I have the same cleaner. For starters, it takes several 8 minute times before the water heats up enough. Secondly, use EvapoRust which will clean grease, dissolve rust and leave the remaining original coating on the bolts where it's not worn off. The wire wheel takes the coating off. After my ultrasonic broke, I went with a large crock pot and EvapoRust for a couple of hours. Works well.
Yep. Using the right cleaners and degreasers goes a long ways. I love my ultrasonic cleaners. You just need to know how to use it properly and what to expect, given the size of the cleaner. My large one will hold a 460 big block easily. It will get the real hard stuff off easier and faster than the smaller one.
I've worked with ultrasonic cleaners for many years. A good one the same size as yours would have completely cleaned your parts, using only water. Putting chemicals in yours is what did most of the cleaning. One thing to remember is you must suspend the part in the tank's bath. Like a fish on a hook. You do that with a piece of string or wire. Don't lay it down and don't encase it in a jar. It has to be enveloped in the ultrasonic sound waves for it to clean properly. Expect to pay approx. $400 for one that works correctly. What you bought is junk.
Agree. Cheapies are crap. I bought a good one a few years back and it seems to work WAY better than this toy. Also, what Tony bought isn't an ultrasonic cleaner, it's a sous vide cooker. So there's that issue, too.
I have a couple of industrial units in the shop from a closed dental office. They rip the nastiest crud off the back of valves, make plugs look like new, etc. It's a shame to see someone get soured on the idea by testing junk. Tony: the standard test for a cleaner working properly is to put aluminum foil in it, water only, room temp; it should be full of holes in about 5 minutes. Also, that crackly sound is from the transducers not being properly bonded to the tub. Tips: for greasy stuff, automatic dishwaer detergent (cascade) is aggressive,cheap,and won't foam like dish soap. And don't put fingers in a live bath because the pressure wave will do a nice job of cleaning those pesky ligaments from your bones.
I’ve been using a Vevor ultrasonic cleaner for a a few months. It gets extremely hot and I use 50/50 simple green and water. So far it’s been excellent for me. It’s removed things off crusty carburetors that other methods wouldn’t. I haven’t tried any really nasty fasteners or anything though.
Use water in the cleaner. then put the solvent or cleaner in a jar. And put the parts in the jar. Then drop the jar in the water. (I personally like the solvent properties of 91% to 97% isopropyl alcohol, but I could forsee evaporust being a good option for certaincases too.)
Exactly why I started using a bench vise to hold the bolts/parts, and a drill with wire wheels, drum/disc Sanders etc. Easier, faster safer, and I don't have to waste time looking for whatever flew out of my hands.
I personally find the heater is only good to maintain a temperature. I put in hot water. I use mine to clean antique blackpowder firearms. Works amazing at that.
Or removing metal from the threads of the bolts that's required to get the correct torque specs. Not to mention, turning the carcinogens that's in the grime into a metallic dust that you can breathe in. But I'd rather hold my bolt with my fingers next to a 3000 RPM wire wheel instead of putting on rubber gloves and making a solution of warm water and degreaser along with a $3 set of nylon brushes.
I use simple green in mine. If you have a large volume of fluid, you can just use water and put your parts in an old peanut butter jar or ziplock baggie with the solvent . The results are the same and you don’t need to clean the basket/ container
I use the exact same cleaner with water, then drop in a smaller container full of vinegar to clean my stainless 22lr silencer baffles. After about two 8 minute cycles they come out looking factory fresh.
I got the larger HF version and put an old tractor carb in there for the max time and temp and when I was done there was a quarter inch of the finest silty rust dirt layer on the bottom of it. I used the wire wheel of restoration for years before but it can grab and throw a bolt across the shop and take your skin to the bone.
These things are intended to be used to clean jewelry, silverware, small parts, rifle brass, etc. They do work very well on motorcycle carburetors. Tiny air and fuel passageways sparkle. Jets and other brass parts look like new if the correct brass cleaning additive is used. So small parts, even some electrical parts, good. But no F250 leaf springs.
@timdodd3897 I degrease my rusty chains then throw them in a screen basket and bead blast them on both sides then throw in the ultrasonic cleaner in Simple Green and Water at 10:1 ratio. Cleans them up in under 1/2 hour. Come out looking like new.
@jasonbusch3624 I'd like to see what happens when you put a chain checker on the chain after all that. I'd bet it's stretched and worn beyond specs. If you don't believe me now, you'll remember this conversation after you break a chain, launch yourself over the bars and have to push it back home with road rash.
@aaadamt964 I have a Park Tool chain checker and check every chain before and after cleaning. Most are on older bikes and are fine. If it was a nice newer bike with a 8,9,10, or 11 speed chain I would just put a new chain on it.
I’ve used two of these for the past 6 or so years to clean brass for reloading. It works pretty well, just have to make sure the water you use is very hot. I also use it to clean pistols from time to time. Edit: there are two red lights. One red light is for the heat being on. The other comes on if it gets too hot and auto shuts itself off. I’m not surprised it didn’t work great on decades old grimy hardware. You’d need a more powerful industrial style one - I have a friend with one, $600 and it works very well on all sorts of things.
Huh? Really? He's using a device / tool that's made to be used in the home for small parts like jewelry and electronics. For $70 more, you can get the actual tool that's made for the job. They sell a industrial version right next to this on the shelf that clearly states it's made for shop use.
I can confirm sonic cleaners work great on dirty carburetors and carb parts, however how good it works is very dependent on what kind of liquid you use. Also I have a Vevor 30L unit from Amazon that allows me to run a 30 minute cycle and has a decent heater. I’ve used two types of simple green, the purple pro one and the aircraft cleaner one and had very good results with both , also had good results with spray 9 grease off. A few other people have mentioned putting small bits in a jar which allows you to use multiple different cleaners as well as not dirty the main fluid, glass jars work best. Between cycles it’s good to use some kind of brush to agitate the dirt/grime what have you on your parts which really helps the cleaner work I find. I’ve also used it to clean snow mobile clutches as well as rusty tools, bolts etc.
Exactly. For a couple hundred dollars, I thought they were actually pretty inexpensive. And any reputable shop working on $50,000 engines like on this show could afford one instead of damaging pretty vital engine bolts. Not to mention that there's no need to be risking a trip to the emergency room holding a 1-in bolt with your bare fingers with a wire wheel spinning at 3K RPMs. And see all that dust around the machine, it's also in the air when it's being used. Free for everyone to breathe in. But we're going to get upset when using a $89 cleaner that's not intended for shop/industrial use. This unit is actually made for jewelry and electronics.
