on a 2c, methanol fuels in the 5:1-8:1 area.
I might just run it off gasoline with the stock mixer though, just to verify I have the ignition circuit working right. Got plenty of big 4c props that'll keep it from revving to the moon. 11-7-3 for example, could borrow a 12-8-3 off my FS70 for that test.
@@briancox3691 My engine's in and a strong runner. Put an OS F plug in the head, Omega 15 in the tank, a 10-6 MAS on the prop, and it spun up to 10k RPM without hesitation. Could fly a lighter build 40size plane off of it! That's roundabout what an OS 40FP will do.
Next step is to track down a condsensor, a coil, and attach the carb...
How do you determine which model you have? I bought one that was described as a 60, but there seems to be much debate as to which one I actually have. I've been told .19, .23, but it's larger than my McCoy 29 so a 33 maybe? It has a serial number in the 10k's, is missing the ignition assembly and was equipped with Champion VG1 glow plug, also a small port. It came with the original and apparently rare, O&R "accessory gas tank". One person says "a 60 is huge, much bigger than what you have there." Are they possibly misjudging the overall size? I'm at a loss.
Hi Steven, Thank you for your kind comments. I've been collecting Ohlssons (and others) for nearly 60 years and I have at least one of all the aero Ohlssons ever produced. Knowing how to recognise them is just interest and experience, and you gradually accumulate the knowledge over the years. 50 years ago, I wasn't sure which engines I had either!
Anyway, if you care to send me a photo of your engine (and bits), I should be able to tell you exactly what you have... Mail a photo to
bcox0939@gmail.com
I read thru the comments and found no mention that that carberetor is off a GLOW engine which is app 25% castor oil and 75% Methanal which usualy runs MUCH richer than gasoline as the carb. appears to be off about a .40 C.I , THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE WOULD BE OK BUT THE SLOW SPEED ( idle setting would be WAY rich ) so try leaning out the idle needl, I think that carb. has a air bleed idle system, ( take the idle needle completly out and if the tip is blunt, it is an air bleed system, so to lean it you screw it OUT more ( to get the engine to two/cycle at an idle maybe as that carb was deseigned for glow fuel you may have to remove the idle needle COMPLEATLY ( I bought a 1948 O+R 60 brand new in 1963, that was on sale at a hobby shop in Arcadia that was going out of bisness, I still have it missing the fuel bowl compleat with 14/ 6 wooden prop.!!
Hi Earl, Thanks for your interest and your comments, but everything you suggest assumes that I'm not satisfied with the way it throttles in the video, and that's not true.
I think it throttles very well and I'm certainly not going to start messing with it!
Regards, BC
@@briancox3691 guess im going to have to try that with my own O+R engine as I have the exact same one as you do and I also happen to have a worn out OS40 ( that one of yours sure sounds GREAT!!)
Brian - I saw your pics & short article in latest S&T - this is very interesting to me as I have 3 - O&R60s and 3 - 23s which I plan to run this year. I never thought it would be possible to throttle them like this. Nice one.
As I don't have any old carbs lying about I will buy a new one from Just Engines - can you maybe suggest what glow engine size carb I should get? They seem to range from 5.2 to 7.5 mm bore - what bore did you use?
And I assume you are running the standard 3:1 petroil mix here?
Malcolm Davis
Hi Malcolm, Thank you for your kind comments. I'll try to answer your questions.
As you saw, I'm using a "big port" 60. If your 60's are pre-1947, i.e. pre big port, then, in my opinion, you probably won't be able to insert the RC carb into the intake tube, the way I did. You'll have to use some kind of adapter (which could be just silicone tubing...) to interface between the intake tube and the carb. Don't worry about carburettor internal bore. The outer diameter interfacing with the intake tube is more important. As I said, I just found one "at random", and it worked first time. If I was searching, like you, I'd be tempted to try say a Merco 29 or 35 carb on the Ohlsson 60. Another obvious point is that if you insert the carb, the way I did, then a precise fit in the intake tube is obviously desirable, but if you're using an earlier O&R 60 (smaller ports) then, as I said, you'll need at least a silicone tube joiner, and the resulting flexibility will make precise dimensions less important.
It's just occurred to me that, rather than guessing with "Just Engines", why don't you get an RC carb from PAW? I could even check my PAWs and see which size of carb you need for the Ohlssons that you possess.
Finally, Yes I always use the old "3 to 1" fuel. If you try running using the original plastic tank, make sure you're getting pure pump gas, and not the "modern" mix containing ethanol.
Excellent vid, as usual, Brian. One question .... with diesel approaching £15 or more per litre, the fuel costs of sparkies looks very attractive. How small canmodern sparkies get, do you think?john
John, I have a different view of all this. With the exception of a few special interest groups, like SAM or the Barton mob, engine trends are trade driven, i.e. yer average modeller is using what the trade wants him to use!
