Thank you very much for this informative series. This has been a dream of mine since the plans came out when I was sixteen. I have the plan set as well as all of the magazines, but I'm afraid it's too late for me ever to build it. My Dad and I wanted to build it and use it to go down the Inland Waterway from New York to Florida, and he would use it for retirement, but life got in the way, and we never did it. But the dream still lives.
@@ourtinyhouseboat Thanks for the good thought. I'd probably have to hire most of the labor, but it's inspiring to see you two building this. I envy the thrill of launching; there's none like it. I always used to offer a prayer when I launched the canoes I built: "Over the Land and into the Drink, please Dear Lord don't let 'er sink!"
I just caught your video. It popped up as a suggestion. When you mentioned the magazine and that you extended the plans , I thought of “ Brandy Bar “. Now I want to review your other videos. All the best, Hal
Thank you for the update video. Good work on finding the material and equipment buys and thank you for pointing them out. Everything looks great and is holding up well. Hope you and your partner are getting lots of time on the water to enjoy your efforts. Take care, stay well and have a great summer boating.
Thank you for this video! It shows that it is definitely worth it to shop around! I love the foam flooring! I consider using this throughout my entire boat.
Love the boat, it is a beauty! Wouldn't lower the bottom coat. Algae and barnacles love to climb up a boat. Curious what you used to waterproof spruce?
I left about 3" above the waterline. Barnacles are not a problem on these fresh water lakes and the anti-fouling keeps the algae off. A bit of a scum line above the water line. The hull is waterproofed with epoxy and fiberglass. Above the hull we used an opaque stain and sealer. This has held up well over the past 3 years. I'll probably redo it over the next month but use an exterior paint instead of a stain. The roof was also covered in epoxy and fiberglass and then I added a coiuple of coats of one component epoxy usually used for concrete floors. That has flaked off in a couple of small spots, probably because these areas weren't properly cleaned. Thanks for your comment.
different epoxy resins have different resin to hardner ratios. Most of what I used had a 1:1 ratio. Assuming that the plywood hull is first coated with a seal coat of epoxy and then with 6 oz cloth and resin and then followed by another layer of 6 oz cloth and resin up to the water line, you may need at least 50 gal. The surface area of the hull is approximately 500 sf. A US gal of mixed epoxy covers about 12 sf. The seal coat will require less epoxy or around 20 gal. The cloth layers will need about 40 gal which should be enough to do a 2nd layer up to the water line (15"). If the epoxy is too thick you can dilute with acetone or denatured alcohol (check with manufacturer). Check the coverage for the epoxy you're buying, it may differ. The resin will store for a long time but the hardner sometimes can go off after a year or so. Hope this helps.
@@ourtinyhouseboat WOW .That is lots of epoxy .West System cost over $1000 for 5 gal . So that is over 10k just for epoxy (you said at least 50 gal ) What brand of epoxy did you use ?
I was assuming a thickness of 1/8" which is probably too much. 1/32" is probably more realistic which would reduce epoxy requirements to 12 gal. but you're still looking at around $2K in cost. I used aeropoxy which has a 100:27 ratio (not 1:1 as previously stated) instead of west system. I also glassed the sides of the hull before attaching. Flat surfaces need less epoxy than vertical surfaces. After attaching to the sides I covered the seams with fiberglass tape. You could also save $ by using polyester resin after applying the epoxy seal coat.
laughing in european at the explanation of principle of archimedes. 1 liter of water is 1 cubic decimeter and weighs 1 kilo. Every kilogram of the boat causes One cubic meter of waterdisplacement. If your boat was 1 by 1 meter, every 100 kilogram of weight would cause it to sink 1 decimeter(0.10 meter)
Thank you very much for this informative series. This has been a dream of mine since the plans came out when I was sixteen. I have the plan set as well as all of the magazines, but I'm afraid it's too late for me ever to build it. My Dad and I wanted to build it and use it to go down the Inland Waterway from New York to Florida, and he would use it for retirement, but life got in the way, and we never did it. But the dream still lives.
