I also always heard to never lower the floor of the runner to promote as much flow at the top of the port. Would be cool to see you do a video talking about the flow/porting dos and donts.
Ported a set of Flotek 180cc for the 355 in my pal's 21 foot Chris Craft. Nothing crazy, just worked the areas that obviously needed it. Quality seemed pretty good. Unfortunately no flow numbers to share, but when the Vortec 350 was in the boat with iron exhaust manifolds - the boat could go 54-54 mph with an ideal prop. With the Flotek heads (-50 lb), 5 cubic inches more displacement, a 215º/218º @ 0.515" extreme marine cam, and aluminum headifolds (-100 lb), the boat goes 62-63mph. A significant improvement. Both engines had the same Q-jet carb. Definitely holeshots better with the new engine. Hard to say how much performance came from the heads vs the cam vs the weight savings (big deal in a boat) - but overall the cheap Floteks seem pretty ok for a moderate build. Was soooo tempting to get the bigger 220s, but in a cruiser type boat, it'll be propped for 5500-5800rpm max and off-idle torque is super important to get the boat to come out of the hole. Remember, you've only got one "gear" in a boat, so you've gotta balance the low and high speed performance.
Just for comparision, my (much more expensive) Ford CHI 3V 208cc heads that have been ported to maybe 218 to 220cc, flow 297 @ .400. and 340 @ ,600 and at .700. The key is that the port is much higher up from the valve seat and have a larger short turn radius. Plus the canted valve.
Makes me wonder if the center divider is removed just past the push rod pinch and about an inch or so in the intake if that would help or hurt flow? Of course the remaining center section in the head should be shaped almost to a point with a small radius at the tip, the same for the intake. Probably would only be good for a single plane though?
Keep the distance the same from the opposite or outer push rod wall as your going into the port, that way the divider will bell out at the gasket and stay wide. The push rod wall tapers in, why not follow that same contour on the divider side, where the divider gets thin as it reaches the push rod pinch about an inch in, but the face stays the same?
Price is better then most. The material seems higher quality then others, similar to Promaxx. I sell the LS3 6 bolt Flotek and they claim 370 cfm @.700 and 343 cfm @.600 lift. It would be a great head to review.
I liked the 23 degree 64cc chamber Flotek heads I put on a 383. Only problem I had was the angle of the Edlbrock air gap didnt match the heads perfect, but a little sealant and ROL intake gaskets solved that problem. ROL gaskets for the win!
@WeingartnerRacing Most people just don't understand velocity and low turbulence in maintaining the cross-section area in a conventional intake port. Even a leaning port or trapezoidal shape with the right cross-section, with smooth transitions conserves energy and returns the sign better. Less fuel dropped from suspension also. That's always right and good 😊 This rarely happens when I type 😮😂
Why do you talk in head "c.c" volumes,but use 'boomer measurements' for the port dimensions in widths and depths? Just use millimetres. It makes a lot more sense.
Because these are American heads and in America we use the standard measurement system not metric. If I was doing an import head I might use metric but since most of my viewers are American I still probably wouldn’t. By the way cc is more a boomer thing. It is not near as accurate as csa which has become more popular later. Thank you gen x.
I hate seeing millimeters used for small measurements, larger or different applications not so much. I seen some Starretts on marketplace cheap yesterday, then noticed they were metric, dang! Being raised in the states it's just foreign to me. Don't think I'll ever learn the conversion. But hand tools I prefer metric 🤷♂️
I also always heard to never lower the floor of the runner to promote as much flow at the top of the port. Would be cool to see you do a video talking about the flow/porting dos and donts.
F.I and carberated engines work differently. You will deal with fuel separation in the port
The thicker port divider in the intake manifold and gasket will act as an anti-reversion dam.
Ported a set of Flotek 180cc for the 355 in my pal's 21 foot Chris Craft. Nothing crazy, just worked the areas that obviously needed it. Quality seemed pretty good. Unfortunately no flow numbers to share, but when the Vortec 350 was in the boat with iron exhaust manifolds - the boat could go 54-54 mph with an ideal prop. With the Flotek heads (-50 lb), 5 cubic inches more displacement, a 215º/218º @ 0.515" extreme marine cam, and aluminum headifolds (-100 lb), the boat goes 62-63mph. A significant improvement. Both engines had the same Q-jet carb. Definitely holeshots better with the new engine.
