Most likely it was tipped over on its side and the oil leaked into the cylinder before they got it back onto its tracks , and they started the engine with out turning it over by hand and it hydraulically locked when they turned it over with the starter bending the rod . That would be my guess that why there is no evidence of valve damage or head gasket damage. Some don’t know that the motor oil will seep past the oil rings when the motor is on its side , they just lift the machine back onto it tracks and try starting it .And bang they bend a rod . The starter has a lot of power to do that kind of damage. Price out a cylinder kit and compare the cost because some times the cylinder kit is just a few dollars more than a single piston. Good luck and keep on giving her . Oh good video on what can be not so simple of a fix .
I think you're correct. If it were a contact issue with the valve, they'd be damaged and if it was fuel, the cylinder would be full now and no varnish on the cylinder wall.
Hydrolocked, like the crane Andrew tipped over sounds like a good possibility, but the injector definitely has a problem on #1, maybe causing excessive fuel to flood the cylinder. Put in a new rod, bearing and rings, lightly hone that cylinder if it mics ok and put it back together. Also, put in a new pushrod to replace the one that wasn't in right. It's got a wear line below the socket which is a possible fracture point. Best wishes!
@@ryy597 You can look for deals, but after you’ve been looking for a while, you’ll notice when something is “too good of a deal” compared to others on the market, those are the ones to avoid.
You got $2000 knocked off it. You are a master mechanic. Fix it and drive on. You could be a landscaper with zero engine knowledge, then you’d really be crying the blues. You should be thankful you got a problem child because it is a great episode. You got $2000 knocked off the price for a reason, and now you have an episode that is probably worth some good RUclips dollars. On top of it you are now an expert on your machine too! You are ahead in the game! Look forward to the next episode Jess.
$2,000 knocked off doesn't cover the labor and parts, bro. He'd have an episode if he sat there talking and spending NO money either. That's his pocketbook.
I work at a shop that rebuilds gasoline engines. I would say check the bearings. If they bearings look like they don’t have any wear on them then I see absolutely no reason to change the rest of the bearings or worry about the rods and pistons on the other 3 cylinders. My opinion would be replace that one rod and call it a day. I would get head checked before reinstalling it. I’ve had bent valves that looked closed all the way and weren’t seating because they were slightly bent. As far as what caused the issue I’m not sure. But I find it hard to believe it hit the valves and bent. Those valves are very small and if it hit one and bent it far enough I could see it but without any obvious piston damage or valve damage I doubt that bent the rod. Other guys said hydro lock from flipping on its side. Seems like that is most likely the cause. Great video.
Drop the pan, change the rod and reuse the bearings on the new rod. New piston and rings, hone the cylinder and put it back together. I'd say it got tipped forward down a hill and oil filled the front cylinder. Then hydrolocked it when the hourly help fired it back up. It's a lot of $ and time to fix now, but you'll make it back quick in a few small jobs. Plus, track machines in good running condition are hot now if you decide to cut bait once it's fixed.
I would say, just go for the new piston, rings, connecting rod, hone they cylinder, and if possible rod bearing. Clean the head, and make sure the valves are all seating properly still. Then run it. IF there is more wrong than that, you've lost nothing by doing this work. Even if the crank was bent, you'd have to pull then engine and get a replacement, or full rebuild. The way the engine sounds, I think you're going to be ok with just the repair. If there are people on here with experience rebuilding these engines, I'm sure they have more info to help you.
@@myk55501 - That can end up being a huge rabbit hole though. I've done things like that, and it adds up faster than you realize. Just fix what needs to be fixed, and get it back into service. I'm guessing the issue started with the valves loosening up, then with them not opening up, and the injector still firing, it caused a hydro lock, and bent the connecting rod, which won't have done the rod bearing any favors either. Being a diesel, the crank "should" be considerably stronger than the connecting rods, and therefore "should" be fine. Replace piston, connecting rod, rings and bearing. replace the valve locking nuts to stop them from loosening up and run it. Just my 2 cents
@@myk55501 I certainly see the point with people who bandaid things as cheaply as possible. And I guess in some areas, you have no competition and youre the only game in town. But where I'm from, if you bring leaking, patched up junk to a jobsite and it breaks down. You are replaced by the next guy in short order. Contract or no contract. I repair machines properly. It keeps them making you money and your reputation in tact. This is the chance you take when your focus is purchasing the cheapest most abused machine you can find. Camerata does the same thing but I guess it works for him. Wouldn't work in other states. But this guy makes some of tge best videos around. No question. I look forward to watching round 2.
@@giggiddy You know when Camerata has a break down the show is about to get good. ("It just broke for no reason") I still can't believe he removed that starter from his D4 with a prybar.
Dude... I couldn't walk away from the video.... waiting to see the cause of the problem. Very captivating process. Can't wait for the long follow-up video. Bravo sir.
This quality video, with you walking through the diagnosis, beats two weeks of turn-key projects. Yes, it's no fun for you but viewers benefit from seeing the fabrication and ingenuity involved.
Hi Jesse, i'm no engineer but i have been around bikes, cars, trucks and buses for most of my 81years. Your video explains exactly what you are doing here and i find it very easy to understand what you are doing. Thank you for showing us what you are doing, its very interesting. Love those tracked skid steers, amazing machines. Uncle Bob. NZ (Old soldier, old highway cop).
Hydraulik lock by tipping the machine over and start it without draining the cylinders. So they bend the pushrod of that cylinder. A lot of work but with your skills possible to repair. I am sure that you can fix it and then have a reliable machine. Your a good guy and it is always a pleasure to watch your videos. Fingers crossed for your repair ✌️🇩🇪
I always like how you show and explain your thinking. It is a bummer that you have to do the fix, but you can and that is a lot more than others would do. They would have to take it to a repair shop and pay big bucks in labor. I can't say which route you should take to fix it but I look forward toy your next video. I am extremely happy I found your channel!
Jesse, I am no mechanic, but I am a believer that "while you are in there" go ahead and do it right. Nothing could be worse than having to go back in and replace more parts. I will see your decision in the next video. Have good days!
Jesse, a few things from this nightmare.. For one, put that bridge guide on your trophy shelf bro! I was holding my breath on that one! Those small victories feel so good! Second as many have commented, the motor was probably hydro locked at some point bending the rod. I say that because at work we had a high school helper that thought it would be funny to fill the exhaust with water on our Kubota mower so he could "spray" another kid while cranking it up.... well guess what?? a bent rod on a mower that had barely 200 hours on it! Same symptoms you have and only lost maybe an eighth inch of stroke on that one. Missing and white smoke.. Replaced the one rod and she's running like a champ. Same piston and rings. I believe some gaskets and a new rod will get 'er choochin' on all 4 again! Maybe see if you can install the manifolds on the head before installing to possibly make it easier on you, heavier, but maybe easier.. Amazing how little of a stroke change on those little diesels can goof them up! Good luck buddy!
yea I am thinking the machine was tipped and sat for a while. seems the most plausible. I took the piston out today and it was indeed a bent rod but to make it worse, there is a good size chunk missing out of the bottom of that cylinder wall. its still a good inch away from where the rings would be at the lowest point. I think im just gonna send it and put a new rod in and see how it holds up. as a youtube experiment
Alright @Jesse Muller - here's what (I think) happened. Fuel filter removed at some point let BS thru the line. The #1 injector got clogged/stuck - it leaked bad and put enough diesel liquid in the cyl that at a start up or rev up, the piston pushed up and tried to compress the liquid which aint happenin (we all know this - oil too). The liquid pressure forced the exhaust valve closed at the wrong time causing the breakage of the valve bridge. At the same moment, the rod had to bend since the diesel liquid cant be compressed. (could have happened from oil in a rollover as well) By a miracle it semi-ran for a little bit. If you didn't stop and work on it... the engine would likely be a total loss. Please have the injectors cleaned and flow tested. Notice you can see the spray pattern from them, but that varnish on the side of the cyl wall makes me concerned that its still not spraying properly.