It really upsets me that someone that has been around a shop this long doesn't know how to use the right tool for the right job. And then give a bad review when the tool doesn't do the job that it's NOT intended to do. It clearly states that this is made for small parts and jewelry for a homeowner. Not a mechanics shop or industrial setting. I know that it might break the bank, but for $70 more you need to get the right tool for the job. That's the larger stainless steel more robust ultrasonic cleaner. It's actually made for a shop environment. I have both of these and when used correctly, they both work and do what they are made to do as stated in the instructions. Or simply on the outside of the box or description in the online store. If anyone has a problem with this unit heating the water and it taking 8 to 10 minutes to heat it, realize that you can put hot water in it to begin with as also stated in the instructions. The heater and the unit will then maintain the heat in the solution. I really don't understand the need for a review on an item that's been reviewed hundreds of times over the last 10 years and literally works. It's also a lot safer than anything your hands to hold a one-inch bolt from a wire wheel and creating a cloud of carcinogenic dust. 0
I've had that exact one for ages and use the hell out of it for cleaning gun parts , brass cases and also for deep cleaning my airbrushes . Go get the gun parts cleaning solution from Bass Pro shops or some similar place .Mine gets pretty hot after a couple of cycles .
The vevor 15L is awesome !!!! Fill it with water and use jars with whatever cleaner you want to use to clean your parts. I use gas in a pickle jar for hardware, carbs etc.
if you use special liquids like evaporust or whatever. fill the cleaner with water and fill a ziplock bag with the special liquid and put the bolts in there.
The little HF one is good for small carbs... but you gotta get them HOT first. For cleaning alot of bolts, a vibratory tumbler, and some cheap triangle media from HF works wonders. Used to drop a bunch the tumbler at the end of the evening and let it run until the next morning. came out spotless.
Simple green 50/50 with water. Let the thing get HOT. Then let your parts cook for like 30-40 minutes. Another trick if you want to remove anodizing use Purple Power the same way. HOT for 30-40 minutes. Parts will look black when you take them out. Then a quick scrub with scotchbrite and all that anodizing comes right off. You don't need ultrasonic to remove anodizing, but it helps.
Hey Tony You have to let it heat up for about 10 min before you try to use it. Mine gets hot enough that you can't put your hand in it. A sonic cleaner won't do shit until it gets hot. Try letting it heat up for a few mins before you try working it. Let the heater do it's job before you put anything into it. Mine works ok and it's the same one that you have. Later
Hire a young buck that wants to learn. I was a 'Go-for' for 5 years to a master tech Vietnam vet. Learned every dirty joke and sexual inuendo imaginable. Good times.
Thanks. You saved me from buying one of those with this video. I was in Harbor Freight just last week and seriously considered buying one that day. Something held me back… I just wanted to do a little more research. Well, this is everything I needed to know. Back to the wire wheel.
I second this. Ive had much better luck using gas in a mixing cup inside the sonic cleaner versus using an all purpose cleaner with just the sonic cleaner itself
I have one of those, i clean hard to clean stuff with little nooks and crannies. only works well when hot. I even lay something over the top to trap more heat in. the closer to the boiling point of water the better the little micro cavitation bubbles will form and collapse which does most of the work i think. Suspend stuff right over the transducer with fishing line, this is an acoustical thing and letting the part touch the sides deadens the sound. also the sound waves come up directly from the transducer. Test it with aluminum foil, you'll see where the effect os strong and weak by observing the damage to the foil (it will tear holes in it). So heat it up, suspend parts, cover, start cycle, and repeat a few cycles for good measure. Carb parts, fuel injectors and stuff like that work great.
Most put in parts in Larger models with a Longer timer. Coment & Superclean work well. These allow you to clean parts while working on other stuff IE: engine bay. You NEED to watch other videos on Ultrasonic Cleaners. Most people put parts in them for 4 -12 hrs. There Not Designed to remove heavy rust. They can remove crud from Jets with the right cocktail. This size is for usually Watch & Clock restorers. Even if you don't like how well Your parts came out It still saves you time on the finish cleanup at the wire wheel. Let these machines help you Utilize your time better. Were All Getting Older. Merry Christmas UTG.
I have one of these, it's works great for cleaning carburetors for small engines. I just use simple green, or purple power in mine. The short timer is the biggest downside to this machine. Certainly not big enough for automotive stuff, but for lawnmower, chainsaw, leaf blower, and other small carbs it is very handy. The biggest benefit to this machine in my opinion is it's small size, so it doesn't use up much cleaning products and your not tempted to reuse the dirty stuff after only cleaning one or two carbs. I have a much larger machine but it's a waste for these small jobs. You should fill it with hot water first then let the heater run for a while before you use it. Mine gets hot enough to burn me. I'd estimate it heats up to about 180-190ish degrees but I've never measured it. Filling with hot water greatly speeds up the heating process.
I always let it warm up before putting the items in. I don't use anything but water and it cleans it perfectly but I'm also using a 35litre non-bongosqueegy made version.
I've used that thing a bit. My experience is that to get a good result you can't use a generic cleaner. Most people use this to clean their jewelry or common household items. The right soap or solvent for doing those things is not the right one for cleaning engine parts. I normally use mine to clean range brass. If I were to want to clean greasy engine parts the first step would probably be to soak them in a solvent to thin the grease. Then I would probably custom make my own soap...probably a mixture of dawn dish soap with a small amount of a base like lye in it. It would take some experimentation to get the right mixture that wouldn't damage the device, would clean the part, and would be minimally hazardous to me. NOTE: You have to make sure your cleaning agent is compatible with the material. Bases like lye don't always react nice with aluminum, but might be fine with steel. Too much lye is hazardous to your skin: Be Careful! Simple Green works, too, but is expensive. You want it cheap so you don't feel bad throwing out the lot after each cleaning.
@@keithshepherd4693So is a wire wheel spinning at 3,000 RPM and using it to clean a 1-in bolt with your bare hands as you're throwing metal dust and grease into the air for you to breathe.
I've had that same exact ultrasonic cleaner for like 10 years. the first time I used it was on old diesel fuel injectors and it worked really good. now I have to run it like five or six cycles for it to get really good and hot. and I use that carburetor cleaning solution that comes in a 1 gallon bucket. it will clean a carburetor to virtually brand new condition that way. I also throw all my jewelry in it with just plain water and it does a great job. the ultrasonic cleaner powder that they sell doesn't do anything. I think it's just cornstarch or something.... I also put vinegar in it once or twice to get rust off of things and it seems to accelerate that process
Tony, I don't think you have the right tool for the right job if you can pick up the part after 24 minutes the water is nowhere near hot enough. That white crap you mixed in, probably for jewelry. I purchased a Vevor unit 10 liter it has two knobs one for the 400 watt heater and a knob for time which will run 30 minutes. If you want to get things moving faster use degreaser and boiling water water and crank the timer to 30 minutes and play with the dog. The amount of crap that comes out of a carby after I have cleaned it is surprising
I have 2 bench grinders mounted back to back on 1 harbor freight bench grinder stand. One grinder has a course and fine wire wheel. The 2nd bench grinder has a grinding wheel and a buffing wheel. I restore pinball machines and use both grinders all the time.
