Brilliant channel Stu. I have been repairing and overhauling outboard engines for years and find your videos very informative. Thanks for all your hard work mate, cheers.
It worked to check the primary coil voltage for my 2004 Honda 600RR. IMPORTANT: Use multimeter with input impedance DCV 10MΩ or more. Thank you. I really appreciate your work. Greetings from Mexico!!
I believe the resistor (R1) is to keep the capacitor from drawing too much current and cooking the diode. In a situation where you're testing very sudden, but high voltage, low amp currents (an ignition coil), this is not a danger. But conversely, it doesn't have enough time to stabilize voltage in the cap and get a true reading. (The drain resistor (R2) in parallel with the cap will always be acting as a load, reducing the voltage) The switch is the fix for this. Pls correct me if I'm wrong on this :)
Hi Stu. Thanks for the vids, they're helping my son and I "renovate" his 1978 Mercury 50HP 2-stroke. He was born in 2000! Question: is the first resistor obsolete for a new build without altering the other components? Cheers, Ian
Yeah, in hind sight I would just leave it out. The switch hasn't moved since I built it. Great to hear of you and your working together on the motor. There should be more of that. :)
Hi Stu just to let you know the link you provided on your older video led to a discussion group where they provided no 300 ohm resistor and the capacitor was 2.2 uF however the conversations were talking about two 47uF capacitors in series (as I did due stock shortage) which provides 22uF (approx) as your paper circuit you held up before. I looked on eBay and no DVA has a switch thus I assume they have no series resistor I don't know what it is for frankly as the only thing it does is slow down the capacitor charging in the first place perhaps it is to protect the diode and source ignition circuitry as a capacitor presents a short circuit when it is initially connected (open circuit once charged). So have you measured the stator and sensor WITHOUT the 300 ohm resistor at all and if so did anything explode ? (just kidding). Aside from protecting the ignition circuitry (maybe) I cannot see the point of the 300 ohm resistor.
Hi Stu, thankyou for all the videos, really excellent! Will the DVA work ok on a hand crank motor, in my case a Mariner 5hp? I guess I will need to bypass the resistor as you have done at least? Many Thanks
do you absolutely need one I also am rebuilding my 79 50 hp mercury outboard. But I'm having a bit of a fit. I have great compression within 5% on all cylinders. I have checked my stator and have bought a new trigger and cdi. rebuilt carburators and new plugs. rebuilt wiring harness and new cranking battery. I've tried talking to it nicely too but that don't work. it will only fire up after you clean the spark plugs it won't hit on new plugs. and when you clean the old plugs it instantly fires up. I'm puzzled. have you ever saw that before.
+Dustin Mayfield Hey Dustin, that is very strange. Are you sure the new plugs are the right type? Do they spark if you hold them again the engine block rather than trying to start it? Oh, and a DVA tester is only really necessary if you want to test the CDI etc which it sounds like you have already replaced.
Hi Stu,Thanks for the great video's, they have certainly given me some confidence as to what I can expect when diving into an outboard :) I have bought myself components to build your DVA 2.0 but some of the ratings are different than what you suggested, due to availability. D1 - 1N4004, C1 - 2.2uF / 450VDC, R1 - 1/2W / 300ohm, R2 - 1/2W / 1Mohm. The store guy suggested readout changes would be negligible, wondering what's your thoughts on that? Thanks, Geoff
Hi Geoff, glad you've been enjoying the vids. I'm not an expert on electronics, but I'd say they are right in that you will get results that are close enough to give you an accurate diagnosis of how your CDI system is functioning.
Thanks Stu, Good to know. FYI, I panicked and ordered the correct stuff since then anyway lol So I built DVA Mk1 tonight and tested against 240v outlet. Reading on multimeter, set to 600V, was 328V. There was no change whether set to Normal or CDI (R1 bypass) Any thoughts on that?
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Brilliant channel Stu. I have been repairing and overhauling outboard engines for years and find your videos very informative. Thanks for all your hard work mate, cheers.
Thanks mate, glad you enjoy the vids. Thanks for watching!
It worked to check the primary coil voltage for my 2004 Honda 600RR. IMPORTANT: Use multimeter with input impedance DCV 10MΩ or more. Thank you. I really appreciate your work. Greetings from Mexico!!