Spend the money on a full engine rebuild, fresh motor on that machine and your good to go for 10 years or more, you will make it all back 10 x's on future jobs. great video
Great job on that miniature puller you made to get that broken pin out! I didn't think that would be possible but thanks to you I have a new tool in my mental toolbox! Great job on everything else as well!
So ... when the seller told you _"it needs all new filters"_ - what he *_meant_* to say is the fuel filter system is completely disabled/bypassed/removed/gone. To-may-toe, to-mah-toe. 🤣
I eco C.A. Ryan. I am a Mechanic and Ryan is spot on. You have two options the way I see it. Budget build or full rebuild. Minimum I would do is: replace bent rod, hone all cylinders and replace rings on all pistons. Clean and inspect all pistons, big end bearings and maybe pull a couple of main caps to inspect bearings.....replace as required. If it ant broke don't replace it. Now you said you found a newer and better machine......keep an eye out and eventually buy one and sell this one. This machine will come up good with a budget rebuild. That's my 2 cents worth..old video so I will now watch your next few on this machine and see what you did to fix it. cheers Stew.
Jesse, I would have gone for a 5-hour video. You are so amazing in how resourceful and brave you are. I look forward to seeing your next episode of repairing the track loader. I'm sure that with all the effort you're putting into this, you will get a good return, even if it isn't exactly financially. I'm confident in you. 😆
The scene of the extraction at 28:20 was like watching castaway when he was trying to start a fire. Awesome work dude you put in maximum effort and are an incredible mechanic, gettin things done!!!
Watched this the other day. Came back to like and comment on it after logging in. Brilliant work, Jesse. You're a crafty fellow. Look forward to the next installment on this loader... and upcoming house build videos, when you have more updates.
Jesse, bite the bullet, fix and use it. You bought it the way it was. Mate you have the skills to repair it and trouble shoot any problems that may arise. When its fixed at least you will know how good it is. While you have it apart I would replace what is needed and get it back together and get it working. The down side is it needs repairing, the upside is you have the skills to repair it. Love the vids. Bravo from Victoria Australia
At some point with skid steers it's worth just yanking the engine. I'd say you're getting close to that point. Nice job on the diagnostics. I definitely know the feeling of losing sleep over something like this, and also not wanting to wait on a tool to ship to find out what's going on
@@nb117 I can still understand trying to do an economical repair, but still likely easier to pull the engine. At some point I'm sure Jesse realized that.
Jesse I'm not a mechanic and would sure not advise you on what to do. Like you said you rolled the dice, and it is what it is. I sure admire your ability to work on this equipment and analyze engine performance. At this point you have no choice but to keep going and fix the engine. For my two cents I would fix the one cylinder and take my chances on the rest of the engine being ok. I think the odds are in your favor of the engine being ok. A non-mechanic perspective. Nice job on the close-up video recording. It looks like it will be a good machine once you get it back together. I hope you get the same perspective from other viewers with the necessary knowledge. Nice call on seeing the difference between the two cylinders. I wonder how many others would have missed this clue.
Great resilience Jesse, it looks like someone has been tampering with the machine. I'd personally replace the con rod and piston only within that cylinder. You've just done 5 grands worth of work on that machine. I'd be asking the seller for some cash back
@aw services Yeah, I kinda agree EXCEPT - it was disclosed it was "not running right" and "low power". The smoke is clearly visible. Jesse should have walked/looked more thoroughly/ offered 10k. These things happen. Jesse has a better attitude than most of us would!
Good video. Tracking down the culprit. And amazingly, as aggravated as you must have been at times, no cussing, no yelling at the kids, and no complaining about the camera being in your way. It is still puzzling that disconnecting the injector made no difference.
Really glad you kept at it and fixed it to the point of "let's see how it goes". I think you are a natural mechanic knowing when to dig deeper. Nice work.
My father always taught me if you’re going to get into something and start working on it finish it right. He’d probably recommend going through it all the way. I don’t think that’s always necessary. Given what this machine‘s put you through already though I would probably close the door on it by finishing it right. If the cylinder walls aren’t damaged I would hone them. I would definitely have the head gone through clean the seats up etc. anyways you’re a hell of a mechanic. It’ll be fun watching what you do.
Tech for Deere here, awesome video, been thinking about doing this kinda thing with the skid steers, tractors and dozers I work on. At our shop I would quote out a full rebuild to the customer since the motors gonna have to be pulled anyways, if it were me in your position I’d probably do rod bearings, piston arms, pistons and rings and let her ride on. Like I said cool video, can’t wait for a part 2 👍🏻🤘🏼
evidently alot of people really like these repair videos. anything diesel gets alot of attention. I really am not sure why but it works out good for the projects I have coming up
I'm praying for you man. I hope the seller sees this video and his conscience makes him try to make it good. If he doesn't, then just don't ever give him any more of your business and warn your friends too.
If it were me, at this point before I did any more work on this motor I would price out a good used motor. You still would have to actually examine the bottom end to determine the full extent of the damage and you might still find spaghetti crankshaft. Minimum a new rod and rings, and bearings.
I would do exactly what you’re thinking. Drop the pan, replace piston/rings, replace rod and hone it. I would pop off the bearing caps to check the condition of the bearings while the pan is off and replace if needed. I’m a firm believer that a piece of equipment or vehicle needs to “earn its keep” before dropping a ton of money into it. At this point you’ve touched all the rusty bolts and crossed that bridge, so if you need to revisit something in a year or 2 after it makes you money at least it will be a lot easier.
Yes exactly. A machine needs to earn its keep before it gets all kinds of attention and the rusted out exhaust bolts were the hardest thing I had fo do so taking the head out again will be a breeze. These are exactly what I was thinking
But the way machinery prices are going (it’s a new game) for every dollar you put into it, with your ability, you are going to get five times that back in sale value. Way better than money in the bank. Do it right, use the hell out of it, and sell it for a profit. @@jmuller86
Good job extracting the broken part. Honestly, I didn't expect the drill to even cut it much less the tap. Looks really hard. Bummer on the bent rod. Yes, I would be suspicious of the rings in that cylinder.
"im selling it cheap cause it doesnt run well, it just needs filters though" how can someone say that stuff with a straight face.. if that were the case theyd put the filters on it and double the price.. no ones throwing 6 grand away to spite 30 minutes work and 300$ in filters same kind of person who says something just needs a battery and when you show up with a good battery to fit the excuses start rolling out and they curse you off the property as if you were the one trying to rip them off
@@jheissjr yeah i made that comment at the start of the video, but i was refering to them throwing away the price difference between a fully functional machine vs one that needs attention, 17k was alot to pay for it with a missfire, machine is probably only worth 22k working good, he can do the repairs himself though he'll be into it for less than 22k when its working properly just out a bit of time
Yeah, you really need the full story (all be it as a mechanic I still have yet for that to actually happen) it sometimes is just as simple as they are an operator and have no mechanical knowledge whatsoever only basic maintenance. I can certainly agree that the majority of the time people are just straight up greedy and it is generally good practice to just avoid it. Sometimes you get lucky though.