Thanks for your comment. I started building the tiny houseboat when I was 72. I don't think being almost 80 is too late.
@@ourtinyhouseboat Thanks for the good thought. I'd probably have to hire most of the labor, but it's inspiring to see you two building this.
I envy the thrill of launching; there's none like it. I always used to offer a prayer when I launched the canoes I built: "Over the Land and into the Drink, please Dear Lord don't let 'er sink!"
Thanks for the update.
Really good work!
Like it!
I just caught your video. It popped up as a suggestion. When you mentioned the magazine and that you extended the plans , I thought of “ Brandy Bar “.
Now I want to review your other videos. All the best, Hal
What is "Brandy Bar"?
Hello , from Russua!(Samara) 👍
Thank you for the update video. Good work on finding the material and equipment buys and thank you for pointing them out. Everything looks great and is holding up well. Hope you and your partner are getting lots of time on the water to enjoy your efforts. Take care, stay well and have a great summer boating.
Thank you for this video! It shows that it is definitely worth it to shop around! I love the foam flooring! I consider using this throughout my entire boat.
bravo et merci pierrot 88 ans paris f
I sure did binge them all.
Great series, thanks for the new video.
Nice work
thanks
Yes, thank you for sharing! My wife and I are looking for ideas on building ours and I have been following you and three others!
Hoping all is well with you, still waiting for another video!
have to wait for the ice to melt. next video towards the end of may or early juine
Love the boat, it is a beauty! Wouldn't lower the bottom coat. Algae and barnacles love to climb up a boat. Curious what you used to waterproof spruce?
I left about 3" above the waterline. Barnacles are not a problem on these fresh water lakes and the anti-fouling keeps the algae off. A bit of a scum line above the water line. The hull is waterproofed with epoxy and fiberglass. Above the hull we used an opaque stain and sealer. This has held up well over the past 3 years. I'll probably redo it over the next month but use an exterior paint instead of a stain. The roof was also covered in epoxy and fiberglass and then I added a coiuple of coats of one component epoxy usually used for concrete floors. That has flaked off in a couple of small spots, probably because these areas weren't properly cleaned. Thanks for your comment.
do you have idea how much resin is required for the boat .Thanks
different epoxy resins have different resin to hardner ratios. Most of what I used had a 1:1 ratio. Assuming that the plywood hull is first coated with a seal coat of epoxy and then with 6 oz cloth and resin and then followed by another layer of 6 oz cloth and resin up to the water line, you may need at least 50 gal. The surface area of the hull is approximately 500 sf. A US gal of mixed epoxy covers about 12 sf. The seal coat will require less epoxy or around 20 gal. The cloth layers will need about 40 gal which should be enough to do a 2nd layer up to the water line (15"). If the epoxy is too thick you can dilute with acetone or denatured alcohol (check with manufacturer). Check the coverage for the epoxy you're buying, it may differ. The resin will store for a long time but the hardner sometimes can go off after a year or so. Hope this helps.
@@ourtinyhouseboat Thank you
@@ourtinyhouseboat WOW .That is lots of epoxy .West System cost over $1000 for 5 gal . So that is over 10k just for epoxy (you said at least 50 gal ) What brand of epoxy did you use ?
I was assuming a thickness of 1/8" which is probably too much. 1/32" is probably more realistic which would reduce epoxy requirements to 12 gal. but you're still looking at around $2K in cost. I used aeropoxy which has a 100:27 ratio (not 1:1 as previously stated) instead of west system. I also glassed the sides of the hull before attaching. Flat surfaces need less epoxy than vertical surfaces. After attaching to the sides I covered the seams with fiberglass tape. You could also save $ by using polyester resin after applying the epoxy seal coat.
@@ourtinyhouseboat thank you . Around 2k sounds good
laughing in european at the explanation of principle of archimedes. 1 liter of water is 1 cubic decimeter and weighs 1 kilo. Every kilogram of the boat causes One cubic meter of waterdisplacement. If your boat was 1 by 1 meter, every 100 kilogram of weight would cause it to sink 1 decimeter(0.10 meter)
yes much easier by metric but most of the viewers are in the US