Hi Brian I love your Videos too!! I have learned so much from you I am a late starter having missed all this beautiful end of the Hobby due to my R/C years, however I am making up for lost time I have quickly last year purchased several diesels all run in with your advice and guidance, THANK YOU!!!!
Hi, Thanks for your kind comments. I'm in a similar situation to yourself, but in reverse. I've been aeromodelling since 1948 and messing with engines (mostly diesels) since 1950, but I only started to learn RC flying properly in 2012. I've posted fewer videos over the last year, mainly because I've been having great fun with Wot 4s and Acrowots, etc. but I'm getting back into the videos. I'm about to post a McCoy 60 running video (in a few days), which I hope you'll like. Thanks for your interest, BC
Hi Wille, Yes, PAW run every engine before shipping out. This one is superb and it wouldn't really have needed the muffler removal, etc. But you don't find that out until afterwards! Thanks for your interest. Regards, BC
Excellent video - amazing engine - I am thinking this engine will be great for a .60 size control line stunt and with such a large prop on it, the performance will be spectacular. I also noticed that after you installed the muffler on, you had to back-out the compression almost half a turn, which tells me that the muffler adds some additional pressure as well. What a sweet running engine indeed. A Superb engine indeed as your concluding remark !!!
Hi Charles. The muffler doesn't create additional pressure. It retains heat, so the cylinder/combustion chamber run slightly hotter with the muffler than without. This is true of all engines. Now, as you know, in a diesel, compression heats the mixture up to combustion temperature and, as the muffler is creating a slightly hotter cylinder/combustion chamber, then less heat needs to be generated by compression, i.e. less compression is needed. OK?
John, with your PAW 100 comments, I noticed that I'm not getting email notifications of comments. I don't know why... Anyway, I decided to check for other comments, and I found this one! Concerning the prop centring. It should be OK (I haven't looked) as I have a huge stash of propellers (several hundred), and I always try to make sure that the prop hub hole is exactly the right size for the crankshaft (or bolt). However, the idle is very slow, and these super big PAWs do tend to wobble a bit when running very slowly... The idle is slower than you could get with a glow, so comparison isn't possible...
One more clarification if you don't mind - when you say you will run the engine for a half an hour at a rich / uncompressed setting, can I assume this will be in 5 min intervals ?
No. On traditional technology engines (lapped piston in a steel liner), I just leave the engine running rich and easy for around 40 minutes, then gradually increase rpm up to a normal operating (flying) value. I know this isn't the modern procedure with ABC glow engines, etc. But 50/60 years ago, everyone did it this way, I've never changed and my (traditional technology) engines are still all in perfect condition.
@@briancox3691 Thank you Brian ... am I also of the traditional - old fashioned way ( more than 50 years old myself ) and even though I grew up with diesel engines of all sorts (back in Europe) my real exposure to break-in engines ( the traditional way ) was only with glow engines ( Fox, McCoy, etc .. ) which also had lapped pistons on steel liners ) and so our approach was 2 to 3 min runs at rich setting with an occasional pinch on the fuel line to lean the engine for a second or so, then after 40 mins of rich runnings we started gradual leaning our runs .. until eventually the engine would hold a peek ( flying ) setting without sagging .. So trust me, I am on the old fashioned / traditional guy myself, and all my engines still run as if "brand new" and always start on the second or third flip ..
I think that's the first time I've ever seen a model diesel actually running properly! Usually people keep dicking with the mixer, tommy bar, and it just coughs and sputters and spews schmoo while never really spooling up or running worth a shit. Then here you are with just a couple tweaks, wham bam, it runs like an OS. If I could readily make or acquire fuel for these in my area I might actually consider this engine. I did notice some hesitation on transition though. Does the carb have a low-end mixture adjust of some sort on it?
