Use these gaskets to stop exhaust leaks on your Ford FE engine FOR GOOD!
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- Опубликовано: 17 ноя 2022
- In this video, I talk about a must-buy product for anyone struggling with exhaust leaks on their Ford FE engine. These Gaskets have been on my rig for almost a year with no problems and I highly recommend them!
Thanks for watching!
Remflex Gaskets:
www.summitracing.com/parts/rf...
Remflex gaskets with GT bolt pattern: www.summitracing.com/parts/rf...
Ford Truck style Manifolds:
www.partsgeek.com/7cnr69q-for... 
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Great info, thx
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found it helpful!😀
Been using silicone only on exhaust manifolds for 35 years, never a leak, funny thing is I worked in a shop that did experimental gasket testing for a big name company. The rep always seemed pissed when he saw that silicone always worked better on our personal cars, race cars, motorhomes!!!
Thanks for the tip, That's so cool! 😀 I am definitely going to try it on the next engine I do! I saw someone on a forums say it worked, but I never have tried it. Also, your youtube handle is awesome!👍
@@TheBestDanielBlount Thanks!
Wow, thanks for the great video. I like your content...I just subscribed. Last year or the year before, I put a replacement exhaust manifold on my old original sixties Mercury with a 352 engine. I was so fortunate to find a manifold with a casting number that matched the original. Exactly like you said, there was no gasket installed originally, but I did put a gasket in for the replacement because - also as you said - there can sometimes be a bit of warping from use. I wish I'd known about the gasket brand you mentioned back when I did the job. I can't remember what brand I used. Thanks also for the tip on grade 8 bolts and heat properties. I can't exactly remember what grade I used. It may have been 8...the job went well and I haven't had any leaks since. I should also mention that I took out that heat riser flapper valve thing and put a spacer in its place. (I don't drive the car in cold weather.)
Thanks Kaye! That really means a lot! 😀 What kind of mercury do you have? It sounds cool!!(I have a 59 t bird with a 352 and it's the smoothest FE I've ever owned!) I dont blame you for ditching the heat butterfly, they almost never work after all these years, and I've never removed one and missed it. Of course, we never really see much cold weather down here in GA.
@@TheBestDanielBlount Hey Daniel. My Merc is a '61 Monterey sedan. Not as powerful as your T-Bird, but my 352 does run SMOOTH. The idle, however, is a bit less smooth since I've run into some minor vapor lock stuff once the weather got hot. I should probably rebuild the carb, too. Very reliable car, though. Keep up the great videos!
@@kayeninetwo3585 OH that's cool! 61 Mercs are really cool! Vapor lock is the bane of an FE's existence!😅 I wish I had a sure fire fix, but it's a hard problem to eliminate completely. The 390 in my 72 f100 had really bad vapor lock, and after a 1"phenolic carb spacer (wood works as good or better) and a heat sleeve over the fuel line from the pump to the carb it seemed to eliminate that problem.
thanks for the advice. I had a leaky 332 in a 59 galaxy and a leaky 352 in a 60 Third and a very leaky 390 in a 64 third. I just got the 352 back from the machine shop and will definitely try the rem flex even though the exhaust side of the head was machined because the old manifolds are far from perfect. I tried using the thicker Copper gaskets in the 332 without any machine work and it went from very leaky to a little leaky. the 390 is a project for next year. best
I have been plagued by exhaust leaks in almost every FE I have ever had, this has been the first gasket I have used that held up. It sounds like you have the same FE sickness I have😄! It also sounds like we have the same taste in cars! I have a 59 Thunderbird I am currently working on, and I used to have a 59 Edsel that someone swapped a 360 into🤣. Best of luck with your projects and thank you for watching the video!
@@TheBestDanielBlount yeah I also used to have a 59 Edsel ranger, it had a 292, I sold it last year after fixing it up. it's winter here in Northern Indiana so garage work mostly has to wait for warmer temperatures in the spring.
@@davidbaldwin2729 I'm lucky down here in Ga, it gets cold but not quite bad enough to stop wrenching. I'm glad to,meet someone else who appreciates a 59 Edsel! My Edsel was the second car I ever owned, got it running and driving for cheap but I sold it a couple months before my 16th birthday, that was 10 years ago and I still think about that car almost daily.
My engine builder told me to use a gasket AND high temp RTV on these exhaust manifolds, which I did. Normally I wouldn't use a combination of both but they have so far been sealed up well for ~3 years
Thats great! I've often wondered if the small gaskets could be made to work effectively. I have seen some guys going that route, but I talked to a couple guys that had bad luck with it. The application is far more important than the method though, alot of people don't pay much attention to keeping the surfaces clean and oil free I imagine that caused their premature failures. Im really happy with Remflex's product but I have to admit that I don't like that they stick out so far from the edge of the manifolds, it isn't very attractive which bugs me. 😅
On my 64 Galaxie with the 390 FE I machined the manifolds and used the thin steel gaskets with a very thing bead of High temp silicone red. That was 15 years ago and they are still holding up well.
@@jewllake That's impressive!😀 Machining is really the best way to go! A set of high end gaskets can work really well, but it's still a case of pay now or pay later.