I've had this model for some time. It's a pretty weak ultrasonic cleaner. It does work but it takes the right cleaning chemical for the job and several cycles. But it does eventually do the job. I have no idea what that powder is you're using but I use simple green most of the time. Sometimes super clean. Sometimes other stuff.
LMAO @ 11:17 😂 It reminded me of the episode of the Brady Bunch where Bobby put in all that detergent in the washing machine and the whole place filled up with suds.
I had 2 of these, used purple cleaner and it caused the plastic on the case and cover to crack, got one replacement from HF and the second one did the same. Bought a metal unit online for a little more money and it has been fine, Vevor.
I use an ultrasonic filled with carb cleaner to clean carbs and most importantly plugged up suction screens. It will make an aeromotive fuel pump screen like new after they get stopped up. Cleans hydraulic screens like magic too. It usually takes 2-3 hours though and I only run the temp about 120f to avoid fires
I had a cleaner like that one. Had it for years. Wore it out. I never cleaned bolts in it. The wire wheel is my go to for that. I used 50/50 pine sol and water to clean carb castings. It worked well for my needs. The heat is very slow. But it does get hot. I usually would throw an old shirt on top of it to quiet it and help keep the heat in. But i still will be getting a bigger stainless one.
Dishwasher tablets are the best thing to use. I use mine all the time and its great. I use it for everything from varb parts to pistons and its awesome. Your heater isnt working, mine gets to about 140 degrees. This unit is the lowest power and will need multiple cycles for most jobs.
I used to have one of these, and this is not what I'd call a shop based tool, there are other ones better for the shop. I did use mine to clean motorcycle carburetors and it took a few cycles, but did work, ultimately I decided I needed a bigger, more powerful unit, I think this one is good for jewelry and the like with is much less soiled. Also, your soaking agent needs to be compatible with what you're cleaning, if it's covered with grease you need a degreaser, I use Simple Green on greasy stuff.
I wonder about the difference later on when it starts to corrode again. I used to work in a tool crib and when we would clean tools and stuff with the wire wheel, it would always corrode again later in the same spots because it scratches the surface a little.
@@akbychoice We would always wipe down everything with oil after the wire wheel. I don't know if the wheels were stainless or not, but after a while when we would clean the tools again, you could always tell where the old spots were. The etching marks would always get corrosion in them too.
Ultrasonic cleaners are not meant for cleaning greasy bolts. I use mine as the final cleaning step for bicycle chains. The chains are first soaked in solvent to remove the grease, then put in the ultrasonic with simple green / water. The chains look clean when they go in, but the water is filthy when they come out, you cannot get inside the chain links with a wire brush. For a true test, put the bolts you cleaned on the wire wheel in the ultrasonic cleaner with some pinesol after bringing the ultrasonic up to temperature, you will be surprised at how dirty the cleaning liquid will be afterwards. Or clean a carburetor your way and then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner. It didn’t work due to operator error, kind of like waxing a dirty car without cleaning it first.
Hello everyone from Buffalo Niagara Falls NY USA 👋🇺🇲 Tony, thanks for spending the money to get one and trying it! I never had one but also thought it was a good idea 🤔. Also what's the end game of the bots and spammers below?
Thank you for trying this. I WAS thinking about buying this, but I'll pass. I just got through using the wire wheel method on my LeBaron front end parts, and as usual, my t-shirt is covered in rust dust, but that's what a washing machine is for.
I use simple green, a few drops of dish soap, and distilled water. I always pre-heat first. Granted mines not a harbor freight model. I use mine mostly on firearm parts...between carbon, grease and oil , I can't complain.
I used to use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the pens I used to draw ink drawings for blueprints. The best way to clean them was to let them soak overnight and finish cleaning them the next day. That is the way I would clean things like small carburetor parts, etc if I were you. You won’t get anything clean in just a few minutes using the ultrasonic cleaner. The best use in the shop would be for parts too small to clean with your wire brush wheel.
I have the same sonic cleaner, you need to pre heat it and I use straight simply green. Also harbor freights rust remover works great in cleaning stuff.
Tony...I have one of those cleaners and the key is using a stronger cleaning solution. I have a 1947 vintage Craftsman 1/2" socket set that my late father received as a wedding gift. The sockets were slightly rusty and had years of accumulated grime. I used a mixture of undiluted Purple Power with a cup of white vinegar added. The sockets came out perfectly clean and derusted, with a wonderful 65 year patina. Oh, also PLEASE use a face shield when using that wire wheel...that's my 30 years as an EH&S professional for a rocket engine company talking...
I think the QC on these things ranges wildly. I have this same one I bought about 6 years ago and it heats up quickly to a point where you can't put your hand in it. A second or two max before it hurts. So that part is fine for my unit. The ultrasonic aspect, you can test out the strength by putting your finger in and testing where it's stronger and weaker. For me, the center is the strongest and hurts after a few seconds. Moving further from the center, the strength diminishes. So quality issue? Design issue? I'd go for the more pro version or at least the bigger Harbor Freight version. But ultrasonic cleaners when working correctly do a fantastic job.
I noticed that I always clean my hands with fast orange after any heavy cleaning, and decided to try it in place of the typical degreasing products. Best thing I ever did. 5 pumps and some warm water in a cottage cheese container, add hardware, stir like a martini, rinse.
To keep the electronics in the case from getting wet/ruined, I applied Honda Bond sealant around the edge where the metal tank edge contacts the top of the plastic case. This prevents the cleaning fluid leaking inside the case. Tip was from another HF ultrasonic user/YT commenter where his got ruined & he found the fluids contaminated/ruined his electronics.
I have the larger unit. I use Evapo-rust in mine after giving bolts a quick wash in the parts washer to remove the grease. Bolts come out like new and what is most useful is I can easily spot which bolts are rusted out.
Thats exactly how I clean my hardware. I have been praying for a Shop Elf to prep hardware at night while I sleep and have it all painted and prepped for install to no avail thus far... Thanks for running this test. My secondary is a tank of diesel for oily and such but mostly engine housings
Let the water heat up. Use a couple ounces of liquid degreaser and for aluminum carburetor parts you won't be able to match it by hand. Works great for small engine carbs. Use one all the time cleaning lawnmower carbs and atv carbs. 2 or three cycles and the carbs look like new.
I've always had amazing success using these on carburetors. They've never worked, for me, on anything steel. Aluminum, magnesium, titanium, nickel plated, copper, etc all clean up like new in my US cleaner. Idk why, steel no bueno.