I always love the market place listings like that, “selling for a low price because it needs these 3 simple things. If it doesn’t sell I will fix it and the price will go up!
Amazing deductive skills, persistence and methodical patience ! Even with $17,000 at stake, it is an impressive testament to your awesome abilities ! Bravo ! BTW, I watched Part 2 before Part 1, and learned the answer early, but I wanted to find out how you got to the answer !
Jesse!! I am very impressed every time I watch your videos and especially with how professional, knowledgeable and thorough you are in the trades. From one former Adirondack boy to another, you are a very hard worker! Please continue documenting your talents so that I can watch the work and spy a few glances of the Adirondack woodlands in the background.
@@jmuller86 Your'e in the Adirondacks? For some reason I always thought you were down in the Catskills near Andrew. I guess I came to that conclusion because of the work you did on his container castle.
@@jmuller86 Gotcha, I grew up sorta between the Catskills and the Adirondacks. east of Albany near the Mass & Vt borders.Actually born in the Berkshires because the hospital in Pittsfield Mass was the closest one. I left NY years ago and still miss some things about it but not enough to ever move back.
Excellent videography and sound… felt like we were leaning over your shoulder and watching. What a job - you have meticulous skill and attention detail.
I would have to agree with what Colin stated. At the beginning of the video, My husband stated it had a lot to do with the injector. Some smart thinking with the homemade puller. With all that you have done in the years that I have been watching, not too much surprises me anymore, and always enjoy the videos. Like Andrew, your amazing, at the skills you have and are teaching your older son, on and off, and all that you have been learning along the way, and the patience for it all. Looking forward to the next part of this video and others in the future.
Late to the game on this video but that extraction technique was amazing and I know sometime in the next few decades it's going to come back into my mind and save me. On to watch part 2 now!
Looks like you are going through allot of trouble getting that skid steer engine fixed. But having to work outside, you are doing a hell of a good job finding and fixing things. I know you will get it working well. You are good at DIY stuff. Your videos are superb, and you don't have your face in the camera most of the time like some other You Tude videos are. It will be nice when you get your garage built and finished out with all your tools and equipment to make it easier to work on your equipment. I know that skid steer will run top notch when you get it done. 😃
Feel for you, I know it is a bunch of unplanned work ahead for you, but look on the bright side, I get to enjoy another video with you making it work. Thank you, really enjoy your videos. Looking forward to more work on your house too.
I’d check everything b 4 putting it back on. That’s b 4 replacing the entire thing, make sure there’s no cracks, scratches or anything. But if you do find something wrong it least you know what to replace it with. You’re very talented in fixing things Jesse. Keep up the great work as well.
Jesse, Think of it this way, when you’re done fixing it you’ll know it’s great work and will last your lifetime! Hope you can get all the attachments, like Andrew has!
great video. I feel bad about your troubles but what a reward sharing what you did and learned. You have no idea how this helps the guys out here that don't know zip, like me! I am wanting a tracked skid steer and learning all I can about the possible issues from you and all the other guys on youtube that deal with them is a great treasure. I hope it all goes well and you make many times what you paid for this machine back with the work you can do with it.
Kudos for your patience and determination. Seems like we're always trying to measure whether or not we get a good deal trying to create the expectation during the transactions. You are so very blessed to have that drive, knowledge and experience with determination to fix it. Experience can be the best teacher of all. I'm done with purchasing something because it seems like a good deal And have walked away from two tractors which were ridiculously low priced. No regrets! whatsoever!
Jesse, absolutely love this video. I have an older Case skid steer sitting in my shop. it has been a number of years since it has had any major service done on it. I have already ID'd that I will be replacing seals in all of the hydraulic rams. Have to repair a couple of the seals leading out to the tires. I have some kind of leak of hydraulic oil down by the main pump - so will be taking many of the lines out to inspect them and replace what needs it. Lastly, I will be taking the head off the engine in this unit because I fear it too has a blown seal. So, I am really enjoying watching what you are doing - It is priming me up for what I will have to do.
Wow, you really pushed on through every problem, great video. I think between you and Andrew, you are responsible for 99% of the "I had to weld a nut on" videos on YT 😸
Great bit of work Jessie, hopefully you get away with just replacing one con rod, as you say there was no knocking so hopefully no other damage to the crank. Wishing you all the luck with it.
Really enjoyed video and your clarity and diagnostics were brilliant. Sorry that it is a bit more trouble than you thought it would be but am really looking forward to the next video. The comments are really interesting. You have good, wise and articulate followers. Thanks.
Gosh what a bummer Jesse, but I know you will get it straightened out, after analyzing everything and without hearing a knock in the bottom end I’m thinking someone tipped it over which filled the cylinder with oil, then after they turned it back over they tried starting it and bent the rod. I would just hone the cylinder or a new sleeve if possible, get a new rod and piston and put it back together and call it done. But before doing that mic the other cylinders first and determine off that I’d also pull the other pistons and at least put new rings on them. Best of luck my friend we are all cheering you on!
I have the tl130 exact same machine same motor... I bought it with a blown motor it hydro locked on cylinder 1 same ss yours but much worse. Make sure you check the bottom of the cylinder wall it will break a chunk out. Also do not use any other head gasket than yanmar if you do you will be sorry. I changed one rod and the piston but bought a new block thru alibaba. It was 3000 dollars cheaper. Glad to give you any help if I can great video.
thats funny that you say that about the bottom of the cylinder wall. mine does have a chunk missing. but its a good 1/2" below the lowest ring when the piston is bottom dead center. I am just gonna put a new connecting rod in and send it. I figure I dont have much to loose, if it trashes the block then it was already trashed anyways. Taking it apart the second time I could do it in a half day. Did that block from Alibaba work for you? I was looking at a bunch of them for like $2500 but coming from china, didnt want to take a chance. I will just send it for now and if it bends a rod again I will get a new block
@@jmuller86 yeah it worked great and I had from China on 3 days. My machine had 1800 hrs so the rest of the motor was in great shape. They are great motors they either last forever or die young lol. Good luck I'll be watching. If I can help be glad to.
I was ecstatic at the beginning of the video because I have been waiting on you to add a CTL to the fleet for a quite a while now, but by the end of it I was wore slap out from all the drama and suspense this purchase has brought you! I was proud to see that extraction! It has definitely been said in the past that you are incredibly patient and resilient and it still holds true. I’m sorry you missed-out on the deal that came just after that purchase, but honestly I believe the whole situation is gonna work out down the road. You do a great job no matter what it is that you do brother. Keep on gettin’ after it!
Hey Jesse, is it me or does almost every tooth on that flywheel (if that is what you were rotating) cracked, chipped or almost broken? Any man that can be a master electrician, builder, transmission repair, diesel mechanic, concrete work, and drive a semi-truck is truly a genius.
A lot of flywheel ring gears are cut in a way that would appear they are maybe “chipped” but instead it’s to help the starter gear slide into place when it’s spinning really fast and possibly not aligned. I noticed it too, and for a second thought the same thing but quickly realized they were factory teeth cuts
That is the flywheel. The marks looked consistent with each tooth and looked like they were machined to allow the bendix on the starter to sync/engage with the flywheel. I think if it were worn, the marks would be inconsistent and you'd see shiny spots. An engine is only going to stop in a certain number of positions, so the starter will always be engaging and making contact in the same spots.
