In order to reset the board, disconnect the negative wires from the board (large black wire, and 6 small wire connector) and wait a couple minutes. Charge or discharge the individual cell to about 3.6V. Reconnect the negative wire and connector pins.
I got it backward, after unplugging the wires from the board, reconnect the small wire connector first and then the negative battery wire. If you get a red light turn on, plug in the charger, and you will get the green light on. If you get all green light on, wait a few minutes and they will turn off.
@@Fenyutas The problem is that BMS IC bq30z55 which installed at batterie's PCB switched to 'locked mode' meant error flag was written inside its memory due to some fault conditions (probaly cells voltage imbalance). To clear this failure software for bq30z55 and programming adapter is required. The same IC is used in laptop smart batteries so you could find nearest laptop batteries recelling workshop and reset(reprogramm) your IC there.
This video is exactly what I need to get more information on. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Watching all the way from Vanuatu 😁😀👍🔥🔥🇻🇺🇻🇺🇻🇺
When you don't use the battery for a long time, usually one pair of cells are dead. There are a total of 3 pairs in P2 battery. You can revive the dead pair using a smart charger and two alligator clips, accessing from the side. There will be low voltage errors, but keep resetting and charging until 3.6 Volt is reached.
You are talking about a phantom 2 battery. This video is about a phantom 3 battery. 3-cell (6 batteries wired as 3 units of 2 batteries in parallel) verses 4 larger batteries in series. But if you can isolate the individual cell leads it may be worth a try if 1 or more of the cells shows very low voltage. It's most likely though that this is caused by a monitoring board fault.
What if the cells are swollen? I was an idiot and put 2 new cells in winter storage fully charged. Now puffed up a little and will not take a charge. Unlike other batteries, storing lipos at full charge destroys them. Sure wish this was made clear and/or the intelligence in the battery would discharge the battery to safe storage conditions. It has enough computing power in the battery PCB to land the thing on the moon, surely it can keep the battery at ideal parameters all the time.
@@gavincurtis Generally if the batteries are puffed it is an indication that their chemistry has been compromised. They will probably not take anywhere near a normal full charge and their internal resistance will be high meaning that at high current draw the output voltage will be low. If you are talking about Phantom 3 batteries then the genuine DJI ones (expensive) have a built-in self discharge to lower a fully charged battery to storage over a few days. As I too have found out the el-cheapo non-genuine ones don't seem to be so equipped. The el-cheapos used to be distinguished by having a 3 pointed slot over the level LEDs while the genuine DJI ones had a single slot over each LED. But now with refurbished units becoming available who knows what you are getting.
Thanks for the follow up. I have the phantom 2. Not sure if it has that discharge intellect or not? I am flying an antique. My batteries are the way of the recycling center now after I discharged them. Definitely bad. Saved the intelligence boards from the batteries as they manage/balance three lipo cells in series at a time for 12 volt applications (close enough for my 12 volt solar led yard light projects). Anyways, got a set of aftermarket replacement cells on order that had very high reviews as originals are apparently no longer available and age unknown. I also need to reFLASH the WiFi video controller chip via its UART port and ordered the required USB to serial adapter. No video downlink at the moment, but all uplink functions work. Supposedly the NAND Flash memory gets corrupt very quickly in the WiFi controller. I have repaired many things, including my car gauge cluster from corrup NAND flash in the past. If that doesn’t work, perfect time to let the wife know we are getting a new drone.
This problem is really pissing me off. When I started watching the video I thought you were going to give us the solution.. I had my Hope's up for a while but then obviously I was very disappointed. If you or anyone has found a solution PLEASE leave the solution here or inbox me. Thanks very much for the work you did....
I am deaf so can't hear the narration, apologises if this has been addressed. if it has been addressed can someone please post a transcript of what is said in this video. Somewhere on the DJI contol board there are two electronic devices which isolate the main terminals connecting the battery assembly to the drone from the battery cells themselves, i.e. nothing in or out via the main/large connectors, when, from memory, the battery voltage drops too far. Once these are open circuit you need specialist equipment to reset them, there is, as far as I know, no DIY reset for these devices. This is discussed on a very useful forum, whose name I can't remember, but there may be links to it on the phantom pilots forum or maybe the inspire pilots forum. It may take a fair bit of work to find the info on phantom etc. pilots as, from memory, there are only one or two individual posts in a fairly obscure thread. Having gone through some more posts about this video this maybe what "орион орионВи" is referring to in their answers to "West Limcan"
After cells charged need programming main board. Controller from board BQ30Z55 need programmed after recharging cells. See my videos how (phantom 4 battery repair), same process.
I've heard that as long as the cells are healthy (total cell voltage above 20v) then you need only reset the smart circuit, this is done by unplugging the board for 60 minutes (not just a few minutes).