I have this same cleaner. You have to preheat and it will take multiple cycles. I also use dawn & vinegar water mix. Cleans primer pockets in brass pretty well. Just rinse to neutralize the acid after cleaning. It will not out perform a wire wheel. I use it to get areas that can’t be cleaned easily by hand. It’s not perfect but they do ok. Again, will not our perform the wire wheel
If you actually wanna clean those up and be fairly hands-free look at the Franklin Arsenal Tumblr. It probably holds three or 4 L capacity and it comes with stainless steel pins. Can you put hot water in detergent in along with the steel shot and I think it would clean your valves up without problem. It has a three hour timer. Now one thing I would add is make sure you don’t use anything where the steel pens could get down inside of orifices such as carburetors or something like that. But as far as cleaning your valves, I think the Tumblr with the stainless steel pens would work pretty well. I have one of them and I use for doing several hundred brass cartridge cases that I’ve picked up off the range. And my experience has been more in prepping brass as opposed to cleaning automobile parts.
I've had a vevor style off amazon for a couple of years now and I love it . 50/50 mix of purple power and water and let it heat up before I use it and It works awesome.
Nothing beats a contained blast cabinet if you have the space and a suitable air compressor. Different media are available for various materials and conditions. Aggressive rust removal media, Glass beads, Walnut shells, etc. Larger parts and tumble baskets for small parts, hardware, etc. I've had the same one for forty years. It paid for itself thirty-nine years ago.
Berrymans b12 ate the plastic on mine. B33 waterbased works well. I have the same one. Carb bodies don't fit. It's good to remember that metal against metal isn't good in a sonic cleaner. Plastic mesh or screen works well to keep parts from touching. The machine is supposed to rest for an equal amount of time it runs. You're not supposed to run them without the cover either.
before I hit play, get yourself a glass jar that fits inside the unit and use gasoline as the cleaning agent. Do it outside and use your brains - nothing cleans and degresses better than gas.
I used to always use my dad’s kerosene parts washer, just a simple one with a wand brush. Worked super well then I’d hit it with the wire wheel if needed. He also uses an ultrasonic cleaner but I never did. These days a don’t live close enough to go use his stuff as much haha
Usually it takes at least 30 minutes to have a good result. Rust and oxidation are difficult to remove, if at all. Carburetors and pistons are the main thing to clean in this device,....but then you'll need a bigger one ! The amount of solvents does not matter that much.
Some of the more expensive cleaners have multiple transducers, the part that actually vibrates, under the tank. This way every part of the tank cleans the same. This H.F. model only has one large transducer in the center of the tank, so it works best when everything is closer to the center.
A stronger solvent like purple power may give better results. We have a small one in the toolroom at my job and it works remarkably well, but we also fill it with industrial grade cleaners
I got a cheap one off Amazon years ago It's basically just a six pan in a chassis with some Engrish on it works good for the most part doesn't really do much for oxidation but grime and gunk and dirt and scuz it's great for I've put car parts gun parts watches usually with simple green or dawn Don't use simple green with aluminum in the ultrasonic it will oxidize the hell out of it, mine was about 140 I think but it comes with a lid and a cage and it's plumbed with a ball valve so you can drain it which is nice set it up next to the sink fill it and drain it into the sink kinda thing
Hi. You forgot to set the temp and let it heat up. Also. You should try simple green purple. It cleans great and doesn’t hurt the metal. You’re gonna love it though.
I bought one to try to clean up tools and parts that were involved in a garage fire. The best way was to pre soak everything, preheat the ultrasonic cleaner to about 110f and use 50/50 simple green and water.
in today's video, uncle Tony invents agent Orange
LMAO started to get concerned when he began mixing cleaners up
That, is freaking funny.
I have the same cleaner. For starters, it takes several 8 minute times before the water heats up enough. Secondly, use EvapoRust which will clean grease, dissolve rust and leave the remaining original coating on the bolts where it's not worn off. The wire wheel takes the coating off. After my ultrasonic broke, I went with a large crock pot and EvapoRust for a couple of hours. Works well.
Cool to know. I knew my crockpot could come in handy for something someday. 👍
Bad ass! I love that evaporust stuff!
What if you use hot water to start with?
@sammorgan2390 it starts working better immediately. Great idea! :)
Yep. Using the right cleaners and degreasers goes a long ways. I love my ultrasonic cleaners. You just need to know how to use it properly and what to expect, given the size of the cleaner. My large one will hold a 460 big block easily. It will get the real hard stuff off easier and faster than the smaller one.
"Marge, Palmolive?" "You're soaking in it..." If you watched a lot of TV back in the 60's and 70's you might remember the ad. I'm scarred for life!😆
Haha I remember that commercial 🤣
It was Madge, you're confusing her with her sister Marge.😁
@@Richard-or2km You are correct sir! I guess someone watched more TV than me!😆
Why are you scarred? She taught us all to use dish soap to clean our hands and our hands will be soft afterwards.
@@mexicanspec Better your hands than your mouth, I came close to that a few times. lol
I've worked with ultrasonic cleaners for many years. A good one the same size as yours would have completely cleaned your parts, using only water. Putting chemicals in yours is what did most of the cleaning. One thing to remember is you must suspend the part in the tank's bath. Like a fish on a hook. You do that with a piece of string or wire. Don't lay it down and don't encase it in a jar. It has to be enveloped in the ultrasonic sound waves for it to clean properly. Expect to pay approx. $400 for one that works correctly. What you bought is junk.
Ya, what you say is truth. A cheap one will not even clean silver.
Agree. Cheapies are crap. I bought a good one a few years back and it seems to work WAY better than this toy. Also, what Tony bought isn't an ultrasonic cleaner, it's a sous vide cooker. So there's that issue, too.
I have a couple of industrial units in the shop from a closed dental office. They rip the nastiest crud off the back of valves, make plugs look like new, etc. It's a shame to see someone get soured on the idea by testing junk. Tony: the standard test for a cleaner working properly is to put aluminum foil in it, water only, room temp; it should be full of holes in about 5 minutes. Also, that crackly sound is from the transducers not being properly bonded to the tub. Tips: for greasy stuff, automatic dishwaer detergent (cascade) is aggressive,cheap,and won't foam like dish soap. And don't put fingers in a live bath because the pressure wave will do a nice job of cleaning those pesky ligaments from your bones.
So what model would you guys recommend?
I use mine all the time for small engine carbs. Works well with the chemicals i use.
I’ve been using a Vevor ultrasonic cleaner for a a few months. It gets extremely hot and I use 50/50 simple green and water. So far it’s been excellent for me. It’s removed things off crusty carburetors that other methods wouldn’t. I haven’t tried any really nasty fasteners or anything though.