@@okiekidd6091 glad I could help. If you wanted to get a good image of what the bevel cuts really look like you can google “Detroit 53 series flywheel ring gear” or Detroit 71 series flywheel ring gear”. The bevel cuts on those are very pronounced. Of course the cuts are only on one side so not all pictures will show them
Bought a TL130 at auction, non-runner, 3300 hrs, practically new tracks, $8k. Surprisingly the battery charged. Would not get fuel to start. Put it on a temporary tank to start. Fuel problem was completely clogged fuel line elbow on fuel line at bottom of tank. Supposedly a common problem on TL-130s. After starting it had a bad knock. Sounded like it was in the top end not the bottom end. It smoked and had bad smell, it would burn your eyes being around it. Pulled the injectors and had them rebuilt. Still knocked. Pulled the head, bad news, could pull the #1 piston up and down. Pulled the engine. #1 rod bearing completely gone, crankshaft ruined. Got a Chinese bottom end rebuild kit (crankshaft, rods, main bearings, rod bearings, and gaskets) for around $800. Pistons looked good, still had crosshatch on cylinder walls. Re-honed the cylinders and put it back together. Ran it for about 30 minutes and had a bad oil leak and was blowing air into the coolant. I knew exactly what was causing the oil leak. I had damaged the rear seal putting it in. My fault, I was getting impatient. Pulled the engine again, replaced the rear seal. Looked at the head gasket real close and it looked like inferior quality. But had the head checked for cracks and being warped. No cracks and not warped enough to really matter but milled flat anyway. Bought a quality head gasket and put it back together and installed AGAIN. Runs fine, starts really well. Notes: Engine is a real trick to pull because there is a frame cross member just above the engine, very little room to get the engine in and out. Had to have the head off the engine to remove and install the engine. Get a good quality head gasket. I’m not sure that I like the double metal gaskets but that was all I could find. This whole problem was caused by a stripped out oil pan plug and since it was a contractor machine no body was taking care of it and they ran it out of oil.
17 Grand?!?! My God I didn't think those tractors where that expensive. 17 Grand for somebody else's problems. I totally feel for you bro. But thank you for the video though, it's pretty cool getting away from the auto repair and watching some tractor work. Hopefully you can get it up a running good again. Can't wait for part 2!
Hello Jesse!!!! It is always such a great learning experience watching your videos Brother. My best wishes to you & your beautiful family!!! Your friend Larry C
Getting that broken stud/guide out was impressive! Clever getting the shaving from drilling out with a magnet. Could have also taped up the whole section except for a 3/8 hole for the drilling, like they do surgeries if you know what I mean - I know, easy to say when watching :D But really I was sitting at the edge of my seat watching that :p
I Think just go for a new piston, rings, connecting rod, hone they cylinder, and rod bearing. Clean the head, and make sure the valves are all seating properly still. Then run it. it should be fine. i still think you got a good tracked skid steer, to use on your job's and for your self. can't wait for the next video. and i am glad to see you doing a video again, it has been a while. take care.
I have done exactly what you are talking about on many diesels, for different reasons, but it will work. I would not hone it out unless I did all 4 cylinders. Replace what you need to and get to work, it was not knocking! Hope the best
I bought a TCL 80 (big brother of yours) from an auction in NY a few years ago. Paid 20k flat. Always thought that I got too tied up in bid pride but I feel better about it now. It's been a good beast but cold hearted in winter. Don't know if you mentioned this but these Gehls are Takeuchis with a layer of yellow paint and Gehl decals. That's not a bad thing.
I thought i was a handy guy, x machinist, auto body and mechanic...but you are one very smart, adaptable and patient guy.... Love this channel and was looking forward to a build, but this is better... Stay positive...
Jesse I hope that you are right and it won’t cost to much to fix. I always enjoy your videos. I wish they did not come with so much stress for you. Good luck.
Jesse, I had the exact same problem on a diesel car, it had dropped a valve and put a hole in the top of the piston destroying the cylinder head, I found the crank shaft had been bent rather than the conrod, but that showed in vibration when the engine was running. The conrod had managed to stay straight. So, I would check the crank and the little end of the conrod/piston, as I think the conrod would survive better than the crank.
At this point, the logical thing to do is rebuild the motor complete. Pull it out, get crank checked, hone cylinders, replace rod, bearings, rings - you will have new engine and the machine will last for many years. Put in the work, put in the money.
I dont mind spending money to make it right but I just dont have the time to take the block out, clean it up, send it out etc. I think I will just put the rod in and see if it lasts, if it doesnt then I will probably just get a reman. I wouldnt mind doing a tear down but I have so many other machines/vehicles/trailers to fix on top of building my house
@@jmuller86 Appreciate the reply. I hope you don't spend as much time band-aiding it as you would have to rebuild it. Like the saying goes -"how come we have time to do it over but not the time to do it right?" Good Luck with it!
If it was mine, and after you remove the lower access plate there's plenty of room I'd pull the pan, yank the rod and piston from that hole. Then inspect the piston for damage. Those diesel pistons are tough by design, and are hard to kill. If it's ok, hone it with a bead hone, check the ring end gaps of new rings and if it's within spec install a new rod, bearing and the old piston and let it eat. If the crank journal is fubar or the piston is damaged then adapt accordingly. Good luck brother, I'll check out the next video to see how she goes.
I have nothing to add but it was very informative and interesting! A lot of videos I fast forward to something more informative but I watched every second and thanks good narration….something to strive for on my videos.
Most likely it was tipped over on its side and the oil leaked into the cylinder before they got it back onto its tracks , and they started the engine with out turning it over by hand and it hydraulically locked when they turned it over with the starter bending the rod . That would be my guess that why there is no evidence of valve damage or head gasket damage. Some don’t know that the motor oil will seep past the oil rings when the motor is on its side , they just lift the machine back onto it tracks and try starting it .And bang they bend a rod . The starter has a lot of power to do that kind of damage. Price out a cylinder kit and compare the cost because some times the cylinder kit is just a few dollars more than a single piston. Good luck and keep on giving her . Oh good video on what can be not so simple of a fix .
I think you're correct. If it were a contact issue with the valve, they'd be damaged and if it was fuel, the cylinder would be full now and no varnish on the cylinder wall.
I agree that it must have been hydro-locked. If a valve had hit, the valve and the piston would have been noticeably damaged.
your probley exactly rite .. good call
True or alot of starting fluid. I had a few kubota crack rings from using either.
Hydrolocked, like the crane Andrew tipped over sounds like a good possibility, but the injector definitely has a problem on #1, maybe causing excessive fuel to flood the cylinder. Put in a new rod, bearing and rings, lightly hone that cylinder if it mics ok and put it back together. Also, put in a new pushrod to replace the one that wasn't in right. It's got a wear line below the socket which is a possible fracture point. Best wishes!
What a bummer on a good deal that turned out to be a whole lot of hassle- amazing mechanical skills and troubleshooting
Sadly that’s usually why it was a “deal”
Its sad but it happens 99% of the time. Thats why i dont look for deals anymore. If it sounds too good to be true, it likely is.
@@stedder8436 nbnnn
@@ryy597 You can look for deals, but after you’ve been looking for a while, you’ll notice when something is “too good of a deal” compared to others on the market, those are the ones to avoid.
@@ryy597 yep. People aren’t stupid for the most part and most people have the internet
That pin extraction was masterful! I sat on the edge of my seat :)
I was a bit skeptical but..''he who dares.....''
