Servicing a slot car motor to improve performance Super 16D Slot Stox - Part 6
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- Опубликовано: 22 июн 2022
- The #parma S16D #slotcar #motor is finally assembled in this episode. There is quite a lot going on this time, so the video is quite long.
Here are some AMAZON links to the tools used in this video. As an Amazon Associate I earn a very small amount from qualifying purchases...
Acetone (US Only) - amzn.to/2UL80eO
Acetone (UK Only) - amzn.to/3ygjsN4
Lucky Bob's Products (UK) - Won O Won Slot Racing Products (Contact Dave Harvey - progressiveaudio@blueyonder.co.uk)
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This was a very comprehensive motor building series James. Even the inexperienced person. if they watched the entire series, could become a good builder/rebuilder of motors. The same basic steps to building a 16D motor also apply for ceramic C-cans. The dimensions of C-cans are slightly smaller. One tip I use with motor brushes is polish them on newsprint, especially the four corners to remove any burrs & irregularities. Newsprint works like the ultra-fine sandpaper, but without its price. I look forward to seeing the Slot Stox series on the chassis.
Thank you billffromnh. I race a lot of G12 C-can motors and Eurosport motors and use the same techniques with those motors, except I don’t use the diamond coated brush alignment bar with some of the plated endbell hardware.
I have seen people rub the brushes on all sorts of old paper just to polish them up a bit and remove any burrs on the corners. It seems to work well.
With the popularity of the sealed can motors here I really miss this aspect of slot car racing. On the other side, not so sure I want to spend the hours getting enough motors built for big races,
Luckily when I first started racing many years ago, I had a couple of good friends who would rebuild motors for me. I have learnt a lot from them over the years 👍🏻.
What are your thoughts of placing a phenolic washer/spacer up against the commutator? I mark the top face of my brushes using an Xacto blade against the top of the hood to show me the correct brush orientation for when I remove the brushes for checking purposes.
Using a phenolic washer at the com end, depends on what the end of the com is like. Some coms have exposed copper segments on the end so a phenolic washer would help insulate the end of the com and avoid shorting out segments with a metal washer. In this case, the com had some form of brass washer already on the end of the com that was already insulated from the com segments so I didn’t feel it was necessary.
Nice tip about marking the brushes. I have seen that done a few times before.
Good stuff James. Id be really interested in seeing the rpm difference between a 3 coil spring and a 5 coil spring (with and without shunts). S16D's really dont need that much brush pressure as the current draw is not super high. You do not want the comm to have a bare copper surface, too much friction. You want a few nanometres of copper oxide. Too high a pressure and you scrap the oxide layer off. Too little and the oxide layer becomes too thick.
Great tips as usual Fabio. Thank you 🙏
Many years ago I had Parma's bigfoots and a brand known as "golddust" brushes chemically analysed. Occupational perk. From memory the bigfoots had about 3% copper with the rest being carbon, silicon and binder. The gold dust had NO gold and NO copper! Only carbon silicon and binder. Not sure why they marketed it as gold dust brushes??
@@Fabio-ns4ql Interesting. Brushes do vary in colour quite a lot. I have found that the ones that appear to be more of a copper colour, don’t seem to work so well in the higher amp motors. There have been many batches of “big foots” and “gold dust” brushes through the years and the colours always seem different from batch to batch.
@@CleaveTech totally agree, it always seemed the darker brushes were a little faster and better comm wear
Nice job and a good watch. That motor is probably running as well as it can, now. Out of interest, how many amps does it draw after its going over?
It’s quite an old armature and the windings are not that great, but for information, it draws 2.0A at 5V.
I'm intrigued, what purpose does armature dye serve?
Armature dye just protects the exposed parts of the laminations from corroding over time and it makes the armature look pretty.
It also makes it easy to see if the armature has rubbed against anything which could mean that you may need to get it rebalanced again.
@@CleaveTech many thanks.
@@CleaveTech The armature dye also darkens when heated, so the amount of discoloration gives a rough indication of whether and how much the armature has been "cooked". This is true for any color arm dye (blue, purple, yellow, etc.), but red is preferred by many racers for this function.
Do you have a video on rim size? Big hub, Small hub, Full hub, ect.
This video covers a fair bit of what you ask 😉
Size is important but not the only thing! - Which wheel hub should I use on my slot car?
ruclips.net/video/xCWMdGYTY8k/видео.html
@@CleaveTech exactly what I wanted to see. RUclips popped it up one time and I didn’t click on it. Could never find it again for weeks now. Great video as always.
Hi. Can you give me the name of a supplier of "Cahoza 3 coil motor springs" here in the UK or other makes of springs that would fit the Parma 16D motor, Thanks for your great series of "Tech Tip£ videos.
Hi Daveatwinterslane. Thanks for watching. You can purchase all sorts of motor brush springs from Dave Harvey at Won-O-Won slot racing.
His contact details are on his website
www.won-o-won.co.uk
Probably best to phone him and discuss your requirements.
@@CleaveTech Many thanks for your quick reply. Will contact Dave Harvey.
What's the purpose of the armature dye apart from making it faster ? LOL
Thanks for asking. Here is the reply I gave to a similar question…
Armature dye just protects the exposed parts of the laminations from corroding over time and it makes the armature look pretty.
It also makes it easy to see if the armature has rubbed against anything which could mean that you may need to get it rebalanced again.
What is the Shunt wire and what is its purpose ?
Also. What are the ramifications of breaking/losing a shunt wire during a race? Will the motor still run?
I had the same question! Looking forward to James' answer :)
Great question. The shunt wire conducts the current to and from the brush more directly and effectively than just relying on the brush touching the brush hood. Although the brush is a good fit in the brush hood, it has to have some clearance so that the brush doesn’t get stuck. The shunt wire is constantly pressed against the brush by the spring so there is always a good connection.
@@7732147 If a shunt wire breaks or becomes disconnected, the motor will still run but it may not run as fast. Low powered motors such as Scalextric will not really benefit from shunt wires, but you will certainly notice the difference with anything from a Super Wasp / G12 upwards.
@@CleaveTech Thank You for the explanation and clarifying the shunt wires advantages ! I will definitely try it !!
I love your videos and the great explanations !!
Thank You !
Great video series that is very informative! What is the purpose of the shunt wires? Thanks from the U.S.
Thanks for watching. The shunt wires conduct the current from the lead wires directly to the brushes without having to rely solely on the side faces of the brush contacting the brush hoods. As the amp draw of a motor increases (shunts are not really necessary for motors that draw less than around 2A) it is surprising how much better the motor will run when using shunt wires.