Hello, I honestly wouldn't give a hoot how far they stick out as long as they seal properly. The overlap is there for a reason. My guess is if you've driven any car with an exhaust leak, you're damaging the flat surfaces due to the high pressure exhaust getting out. So the overlapping gasket may help in sealing any compromised surfaces. That's my guess.
Nice video. I heard to use copper gaskets because the copper is soft and would form the the surfaces.
That's a great tip! That is similar to the Remflex gaskets. They are soft and multi layer, which seems to help seal any gaps in the mating surfaces.
Yup good to know
Thanks for watching😀 I hope it helps!
Will try out the gaskets but been told not ever to use grade 8 bolts on exhaust manifolds. If/when they break you will have a hell of a time getting them out. If this is true or not don’t know but also don’t want to find out.
You make a very good point! Grade 8 bolts are probably a double edged sword. I may have hell to pay when I remove these 😅 although if I trashed this particular set of heads I really wouldn't lose that much😂. On a side note, I have had really good luck removing FE manifold bolts by simply cranking the engine and letting it warm up a bit and then breaking them free, then I wait to remove them until after the engine has cooled back down.
I've had good luck with the steel shim heat shields with the raised sealing bead. I used those when I put my new 390 together. I resurfaced my exhaust manifolds on a harbor freight belt sander. No leaks so far. Those thin felpro exhaust gaskets that never last long anyways actually cause the surfaces to warp after a while. I was told this by my exhaust guy and my machinist.
Thanks for the tip! I remember those heat shields, I imagine they would be easier on the spark plug boots also.(my wires tend to stick to my plugs)
@@TheBestDanielBlount My sparkplug wires still get stuck to the sparkplugs but not as bad as when they had leaking exhaust glasses turning the end of the wires sooty black. I also made stainless steel studs with brass nuts so the top bolts never break off again. They have been staying tight.
My old wires weren't as bad as these Accel ones, but my pertronix ignition HATES factory style 7mm wires. I like your fix for the top bolts! I never understood what ford was thinking when they made the top of the flange so small, it causes so much trouble!
@@TheBestDanielBlount I ran a cheap set of standard 7mm wires and those didn't last long. I bought a 8.5mm set of blue streak wires and those don't stick to the sparkplugs nowhere near as bad. Very surprised how high quality those wires are for the money.
I will have to get myself a set of blue streaks next time! I love the look of the ugly yellow Accel wires, but they like to stick for some reason. I had a set of NOS 7mm wires from the '70s on it to start with and they were fantastic, they are noticeably tougher than the new ones. I saved them and run them on my 59 Thunderbird because it is still running points ignition.🙂
Haha ur lucky to have all that clearance between the manifold and the wheel wells. On my '66 Tbird, I can get my fingers in between but nothing more.
I'll be replacing the passenger side log manifold with a new one soon, using the thick gasket and grade 8 bolts. Thnx for the video. Good tips.
You are right Anthony! I get spoiled on this old pickup! But I have a 58 T bird with a 352 so I know your pain.😅 Good luck on your 66! I'm glad I could help!
@@TheBestDanielBlount Oh cool, nice ride; we can share the pain - lol. Thanks !
I just looked at my passenger manifold a few minutes ago. I didn't get a warm and fuzzy looking at those rusty bolt 🔩 heads. They're not all rusty though. 👍
@@anthonyhfe6450Yeah, they are pretty scary on these FE's! I had to drill out almost all of them from this particular set of heads. One thing you can try is to soak the backsides of the ones you can see, then crank the car and let it get nice and hot, then try and break them loose. That would be hard on these T birds, so be careful not to get burned.😬 I've used that trick successfully on a couple FE's, it failed miserably on a couple more tho.😅
@@TheBestDanielBlount Thank you for the advice. I am glad that you can get to the other side of these bolts on these cool FE heads. That is a plus for the penetrating oil for sure.
Yes, I can always start it up and heat up everything. Good advice. Thanks.
Great video! What weight oil do you use?
Thanks!😄 I hope it helps! My preferred oil weight typically varies when it comes to FE engines, but in this truck I usually run straight Sae 30wt (rotella t4 if I can find it). Just make sure that whatever oil you use either has sufficient zinc content or use a zinc additive.👍 in some of the looser FE engines I've had I used 40wt. 40wt will also quiet valve train noise if your engine has a problem with that.
I have had much success without a gasket, only silicone after having the surfaces machined. They leak because of the give in the gasket. No gasket, stays flat.
Thanks for watching Alan! I agree with you 100%, Having the mating surfaces machined is definitely the best way to solve exhaust leaks on the FE. But in my case I didn't feel like taking the heads to a shop and waiting for them. Gaskets (even these) are a Band -aid at best. With that being said, I still haven't had any trouble from these gaskets.
Have your heads and manifolds surface ground if possible. Then a new metal heat shield gasket. Those composite gaskets are junk.
You guys wouldn't have leaky exhaust gaskets if you used well made thick flange headers... which also add a lot of power. Those exhaust manifolds prove Ford never intended FEs and Yblocks to spin very fast, I like torque more than HP but much prefer both.
You should have a set of hooker headers on that engine ! Sounds amazing and you pick up a couple MPG
I almost did buy some headers, but the cheapskate in me won out. The stock manifolds are without a doubt killing some serious power.😐