It’s my insta clean secret for carburetors on nasty old motorcycles, I love that thing
Use water in the cleaner. then put the solvent or cleaner in a jar. And put the parts in the jar. Then drop the jar in the water. (I personally like the solvent properties of 91% to 97% isopropyl alcohol, but I could forsee evaporust being a good option for certaincases too.)
How hot in Fahrenheit ?
@ they usually roll normal settings at 100 or so, can be turned up from there. I don’t make mine hotter than that but it goes quite higher
@@HipstersAndHippies I found using that method but except using a jar use a ziplock bag worked like a champ on many parts.
Not a great day for the HF ultrasonic cleaner, but an awesome day for the dog.
@@dastrayer63 very optimistic I like it lol
Better off with a nice glass bead cabinet ! easier on your fingers too
Sadly this was a poor use and review.
Bench grinders, the c hair distance between a good job and a hospital trip.
HAHAHAHAHA
Na, his hands look like mine... I grow my own gloves! It's cheaper that way.
McDonald's napkin from the glove box wrap of duct tape... back to work
Exactly why I started using a bench vise to hold the bolts/parts, and a drill with wire wheels, drum/disc Sanders etc. Easier, faster safer, and I don't have to waste time looking for whatever flew out of my hands.
Watch out for the 'eye wire'... ask me how I know. 🤓
I use vise grips on what I’m stripping as a “handle” on non threaded surfaces.
I personally find the heater is only good to maintain a temperature. I put in hot water. I use mine to clean antique blackpowder firearms. Works amazing at that.
Nothing beats the wire wheel for scraping off unwanted rust, grease, paint, or knuckle skin
Not much skin left on my knuckles. This old Aussie has been dragging them on the ground for nearly 70 years. 😃👍
Or removing metal from the threads of the bolts that's required to get the correct torque specs. Not to mention, turning the carcinogens that's in the grime into a metallic dust that you can breathe in.
But I'd rather hold my bolt with my fingers next to a 3000 RPM wire wheel instead of putting on rubber gloves and making a solution of warm water and degreaser along with a $3 set of nylon brushes.
I use simple green in mine. If you have a large volume of fluid, you can just use water and put your parts in an old peanut butter jar or ziplock baggie with the solvent . The results are the same and you don’t need to clean the basket/ container
I'm a gunsmith and I use the same cleaner with simple green to clean gun parts. Works pretty good on carbon and dehydrated oil.
I use the exact same cleaner with water, then drop in a smaller container full of vinegar to clean my stainless 22lr silencer baffles. After about two 8 minute cycles they come out looking factory fresh.
I got the larger HF version and put an old tractor carb in there for the max time and temp and when I was done there was a quarter inch of the finest silty rust dirt layer on the bottom of it. I used the wire wheel of restoration for years before but it can grab and throw a bolt across the shop and take your skin to the bone.
These things are intended to be used to clean jewelry, silverware, small parts, rifle brass, etc. They do work very well on motorcycle carburetors. Tiny air and fuel passageways sparkle. Jets and other brass parts look like new if the correct brass cleaning additive is used. So small parts, even some electrical parts, good. But no F250 leaf springs.
they do make bigger ones. but if you're crafty and can get a pressed steel tub you can buy the inducers and build your own whatever size you want.
We use simple green in ours at work. It works great on bicycle chains that looked clean.
@timdodd3897 I degrease my rusty chains then throw them in a screen basket and bead blast them on both sides then throw in the ultrasonic cleaner in Simple Green and Water at 10:1 ratio. Cleans them up in under 1/2 hour. Come out looking like new.
@jasonbusch3624 I'd like to see what happens when you put a chain checker on the chain after all that. I'd bet it's stretched and worn beyond specs. If you don't believe me now, you'll remember this conversation after you break a chain, launch yourself over the bars and have to push it back home with road rash.
@aaadamt964 I have a Park Tool chain checker and check every chain before and after cleaning. Most are on older bikes and are fine. If it was a nice newer bike with a 8,9,10, or 11 speed chain I would just put a new chain on it.
LMAO when you first dumped more cleaning powder, then the rest of it, THEN more degreaser, and whatever else😂😂😂😂
If a little is good, a lot is better! And a shit-ton is best, I guess
I was waiting for a mushroom cloud to rise up! 😂😂😂
@@Can_I_Play_With_Madness. Cajun chef Justin Wilson believed in that theory.
Mix the “wrong” ingredients and it could accidentally result in a “poor man’s mustard gas”😱
Bleach and certain chemicals are a bad combination🤮
You forgot to throw the kitchen sink into the mix.
I’ve used two of these for the past 6 or so years to clean brass for reloading. It works pretty well, just have to make sure the water you use is very hot. I also use it to clean pistols from time to time.
Edit: there are two red lights. One red light is for the heat being on. The other comes on if it gets too hot and auto shuts itself off.
I’m not surprised it didn’t work great on decades old grimy hardware. You’d need a more powerful industrial style one - I have a friend with one, $600 and it works very well on all sorts of things.
This guy embodies the American spirit…love it
Huh?
Really?
He's using a device / tool that's made to be used in the home for small parts like jewelry and electronics. For $70 more, you can get the actual tool that's made for the job. They sell a industrial version right next to this on the shelf that clearly states it's made for shop use.
I can confirm sonic cleaners work great on dirty carburetors and carb parts, however how good it works is very dependent on what kind of liquid you use. Also I have a Vevor 30L unit from Amazon that allows me to run a 30 minute cycle and has a decent heater. I’ve used two types of simple green, the purple pro one and the aircraft cleaner one and had very good results with both , also had good results with spray 9 grease off. A few other people have mentioned putting small bits in a jar which allows you to use multiple different cleaners as well as not dirty the main fluid, glass jars work best. Between cycles it’s good to use some kind of brush to agitate the dirt/grime what have you on your parts which really helps the cleaner work I find. I’ve also used it to clean snow mobile clutches as well as rusty tools, bolts etc.
Old school parts washers are hard to beat....
Exactly. For a couple hundred dollars, I thought they were actually pretty inexpensive.
And any reputable shop working on $50,000 engines like on this show could afford one instead of damaging pretty vital engine bolts.
Not to mention that there's no need to be risking a trip to the emergency room holding a 1-in bolt with your bare fingers with a wire wheel spinning at 3K RPMs.
And see all that dust around the machine, it's also in the air when it's being used. Free for everyone to breathe in.
But we're going to get upset when using a $89 cleaner that's not intended for shop/industrial use.
This unit is actually made for jewelry and electronics.
It really upsets me that someone that has been around a shop this long doesn't know how to use the right tool for the right job. And then give a bad review when the tool doesn't do the job that it's NOT intended to do.