Sorry but it appears you are mistaken when you say the flashing 3x LED means battery is too hot. The manual explains that it's the 4TH LED blinking 3x that shows this, and in your video it's the 1ST LED that is blinking 3x. The 4th LED is near the button. But not sure how this would translate to an aftermarket battery.
I have one of the batteries that won't even register when you plug the charger out.. I took it apart and checked it it was yeah expect it isn't it was doing the same thing unsolved or debored but the board the battery has sparked but I can't get it to hold a charge if I could get it fixed just to figure out what's wrong with it probably wouldn't put it in the drone to be on the safe side so it would not crash it from the sky if it Malfunctions.
@Fenyutas Dear, if we talk about a Phantom 3 battery (with 4 large batteries). What should I do? I must charge each one (one at a time), connecting alligator clips to each one directly to the original DJI charger and I measure that they reach 3.6 Volt and then move on to the next one. Can you explain a little more, I will be very grateful.
hi,i had the same problem with two battery from a phantom 3,i made what West limcam said and voilá they are alive and charging so i must say thank you alot West ,now i have 5 battery working thank you guys
Hi, I came across your video.... And I was surprised to see the very identical steps I took to try to fix my problem which is the same as yours... I have a PH3 original battery, it did not charge anymore nor light up. I did - exactly - what you did and after having charged with another LIPO charger all seemed to be ok.. But after a few minutes of tests I've got just the LED1 green blinking, and battery does not start anymore. But what I found, is that if I put some hot air with my hot air gun towards the negative output R13 and R14 resistors, suddenly it starts charging... until it is cool again and stops charging One hint : I noticed that I'm missing resistor R47 on the bottom of the PCB... I carefully examined your pcb in the video and it looks you are missing it also (or not ?) Couldn't it be a mounting process error ? If so we could try to understand if R47 is really missing... I have another good battery but I don't want to dissassemble it, can you check on a good one ? Edit: according to the manual, led 1 blinking should be low battery charge between 0-10% Leds 3 and 4 are used as temp and overcharge inbdicators.
It happened to me when i fully charged it from 60%!! I checked the battery before i put it to drone and it was at 100%!i put it into the drone I started the procedure and the batery lights opened for an instant and then.....DEAD! My last flight was about 150 over the sea and about 500 mt distance!the temp of the battery when I pulled it out was warm not hot! I believe it s a board problem! Something there causes short cirquit and burns something! Have you tried to bypass the board and connect the battery directly to the drone as it happens to all other drones without this smartass circuit board of the battery???
Hi, I not tried, but I think the drone not accept the nakid battery. It's an unnecessary security risk for drone, the drone will disable the take-off. But you try and describe your experience here. Thank you! Have nice day!
@@Fenyutas in my case my board is damaged but the results are basically the same the difference is I had to make a bypass, message me on fb Kashiff Collins, I think I dropped you a line
@@Fenyutas So in my case I removed the balancing cable from the board, removed the positive terminal and connected the balancing cable, the lights turn on, DO NOT TURN IT OFF, connect the positive lead to the main board then u can power the board off and place the cover back on. The drone flies well given I got 1 bad cell I get about 15 mins flight time.
I've just ordered a Phantom 3 with extra batteries, BUT, after reading this, I'm sending it back for a refund. WE as purchaser's shouldn't have to put up with this crap after paying $$$$'s for something that THEY know that THEY are at FAULT. Good on ya DJI, Won't buy their stuff ever again. Thanks for the great video anyways. Teddy
In order to reset the board, disconnect the negative wires from the board (large black wire, and 6 small wire connector) and wait a couple minutes. Charge or discharge the individual cell to about 3.6V. Reconnect the negative wire and connector pins.
Hi, Thank you, I'll try it. Have a nice day!
I got it backward, after unplugging the wires from the board, reconnect the small wire connector first and then the negative battery wire. If you get a red light turn on, plug in the charger, and you will get the green light on. If you get all green light on, wait a few minutes and they will turn off.
@@Fenyutas Did u try it? Whats results?
Hi, Yes, I tried. It doesn't work for me. Have a nice day!
@@Fenyutas The problem is that BMS IC bq30z55 which installed at batterie's PCB switched to 'locked mode' meant error flag was written inside its memory due to some fault conditions (probaly cells voltage imbalance). To clear this failure software for bq30z55 and programming adapter is required.
The same IC is used in laptop smart batteries so you could find nearest laptop batteries recelling workshop and reset(reprogramm) your IC there.
This video is exactly what I need to get more information on. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Watching all the way from Vanuatu 😁😀👍🔥🔥🇻🇺🇻🇺🇻🇺
Need to activate main board after charge cells. Board is in permanent fail after fully discharge. Can see my videos, see how to activate. 👍
teach the points to reactivate phantom 3 battery? my battery has a charge, but does not turn on the leds.
