JB Weld Scored cylinder repair PART 2 - DID IT WORK?
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- I put the Briggs & Stratton 60102 2hp engine back together after repairing a badly scored cylinder using JB Weld and try to start it. Did the repair work? Join me to find out!
have various small engines here on the farm...kinda intimidated to get serious with some of the problems they have, but videos as yours really help me tackle them... don't leave us out here in suspense to long there mate... really pulling for guy's as yourself 👍🙋👍🙋👍 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I am thinking about doing that to my dads Honda GX35 powered brushcutter engine this weekend because I replaced the piston & rings in it on Friday night because it was beginning to burn a lot more oil than normal,I mean, if I let it sit & idle for 30 seconds to a minute or 2 it will start to burn oil because pressure has developed in the crankcase,particularly when I crack the throttle open after that it will blow a whole lot of smoke out of the muffler.
When I pulled it down I found out that the cylinder was scratched from half way to the bottom of the cylinder to the point that I can catch my finger nail on it,I am looking at buying some slow setting JB weld or maybe some of that Permatex metal filler, allowing it to cure for a few hours then sand it back so that the scratch is filled in.
So replacing the rings made no difference because the scratch is allowing combustion chamber pressure to bypass the rings & pressurizing the crankcase so it has some blowby.
It is also not allowing the e piston rings to seal properly, the latter mentioned filler has a maximum temperature rating of 149°C or 300°F so I am umming &; ahhing about how hot that engine runs !
I love this kind of thing. Good work mate.
I love your videos about this little 2 hp engine,, i’m just getting into it, I got me a 2 hp engine Briggs & Stratton one week ago 9-16-1922 it is a 1970B&S ,, it was a smoker, I passionately called it old Smokey,, The person I got it from was willing to let it go and sell it to me because it was a smoker,,, I must say to my advantage…… again I don’t know anything about these little motors I’m not very mechanically inclined,,, but I took the head off of it and what I saw inside looked like a motor with only 10 hours on it,, The cylinder walls were pristine,, yet it is 52 years old… pointers, I had a hard time getting it started at first I did everything you did except when I took the filter off I kept my hand over the opening of the carburetor halfway which helped with the suction that I needed in order to tune the jet,,, The carburetor was falling off I put new lock washers on it tighten it back up and it no longer smokes I got it adjusted correctly and it runs like a dream and idles like a dream ,,, look forward to seeing your follow up video
I'd love to know what your ring gap is. I watched part 1 In horror as you "Honed" out to those scratches. Give this a Thought if those scratches that you were catching your fingernail on were lets just say .010" deep, And in the grand scheme of things that's probably pretty accurate, To cut them out you've just bored that Cylinder to .020" With a 3 bar spring Hone. A 3 bar Spring hone has a tendency to make a triangular bore when you try to bore something out with it. a cylinder board gauge would tell you just how "egg" shaped your cylinder is now. None of my comment is ment as an ill willed criticism. And I would truly love to know if the JB Weld actually stayed in the cylinder I've questioned this myself.
Oh trust me I'm painfully aware of how much of a mess I made of this engine. I'm on the lookout for another crank case for it, or at the very least an oversize piston and rings. Hard to get for this engine though. I don't think I removed as much material as you'd think with the honing tool though.
These videos were very useful for showing the result, even if the result wasn't perfect it's very good to know how the approach ended up.
Thanks! I'll have a look myself in the future and see how the repair held up, such as it was.
It’s been brought back from the dead and runs so that’s a win👍
It's a bit of a bitter victory to be honest. I want to get it running a lot better than that.
Really interesting watching you do this repair- exactly the sort of thing I would have thought about trying but to scared to actually do.
Take another look when you can, you got to do the tabs on the rod anyway, let’s see what’s going on in that cylinder now! Well done.
In the future I'll pop the head off and have a look and see how things are. I may try new rings.
Did you change the piston rings also? I as wrote before - I have a 3,5 hp that is 10 times worse than your bore, new piston rings and it runs well. Question 2: How far out are you with the needle valve? Intial start is 1,5 turns. From there let the engine run at working speed, turn clockwise until it just starts to slown down. From there turn anticlockwise until you reach smooth point. It should never be more than 1,5 turns out, then its way to rich. Just want to check since you adjusted it a bit. Keep well and healthy!