It clearly states that this is made for small parts and jewelry for a homeowner. Not a mechanics shop or industrial setting.
I know that it might break the bank, but for $70 more you need to get the right tool for the job. That's the larger stainless steel more robust ultrasonic cleaner. It's actually made for a shop environment. I have both of these and when used correctly, they both work and do what they are made to do as stated in the instructions. Or simply on the outside of the box or description in the online store.
If anyone has a problem with this unit heating the water and it taking 8 to 10 minutes to heat it, realize that you can put hot water in it to begin with as also stated in the instructions. The heater and the unit will then maintain the heat in the solution.
I really don't understand the need for a review on an item that's been reviewed hundreds of times over the last 10 years and literally works. It's also a lot safer than anything your hands to hold a one-inch bolt from a wire wheel and creating a cloud of carcinogenic dust.
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I've had that exact one for ages and use the hell out of it for cleaning gun parts , brass cases and also for deep cleaning my airbrushes . Go get the gun parts cleaning solution from Bass Pro shops or some similar place .Mine gets pretty hot after a couple of cycles .
I water tumple brass about 100 -150 rounda at a time. Comes out shiney new.
@@edharris4202 Me too . Just make sure not to put a blued gun in with the brass cleaning solution !
The vevor 15L is awesome !!!! Fill it with water and use jars with whatever cleaner you want to use to clean your parts.
I use gas in a pickle jar for hardware, carbs etc.
if you use special liquids like evaporust or whatever. fill the cleaner with water and fill a ziplock bag with the special liquid and put the bolts in there.
The little HF one is good for small carbs... but you gotta get them HOT first. For cleaning alot of bolts, a vibratory tumbler, and some cheap triangle media from HF works wonders. Used to drop a bunch the tumbler at the end of the evening and let it run until the next morning. came out spotless.
Simple green 50/50 with water. Let the thing get HOT. Then let your parts cook for like 30-40 minutes. Another trick if you want to remove anodizing use Purple Power the same way. HOT for 30-40 minutes. Parts will look black when you take them out. Then a quick scrub with scotchbrite and all that anodizing comes right off. You don't need ultrasonic to remove anodizing, but it helps.
Hey Tony You have to let it heat up for about 10 min before you try to use it. Mine gets hot enough that you can't put your hand in it. A sonic cleaner won't do shit until it gets hot. Try letting it heat up for a few mins before you try working it. Let the heater do it's job before you put anything into it. Mine works ok and it's the same one that you have. Later
Hire a young buck that wants to learn. I was a 'Go-for' for 5 years to a master tech Vietnam vet. Learned every dirty joke and sexual inuendo imaginable. Good times.
Thanks. You saved me from buying one of those with this video. I was in Harbor Freight just last week and seriously considered buying one that day. Something held me back… I just wanted to do a little more research. Well, this is everything I needed to know. Back to the wire wheel.
Put your parts in plastic jars, filled with gas. Place them in water and use. Then you never need to clean the machine.
Brilliant 👏
I use Ziploc bags with purple power
Glass jars work better. The plastic absorbs some of the vibration
I second this. Ive had much better luck using gas in a mixing cup inside the sonic cleaner versus using an all purpose cleaner with just the sonic cleaner itself
Best thing I ever used to clean rusty small screws and hardware? A rock tumbler with Evaporust.
I have one of those, i clean hard to clean stuff with little nooks and crannies. only works well when hot. I even lay something over the top to trap more heat in. the closer to the boiling point of water the better the little micro cavitation bubbles will form and collapse which does most of the work i think.
Suspend stuff right over the transducer with fishing line, this is an acoustical thing and letting the part touch the sides deadens the sound. also the sound waves come up directly from the transducer. Test it with aluminum foil, you'll see where the effect os strong and weak by observing the damage to the foil (it will tear holes in it).
So heat it up, suspend parts, cover, start cycle, and repeat a few cycles for good measure. Carb parts, fuel injectors and stuff like that work great.
Most put in parts in Larger models with a Longer timer. Coment & Superclean work well. These allow you to clean parts while working on other stuff IE: engine bay. You NEED to watch other videos on Ultrasonic Cleaners. Most people put parts in them for 4 -12 hrs. There Not Designed to remove heavy rust. They can remove crud from Jets with the right cocktail. This size is for usually Watch & Clock restorers. Even if you don't like how well Your parts came out It still saves you time on the finish cleanup at the wire wheel.
Let these machines help you Utilize your time better. Were All Getting Older. Merry Christmas UTG.
I have one of these, it's works great for cleaning carburetors for small engines. I just use simple green, or purple power in mine. The short timer is the biggest downside to this machine. Certainly not big enough for automotive stuff, but for lawnmower, chainsaw, leaf blower, and other small carbs it is very handy. The biggest benefit to this machine in my opinion is it's small size, so it doesn't use up much cleaning products and your not tempted to reuse the dirty stuff after only cleaning one or two carbs. I have a much larger machine but it's a waste for these small jobs. You should fill it with hot water first then let the heater run for a while before you use it. Mine gets hot enough to burn me. I'd estimate it heats up to about 180-190ish degrees but I've never measured it. Filling with hot water greatly speeds up the heating process.
I always let it warm up before putting the items in. I don't use anything but water and it cleans it perfectly but I'm also using a 35litre non-bongosqueegy made version.
I've used that thing a bit. My experience is that to get a good result you can't use a generic cleaner. Most people use this to clean their jewelry or common household items. The right soap or solvent for doing those things is not the right one for cleaning engine parts. I normally use mine to clean range brass. If I were to want to clean greasy engine parts the first step would probably be to soak them in a solvent to thin the grease. Then I would probably custom make my own soap...probably a mixture of dawn dish soap with a small amount of a base like lye in it. It would take some experimentation to get the right mixture that wouldn't damage the device, would clean the part, and would be minimally hazardous to me. NOTE: You have to make sure your cleaning agent is compatible with the material. Bases like lye don't always react nice with aluminum, but might be fine with steel. Too much lye is hazardous to your skin: Be Careful!
Simple Green works, too, but is expensive. You want it cheap so you don't feel bad throwing out the lot after each cleaning.
Back in the 1970's we had a trichloroethylene hot tank that would make anything clean, just don't breathe it or get it on you💀 ☠.
We had that stuff where I used to work. It worked really good, but it was nasty stuff.
@@keithshepherd4693So is a wire wheel spinning at 3,000 RPM and using it to clean a 1-in bolt with your bare hands as you're throwing metal dust and grease into the air for you to breathe.
