BMW E39: Door Stuck Shut - Actuator Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 30 окт 2019
- This video demonstrates how to open a stuck-shut door on a BMW E39 5-series. In my case, the right rear door was stuck shut after the electronic door actuator failed.
Part # for ALL E39 Doors: 67118352165
For parts inquiries, please email me: ryan@e39source.com
E39Source website: www.e39source.com
Help support E39Source by donating: www.e39source.com/donate 
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Vapor Barrier Tip - when removing, use a heat gun to soften up the butyl tape. When re-installing just heat up the old butyl tape on the door and on the vapor barrier and then stick it back together while hot. It will make a solid bond. /John
Heads up fellow e39 owners. The actuators usually intermittently fail first. It's worth the shot trying them out every now and then while driving. Not 5+ times consecutively as that will wear out the others. Be sure to have the replacement actuator ready!
Awesome videos! Great job as always
My e39 M5 2000. The same problem and the same section. Thanks u bro u help me cz my rear window down and not working and I want open the door ♥️
The easiest way to get the butyl rope is to go to your local windshield repair shop. There's a few around me that'll sell me full rolls when I need it for practically nothing.
instaBlaster.
Thanks 🙏 for the tutorial!
Easy to watch and explained perfectly!
1of 85 made for USA market ? Interesting 🤔.
Thank you! And yes, Titanium Silver with O6SS full leather sport Silverstone is 1/85 for North America.
Thanks Ryan. e39 Source has always been such a useful resource. Best wishes.
Thanks you so much for this video. I have a E38 740iL and the exact same thing is happening with me. But it is the front driver door for me which really sucks. I have to find a way to remove the door panel while the door is still shut. I'll try it. Otherwise, I will just be looking at the car everyday wishing I could drive it.
very informative, look like I'm facing this problem.
Why is the central locking on E39 so loud and ominous? My '96 benz 's locking is whisper quiet.
Passengers always startle a little, as though you've locked them in for eternity, and if you pull up at the lights, see some undesirables nearby they can hear you lock the car and then they give you the stink eye.
The linkage is pretty raw, and the actuators are aggressive. It's never bothered me!
@@E39Source I'm ok with it, it's just odd
Love ur guides for e39, i wish u can show us how to upgrade manual seats to electric or contour from e38 or even some other car. Can we use e46 or e60 seats ?
E46 and E60 seats will not work in the E39, but E38 seats would bolt right in.
Rebuilding my e90. Outer handle is out, and interior trim panel is off. Actuator seems to work as should but when unlocked pulling on the latch mechanism to open the door does not work, any ideas??
Ryan, thanks for your helpful E39 videos. At 12:30 in this video you mention removing the map tray and replacing it. Before I do this on my car is the compartment bond to the panel very strong? Any tips on removal? Heat? What adhesive/glue did you use to attach the replacement map tray. I don’t want a permanent bond that can’t be overcome if future removal is needed. Thanks!
I replied to your email- but others: I use a general purpose Elmers adhesive that I got at Home Depot.
@@E39Source Many thanks Ryan!!
I'm about to do this because my door lock actuator failed exact same door, but previously my door handle was hard to open from the outside..
will that be a fix for both issues or am I looking for something else for that problem.
Great channel love you content with new to me 540/6
This sounds like a different issue to me. The exterior door handle is connected to the latch assembly with a short bowden cable. This may need to be cleaned/lubricated.
THENK U A LOT!!
Can someone provide the link for that vapor barrier tape?
Ryan
Mine is passenger front and its all the electrics; mirror, lock and window. So its loom related at probably at the door jam point where door electrics meet car electrics. So we need look at that we will need to get the door open. It showed no clues of a failure.
If we can get the door card off, and get a pull on the bowden cable would that at least open the door?
Thanks
Lee
If you can get the door panel off, you'll need to mess around with the latch to get it to unlock. I never remember which pin or cable needs to be pulled/tripped, but you can poke at everything until it opens. It will open eventually.
If the door panel gets stuck on that metal prong, move the panel up, the plastic piece will stay on the door and you can remove it afterwards. Its much easier then to try to reach there while holding the door panel.
Lol commented too early you mentioned it :D
Hello Ryan, I have an 2000 528i sedan. The same door that you’re working on in the video is having the same issue but I would have to open the door with the window rolled down and open it manually from the inside, The actuator works fine and unlocks and locks the door. Is it to get exterior head door that is not working properly? I would love your insight about this thanks.
