I've purchased one awhile ago to test my outboard $70 same deal, needed the part. And its a nice unit with good leads. I'm building one for my project in class. I've got a different schematic. If I understand your test your putting in 250v which is rms voltage. The peak voltage adapter is Vrms * 1.4142 in your case that should be a reading of 250* 1.4142 = 353.55 (give or take). put it in an electrical socket, remember use dc on meter and a 120 plug should read 168v. I'll get back OT
the guy in the shop suggested i use a 25v capacitor and the rest the same as yours . connected it all up today for less than a pound, not including the connector block, saving loads of dosh, annnnnd it works. ;)
I gues I should have mentioned...Trying to diagnose a no spark issue on a 1995 Johnson 50HP outboard motor... I have all the identical parts as your setup in the video except the cap says 33uf.... will this work?
I ordered all the parts you suggested but Radio shack sent me a 33 uf instead of the 2 uf I ordered...would that work? should I send it back???? thanks again for the video can't wait to try it out...
@goku569 Yes thanks mate, appreciate you putting your idea on the tube, works a treat and I have nine spare 450v caps... ha.. Took it for it's first run ' in my possesion' today goes like a shower of shit... 30mph scares me... Cheers
Hey, I made one of these yesterday with the materials above, and when I go to test the stator it seems like it takes forever to charge that capacitor. My starter is going to burn up waiting on the capacitor to charge. it SLOWLY gets a reading.
If I don't need to measure that much voltage can I use a smaller capacitor with the same other components. I think I don't need to measure more then 100v. Would a 22uf 200v capacitor work for me?
Totally want to build one of these. Can you please email me or something a list of the parts you used so I can go and buy this stuff? Radio shack a good location?
Hi Michael I am very interested in building this PVA as I am frugal as well. Would you be so kind as to send the schematic for it. I have a Honda CRF150 to fix. It has electrical issues and I need a PVA to trouble shoot. Regards Jamie
Just wondering if I can use the following in this circuit as this is all I could get at the local store: 47uf 450V capacitor 1mega Ohm 1/2 watt resistor 1 Amp 400V diode
How could an ignition fault cause an internal combustion engine to overheat? Low spark would cause a rich condition, and therefore a cooler running engine. Good on ya for making that PVA, nice work.
I had already replaced the impeller and cleaned all of the cooling passages in the head and block. I was grasping at straws at that point. My thought was that if the engine wasn’t firing on all cylinders, the impeller wouldn’t be working as efficiently, and therefore not pumping as much water as it should, resulting in overheat.
The manual from Honda ('02 VTX1800R) says the MINIMUM voltage from the ignition pulse generator needs to be 0.7volts. I measure it to be nearly 4.5v! Mind you I am reading at the plug where it comes out of the side case. The wiring between that plug and the ECM are damaged in the wiring harness. Imagine that! Somebody help me out please. I am in over my head!
So i decided to make one my self for checking my bikes, but the only hardware store that sells this kind of parts didnt have the exact same as you are using.. will this affect my reading ? i read in another thread that the 330ohms would help not to get a shock. im kind of new on this, will these work allright o i need to get the correct ones? Capacitor: 22mF 250v Resistor: 330ohms 1/2w Resistor: 1megaohm 1/2w diode: 3amp 600volts
You're gonna laugh... teasting showed something wrong with the timer base... lifted the flywheel BROKEN KEY.... I could have suspected that as it started great for the first startup then never again must have had a loose flywheel nut I'm guessing as there's no reason for it to break a key on startup. anyone lifting the flywheel those puller holes are 5/16 x 25tpi unf nothing on your outboard will fit... Brm brm.....
I hope you know how much this video has helped people over the years. Thank you so much!
I've purchased one awhile ago to test my outboard $70 same deal, needed the part. And its a nice unit with good leads. I'm building one for my project in class. I've got a different schematic. If I understand your test your putting in 250v which is rms voltage. The peak voltage adapter is Vrms * 1.4142 in your case that should be a reading of 250* 1.4142 = 353.55 (give or take). put it in an electrical socket, remember use dc on meter and a 120 plug should read 168v. I'll get back OT
This is very cool, I printed out the schematic to make one tonight to check the stator on outboard! Thanks!
the guy in the shop suggested i use a 25v capacitor and the rest the same as yours . connected it all up today for less than a pound, not including the connector block, saving loads of dosh, annnnnd it works. ;)
SCHEMATIC IS IN THE ORIGINAL POST.