No, that's going to be the next job. I'll pick up a set of rings and try the JB Weld again if I missed a bit. I was faffing with the carb just to keep it running. I couldn't get it into any sort of tune. As I said, I'm not giving up just yet.
Greetings from San Diego, Ca. and thanks for posting these two videos. I just opened up a 1978 YZ80 engine the other day, which had been sitting in a field for a few years. She had some decent rust spots on the top of the bore that are probably responsible for lower compression. Anyway, I looked up at the peg board, saw the JB weld hanging there and wondered if anyone had tried addressing the issue like you did. I've heard of using it for impromptu engine repairs, but imagined that cylinder walls wouldn't stand up to that kind of abuse. We'll see. I'm prepared to get her bored out or re-sleeved but thought I'd give my namesake a go see. I hope you get a chance to crack her open for an inspection. It would be neat to see if the adhesion held up. Thanks again!
Thanks, and say hi to everyone in San Diego for me there! 😉 I have run my engine a few times here and there, and although it doesn't run well, it will run. Ultimately I want to try and pick up an oversize piston, but in the meantime, I'll take the head off and see how the repair held up. I might even try new rings before changing the piston. It might work! I just need time to get back to it.
@@Endfloat Do We have a follow-up video on this?
I have a Briggs engine identical to yours and it smokes way worse than that. Now I didn’t try rebuilding it but I think they have low compression at the best of times. I tried running it with a 38 mm mikuni carb to get the fkr to rev out more but it was way too big lol.
Did you check the ring gap at any stage? If you have a bore gauge that would be the most accurate but when you score a cylinder like that, honing is never the cure unfortunately. I always wondered if jb weld is as tough as they claim? I fear that it will have different rates of thermal expansion compared to the cast iron bore and will peel off eventually. Let us know how it goes. you can get pistons and rings for these old 2 horse motors still in the US.
Good luck man
Did you chech gap after lapping valves between valve stem and tappet (follower )
I did and the gaps were fine. Thanks.
Just watching this having my breakfast. Just going now to root at my scooter. Pity about the Briggs doesn't sound great but I am sure you will get it eventually.
Thanks. I think I'm going to shelf it for a while and focus on other things. It's annoying me now. I will come back to it though.
Did you ever make a follow up video to this?
Not yet, no. I haven't had the chance to get back to it.
Hi. Did you check th valve stem gap to the lifter
I did indeed. They were fine. 😁
Give the stator that your magneto runs off a clean with ia rotory wire brush on ya drill. i have a bona scott vintage egder with the briggs engine. she had dramas firing up i cleaned the rust off and seen significant ease in cranking it over obviously the compression is a pain but if you had both it would be near impossible to kick over.
I want to have another look at this engine in the not too distant future. A couple of people have told me that the JB weld worked well on their car engines. I think I'll put a new set of rings in it and see how I go.
Probably need to lap the valves and check gapping
When I get back to this, I'll check that out, thanks.
Change your blinker fluid
If i cant get a decent 350 block I'll b using nickel alloy welding on a cracked cylinder soon. If it works for another 10,000 miles before failing I'll b satified.
25 psi. there's the answer. I've just faced the same reality with my 35 year old 3 hp.
Yeah I do want to revisit this little engine in the future. I'll try putting new rings in it. If I can get an oversize piston, I might do that.
valve gap is off a bit..
Yeah a few people have been saying to check that. I'll have a look at it at some stage and see how it is. I'm pretty sure I did check it though. Thanks for the heads up.
Fuzzy Dice used a similar approach honing out rusty bores which probably should have been rebored and he hasn't completed the project but it may have worked. He used lots of lube instead of lapping compound so I think the trick for this is to have lots and lots of patience because faster cutting doesn't necessarily mean it gets the needed result ruclips.net/video/lSqgJh0Ed5o/видео.html
Thanks for the link. I must have a look at that. I'll be revisiting this little engine in the future.