Luke Shaw Hi Luke, Thanks for your kind comments. The fuel used is just English commercial sport diesel fuel. Usually, I show the fuel can label in the video, which gives the fuel mix, but I forgot this time (sorry!). However, if you look at my "PAW 19 RC TBR" video, after about the first 30 seconds, I show the fuel can label and you'll see the fuel mix (fairly standard). Concerning purchasing, any PAW can be bought on their Web site, and they're all great engines. They no longer anodize the heads, so current sales are all plain alloy heads, but the running qualities are still superb. Thanks again for your interest. BC
Hi Danny, It's very easy. Just a couple of points to be careful about, to avoid disturbing the cylinder. 1. Remove the compression screw. 2. Carefully remove the 4 head retaining screws (using a "correct" screwdriver!). 3. Then hold the exhaust firmly down against the crankcase (to prevent the cylinder from moving) and pull the head (fins) upwards to remove it. 4. Then, while pressing the cylinder down against the crankcase (just one finger pressure is OK, again to prevent the cylinder from moving), pull the exhaust upwards to remove it. Also, take care to remove the two gaskets (above and below the exhaust), and keep them for when you reinstall the silencer. 5. Then put the head back onto the cylinder, first making sure that the screw holes in the head and crankcase are properly aligned (to avoid having to twist the head when it's installed on the cylinder). 6. Then insert the four head screws and tighten them in the usual "diagonally opposed" sequence. Tighten them as tight as you can with a "normal" size screwdriver. 7. Then just insert the compression screw and you're ready for running. Afterwards, you obviously proceed in the same manner to reinstall the silencer. Good luck! BC
Hi, Apologies! On most of my videos I show the fuel used (a photo of the can label, which shows the mix), but on this video I appear to have forgotten... Anyway, I use English commercial diesel fuel (Southern Modelcraft Sport Diesel), which is very close to the traditional diesel mix of 3 equal parts ether/kerosene/castor, plus a couple of percent of ignition additive (DII or similar). In any case, diesel fuel mix isn't critical except for high level competition, and any mix that's fairly close to that mentioned above will give good results. Like I said, the exact fuel mix is shown on most of my other diesel videos, and I always use the same fuel, but it's not critical. Thanks for your interest, BC
I love your videos Brian! I am getting a few diesel engines as well so I can become a bit more accustomed to them. I am learning a ton from watching you. With the difficulty in getting ether in the US I am pretty much relegated to buying Davis Diesel fuel. I see that you really just squirt large amounts to get an engine started. I just cannot do that as the fuel is like liquid gold. Do you make your own fuel? Another question, why don't you secure your fuel tank so it isn't blowing around?
Brian, after re-installing the muffler, you said you would run the engine for 30-40 minutes at the rich setting, low compression, full throttle, but you are still using the same small tank. Can I assume that each time the tank went dry you would immediately refill and start the engine again to accumulate the 30-40 minutes of break-in running? OR, did you allow the engine to completely cool between tanks during the entire run-in process? THANKS.
Richard, Sorry I've taken so long to reply. We had seriously flooding here last Spring, and I'm still catching up on my "things to do". My running in is "old school". With a new engine, I always start by running the engine gently for say around 40 minutes. That's done on the bench. I only use diesels to fly Old Timer, so after the bench running in, the engine is OK to fly gently in an Old Timer, and you know that you can progressively get more power if and when you need it. To answer you specific question. If the engine is obviously OK and not overheating, I just let it run continuously for the 40 minutes, either by installing a bigger tank, or just by frequent topping up in the case of a smallish tank. Thanks for your interest.
Hi, Thanks for your interest. Unfortunately I still haven't flown this engine. I have so many engines that, to be honest, I never get to fly most of them, but I run them all!!! PAWs are superb engines and this one will probably get flown one day, if I live long enough... Regards, BC
+Claude Nicoli Hi Claude, You can buy one from PAW any time, and it will be as good as mine. I'm about to do a similar video for a "new" PAW 40, and some more classic spark ignition engines. Regards, BC
Hi, I prefer diesels, but they need a bit of "experience" to get this kind of performance. I'm just trying to show how good they can be. But I think you're making a mistake about the fuel. They can't be run on just truck diesel fuel, they need ether, which is difficult to obtain for some people.
@@briancox3691 oh ok, I will see if i can get ether around here... These are some really nice engines tho so i will probably be looking into getting one
@@RBAERO its a diesel they dont get as warm also look up the veco 19 it was a plane engine that is also has been used in cars and boats without extra cooling
@@RBAERO I dont know about cars but I do have a few diesel boats (should make a video about them) but If I find the correct engine I would love to make a diesel car
Why such an enormous prop.. and you do know they come from the factory with the needle and comp screw set for optimum running.. so why all the taking apart and fiddling about. Diesels should be run in light at moderate speed say 11,000. Lots of short runs (2 mins each) then . I have about 30 PAWs of all sizes and they last for ever.