No need to ask. :)
Thank you for this !!
@goku569 thanks for your quick reply, yes it's working ok. Thanks... engine now going. Thanks heaps for sharing. Cheers
Does the capacitor have to be 23 microfarads? Will any other work if not what else would need to be changed?
I gues I should have mentioned...Trying to diagnose a no spark issue on a 1995 Johnson 50HP outboard motor... I have all the identical parts as your setup in the video except the cap says 33uf.... will this work?
I ordered all the parts you suggested but Radio shack sent me a 33 uf instead of the 2 uf I ordered...would that work? should I send it back???? thanks again for the video can't wait to try it out...
G'day, Thanks for this, I could only get hold of a 20uf 400vac Cap.. it's for ac motors.. cost me seventeen bucks ha... I hope it works ... Cheers
@goku569 Yes thanks mate, appreciate you putting your idea on the tube, works a treat and I have nine spare 450v caps... ha.. Took it for it's first run ' in my possesion' today goes like a shower of shit... 30mph scares me... Cheers
Hey, I made one of these yesterday with the materials above, and when I go to test the stator it seems like it takes forever to charge that capacitor. My starter is going to burn up waiting on the capacitor to charge. it SLOWLY gets a reading.
If I don't need to measure that much voltage can I use a smaller capacitor with the same other components. I think I don't need to measure more then 100v. Would a 22uf 200v capacitor work for me?
Doesn't the Fluke 87 do what you need it to do???
+Michael Henderson OK I was thinking that. I can borrow one from our shop if it does the same. Or make one like you done.
That's exactly what I said.. peak min max. Lol
Totally want to build one of these. Can you please email me or something a list of the parts you used so I can go and buy this stuff? Radio shack a good location?
hey man can use this for any regular multimeter and test my mercury outboard ignition system ? thanks
Hi Michael
I am very interested in building this PVA as I am frugal as well. Would you be so kind as to send the schematic for it. I have a Honda CRF150 to fix. It has electrical issues and I need a PVA to trouble shoot.
Regards Jamie
Just wondering if I can use the following in this circuit as this is all I could get at the local store:
47uf 450V capacitor
1mega Ohm 1/2 watt resistor
1 Amp 400V diode
How could an ignition fault cause an internal combustion engine to overheat?
Low spark would cause a rich condition, and therefore a cooler running engine.
Good on ya for making that PVA, nice work.
I had already replaced the impeller and cleaned all of the cooling passages in the head and block. I was grasping at straws at that point. My thought was that if the engine wasn’t firing on all cylinders, the impeller wouldn’t be working as efficiently, and therefore not pumping as much water as it should, resulting in overheat.
Where the heck did you find a 22uf 400vdc capacitor that size?
The manual from Honda ('02 VTX1800R) says the MINIMUM voltage from the ignition pulse generator needs to be 0.7volts. I measure it to be nearly 4.5v!
Mind you I am reading at the plug where it comes out of the side case. The wiring between that plug and the ECM are damaged in the wiring harness. Imagine that!
Somebody help me out please. I am in over my head!
you can find it in a guitar ampifier store.
Where you get capacitator?
You just saved me about fifty bucks. Thanks!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
How can I get the schematics?
So i decided to make one my self for checking my bikes, but the only hardware store that sells this kind of parts didnt have the exact same as you are using.. will this affect my reading ? i read in another thread that the 330ohms would help not to get a shock. im kind of new on this, will these work allright o i need to get the correct ones?
Capacitor: 22mF 250v
Resistor: 330ohms 1/2w
Resistor: 1megaohm 1/2w
diode: 3amp 600volts
Want schematic
Bro,
Im guessing you know that a fluke 87 will do this test.
Hit the yellow button then peak min max.
You're gonna laugh... teasting showed something wrong with the timer base...
lifted the flywheel BROKEN KEY.... I could have suspected that as it started great for the first startup then never again must have had a loose flywheel nut I'm guessing as there's no reason for it to break a key on startup. anyone lifting the flywheel those puller holes are 5/16 x 25tpi unf nothing on your outboard will fit...
Brm brm.....