There is a screen filter on the Vtec solenoid that can plug. Its something you can check in junkyards when looking for an engine. If the vtec solenoid is filled with swarf, its probably an engine to avoid.
I had something similar happen on a friend's Hyundai (1.5L 'gamma' engine), the cam phaser solenoid had been clogged by plastic-like tar, completely blocking it. Let it sit overnight in B-12 chemtool (toluene is a great solvent), replaced the molten o-rings i forgot to take off before putting it in there, and then it was more or less good as new.
Why 2oule they be gone 7nless you were putting an abrasive compound down, and brake fluid by itself is not abrasive. So again, can you explain your theory , because my opinion brake fluid can still have some lubricating properties, I would think but hell, I've seen it spilled on a hot exhaust manifold and flash on fire so fast, and it's a really Brite yellow flame.
I wanted to see what happened when they put fresh oil back in, took it for a drive then dropped that oil too (to see what the oil was like after the brake fluid had cleaned the engine) and if the VTEC still worked with the fresh oil. 🤔
It should continue working after the fresh oil bexause it seems like they were able to clean out a clog! They really should have ran fresh oil for a final test though!
I worked at an oil testing lab. Every once in a while we would get samples where a Jiffy Lube type place would put motor oil in the brake fluid reservoir. It would destroy the seals in the brake system resulting in no brakes.
A little bit of brake fluid in the oil used to be a dirty trick to reduce oil smoke, at least until the car sold. It would swell up seals and reduce how much oil got past, but not for long.
Thanks for running this experiment. Your videos are interesting. Some people here in the States use kerosene to clean an engine's insides, allowing the engine to idle. They drain, change the filter and refill with regular oil. I don't recall anyone telling me if the engine ran better afterwards.
Would be interesting to see how it does on a head gasket replacement oil change schedule from this point: replace with motor oil and then replace again after 500 miles and see how it reacts. Love to see the experimentation, thank you for sharing.
Run an engine on transmission fluid. An old idea is to add a quart of transmission fluid to old oil before you change it. Let it get hot and drain it in each oil change. It’s supposed to clean deposits so long term it stays cleaner.
I think it would have been a great idea to change the oil filter, pour brand new oil into the engine and check for oil pressure and general performance
Can you make a video when you drive a car with diesel in the oil? Like 40% diesel in the engine oil for 10 days and see how clean the engine got after that time.
@@Frrlas I have tried it to but only 10%. For 10 minutes, poor man's engine flush. But would be nice to see what would happen if you took more diesel for a longer time.
They certainly used to sell flushing oil, which was not quite as low viscosity as thinners, but I remember using it to flush out a straight six Triumph engine many years ago... Didn't make much difference as far as I remember, except it made a lot of smoke as expected.
I cleaned the lifters of a car with pure kerosene, once. Drained the oil, put in a new filter, and ran it for a timed five minutes. Drained it, new oil and filter, and the lifter noise vanished. We did it to ONLY clean the lifters, and it seemed to work! Kerosene is a very poor lubricant, that’s all we knew. As far as being a cleaner, it was good. We knew that too. We were literally trusting our luck when we did this stunt.
@@martinda7446every car I’ve bought I drain the oil, fill it up with fresh white diesel, leave it idle for 30 mins, drain, fill with cheap oil for a days use, then drain and fill with premium stuff, diesel strips sludge and all sorts of crap out the system
I have tried WD-40 in two engines, new small can divided in all cylinders through spark plug hole (total 250ml WD-40). Check with a light the drainage and refill the dry cylinders daily over 2 weeks. Then drive 20 km. And replace oil efter that. Rings estimated clean and 1-2 lifters tick is gone. The engines does not need to have oil toped up between service at all.
I've done that. Mixed with oil of course. A few ounces of thinner. Don't do it much. It will swell the seals and eventually destroy them if over done. Can reduces an oil leak temporarily though and certainly cleans it but there are better products for that.
Do a series of tests with different additives (kerosene, lacquer thinner, paint stripper, brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc) added to at a 1:5 ratio to the oil like regular additives. Put each mixture into different engines with similar amounts of deposits. Then endurance run the engines for a week and see what mixture does the best. It interesting to see the extreme end of these tests that I love watching you for, but it would be really nice to see a few tests that I can apply to my daily driver.
If you add a quart of transmission fluid to your oil on your next oil change it will clean out your engine very well. My dad told me that trick and he's a mechanic for 21 years.
@@larryloyd2989 I’ve heard it for years too and done it myself. But this channel has the unique ability to put theory to test and actually show the results side by side.
Scrub the inside of the oil pan thoroughly, and clean out the oil pickup screen and the screen inside the vtec solenoid. While the brake fluid has cleaned up the deposits, those deposits could very well get stuck to the oil pickup screen causing low oil pressure, and the vtec screen which will cause the sluggishness and no vtec.
I had the same problem with my van and no money. So I looked at all those additives but they were expensive. So I went and got the beige Castrol multipurpose grease and squeezed and stroked the tube till the engine went quiet. It lasted a month then I put more in. The oil got real dark I assume the soaps were cleaning out the engine. It worked fine for the summer. It worked real well. So cheap so every month I would add a little. In the winter I got the synthetic 5w50 in the engine. So it ran quite a few years like that.
Two fluids to always be carried. Trans fluid can be used anywhere oil is used in a pinch, but not for brake fluid. Water is best in a brake fluid system as it won't destroy seals.