We shall just have to disagree. I'll try to answer your statements/questions. Let's start with the easy answer... "Why such a big prop?". Well, it's the prop recommended by PAW for running in that engine, and it so happens that I agree. It's about the size I would have used anyway. Concerning the compression and fuel needle settings, I started by deliberately "losing" the settings, just to show how to find them. Concerning the muffler removal. The video clearly states that, on this engine, there was no need to remove the muffler. However, any new engine starts a lot easier, for the first time, without a muffler and, as I mentioned on the video, you don't find out whether you needed to remove the muffler or not until afterwards. I disagree with your ideas of running in. Sounds like "glow culture". 11000 rpm is enormous (ridiculous) on a 49 or 60 diesel. Where did you get that idea from?!! They're only flown at around 8000 rpm, and mostly idling at about half that. Running big diesels above 10k is not something I would do and, respectfully, running in a big diesel at 11k is ridiculous. It's a lot faster than the normal operating rpm. One last remark. I've been running diesels since 1950, and PAWs since 1958. I've never heard anyone suggest that "sport" or RC diesels should be run in at 11k. Try suggesting it to PAW and see what you get for an answer...
Brian Cox many apologies about the prop size for running in, your absolutely right about the 15 x 6 I have just re read the instructions I have with my 40 TBR it seems the 40 and 49 are two different beasts. I bought mine after seeing Tony fly his freebird at the hats some years ago . I only fly Control line with my diesels and use a 12 x 6 or 11 x 7 with the 40 which gives fairly good performance. For all my other IC engines I tend to prop them for in flight rpm just below max power. So I get the performance. Of course the smaller PAWs rev much higher than these larger sizes and require suitable props to achieve this unless the comp rules proscribe the prop such as vintage combat which mandates an 8 x 6. However I by no means scream around the sky as I always fly using the throttle. How do you find the throttling on your 49..?
It's a .49 and he's using a wooden prop. It's large to get the flywheel effect. My MVVS .60 diesel used to lug around an enlarged Wot4 using a 14" Zinger. Superb engine, superb torque. My only regret is selling it but I'm getting one of my MDS.60's converted so that will make up for it. You say diesels should be run-in light at 11000. On some engines that's top end. I think the guy had it about right, but, we all have our methods!
@@briancox3691 This is why I want to use kerosene, not 10% nitro. Much more splash-tolerant. Seriously: I am about to start working community fun with kids making things that fly, and I can sell this fuel a lot easier to parents than "nitroMETHANE?" they say. True. ;-] Many thanks re "running in" advice.
Hi Brian I love your Videos too!! I have learned so much from you I am a late starter having missed all this beautiful end of the Hobby due to my R/C years, however I am making up for lost time I have quickly last year purchased several diesels all run in with your advice and guidance, THANK YOU!!!!
Hi, Thanks for your kind comments. I'm in a similar situation to yourself, but in reverse. I've been aeromodelling since 1948 and messing with engines (mostly diesels) since 1950, but I only started to learn RC flying properly in 2012. I've posted fewer videos over the last year, mainly because I've been having great fun with Wot 4s and Acrowots, etc. but I'm getting back into the videos. I'm about to post a McCoy 60 running video (in a few days), which I hope you'll like.
Thanks for your interest, BC
Gig would be proud of that motor. Extremely powerful and flexible.
Yes, all the PAW TBRs are superb engines. The others run just as well!
Thanks for your interest!
Thanks Brian, great breaking and the wooden support of the tank is skating in the oil of the table :-)
Un muy bello motor!!!! Extraordinariamente hermoso!!!! La puesta en marcha es fascinante!! Muchas gracias!!
Thank you!
Great demonstration.
Thank you.
Great video very interesting , thanks for sharing 🙂
Sir, you are a lucky man... beautiful engine indeed....
hi, that meticulous care in running in, these I think are motors that are actually run when built by PAW, PAW is a class act, cheers
Hi Wille, Yes, PAW run every engine before shipping out. This one is superb and it wouldn't really have needed the muffler removal, etc. But you don't find that out until afterwards!