No Phantom 3 videos on your site.
When you don't use the battery for a long time, usually one pair of cells are dead. There are a total of 3 pairs in P2 battery. You can revive the dead pair using a smart charger and two alligator clips, accessing from the side. There will be low voltage errors, but keep resetting and charging until 3.6 Volt is reached.
Hi, thank you again. I learned a lot from you, I hope your advice also helps others. Have a nice day! :)
You are talking about a phantom 2 battery. This video is about a phantom 3 battery. 3-cell (6 batteries wired as 3 units of 2 batteries in parallel) verses 4 larger batteries in series. But if you can isolate the individual cell leads it may be worth a try if 1 or more of the cells shows very low voltage. It's most likely though that this is caused by a monitoring board fault.
What if the cells are swollen? I was an idiot and put 2 new cells in winter storage fully charged. Now puffed up a little and will not take a charge. Unlike other batteries, storing lipos at full charge destroys them.
Sure wish this was made clear and/or the intelligence in the battery would discharge the battery to safe storage conditions. It has enough computing power in the battery PCB to land the thing on the moon, surely it can keep the battery at ideal parameters all the time.
@@gavincurtis Generally if the batteries are puffed it is an indication that their chemistry has been compromised. They will probably not take anywhere near a normal full charge and their internal resistance will be high meaning that at high current draw the output voltage will be low. If you are talking about Phantom 3 batteries then the genuine DJI ones (expensive) have a built-in self discharge to lower a fully charged battery to storage over a few days. As I too have found out the el-cheapo non-genuine ones don't seem to be so equipped. The el-cheapos used to be distinguished by having a 3 pointed slot over the level LEDs while the genuine DJI ones had a single slot over each LED. But now with refurbished units becoming available who knows what you are getting.
Thanks for the follow up. I have the phantom 2. Not sure if it has that discharge intellect or not? I am flying an antique. My batteries are the way of the recycling center now after I discharged them. Definitely bad.
Saved the intelligence boards from the batteries as they manage/balance three lipo cells in series at a time for 12 volt applications (close enough for my 12 volt solar led yard light projects).
Anyways, got a set of aftermarket replacement cells on order that had very high reviews as originals are apparently no longer available and age unknown.
I also need to reFLASH the WiFi video controller chip via its UART port and ordered the required USB to serial adapter.
No video downlink at the moment, but all uplink functions work. Supposedly the NAND Flash memory gets corrupt very quickly in the WiFi controller. I have repaired many things, including my car gauge cluster from corrup NAND flash in the past.
If that doesn’t work, perfect time to let the wife know we are getting a new drone.
This problem is really pissing me off. When I started watching the video I thought you were going to give us the solution.. I had my Hope's up for a while but then obviously I was very disappointed. If you or anyone has found a solution PLEASE leave the solution here or inbox me. Thanks very much for the work you did....
I am deaf so can't hear the narration, apologises if this has been addressed. if it has been addressed can someone please post a transcript of what is said in this video.
Somewhere on the DJI contol board there are two electronic devices which isolate the main terminals connecting the battery assembly to the drone from the battery cells themselves, i.e. nothing in or out via the main/large connectors, when, from memory, the battery voltage drops too far.
Once these are open circuit you need specialist equipment to reset them, there is, as far as I know, no DIY reset for these devices. This is discussed on a very useful forum, whose name I can't remember, but there may be links to it on the phantom pilots forum or maybe the inspire pilots forum. It may take a fair bit of work to find the info on phantom etc. pilots as, from memory, there are only one or two individual posts in a fairly obscure thread.
Having gone through some more posts about this video this maybe what "орион орионВи" is referring to in their answers to "West Limcan"
@@williamlitlle1308 Don`t need to worry. There is nothing to hear in this video. It is totally still..
After cells charged need programming main board. Controller from board BQ30Z55 need programmed after recharging cells. See my videos how (phantom 4 battery repair), same process.
yes once board is disconnected....unable to repair
sabe como resetar a placa jampiando ela
Pity you didn't check the cells when you disconnected the balance lead. Could have been interesting.
Replace the thermister and make sure all the resistors on the board are good
I've heard that as long as the cells are healthy (total cell voltage above 20v) then you need only reset the smart circuit, this is done by unplugging the board for 60 minutes (not just a few minutes).
After removing the battery from the smart board is there a way to charge the naked battery with the drone original charging adapter ?
Sorry but it appears you are mistaken when you say the flashing 3x LED means battery is too hot. The manual explains that it's the 4TH LED blinking 3x that shows this, and in your video it's the 1ST LED that is blinking 3x. The 4th LED is near the button. But not sure how this would translate to an aftermarket battery.