I've had that same exact ultrasonic cleaner for like 10 years. the first time I used it was on old diesel fuel injectors and it worked really good. now I have to run it like five or six cycles for it to get really good and hot. and I use that carburetor cleaning solution that comes in a 1 gallon bucket. it will clean a carburetor to virtually brand new condition that way. I also throw all my jewelry in it with just plain water and it does a great job. the ultrasonic cleaner powder that they sell doesn't do anything. I think it's just cornstarch or something.... I also put vinegar in it once or twice to get rust off of things and it seems to accelerate that process
Tony, I don't think you have the right tool for the right job if you can pick up the part after 24 minutes the water is nowhere near hot enough. That white crap you mixed in, probably for jewelry. I purchased a Vevor unit 10 liter it has two knobs one for the 400 watt heater and a knob for time which will run 30 minutes. If you want to get things moving faster use degreaser and boiling water water and crank the timer to 30 minutes and play with the dog. The amount of crap that comes out of a carby after I have cleaned it is surprising
I have 2 bench grinders mounted back to back on 1 harbor freight bench grinder stand. One grinder has a course and fine wire wheel. The 2nd bench grinder has a grinding wheel and a buffing wheel. I restore pinball machines and use both grinders all the time.
15:33 Hilarious 😂... let's try everything... Got any moonshine!😂
I've had this model for some time. It's a pretty weak ultrasonic cleaner. It does work but it takes the right cleaning chemical for the job and several cycles. But it does eventually do the job.
I have no idea what that powder is you're using but I use simple green most of the time. Sometimes super clean. Sometimes other stuff.
Winnie is a super athlete. Her mouth-eye coordination is superb, and obviously she's highly intelligent.
Winnie rocks.
LMAO @ 11:17 😂 It reminded me of the episode of the Brady Bunch where Bobby put in all that detergent in the washing machine and the whole place filled up with suds.
I had 2 of these, used purple cleaner and it caused the plastic on the case and cover to crack, got one replacement from HF and the second one did the same. Bought a metal unit online for a little more money and it has been fine, Vevor.
I use an ultrasonic filled with carb cleaner to clean carbs and most importantly plugged up suction screens. It will make an aeromotive fuel pump screen like new after they get stopped up. Cleans hydraulic screens like magic too. It usually takes 2-3 hours though and I only run the temp about 120f to avoid fires
I had a cleaner like that one. Had it for years. Wore it out. I never cleaned bolts in it. The wire wheel is my go to for that. I used 50/50 pine sol and water to clean carb castings. It worked well for my needs. The heat is very slow. But it does get hot. I usually would throw an old shirt on top of it to quiet it and help keep the heat in. But i still will be getting a bigger stainless one.
Dishwasher tablets are the best thing to use. I use mine all the time and its great. I use it for everything from varb parts to pistons and its awesome. Your heater isnt working, mine gets to about 140 degrees. This unit is the lowest power and will need multiple cycles for most jobs.
Winnie is a awesome dog, Uncle Kathy is a awesome wife, Uncle TonyGarage Sunday night is awesome, it seems to me you are blessed 😎😘
This is the experiment nobody will ever be able to duplicate.
I have an old parts cleaner works ok . careful mixing liquids in the garage , you could make mustard gas .
I used to have one of these, and this is not what I'd call a shop based tool, there are other ones better for the shop. I did use mine to clean motorcycle carburetors and it took a few cycles, but did work, ultimately I decided I needed a bigger, more powerful unit, I think this one is good for jewelry and the like with is much less soiled. Also, your soaking agent needs to be compatible with what you're cleaning, if it's covered with grease you need a degreaser, I use Simple Green on greasy stuff.
I really dig the angry Tony throwing a valve in there out of spite.
You need more frisbees! 🤣
You're gonna run out of Frisbees waiting on that ultrasonic cleaner
I wonder about the difference later on when it starts to corrode again. I used to work in a tool crib and when we would clean tools and stuff with the wire wheel, it would always corrode again later in the same spots because it scratches the surface a little.
Use stainless wire wheels, a minute amount of stainless transfer to the tools helps.
@@akbychoice We would always wipe down everything with oil after the wire wheel. I don't know if the wheels were stainless or not, but after a while when we would clean the tools again, you could always tell where the old spots were. The etching marks would always get corrosion in them too.
I have one it’s fixed a bunch of motorcycle carbs! Mine and friends!! Love it
Your pup is a fan of the device, mucho frisbee time!
Ultrasonic cleaners are not meant for cleaning greasy bolts. I use mine as the final cleaning step for bicycle chains. The chains are first soaked in solvent to remove the grease, then put in the ultrasonic with simple green / water. The chains look clean when they go in, but the water is filthy when they come out, you cannot get inside the chain links with a wire brush.
For a true test, put the bolts you cleaned on the wire wheel in the ultrasonic cleaner with some pinesol after bringing the ultrasonic up to temperature, you will be surprised at how dirty the cleaning liquid will be afterwards. Or clean a carburetor your way and then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner.
It didn’t work due to operator error, kind of like waxing a dirty car without cleaning it first.
If that’s what you want to clean I recommend the 6lb tumbler from harbor freight over the ultrasonic.
Thanks for testing that! I had high hopes too, but it looks like the bucket of paint thinner is the best option still.
Ultra sonic cleaner really needs a heater on it and dawn dish washing soap is though on grease so worth try
I'm not confident of your testing methodology, but i appreciate that you actually tried to read the manual at some point.
Hello everyone from Buffalo Niagara Falls NY USA 👋🇺🇲 Tony, thanks for spending the money to get one and trying it! I never had one but also thought it was a good idea 🤔. Also what's the end game of the bots and spammers below?
Been there once & got hooked on pizza logs lol. Greetings from Michigan almost due west of ya
@FLINTmitten810 hello Michigan 👋
Thank you for trying this. I WAS thinking about buying this, but I'll pass. I just got through using the wire wheel method on my LeBaron front end parts, and as usual, my t-shirt is covered in rust dust, but that's what a washing machine is for.
I use simple green, a few drops of dish soap, and distilled water. I always pre-heat first. Granted mines not a harbor freight model. I use mine mostly on firearm parts...between carbon, grease and oil , I can't complain.
I used to use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the pens I used to draw ink drawings for blueprints. The best way to clean them was to let them soak overnight and finish cleaning them the next day. That is the way I would clean things like small carburetor parts, etc if I were you. You won’t get anything clean in just a few minutes using the ultrasonic cleaner. The best use in the shop would be for parts too small to clean with your wire brush wheel.
I have the same sonic cleaner, you need to pre heat it and I use straight simply green. Also harbor freights rust remover works great in cleaning stuff.
Tony...I have one of those cleaners and the key is using a stronger cleaning solution. I have a 1947 vintage Craftsman 1/2" socket set that my late father received as a wedding gift. The sockets were slightly rusty and had years of accumulated grime. I used a mixture of undiluted Purple Power with a cup of white vinegar added. The sockets came out perfectly clean and derusted, with a wonderful 65 year patina. Oh, also PLEASE use a face shield when using that wire wheel...that's my 30 years as an EH&S professional for a rocket engine company talking...