Thanks for your interest. Regards, BC
Back in the '60s my dad brought me a Taifun Tornado diesel from a trip to Germany. Loud engine !
Really nice, great engine, thanks for sharing
What would happen if you used a vented disk rather than a propeller for a flywheel?
Sorry, I can't think of a polite answer.
Excellent video - amazing engine - I am thinking this engine will be great for a .60 size control line stunt and with such a large prop on it, the performance will be spectacular. I also noticed that after you installed the muffler on, you had to back-out the compression almost half a turn, which tells me that the muffler adds some additional pressure as well. What a sweet running engine indeed. A Superb engine indeed as your concluding remark !!!
Hi Charles. The muffler doesn't create additional pressure. It retains heat, so the cylinder/combustion chamber run slightly hotter with the muffler than without. This is true of all engines.
Now, as you know, in a diesel, compression heats the mixture up to combustion temperature and, as the muffler is creating a slightly hotter cylinder/combustion chamber, then less heat needs to be generated by compression, i.e. less compression is needed. OK?
@@briancox3691 Perfect explanation / clarification .. Thank you very much !
@@briancox3691 excellent description and many thanks!
Super ! le moteur est magnifique et la mise en route est vraiment efficace !
Michel Camargue Merci Michel, comme quoi être vieux ça sert quand même à quelque chose...
J'espère qu'il y aura d'autres bientôt.
Brain great vid and what a best of a engine but it should start that way out of box anyway
Brian, Great videos! Is there a good source for commercially available model diesel fuel?
What is your plan for this one and the .60?
Brian, great explanation and demo ... but was your prop centred exactly?
John, with your PAW 100 comments, I noticed that I'm not getting email notifications of comments. I don't know why... Anyway, I decided to check for other comments, and I found this one!
Concerning the prop centring. It should be OK (I haven't looked) as I have a huge stash of propellers (several hundred), and I always try to make sure that the prop hub hole is exactly the right size for the crankshaft (or bolt).
However, the idle is very slow, and these super big PAWs do tend to wobble a bit when running very slowly... The idle is slower than you could get with a glow, so comparison isn't possible...
One more clarification if you don't mind - when you say you will run the engine for a half an hour at a rich / uncompressed setting, can I assume this will be in 5 min intervals ?
No. On traditional technology engines (lapped piston in a steel liner), I just leave the engine running rich and easy for around 40 minutes, then gradually increase rpm up to a normal operating (flying) value. I know this isn't the modern procedure with ABC glow engines, etc. But 50/60 years ago, everyone did it this way, I've never changed and my (traditional technology) engines are still all in perfect condition.
@@briancox3691 Thank you Brian ... am I also of the traditional - old fashioned way ( more than 50 years old myself ) and even though I grew up with diesel engines of all sorts (back in Europe) my real exposure to break-in engines ( the traditional way ) was only with glow engines ( Fox, McCoy, etc .. ) which also had lapped pistons on steel liners ) and so our approach was 2 to 3 min runs at rich setting with an occasional pinch on the fuel line to lean the engine for a second or so, then after 40 mins of rich runnings we started gradual leaning our runs .. until eventually the engine would hold a peek ( flying ) setting without sagging .. So trust me, I am on the old fashioned / traditional guy myself, and all my engines still run as if "brand new" and always start on the second or third flip ..
dude your doing it right.
I think that's the first time I've ever seen a model diesel actually running properly! Usually people keep dicking with the mixer, tommy bar, and it just coughs and sputters and spews schmoo while never really spooling up or running worth a shit. Then here you are with just a couple tweaks, wham bam, it runs like an OS.
If I could readily make or acquire fuel for these in my area I might actually consider this engine.
I did notice some hesitation on transition though. Does the carb have a low-end mixture adjust of some sort on it?
wow! what a nice engine how much to by one new and whats in your fule and how to mix it?
Luke Shaw Hi Luke,
Thanks for your kind comments. The fuel used is just English commercial sport diesel fuel. Usually, I show the fuel can label in the video, which gives the fuel mix, but I forgot this time (sorry!).
However, if you look at my "PAW 19 RC TBR" video, after about the first 30 seconds, I show the fuel can label and you'll see the fuel mix (fairly standard).