You got $2000 knocked off it. You are a master mechanic. Fix it and drive on. You could be a landscaper with zero engine knowledge, then you’d really be crying the blues. You should be thankful you got a problem child because it is a great episode. You got $2000 knocked off the price for a reason, and now you have an episode that is probably worth some good RUclips dollars. On top of it you are now an expert on your machine too!
You are ahead in the game! Look forward to the next episode Jess.
$2,000 knocked off doesn't cover the labor and parts, bro. He'd have an episode if he sat there talking and spending NO money either. That's his pocketbook.
Good mechanic. Great filming. Still think it was worth it.
I was impressed watching that homemade puller 👍🏻
I work at a shop that rebuilds gasoline engines. I would say check the bearings. If they bearings look like they don’t have any wear on them then I see absolutely no reason to change the rest of the bearings or worry about the rods and pistons on the other 3 cylinders. My opinion would be replace that one rod and call it a day. I would get head checked before reinstalling it. I’ve had bent valves that looked closed all the way and weren’t seating because they were slightly bent. As far as what caused the issue I’m not sure. But I find it hard to believe it hit the valves and bent. Those valves are very small and if it hit one and bent it far enough I could see it but without any obvious piston damage or valve damage I doubt that bent the rod. Other guys said hydro lock from flipping on its side. Seems like that is most likely the cause.
Great video.
Your ingenuity and patience know no bounds. Awesome job on the puller.
Drop the pan, change the rod and reuse the bearings on the new rod. New piston and rings, hone the cylinder and put it back together. I'd say it got tipped forward down a hill and oil filled the front cylinder. Then hydrolocked it when the hourly help fired it back up.
It's a lot of $ and time to fix now, but you'll make it back quick in a few small jobs. Plus, track machines in good running condition are hot now if you decide to cut bait once it's fixed.
Sux they knew it was junk when they sold it to him...
I would say, just go for the new piston, rings, connecting rod, hone they cylinder, and if possible rod bearing. Clean the head, and make sure the valves are all seating properly still. Then run it. IF there is more wrong than that, you've lost nothing by doing this work. Even if the crank was bent, you'd have to pull then engine and get a replacement, or full rebuild. The way the engine sounds, I think you're going to be ok with just the repair. If there are people on here with experience rebuilding these engines, I'm sure they have more info to help you.
it sure sounds nice even running on three
@@myk55501 - That can end up being a huge rabbit hole though. I've done things like that, and it adds up faster than you realize. Just fix what needs to be fixed, and get it back into service. I'm guessing the issue started with the valves loosening up, then with them not opening up, and the injector still firing, it caused a hydro lock, and bent the connecting rod, which won't have done the rod bearing any favors either. Being a diesel, the crank "should" be considerably stronger than the connecting rods, and therefore "should" be fine. Replace piston, connecting rod, rings and bearing. replace the valve locking nuts to stop them from loosening up and run it. Just my 2 cents
@@myk55501 I certainly see the point with people who bandaid things as cheaply as possible. And I guess in some areas, you have no competition and youre the only game in town. But where I'm from, if you bring leaking, patched up junk to a jobsite and it breaks down. You are replaced by the next guy in short order. Contract or no contract. I repair machines properly. It keeps them making you money and your reputation in tact. This is the chance you take when your focus is purchasing the cheapest most abused machine you can find. Camerata does the same thing but I guess it works for him. Wouldn't work in other states. But this guy makes some of tge best videos around. No question. I look forward to watching round 2.
@@giggiddy You know when Camerata has a break down the show is about to get good. ("It just broke for no reason") I still can't believe he removed that starter from his D4 with a prybar.
@@benjamingirard339 lol. Soooo true. If Camerata bought new equipment, he'd have no channel! Cheers
Dude... I couldn't walk away from the video.... waiting to see the cause of the problem. Very captivating process. Can't wait for the long follow-up video. Bravo sir.
This quality video, with you walking through the diagnosis, beats two weeks of turn-key projects. Yes, it's no fun for you but viewers benefit from seeing the fabrication and ingenuity involved.
Hi Jesse, i'm no engineer but i have been around bikes, cars, trucks and buses for most of my 81years. Your video explains exactly what you are doing here and i find it very easy to understand what you are doing. Thank you for showing us what you are doing, its very interesting. Love those tracked skid steers, amazing machines. Uncle Bob. NZ (Old soldier, old highway cop).
Pretty clever gettin that broken piece out Jesse, good job.
Hydraulik lock by tipping the machine over and start it without draining the cylinders. So they bend the pushrod of that cylinder. A lot of work but with your skills possible to repair. I am sure that you can fix it and then have a reliable machine. Your a good guy and it is always a pleasure to watch your videos. Fingers crossed for your repair ✌️🇩🇪
Bent rod = hydro locked, diesel fuel filled the cylinder, bent rod when it started. Have all the injectors rebuilt or replace.
Yep injectors, also a dripping injector will eventually burn a hole in the piston.
That's not from a bad injector. That machine has been flooded at one time.
buyer beware i guess....i'd of run away as soon as i heard that miss
@@Jeremy-iv9bc no chance. machine rolled, filled front piston with oil
I always like how you show and explain your thinking. It is a bummer that you have to do the fix, but you can and that is a lot more than others would do. They would have to take it to a repair shop and pay big bucks in labor. I can't say which route you should take to fix it but I look forward toy your next video. I am extremely happy I found your channel!
I am not the least bit mechanical, watching you repair/fabricate is extremely enjoyable
Give it a good jet wash 👍 & sort that crappy fuel line that you found out the 1st time. Good video 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Jesse, I am no mechanic, but I am a believer that "while you are in there" go ahead and do it right. Nothing could be worse than having to go back in and replace more parts. I will see your decision in the next video. Have good days!
I've watched so many of your videos and your inner calm and resourcefulness are impressive.
How you pulled out that guide was genious!
Jesse, a few things from this nightmare.. For one, put that bridge guide on your trophy shelf bro! I was holding my breath on that one! Those small victories feel so good! Second as many have commented, the motor was probably hydro locked at some point bending the rod. I say that because at work we had a high school helper that thought it would be funny to fill the exhaust with water on our Kubota mower so he could "spray" another kid while cranking it up.... well guess what?? a bent rod on a mower that had barely 200 hours on it! Same symptoms you have and only lost maybe an eighth inch of stroke on that one. Missing and white smoke.. Replaced the one rod and she's running like a champ. Same piston and rings. I believe some gaskets and a new rod will get 'er choochin' on all 4 again! Maybe see if you can install the manifolds on the head before installing to possibly make it easier on you, heavier, but maybe easier.. Amazing how little of a stroke change on those little diesels can goof them up!
Good luck buddy!
yea I am thinking the machine was tipped and sat for a while. seems the most plausible. I took the piston out today and it was indeed a bent rod but to make it worse, there is a good size chunk missing out of the bottom of that cylinder wall. its still a good inch away from where the rings would be at the lowest point. I think im just gonna send it and put a new rod in and see how it holds up. as a youtube experiment
@@jmuller86 sounds like a plan. I think you'll be fine.
Alright @Jesse Muller - here's what (I think) happened. Fuel filter removed at some point let BS thru the line. The #1 injector got clogged/stuck - it leaked bad and put enough diesel liquid in the cyl that at a start up or rev up, the piston pushed up and tried to compress the liquid which aint happenin (we all know this - oil too). The liquid pressure forced the exhaust valve closed at the wrong time causing the breakage of the valve bridge. At the same moment, the rod had to bend since the diesel liquid cant be compressed. (could have happened from oil in a rollover as well) By a miracle it semi-ran for a little bit. If you didn't stop and work on it... the engine would likely be a total loss. Please have the injectors cleaned and flow tested. Notice you can see the spray pattern from them, but that varnish on the side of the cyl wall makes me concerned that its still not spraying properly.