You and I are both running engines that were being "pushed" by the trade between 50 and 70 years ago.
Nowadays, the trade has decided that small engines will be replaced by electric, and all larger engines will be gas/spark. As you can imagine, I don't like this and I certainly don't feel at all concerned!
The "last generation" of glow engines (e.g. red Irvines, and corresponding OS) are so good that, with a few of them, most modellers would never need to buy another engine (my case). Obviously, the trade can't accept that, and modellers need to be persuaded to buy new engines, so we've invented a ridiculous "fuel cost" problem. I read that we should pay considerable sums, for more complex and less reliable (gas) engines, for peanuts in fuel cost saving.
Don't consider fuel cost per litre (meaningless), consider how much you spend on fuel in a year, versus how much you would spend using gas, and compare that difference with the cost of re-equipping with a new selection of gas engines, for the range of models that you fly...
And even then, do you want your modelling activity to be dictated by "it's a few quid cheaper"? when you'd have to go through a whole new learning process, instead of just enjoying your present level of expertise.
Finally, to answer your question(!), I don't think anyone will make "small" gas engines.
As always, sincere Thanks for your interest and contact!
Brian
@@briancox3691 I have noticed some small 4.5cc gasoline engines have come on the market for the 1/8 scale car/truck crowd. They look to be slightly modified versions of basic Nitro glow engines, that have spark ignitions added to them. From the reviews I've read, they don't make as much power as their same size Nitro cousins (that's understandable) and the early reviews seem to indicate that rods failures from burnt big end bearings seems to be an issue with the current engines. These things burn just regular pump gas and common 2-cycle oil mix. I'm thinking that the switch from Castor and the normal synthetic oils found in glow fuel, to the gasoline and standard 2-stroke oil, doesn't have enough lubricating power for the bottom end of the "converted" glow engines. I wonder if the manufacturers will find an alternative oil that can be mixed with gasoline, that will satisfy the bottom ends of these tiny engines? The ability to be able to use pump gas in these small 1/8 scale car and truck engines instead of Nitro fuel is quite appealing. 3 bucks a gallon instead of $25-$30. The engines start easier that the Nitro versions, get excellent fuel mileage, are easier to tune, and no glow plug igniter is needed. It's too bad that the rod failures are overly high. Hopefully the manufacturers will figure out the issue.
Now why haven't engine makers been able to make new (small) spark ignition engines to replace glow engines at least for use in old timer style RC models? Not enough market?
Yeah Garry, It depends a bit on what you mean by "small". Obviously the market is extremely limited for anything that needs a bit of skill or experience to operate. The trade only sells "immediate results", which they now consider means "electric" for small models. I use diesels for any small or old timer models. I'm still using big 2-stroke glows for modern planes, and I don't intend changing, except for the occasional spark ignition, like this Ohlsson, in a big old-timer.
Thanks for your interest, BC
I'm thinking .25 to .40 size, nothing exotic, updated gasoline/oil 2-stroke with non-critical RC carb
Yeah Gary, I'm not interested in modern spark engines and I don't know anything about them, but I have the impression that a modern spark 40 exists... Is that no so?
In any case, I think modern spark engines are being imposed by the trade, for reasons that I don't consider valid. The trade just needs everyone to change engines, just to keep selling...
Sigh. A tear rolled down the cheek. Very pretty little job that.
Thank you. I'm about to do a similar video for a McCoy 60 spark engine, but it's winter and we haven't had reasonable daylight for a couple of months. It'll happen soon.
Brian Cox looking forward to it very much!
The intake diameter has been restricted somewhat by the carb.
Yes Tom, I agree. Obviously there may be a small loss of top-end rpm, but it's a small price to pay for the excellent throttling and "usability". Within the next couple of days, I shall be starting a Ben Buckle Double Diamond for this engine. Even if I manage to "wear" the engine, I have about half a dozen newish "big-ports" that will accept the carb, and a lot of O&R 60s that will fit the same mounting.
Brian Cox it should be fine for the DD
Hi Laura's Dad, I hope this doesn't seem too much like stalking, but you must be a really proud parent at this stage!
Did you introduce her to classic Rock 'n Roll when she was a wee bairn?
Cheers/à bientôt.
btw. nice Mech. Eng. explanations.
Hi Denis, Thanks for your kind comments. Yes, Laura was born listening to country rock (and model aircraft engines), but I never expected this to happen! I've kinda nudged her in the right direction, but she's done all the "work" on her own. Thanks again, BC
She must have been a bit of a Tomboy with those, Model Aeroplanes :)
But the way she has mastered the guitar over the years shines a light for guitar gals in future
Btw. Check out Tal Wilkenfeld.
What an incredibly annoying noise! Put a muffler on that relic!
You need to find videos on knitting or goldfish or something like that.
@@briancox3691top reply Mr Brian