Hard to say how much performance came from the heads vs the cam vs the weight savings (big deal in a boat) - but overall the cheap Floteks seem pretty ok for a moderate build.
Was soooo tempting to get the bigger 220s, but in a cruiser type boat, it'll be propped for 5500-5800rpm max and off-idle torque is super important to get the boat to come out of the hole. Remember, you've only got one "gear" in a boat, so you've gotta balance the low and high speed performance.
@@thomasward4505 No one size fits all answer; totally depends on the type of boat. For a 21' runabout - seems like it'd be 1500 or so.
Just for comparision, my (much more expensive) Ford CHI 3V 208cc heads that have been ported to maybe 218 to 220cc, flow 297 @ .400. and 340 @ ,600 and at .700.
The key is that the port is much higher up from the valve seat and have a larger short turn radius. Plus the canted valve.
Makes me wonder if the center divider is removed just past the push rod pinch and about an inch or so in the intake if that would help or hurt flow? Of course the remaining center section in the head should be shaped almost to a point with a small radius at the tip, the same for the intake. Probably would only be good for a single plane though?
They do it in modern engine’s but, I imagine it would cause turbulence
Keep the distance the same from the opposite or outer push rod wall as your going into the port, that way the divider will bell out at the gasket and stay wide. The push rod wall tapers in, why not follow that same contour on the divider side, where the divider gets thin as it reaches the push rod pinch about an inch in, but the face stays the same?
Nice fair review Eric.👍
Price is better then most. The material seems higher quality then others, similar to Promaxx. I sell the LS3 6 bolt Flotek and they claim 370 cfm @.700 and 343 cfm @.600 lift. It would be a great head to review.
He done the LS3 Flotek a long time ago.
I did an in depth review of them. They were not that good. I also ported them and showed what they did.
I liked the 23 degree 64cc chamber Flotek heads I put on a 383. Only problem I had was the angle of the Edlbrock air gap didnt match the heads perfect, but a little sealant and ROL intake gaskets solved that problem.
ROL gaskets for the win!
Rol gaskets what's that?
Thanks Eric
Have you ever had success with using a punch and dimpling the thin wall between the two runners? Would it grab the gasket better maybe...?
That cool information about cnc heads what size engine will these 220s go on
People think a Port needs to be pretty to make power on an engine
What felpro intake gasket would you use? 1206 or 1207
If this was a 190cc head with a 2.02 valve those numbers would be pretty good. Thats a really poor 400 number especially because the 2.08 valve.
On this head would you center punch the intake divider or put a small groove in it for gasket retention?
I think that would be a good idea.
If there is not enough pressure on the intake gasket it will suck the gasket out on the divider... way too thin!!!
Looks like dragon slayers would stomp those
Yes
Raised ports make the most power and not lower ports... They made the port funnel shaped, no good! Tapered...
It’s not that simple. If you need area you have two ways of doing it. If one isn’t available you have to do the other.
Another note it doesn’t funnel shape. As the top and bottom come together it gets wider. Increasing area
@WeingartnerRacing Most people just don't understand velocity and low turbulence in maintaining the cross-section area in a conventional intake port. Even a leaning port or trapezoidal shape with the right cross-section, with smooth transitions conserves energy and returns the sign better. Less fuel dropped from suspension also. That's always right and good 😊
This rarely happens when I type 😮😂
Why do you talk in head "c.c" volumes,but use 'boomer measurements' for the port dimensions in widths and depths?
Just use millimetres.
It makes a lot more sense.
Because these are American heads and in America we use the standard measurement system not metric. If I was doing an import head I might use metric but since most of my viewers are American I still probably wouldn’t. By the way cc is more a boomer thing. It is not near as accurate as csa which has become more popular later. Thank you gen x.
I hate seeing millimeters used for small measurements, larger or different applications not so much. I seen some Starretts on marketplace cheap yesterday, then noticed they were metric, dang! Being raised in the states it's just foreign to me. Don't think I'll ever learn the conversion. But hand tools I prefer metric 🤷♂️