I think you've got it right, very logical.
Very impressive extraction - I was waiting for the threaded rod to strip.....
Spend the money on a full engine rebuild, fresh motor on that machine and your good to go for 10 years or more, you will make it all back 10 x's on future jobs. great video
Great job on that miniature puller you made to get that broken pin out! I didn't think that would be possible but thanks to you I have a new tool in my mental toolbox! Great job on everything else as well!
thanks
So ... when the seller told you _"it needs all new filters"_ - what he *_meant_* to say is the fuel filter system is completely disabled/bypassed/removed/gone. To-may-toe, to-mah-toe. 🤣
I eco C.A. Ryan. I am a Mechanic and Ryan is spot on. You have two options the way I see it. Budget build or full rebuild. Minimum I would do is: replace bent rod, hone all cylinders and replace rings on all pistons. Clean and inspect all pistons, big end bearings and maybe pull a couple of main caps to inspect bearings.....replace as required. If it ant broke don't replace it. Now you said you found a newer and better machine......keep an eye out and eventually buy one and sell this one. This machine will come up good with a budget rebuild. That's my 2 cents worth..old video so I will now watch your next few on this machine and see what you did to fix it. cheers Stew.
Jesse, I would have gone for a 5-hour video. You are so amazing in how resourceful and brave you are. I look forward to seeing your next episode of repairing the track loader. I'm sure that with all the effort you're putting into this, you will get a good return, even if it isn't exactly financially. I'm confident in you. 😆
The scene of the extraction at 28:20 was like watching castaway when he was trying to start a fire. Awesome work dude you put in maximum effort and are an incredible mechanic, gettin things done!!!
Watched this the other day. Came back to like and comment on it after logging in. Brilliant work, Jesse. You're a crafty fellow. Look forward to the next installment on this loader... and upcoming house build videos, when you have more updates.
Jesse, bite the bullet, fix and use it. You bought it the way it was. Mate you have the skills to repair it and trouble shoot any problems that may arise. When its fixed at least you will know how good it is. While you have it apart I would replace what is needed and get it back together and get it working. The down side is it needs repairing, the upside is you have the skills to repair it. Love the vids. Bravo from Victoria Australia
At some point with skid steers it's worth just yanking the engine. I'd say you're getting close to that point. Nice job on the diagnostics. I definitely know the feeling of losing sleep over something like this, and also not wanting to wait on a tool to ship to find out what's going on
Yup said the same thing. Just rebuild it and be done with it.
@@nb117 I can still understand trying to do an economical repair, but still likely easier to pull the engine. At some point I'm sure Jesse realized that.
U Da Man JM - you now have $10k in knowledge you did not have b4 + a great attitude
Jesse I'm not a mechanic and would sure not advise you on what to do. Like you said you rolled the dice, and it is what it is. I sure admire your ability to work on this equipment and analyze engine performance. At this point you have no choice but to keep going and fix the engine. For my two cents I would fix the one cylinder and take my chances on the rest of the engine being ok. I think the odds are in your favor of the engine being ok. A non-mechanic perspective. Nice job on the close-up video recording. It looks like it will be a good machine once you get it back together. I hope you get the same perspective from other viewers with the necessary knowledge. Nice call on seeing the difference between the two cylinders. I wonder how many others would have missed this clue.
I love these videos and your honesty about cost of equipment and repairs.
Great resilience Jesse, it looks like someone has been tampering with the machine. I'd personally replace the con rod and piston only within that cylinder.
You've just done 5 grands worth of work on that machine. I'd be asking the seller for some cash back
@aw services Yeah, I kinda agree EXCEPT - it was disclosed it was "not running right" and "low power". The smoke is clearly visible. Jesse should have walked/looked more thoroughly/ offered 10k. These things happen. Jesse has a better attitude than most of us would!
Good video. Tracking down the culprit. And amazingly, as aggravated as you must have been at times, no cussing, no yelling at the kids, and no complaining about the camera being in your way.
It is still puzzling that disconnecting the injector made no difference.
Really glad you kept at it and fixed it to the point of "let's see how it goes". I think you are a natural mechanic knowing when to dig deeper. Nice work.
My father always taught me if you’re going to get into something and start working on it finish it right. He’d probably recommend going through it all the way. I don’t think that’s always necessary. Given what this machine‘s put you through already though I would probably close the door on it by finishing it right. If the cylinder walls aren’t damaged I would hone them. I would definitely have the head gone through clean the seats up etc. anyways you’re a hell of a mechanic. It’ll be fun watching what you do.
Tech for Deere here, awesome video, been thinking about doing this kinda thing with the skid steers, tractors and dozers I work on. At our shop I would quote out a full rebuild to the customer since the motors gonna have to be pulled anyways, if it were me in your position I’d probably do rod bearings, piston arms, pistons and rings and let her ride on.
Like I said cool video, can’t wait for a part 2 👍🏻🤘🏼
evidently alot of people really like these repair videos. anything diesel gets alot of attention. I really am not sure why but it works out good for the projects I have coming up
"it's not that much work"
Kinda of understatement Jess
Congratulations, you was very lucky!
I'm praying for you man. I hope the seller sees this video and his conscience makes him try to make it good. If he doesn't, then just don't ever give him any more of your business and warn your friends too.
If it were me, at this point before I did any more work on this motor I would price out a good used motor. You still would have to actually examine the bottom end to determine the full extent of the damage and you might still find spaghetti crankshaft. Minimum a new rod and rings, and bearings.
I would do exactly what you’re thinking. Drop the pan, replace piston/rings, replace rod and hone it. I would pop off the bearing caps to check the condition of the bearings while the pan is off and replace if needed. I’m a firm believer that a piece of equipment or vehicle needs to “earn its keep” before dropping a ton of money into it. At this point you’ve touched all the rusty bolts and crossed that bridge, so if you need to revisit something in a year or 2 after it makes you money at least it will be a lot easier.
Yes exactly. A machine needs to earn its keep before it gets all kinds of attention and the rusted out exhaust bolts were the hardest thing I had fo do so taking the head out again will be a breeze. These are exactly what I was thinking
But the way machinery prices are going (it’s a new game) for every dollar you put into it, with your ability, you are going to get five times that back in sale value. Way better than money in the bank. Do it right, use the hell out of it, and sell it for a profit. @@jmuller86
Good job extracting the broken part. Honestly, I didn't expect the drill to even cut it much less the tap. Looks really hard.
Bummer on the bent rod.
Yes, I would be suspicious of the rings in that cylinder.
"im selling it cheap cause it doesnt run well, it just needs filters though" how can someone say that stuff with a straight face.. if that were the case theyd put the filters on it and double the price.. no ones throwing 6 grand away to spite 30 minutes work and 300$ in filters
same kind of person who says something just needs a battery and when you show up with a good battery to fit the excuses start rolling out and they curse you off the property as if you were the one trying to rip them off
$17,000 at 1:12:37
@@jheissjr yeah i made that comment at the start of the video, but i was refering to them throwing away the price difference between a fully functional machine vs one that needs attention, 17k was alot to pay for it with a missfire, machine is probably only worth 22k working good, he can do the repairs himself though he'll be into it for less than 22k when its working properly just out a bit of time
Yeah, you really need the full story (all be it as a mechanic I still have yet for that to actually happen) it sometimes is just as simple as they are an operator and have no mechanical knowledge whatsoever only basic maintenance. I can certainly agree that the majority of the time people are just straight up greedy and it is generally good practice to just avoid it. Sometimes you get lucky though.