Concerning purchasing, any PAW can be bought on their Web site, and they're all great engines. They no longer anodize the heads, so current sales are all plain alloy heads, but the running qualities are still superb.
Thanks again for your interest.
BC
ok cool thank you for your time i can't wate to see more new vids from you! :)
Hi Brian ,I have watched your excellent videos may times ,now I own a PAW 40 and I was wondering how you remove the exhaust?
Regards
Danny
Hi Danny, It's very easy. Just a couple of points to be careful about, to avoid disturbing the cylinder.
1. Remove the compression screw.
2. Carefully remove the 4 head retaining screws (using a "correct" screwdriver!).
3. Then hold the exhaust firmly down against the crankcase (to prevent the cylinder from moving) and pull the head (fins) upwards to remove it.
4. Then, while pressing the cylinder down against the crankcase (just one finger pressure is OK, again to prevent the cylinder from moving), pull the exhaust upwards to remove it. Also, take care to remove the two gaskets (above and below the exhaust), and keep them for when you reinstall the silencer.
5. Then put the head back onto the cylinder, first making sure that the screw holes in the head and crankcase are properly aligned (to avoid having to twist the head when it's installed on the cylinder).
6. Then insert the four head screws and tighten them in the usual "diagonally opposed" sequence. Tighten them as tight as you can with a "normal" size screwdriver.
7. Then just insert the compression screw and you're ready for running.
Afterwards, you obviously proceed in the same manner to reinstall the silencer.
Good luck!
BC
@@briancox3691 thanks Brian!
what type of fuel did you use?
Hi, Apologies! On most of my videos I show the fuel used (a photo of the can label, which shows the mix), but on this video I appear to have forgotten... Anyway, I use English commercial diesel fuel (Southern Modelcraft Sport Diesel), which is very close to the traditional diesel mix of 3 equal parts ether/kerosene/castor, plus a couple of percent of ignition additive (DII or similar).
In any case, diesel fuel mix isn't critical except for high level competition, and any mix that's fairly close to that mentioned above will give good results.
Like I said, the exact fuel mix is shown on most of my other diesel videos, and I always use the same fuel, but it's not critical.
Thanks for your interest, BC
I love your videos Brian! I am getting a few diesel engines as well so I can become a bit more accustomed to them. I am learning a ton from watching you. With the difficulty in getting ether in the US I am pretty much relegated to buying Davis Diesel fuel. I see that you really just squirt large amounts to get an engine started. I just cannot do that as the fuel is like liquid gold. Do you make your own fuel? Another question, why don't you secure your fuel tank so it isn't blowing around?
It is a great pleasure to see two icons in the same report !!! Congratulations to Mr Brian Cox and Dave Mcintire!
Brian, after re-installing the muffler, you said you would run the engine for 30-40 minutes at the rich setting, low compression, full throttle, but you are still using the same small tank. Can I assume that each time the tank went dry you would immediately refill and start the engine again to accumulate the 30-40 minutes of break-in running? OR, did you allow the engine to completely cool between tanks during the entire run-in process? THANKS.
Richard, Sorry I've taken so long to reply. We had seriously flooding here last Spring, and I'm still catching up on my "things to do".
My running in is "old school". With a new engine, I always start by running the engine gently for say around 40 minutes. That's done on the bench. I only use diesels to fly Old Timer, so after the bench running in, the engine is OK to fly gently in an Old Timer, and you know that you can progressively get more power if and when you need it.
To answer you specific question. If the engine is obviously OK and not overheating, I just let it run continuously for the 40 minutes, either by installing a bigger tank, or just by frequent topping up in the case of a smallish tank.
Thanks for your interest.
any flight video of this engine?
Hi, Thanks for your interest. Unfortunately I still haven't flown this engine. I have so many engines that, to be honest, I never get to fly most of them, but I run them all!!!
PAWs are superb engines and this one will probably get flown one day, if I live long enough...
Regards, BC
Excellent !!!
+Claude Nicoli Thank you Sir.
Brian,
If one day you decide to sell your PAW 49, I'm buyer
+Claude Nicoli
Hi Claude, You can buy one from PAW any time, and it will be as good as mine. I'm about to do a similar video for a "new" PAW 40, and some more classic spark ignition engines.