I think the QC on these things ranges wildly. I have this same one I bought about 6 years ago and it heats up quickly to a point where you can't put your hand in it. A second or two max before it hurts. So that part is fine for my unit. The ultrasonic aspect, you can test out the strength by putting your finger in and testing where it's stronger and weaker. For me, the center is the strongest and hurts after a few seconds. Moving further from the center, the strength diminishes. So quality issue? Design issue? I'd go for the more pro version or at least the bigger Harbor Freight version. But ultrasonic cleaners when working correctly do a fantastic job.
Don't you hate it when some human insists on talking during a perfectly good dog video?
I noticed that I always clean my hands with fast orange after any heavy cleaning, and decided to try it in place of the typical degreasing products. Best thing I ever did. 5 pumps and some warm water in a cottage cheese container, add hardware, stir like a martini, rinse.
Well the dog is loving this test.
To keep the electronics in the case from getting wet/ruined, I applied Honda Bond sealant around the edge where the metal tank edge contacts the top of the plastic case. This prevents the cleaning fluid leaking inside the case. Tip was from another HF ultrasonic user/YT commenter where his got ruined & he found the fluids contaminated/ruined his electronics.
Thanks Tony! I Laughed and Laughed and Laughed!!! Love you Man!
I’ve had one of these for years and it does great.
I typically use it for g u n parts, watch bands, glasses, pocket knives, etc.
I have the larger unit. I use Evapo-rust in mine after giving bolts a quick wash in the parts washer to remove the grease. Bolts come out like new and what is most useful is I can easily spot which bolts are rusted out.
Thats exactly how I clean my hardware. I have been praying for a Shop Elf to prep hardware at night while I sleep and have it all painted and prepped for install to no avail thus far...
Thanks for running this test. My secondary is a tank of diesel for oily and such but mostly engine housings
Let the water heat up.
Use a couple ounces of liquid degreaser and for aluminum carburetor parts you won't be able to match it by hand.
Works great for small engine carbs.
Use one all the time cleaning lawnmower carbs and atv carbs.
2 or three cycles and the carbs look like new.
I've always had amazing success using these on carburetors. They've never worked, for me, on anything steel. Aluminum, magnesium, titanium, nickel plated, copper, etc all clean up like new in my US cleaner. Idk why, steel no bueno.
The old bench grinder wire wheel is still the champ!
I have this same cleaner. You have to preheat and it will take multiple cycles. I also use dawn & vinegar water mix. Cleans primer pockets in brass pretty well. Just rinse to neutralize the acid after cleaning. It will not out perform a wire wheel. I use it to get areas that can’t be cleaned easily by hand. It’s not perfect but they do ok. Again, will not our perform the wire wheel
If you actually wanna clean those up and be fairly hands-free look at the Franklin Arsenal Tumblr. It probably holds three or 4 L capacity and it comes with stainless steel pins. Can you put hot water in detergent in along with the steel shot and I think it would clean your valves up without problem. It has a three hour timer. Now one thing I would add is make sure you don’t use anything where the steel pens could get down inside of orifices such as carburetors or something like that. But as far as cleaning your valves, I think the Tumblr with the stainless steel pens would work pretty well. I have one of them and I use for doing several hundred brass cartridge cases that I’ve picked up off the range. And my experience has been more in prepping brass as opposed to cleaning automobile parts.
I've had a vevor style off amazon for a couple of years now and I love it . 50/50 mix of purple power and water and let it heat up before I use it and It works awesome.
Nothing beats a contained blast cabinet if you have the space and a suitable air compressor. Different media are available for various materials and conditions. Aggressive rust removal media, Glass beads, Walnut shells, etc. Larger parts and tumble baskets for small parts, hardware, etc. I've had the same one for forty years. It paid for itself thirty-nine years ago.
I use plain old household white vinegar and let the parts soak for few days.
Worked extremely well for me.
Most of them heat up the water
Tool time with Uncle Tony... I love it!
This must be one of those universal messages I have to answer.
A week ago I was looking into building one and here's this video.
Thanks for the push.
Berrymans b12 ate the plastic on mine. B33 waterbased works well. I have the same one. Carb bodies don't fit. It's good to remember that metal against metal isn't good in a sonic cleaner. Plastic mesh or screen works well to keep parts from touching. The machine is supposed to rest for an equal amount of time it runs. You're not supposed to run them without the cover either.
before I hit play, get yourself a glass jar that fits inside the unit and use gasoline as the cleaning agent. Do it outside and use your brains - nothing cleans and degresses better than gas.
Gunk Carburetor and parts cleaner works way better than gas.
I used to always use my dad’s kerosene parts washer, just a simple one with a wand brush. Worked super well then I’d hit it with the wire wheel if needed. He also uses an ultrasonic cleaner but I never did. These days a don’t live close enough to go use his stuff as much haha
Usually it takes at least 30 minutes to have a good result. Rust and oxidation are difficult to remove, if at all.
Carburetors and pistons are the main thing to clean in this device,....but then you'll need a bigger one !
The amount of solvents does not matter that much.
Some of the more expensive cleaners have multiple transducers, the part that actually vibrates, under the tank.
This way every part of the tank cleans the same.
This H.F. model only has one large transducer in the center of the tank, so it works best when everything is closer to the center.
Thanks for doing this… always wondered what they’d do with grease. By the way a wonderful pooch!
A stronger solvent like purple power may give better results. We have a small one in the toolroom at my job and it works remarkably well, but we also fill it with industrial grade cleaners
"Local Meth Lab bust turns out to be Automotive RUclipsr trying to get HF Ultrasonic Cleaner to Actually Clean Something" 😂
I got a cheap one off Amazon years ago It's basically just a six pan in a chassis with some Engrish on it works good for the most part doesn't really do much for oxidation but grime and gunk and dirt and scuz it's great for I've put car parts gun parts watches usually with simple green or dawn Don't use simple green with aluminum in the ultrasonic it will oxidize the hell out of it, mine was about 140 I think but it comes with a lid and a cage and it's plumbed with a ball valve so you can drain it which is nice set it up next to the sink fill it and drain it into the sink kinda thing
We have an industrial one at our shop. They do work. But the water needs to be hot.
Somebody did a test and found tide pops work the best. I did this with bolts and it worked great.
Hi. You forgot to set the temp and let it heat up. Also. You should try simple green purple. It cleans great and doesn’t hurt the metal. You’re gonna love it though.
I bought one to try to clean up tools and parts that were involved in a garage fire. The best way was to pre soak everything, preheat the ultrasonic cleaner to about 110f and use 50/50 simple green and water.