I always love the market place listings like that, “selling for a low price because it needs these 3 simple things. If it doesn’t sell I will fix it and the price will go up!
Amazing deductive skills, persistence and methodical patience ! Even with $17,000 at stake, it is an impressive testament to your awesome abilities ! Bravo !
BTW, I watched Part 2 before Part 1, and learned the answer early, but I wanted to find out how you got to the answer !
I love Yanmar! Great video... your knowledge always amazes me!
Jesse!! I am very impressed every time I watch your videos and especially with how professional, knowledgeable and thorough you are in the trades. From one former Adirondack boy to another, you are a very hard worker! Please continue documenting your talents so that I can watch the work and spy a few glances of the Adirondack woodlands in the background.
I was just up at the cabin about 2 weeks ago, there was a fluke snowstorm just as I got there. got some cool footage of it for some upcoming videos
@@jmuller86 Your'e in the Adirondacks? For some reason I always thought you were down in the Catskills near Andrew. I guess I came to that conclusion because of the work you did on his container castle.
@@tyendor1952 we have a family cabin up there. I will move up there someday. Will start building later this year hopefully
@@jmuller86 Gotcha, I grew up sorta between the Catskills and the Adirondacks. east of Albany near the Mass & Vt borders.Actually born in the Berkshires because the hospital in Pittsfield Mass was the closest one. I left NY years ago and still miss some things about it but not enough to ever move back.
I like how you don't cut corners
Excellent videography and sound… felt like we were leaning over your shoulder and watching. What a job - you have meticulous skill and attention detail.
I would have to agree with what Colin stated. At the beginning of the video, My husband stated it had a lot to do with the injector. Some smart thinking with the homemade puller. With all that you have done in the years that I have been watching, not too much surprises me anymore, and always enjoy the videos. Like Andrew, your amazing, at the skills you have and are teaching your older son, on and off, and all that you have been learning along the way, and the patience for it all. Looking forward to the next part of this video and others in the future.
Late to the game on this video but that extraction technique was amazing and I know sometime in the next few decades it's going to come back into my mind and save me. On to watch part 2 now!
Looks like you are going through allot of trouble getting that skid steer engine fixed. But having to work outside, you are doing a hell of a good job finding and fixing things. I know you will get it working well. You are good at DIY stuff. Your videos are superb, and you don't have your face in the camera most of the time like some other You Tude videos are. It will be nice when you get your garage built and finished out with all your tools and equipment to make it easier to work on your equipment. I know that skid steer will run top notch when you get it done. 😃
This skidsteer has been running great for years. Its the jcb that is giving me trouble
You've got the patients of Jobe
That was very interesting.
I'm not a trained mechanic, so I'll be silent on what to do.
Good lucky Jesse.
Feel for you, I know it is a bunch of unplanned work ahead for you, but look on the bright side, I get to enjoy another video with you making it work. Thank you, really enjoy your videos. Looking forward to more work on your house too.
I got a rebuild kit for my tl140 for around 500. It included new sleeves. I’d just overhaul it. Plus they are inframable.
I swear You & Andrew can do absolutely anything! Very Impressive 👍🏻
I’d check everything b 4 putting it back on. That’s b 4 replacing the entire thing, make sure there’s no cracks, scratches or anything. But if you do find something wrong it least you know what to replace it with. You’re very talented in fixing things Jesse. Keep up the great work as well.
Jesse, Think of it this way, when you’re done fixing it you’ll know it’s great work and will last your lifetime! Hope you can get all the attachments, like Andrew has!
Hey! Hey!! An ingenious idea that worked. Onward!
Love everything Jessie posts, fun to watch
great video. I feel bad about your troubles but what a reward sharing what you did and learned. You have no idea how this helps the guys out here that don't know zip, like me! I am wanting a tracked skid steer and learning all I can about the possible issues from you and all the other guys on youtube that deal with them is a great treasure. I hope it all goes well and you make many times what you paid for this machine back with the work you can do with it.
Kudos for your patience and determination.
Seems like we're always trying to measure whether or not we get a good deal trying to create the expectation during the transactions.
You are so very blessed to have that drive, knowledge and experience with determination to fix it.
Experience can be the best teacher of all.
I'm done with purchasing something because it seems like a good deal
And have walked away from two tractors which were ridiculously low priced. No regrets! whatsoever!
New channel name : The Mechanic Detective . Great content. Keep em coming 👍
Jesse, absolutely love this video. I have an older Case skid steer sitting in my shop. it has been a number of years since it has had any major service done on it. I have already ID'd that I will be replacing seals in all of the hydraulic rams. Have to repair a couple of the seals leading out to the tires. I have some kind of leak of hydraulic oil down by the main pump - so will be taking many of the lines out to inspect them and replace what needs it. Lastly, I will be taking the head off the engine in this unit because I fear it too has a blown seal. So, I am really enjoying watching what you are doing - It is priming me up for what I will have to do.
Wow, you really pushed on through every problem, great video. I think between you and Andrew, you are responsible for 99% of the "I had to weld a nut on" videos on YT 😸
Seriously impressive to get the sheared rod out of the press fit. Took a lot of patience and ingenuity.
I don’t know which is better. Watching you build or mechanics but I love watching your channel!
Great bit of work Jessie, hopefully you get away with just replacing one con rod, as you say there was no knocking so hopefully no other damage to the crank. Wishing you all the luck with it.
Really enjoyed video and your clarity and diagnostics were brilliant. Sorry that it is a bit more trouble than you thought it would be but am really looking forward to the next video.
The comments are really interesting. You have good, wise and articulate followers. Thanks.
Really glad u made a video of this Jesse I’ve been patiently waiting!!
Gosh what a bummer Jesse, but I know you will get it straightened out, after analyzing everything and without hearing a knock in the bottom end I’m thinking someone tipped it over which filled the cylinder with oil, then after they turned it back over they tried starting it and bent the rod. I would just hone the cylinder or a new sleeve if possible, get a new rod and piston and put it back together and call it done. But before doing that mic the other cylinders first and determine off that I’d also pull the other pistons and at least put new rings on them. Best of luck my friend we are all cheering you on!
I have the tl130 exact same machine same motor... I bought it with a blown motor it hydro locked on cylinder 1 same ss yours but much worse. Make sure you check the bottom of the cylinder wall it will break a chunk out. Also do not use any other head gasket than yanmar if you do you will be sorry. I changed one rod and the piston but bought a new block thru alibaba. It was 3000 dollars cheaper. Glad to give you any help if I can great video.
thats funny that you say that about the bottom of the cylinder wall. mine does have a chunk missing. but its a good 1/2" below the lowest ring when the piston is bottom dead center. I am just gonna put a new connecting rod in and send it. I figure I dont have much to loose, if it trashes the block then it was already trashed anyways. Taking it apart the second time I could do it in a half day. Did that block from Alibaba work for you? I was looking at a bunch of them for like $2500 but coming from china, didnt want to take a chance. I will just send it for now and if it bends a rod again I will get a new block
@@jmuller86 yeah it worked great and I had from China on 3 days. My machine had 1800 hrs so the rest of the motor was in great shape. They are great motors they either last forever or die young lol. Good luck I'll be watching. If I can help be glad to.