So just the exterior handle isn't working? There is a Bowden cable that attaches this handle to the latching mechanism, perhaps yours has broken. You'll need to remove the door panel and vapor barrier to open up the door to diagnose.
the same thing happened to my driver's door ... i had to crawl in from the passenger side everytime i got in or out until the new actuator arrived >.> and dont ask how we got it open
damn I have the same problem it just started today after reinstalling a driver side window worked for 2 days no problem then this morning wouldn't open, gonna be a weekend project I guess
Is it just facelift cars that have more metal fasteners? I went to remove my door panel from my 03/2001 build car and there are 2 philips screws behind the door trim in addition to the one T20 behind the door handle.
You must have sunshades. The additional screws are to add strength to the door panel since the sunshades change how the top of the panel attaches. The T20 replaced the phillips screw in 2001 for the door handle.
@@E39Source thanks for the reply! Yeah I have 5 additional fasteners actually now that I got it all apart. 2 right holding the door card to the door, 2 recessed in holes behind the door card to hold the shade, and one last one under the quarter window shade. That one I accidentally missed and it popped 2 rivets out of the door card. They're redone and its back to like new. Still an awesome video! I'll have to pay close attention to my lock actuators now to catch the failure preemptively. I know one of mine occasionally will miss an unlock command from the fob, but I forgot which.
Is that 2-tone leather seat and door panel standard OEM or was it reupholstered?
It is factory, known as 'O6SS' meaning Silverstone (two-tone), sport (textured leather inserts vs the lines that the 'luxury' interior got, and full leather (dash, glovebox, b-pillars, full door panels, steering column etc all fully wrapped in leather). Sport interiors represent about 53% of North-American M5s. Full leather sport interiors represent 5.9% of North-American M5s.
Is that part number good for both sides? I also have a water leak. I will repair both. Great vid
Yes, all 4 actuators are the same.
Wait are you saying the rear passenger airbags arent plugs in in most of the E39 m5...? :o i dont get it
There is an orange sticker in the rear door jambs that says "SIDE AIRBAG NOT OPERATIONAL". This is the case with most cars that came with rear door airbags. Why? I think because if you were to have a child seat back there with a kid in it, and the airbag were to deploy, it would send the child into the next zip code.
@@E39Source :o i didnt notices it on mine, will check next time, btw mine is a french one, so european might be different or maybe not, sound weird they care about using airbags and not plug in them at all xD
How did you open the door? I thought that was the point.
As described in the video- remove the door panel, and then find the latch rod and push it to manually open the door lock.
Would this be the same basic procedure on an E38? Specifically a 2000 750iL?
Yes, though some fastener locations/counts may be different.
@@E39Source Thanks. It was a very helpful video. Both rear doors had the child locks on, but now of course the left door doesn't open from the outside either so now comes the fun part.
My left back door doesn’t open at all, right back door only opens From inside. Don’t even know how to look at it. Would like to do it myself.
Left rear sounds like the problem this video demonstrated, the other one sounds like a broken or stretched out cable from the exterior handle to the latch assembly. Good luck!
Hey man where are you located? If you're in my part of town I want to hire you for this job lol I simply dont have the time to do this but I'm happy to pay for your time.
Escondido, California! Any chance you're close by?
@@E39Source lmaooo dammit I'm in detroit. thanks for the replytho!
I have this same problem for 2013 740li. Do you have a video on how to do it in the front door (from inside). I'm ready to sell this car over this. Please help !!!
A 2013?! Way too new for crap like this. I unfortunately have never serviced an F01 7 series, so I am not familiar with the steps. If you are local to San Diego, I'd be happy to take care of this for you at our shop.
@@E39Source I'm in NY. Long island
the same problem with the same door :)
I have same problem on my car, door has been stuck for 3 years 😉
Why on earth did they cars come with the rear airbag disconnected??
There is an orange sticker in the rear door jambs that says "SIDE AIRBAG NOT OPERATIONAL". This is the case with most cars that came with rear door airbags. Why? I think because if you were to have a child seat back there with a kid in it, and the airbag were to deploy, it would send the child into the next zip code.
The Mechanic that airbag would also be coded out or never coded in to the SRS system. Otherwise the airbag light would be on
@@E39Source Well can you have them operational? If not, and not coded in as John says, why put them there at all?
@@TheHeretic435 They could easily be plugged in and 'coded on' in the airbag module to have them active.
@@E39Source Makes sense.
$83,000 lol
Dealer prices nowadays man
...at least my panel is already off...
Wery similar to bmw e36 and I had the same problem. I solve that but it was very hard to do.
How did you fix it?