I believe the resistor (R1) is to keep the capacitor from drawing too much current and cooking the diode.
In a situation where you're testing very sudden, but high voltage, low amp currents (an ignition coil), this is not a danger. But conversely, it doesn't have enough time to stabilize voltage in the cap and get a true reading. (The drain resistor (R2) in parallel with the cap will always be acting as a load, reducing the voltage)
The switch is the fix for this.
Pls correct me if I'm wrong on this :)
Hi Stu. Thanks for the vids, they're helping my son and I "renovate" his 1978 Mercury 50HP 2-stroke. He was born in 2000! Question: is the first resistor obsolete for a new build without altering the other components? Cheers, Ian
Yeah, in hind sight I would just leave it out. The switch hasn't moved since I built it. Great to hear of you and your working together on the motor. There should be more of that. :)
Hi Stu just to let you know the link you provided on your older video led to a discussion group where they provided no 300 ohm resistor and the capacitor was 2.2 uF however the conversations were talking about two 47uF capacitors in series (as I did due stock shortage) which provides 22uF (approx) as your paper circuit you held up before. I looked on eBay and no DVA has a switch thus I assume they have no series resistor I don't know what it is for frankly as the only thing it does is slow down the capacitor charging in the first place perhaps it is to protect the diode and source ignition circuitry as a capacitor presents a short circuit when it is initially connected (open circuit once charged). So have you measured the stator and sensor WITHOUT the 300 ohm resistor at all and if so did anything explode ? (just kidding). Aside from protecting the ignition circuitry (maybe) I cannot see the point of the 300 ohm resistor.
I can't see any point for it either. I just leave it switched to have it out of the circuit these days.
Hi Stu, thankyou for all the videos, really excellent! Will the DVA work ok on a hand crank motor, in my case a Mariner 5hp? I guess I will need to bypass the resistor as you have done at least? Many Thanks
Yep. DVAs work to measure any AC voltage as a peak. Will work fine with a pull start.
Hi mate ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge,
I will bypass the resister too but can you explain me what and how exactly do you test with it ?
ruclips.net/video/MDbvkFM1V_c/видео.html
@@DangarMarine Oh Yeah ! Thanks !!
do you absolutely need one I also am rebuilding my 79 50 hp mercury outboard. But I'm having a bit of a fit. I have great compression within 5% on all cylinders. I have checked my stator and have bought a new trigger and cdi. rebuilt carburators and new plugs. rebuilt wiring harness and new cranking battery. I've tried talking to it nicely too but that don't work. it will only fire up after you clean the spark plugs it won't hit on new plugs. and when you clean the old plugs it instantly fires up. I'm puzzled. have you ever saw that before.
+Dustin Mayfield Hey Dustin, that is very strange. Are you sure the new plugs are the right type? Do they spark if you hold them again the engine block rather than trying to start it? Oh, and a DVA tester is only really necessary if you want to test the CDI etc which it sounds like you have already replaced.
Hi Stu,Thanks for the great video's, they have certainly given me some confidence as to what I can expect when diving into an outboard :)
I have bought myself components to build your DVA 2.0 but some of the ratings are different than what you suggested, due to availability. D1 - 1N4004, C1 - 2.2uF / 450VDC, R1 - 1/2W / 300ohm, R2 - 1/2W / 1Mohm. The store guy suggested readout changes would be negligible, wondering what's your thoughts on that? Thanks, Geoff
Hi Geoff, glad you've been enjoying the vids. I'm not an expert on electronics, but I'd say they are right in that you will get results that are close enough to give you an accurate diagnosis of how your CDI system is functioning.
Thanks Stu, Good to know. FYI, I panicked and ordered the correct stuff since then anyway lol So I built DVA Mk1 tonight and tested against 240v outlet. Reading on multimeter, set to 600V, was 328V. There was no change whether set to Normal or CDI (R1 bypass) Any thoughts on that?
A DVA will give you the peak voltage rather than an average, so I would say that is the reason for that result.
Thanks Stu, appreciated.
Geoff Walledge supposed to be 22 uF according to his first video?..