I was ecstatic at the beginning of the video because I have been waiting on you to add a CTL to the fleet for a quite a while now, but by the end of it I was wore slap out from all the drama and suspense this purchase has brought you! I was proud to see that extraction! It has definitely been said in the past that you are incredibly patient and resilient and it still holds true. I’m sorry you missed-out on the deal that came just after that purchase, but honestly I believe the whole situation is gonna work out down the road. You do a great job no matter what it is that you do brother. Keep on gettin’ after it!
Jesse, your wealth of knowledge is astounding. You are great at teaching, btw.
Great mechanic skills, you followed the issues in a methodical way. So it going to be in great shape when you pass it on! Thank you for sharing.
Hey Jesse, is it me or does almost every tooth on that flywheel (if that is what you were rotating) cracked, chipped or almost broken? Any man that can be a master electrician, builder, transmission repair, diesel mechanic, concrete work, and drive a semi-truck is truly a genius.
A lot of flywheel ring gears are cut in a way that would appear they are maybe “chipped” but instead it’s to help the starter gear slide into place when it’s spinning really fast and possibly not aligned. I noticed it too, and for a second thought the same thing but quickly realized they were factory teeth cuts
That is the flywheel. The marks looked consistent with each tooth and looked like they were machined to allow the bendix on the starter to sync/engage with the flywheel. I think if it were worn, the marks would be inconsistent and you'd see shiny spots. An engine is only going to stop in a certain number of positions, so the starter will always be engaging and making contact in the same spots.
Agree.
@@ronfrance4041 Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense from what you said. To me (not a mechanic) it just didn't look right.
@@okiekidd6091 glad I could help. If you wanted to get a good image of what the bevel cuts really look like you can google “Detroit 53 series flywheel ring gear” or Detroit 71 series flywheel ring gear”. The bevel cuts on those are very pronounced. Of course the cuts are only on one side so not all pictures will show them
Bought a TL130 at auction, non-runner, 3300 hrs, practically new tracks, $8k. Surprisingly the battery charged. Would not get fuel to start. Put it on a temporary tank to start. Fuel problem was completely clogged fuel line elbow on fuel line at bottom of tank. Supposedly a common problem on TL-130s. After starting it had a bad knock. Sounded like it was in the top end not the bottom end. It smoked and had bad smell, it would burn your eyes being around it. Pulled the injectors and had them rebuilt. Still knocked. Pulled the head, bad news, could pull the #1 piston up and down. Pulled the engine. #1 rod bearing completely gone, crankshaft ruined. Got a Chinese bottom end rebuild kit (crankshaft, rods, main bearings, rod bearings, and gaskets) for around $800. Pistons looked good, still had crosshatch on cylinder walls. Re-honed the cylinders and put it back together. Ran it for about 30 minutes and had a bad oil leak and was blowing air into the coolant. I knew exactly what was causing the oil leak. I had damaged the rear seal putting it in. My fault, I was getting impatient. Pulled the engine again, replaced the rear seal. Looked at the head gasket real close and it looked like inferior quality. But had the head checked for cracks and being warped. No cracks and not warped enough to really matter but milled flat anyway. Bought a quality head gasket and put it back together and installed AGAIN. Runs fine, starts really well. Notes: Engine is a real trick to pull because there is a frame cross member just above the engine, very little room to get the engine in and out. Had to have the head off the engine to remove and install the engine. Get a good quality head gasket. I’m not sure that I like the double metal gaskets but that was all I could find. This whole problem was caused by a stripped out oil pan plug and since it was a contractor machine no body was taking care of it and they ran it out of oil.
that sounds like alot of work but for 8k, that was still a real good deal. If time was money you would be getting paid good for your time.
17 Grand?!?! My God I didn't think those tractors where that expensive. 17 Grand for somebody else's problems. I totally feel for you bro. But thank you for the video though, it's pretty cool getting away from the auto repair and watching some tractor work. Hopefully you can get it up a running good again. Can't wait for part 2!
Hello Jesse!!!! It is always such a great learning experience watching your videos Brother. My best wishes to you & your beautiful family!!! Your friend Larry C
Getting that broken stud/guide out was impressive! Clever getting the shaving from drilling out with a magnet. Could have also taped up the whole section except for a 3/8 hole for the drilling, like they do surgeries if you know what I mean - I know, easy to say when watching :D
But really I was sitting at the edge of my seat watching that :p
I Think just go for a new piston, rings, connecting rod, hone they cylinder, and rod bearing. Clean the head, and make sure the valves are all seating properly still. Then run it. it should be fine. i still think you got a good tracked skid steer, to use on your job's and for your self. can't wait for the next video. and i am glad to see you doing a video again, it has been a while. take care.
I have done exactly what you are talking about on many diesels, for different reasons, but it will work. I would not hone it out unless I did all 4 cylinders. Replace what you need to and get to work, it was not knocking! Hope the best
Ment to add definitely change all 4 bearings if any metal in oil!
Can't wait for the next episode in the saga.
I bought a TCL 80 (big brother of yours) from an auction in NY a few years ago. Paid 20k flat. Always thought that I got too tied up in bid pride but I feel better about it now. It's been a good beast but cold hearted in winter.
Don't know if you mentioned this but these Gehls are Takeuchis with a layer of yellow paint and Gehl decals. That's not a bad thing.
You are competent and will do what's necessary. Best of luck along the way.
I thought i was a handy guy, x machinist, auto body and mechanic...but you are one very smart, adaptable and patient guy.... Love this channel and was looking forward to a build, but this is better... Stay positive...
Very clever workaround on that broken pin.
Excellent extraction Jesse
Jessie, you may not realise it now, but the relationship you have with your brothers is exceptonally precious. Treasure them.
Jesse I hope that you are right and it won’t cost to much to fix. I always enjoy your videos. I wish they did not come with so much stress for you. Good luck.
Jesse, I had the exact same problem on a diesel car, it had dropped a valve and put a hole in the top of the piston destroying the cylinder head, I found the crank shaft had been bent rather than the conrod, but that showed in vibration when the engine was running. The conrod had managed to stay straight. So, I would check the crank and the little end of the conrod/piston, as I think the conrod would survive better than the crank.
At this point, the logical thing to do is rebuild the motor complete. Pull it out, get crank checked, hone cylinders, replace rod, bearings, rings - you will have new engine and the machine will last for many years. Put in the work, put in the money.
I dont mind spending money to make it right but I just dont have the time to take the block out, clean it up, send it out etc. I think I will just put the rod in and see if it lasts, if it doesnt then I will probably just get a reman. I wouldnt mind doing a tear down but I have so many other machines/vehicles/trailers to fix on top of building my house
@@jmuller86 Appreciate the reply. I hope you don't spend as much time band-aiding it as you would have to rebuild it. Like the saying goes -"how come we have time to do it over but not the time to do it right?" Good Luck with it!
It was a tough journey for you, but great content for us. Waiting for part 2. Thanks Jesse.
If it was mine, and after you remove the lower access plate there's plenty of room I'd pull the pan, yank the rod and piston from that hole. Then inspect the piston for damage. Those diesel pistons are tough by design, and are hard to kill. If it's ok, hone it with a bead hone, check the ring end gaps of new rings and if it's within spec install a new rod, bearing and the old piston and let it eat. If the crank journal is fubar or the piston is damaged then adapt accordingly. Good luck brother, I'll check out the next video to see how she goes.
I have nothing to add but it was very informative and interesting! A lot of videos I fast forward to something more informative but I watched every second and thanks good narration….something to strive for on my videos.