Regards,
BC
Everything is ok but i notice that propeller seems to be not balanced
You may be right. I probably didn't check a propeller that I'm only using for running in and/or playing on the bench.
seems so much nicer than a nitro lol, this one actually listens..
plus diesel is cheaper i might look into these engines
Hi, I prefer diesels, but they need a bit of "experience" to get this kind of performance.
I'm just trying to show how good they can be.
But I think you're making a mistake about the fuel. They can't be run on just truck diesel fuel, they need ether, which is difficult to obtain for some people.
@@briancox3691 oh ok, I will see if i can get ether around here...
These are some really nice engines tho so i will probably be looking into getting one
that could make a awsome enge for a rc car
Airplane engines needs lot of airflow to maintain the correct temperature. For use in rc car you need put some EDF or some like this
@@RBAERO its a diesel
they dont get as warm
also look up the veco 19
it was a plane engine that is also has been used in cars and boats without extra cooling
@@robot797 I was seeing in rc boats and tether cars. Please if you have some video link about this or others diesel engines in rc cars share.
@@RBAERO I dont know about cars
but I do have a few diesel boats
(should make a video about them)
but If I find the correct engine I would love to make a diesel car
@@robot797 But Veco 19 is a glow engine. Isn't?
Why such an enormous prop.. and you do know they come from the factory with the needle and comp screw set for optimum running.. so why all the taking apart and fiddling about. Diesels should be run in light at moderate speed say 11,000. Lots of short runs (2 mins each) then . I have about 30 PAWs of all sizes and they last for ever.
We shall just have to disagree. I'll try to answer your statements/questions.
Let's start with the easy answer... "Why such a big prop?". Well, it's the prop recommended by PAW for running in that engine, and it so happens that I agree. It's about the size I would have used anyway.
Concerning the compression and fuel needle settings, I started by deliberately "losing" the settings, just to show how to find them.
Concerning the muffler removal. The video clearly states that, on this engine, there was no need to remove the muffler. However, any new engine starts a lot easier, for the first time, without a muffler and, as I mentioned on the video, you don't find out whether you needed to remove the muffler or not until afterwards.
I disagree with your ideas of running in. Sounds like "glow culture".
11000 rpm is enormous (ridiculous) on a 49 or 60 diesel.
Where did you get that idea from?!!
They're only flown at around 8000 rpm, and mostly idling at about half that.
Running big diesels above 10k is not something I would do and, respectfully, running in a big diesel at 11k is ridiculous. It's a lot faster than the normal operating rpm.
One last remark. I've been running diesels since 1950, and PAWs since 1958.
I've never heard anyone suggest that "sport" or RC diesels should be run in at 11k. Try suggesting it to PAW and see what you get for an answer...
Brian Cox many apologies about the prop size for running in, your absolutely right about the 15 x 6 I have just re read the instructions I have with my 40 TBR it seems the 40 and 49 are two different beasts. I bought mine after seeing Tony fly his freebird at the hats some years ago . I only fly Control line with my diesels and use a 12 x 6 or 11 x 7 with the 40 which gives fairly good performance. For all my other IC engines I tend to prop them for in flight rpm just below max power. So I get the performance. Of course the smaller PAWs rev much higher than these larger sizes and require suitable props to achieve this unless the comp rules proscribe the prop such as vintage combat which mandates an 8 x 6. However I by no means scream around the sky as I always fly using the throttle. How do you find the throttling on your 49..?
It's a .49 and he's using a wooden prop. It's large to get the flywheel effect.
My MVVS .60 diesel used to lug around an enlarged Wot4 using a 14" Zinger. Superb engine, superb torque. My only regret is selling it but I'm getting one of my MDS.60's converted so that will make up for it.
You say diesels should be run-in light at 11000. On some engines that's top end.
I think the guy had it about right, but, we all have our methods!
you do not need to pour in so much fuel on the engine... just a little in the carb and little in the exhaust port... just once..
Thank you for your kind advice.
@@briancox3691 This is why I want to use kerosene, not 10% nitro. Much more splash-tolerant.
Seriously: I am about to start working community fun with kids making things that fly, and I can sell this fuel a lot easier to parents than "nitroMETHANE?" they say. True. ;-]
Many thanks re "running in" advice.