I have one of the batteries that won't even register when you plug the charger out.. I took it apart and checked it it was yeah expect it isn't it was doing the same thing unsolved or debored but the board the battery has sparked but I can't get it to hold a charge if I could get it fixed just to figure out what's wrong with it probably wouldn't put it in the drone to be on the safe side so it would not crash it from the sky if it Malfunctions.
@Fenyutas Dear, if we talk about a Phantom 3 battery (with 4 large batteries). What should I do? I must charge each one (one at a time), connecting alligator clips to each one directly to the original DJI charger and I measure that they reach 3.6 Volt and then move on to the next one.
Can you explain a little more, I will be very grateful.
instablaster...
hi,i had the same problem with two battery from a phantom 3,i made what West limcam said and voilá they are alive and charging
so i must say thank you alot West ,now i have 5 battery working
thank you guys
Same problem I faced and bost up the battery no output is there is no solution🥺😒😒😒 should there is progmming steps or what ??? Help help
Helo do any souggest I’m working on it two battery I have both dead it charge by no out put what is. The
Matter
if it is too hot, led 2 will blink, but this is led 1 and led 5 are flashing, our problem is the same, do you get the answer?
Same problem here. Someone help please.
What can i do?????
Hi, I came across your video.... And I was surprised to see the very identical steps I took to try to fix my problem which is the same as yours... I have a PH3 original battery, it did not charge anymore nor light up. I did - exactly - what you did and after having charged with another LIPO charger all seemed to be ok.. But after a few minutes of tests I've got just the LED1 green blinking, and battery does not start anymore.
But what I found, is that if I put some hot air with my hot air gun towards the negative output R13 and R14 resistors, suddenly it starts charging... until it is cool again and stops charging
One hint : I noticed that I'm missing resistor R47 on the bottom of the PCB... I carefully examined your pcb in the video and it looks you are missing it also (or not ?) Couldn't it be a mounting process error ? If so we could try to understand if R47 is really missing... I have another good battery but I don't want to dissassemble it, can you check on a good one ?
Edit: according to the manual, led 1 blinking should be low battery charge between 0-10% Leds 3 and 4 are used as temp and overcharge inbdicators.
Hi great video do you have one for p4?
Next to the red(or black) temperaturewire there is a RES servicepoint. If u shortcut it briefly with GND is will reset. Own risk
would be how it explains it best could help a lot of people
the battery has to be connected to the board or not
I have the same problem with my battery exact battery I bought from eBay :(
Why does it say wrong battery when that is the one you are working on?
I think he meant “bad battery” in that segment - showing a side-by-side comparison of what a good battery does, vs. the bad battery he’s working on.
you need to connect to BMS chip with EV2300 Ti device. I think it is a BQXXX chip.
Price of battery
Better if had sound
It happened to me when i fully charged it from 60%!!
I checked the battery before i put it to drone and it was at 100%!i put it into the drone I started the procedure and the batery lights opened for an instant and then.....DEAD!
My last flight was about 150 over the sea and about 500 mt distance!the temp of the battery when I pulled it out was warm not hot!
I believe it s a board problem!
Something there causes short cirquit and burns something!
Have you tried to bypass the board and connect the battery directly to the drone as it happens to all other drones without this smartass circuit board of the battery???
Hi, I not tried, but I think the drone not accept the nakid battery. It's an unnecessary security risk for drone, the drone will disable the take-off. But you try and describe your experience here. Thank you! Have nice day!
I got this fixed
Hi, how to fix it?
Have a nice day!
@@Fenyutas in my case my board is damaged but the results are basically the same the difference is I had to make a bypass, message me on fb Kashiff Collins, I think I dropped you a line
@@Fenyutas So in my case I removed the balancing cable from the board, removed the positive terminal and connected the balancing cable, the lights turn on, DO NOT TURN IT OFF, connect the positive lead to the main board then u can power the board off and place the cover back on. The drone flies well given I got 1 bad cell I get about 15 mins flight time.
@@kashiffcollins5554 Thanks for your help!
@@Fenyutas
fix it? You can used the Kashiff recommendation?
ขั้นตอนที่1ถอดสายบาลานซ์ออกจากบรอด์ถอดไฟจ่ายเข้าบรอด์ขั้นตอนที่2ใส่สายบาลานซ์เค้าไปใหม่แล้วใส่สายไฟจ่ายบรอด์ขั้นตอนที่3อัพเดทเฟริมแวร์จบ
I've just ordered a Phantom 3 with extra batteries, BUT, after reading this, I'm sending it back for a refund. WE as purchaser's shouldn't have to put up with this crap after paying $$$$'s for something that THEY know that THEY are at FAULT. Good on ya DJI, Won't buy their stuff ever again. Thanks for the great video anyways. Teddy