Interesting.. less obvious damage than I was expecting, but I would have liked to see if there were metal shavings in the fluid, & if the oil filter was getting clogged w/ any kind of goop
I did this to a Ford AXOD transaxle, but only added 2 capfuls of brake fluid. Rough shifts cleaned up and the trans felt better after that oil change, and I got 6 months out of the car before I sold it, but the car was $150 and had only 2 gears to begin with. Would not recommend unless you're already planning on rebuilding the trans.
I bet the critical oil clearances are HUGE now that its smoked the rings valve guides cam and crank bearing, no doubt it was really hard on the metal to metal surfaces
Could have used transmission fluid as well and it's an oil so you would maintain oil pressure and have to be careful with the brake fluid being in contact with the crank, rod and cam bearings depending upon what they are made out of and if they are zinc coated.
Of course the VTEC would work as long as there is enough fluid in the system to work the actuator. The reason it's burning so much smoke is because the viscosity of the brake fluid is too thin compared to the oil and it's getting past the rings, also why you can't get any oil pressure
Even though the engine needs rebuilding and it has an automatic transmission... and it's a minivan, I still love this vehicle. What a great era of vehicles.
Adding 1qt of brake fluid is an old used car lot trick to get valve stem seals and other seals to swell up slightly and seal better. You only run it long enough to get it circulated well, then just let it sit for a few days while it softens things up. Warm it up and change oil after that. It helped on my buddy's rsx commuter car with 200k+ and leaky valve stem seals
My '07 Honda Fit has over 140k miles and is still going strong. Keep up on oil changes, throw some injecter cleaner in it every other month or so, it'll keep running for another 140k no worries. Honda makes good engines.
Fully synthetic oil has a simular effect. As an apprentice I destroyed a few neglected Honda engines. Thinking I was doing the right thing, the high detergent thin oil would get past the rings and turn it into an smokey oil burner. One of the old guys used brake fluid to decoke carburetor engines. Just hold the revs up at 2-3000 rpm and dribble the fluid down the carb for 5 mins, smoked like crazy untill you stopped with the fluid, even the plugs would come out cleaner, welcome to the motor trade🙂
I ran a small amount of brake fluid in my 92 Toyota forerunner with a 3 L V6 made it to 340,000 miles before the head gasket blue. It kept the engine clean and the lifter quiet. I ran that engine super hard all the time hitting the rev limit. I did have seals go bad on the cam. After 340,000 miles that was gonna happen anyways. This engine was also ran with vegetable oil. I definitely put thousands of miles on it with just vegetable oil in it. I did not treat it nicely and it held up.
@@Davidautofull no shit eh? You know what happens to brake lines as they age? They swell internally and eventually become one way check valves or stop passing fluid altogether.
When I was a young boy we would go to the school parking lot turn our bikes upside down, away from us and the building, we would get the back wheel moving using the peddles and drop a marble or a steal bearing between the tire and the rim to see how far we could get them to fly! One was 235 feet that was a bearing. So rig up a system to a Lada and drop steal barring's or marbles and see how far you can get them to go!
Ha ha! Smelling oil is the same as inhaling it! But I knew what you meant. Don't ever, EVER put an extension hose through the trunk , get in and roll up the windows. 😅ha ha.
I'm quite sure the main reason for the oil pressure light is a completely clogged oil filter. If the bearings were gone, you should have heard it already.
I wounder if the caustic nature of brake fluid is not 'cleaning' things up inside, hence oil pressure light going on and off.... brake fluid has more than likely removed sludge from inside of the engine
and really caused accelerated wear on rings, cylinder walls, cam lobes bearings etc. brake fluid is way too thin and not engineered to handle the compression pressures and tight clearances
Next run should be an attempt to completely clean the inside of the engine! Try several cleaning products like degreasers or oven cleaners, vinegar, detergent, brake cleaner there’s a plethora of possibilities although you might have to add some sort of clean oil like break in oil or Lucas additives or stabilizer. Obviously the engine will need some sort of lubricant or not I’d still love to see what will eventually clean that dirty girl lol
The only thing that dissolve oil sludge is drain cleaner. Caustic soda. I tried all the other products and they don't work. A couple of treatments with warm soda flushed with warm diesel and the pan gets clean. Don't let it cool down or you will get some red residue where the liquid surface was. I have never run the engine on soda instead of oil though, because the soda has particles. But I guess if you filter the particles of it can't be worse then brake fluid.
Can you make a video about putting a torque converter in manual trasmission with manual lockup. How it affect the smoothness during changing gears and power going uphill with out stalling the engine
16:10 Looking at the rocker arm rollers... I would be very skeptical about possible damage to them if using DOT4 brake fluid as engine oil for a temp cleaner. It just sounds like a very expensive demolition project. 1 hand your cleaning the engine, but on the other hand you are poorly lubricating important parts damaging them. Then you need an overhaul on your engine because you spent $400 on DOT4 brake fluid to clean it from the beginning.
A serious attempt at a repair involving this stuff is DEFINITELY gonna need a 50% oil portion or more; I would also submit my guess that a heavier oil would be a good idea.
I agree. Putting oil back in this motor and seeing if the thing acts better seeing as all that cleaning got done, it seems like it should be rejuvenated 🤔 at least so far as the things that are still capable of doing their jobs are now cleaner, and hopefully able to do the job better. 🤔
Back in the Day cars would sometimes get carboned up and develop a Knock .. Some People would use a mixture of brake fluid and water dumped thru the Carb at High RPM .. The Old School Seafoam ..We would run some trans fluid thru the carb afterwards to restore lubrication to the parts that were cleaned ..
Pull the VVTi Solenoid Module at the back of the Cylinder Head and clean out the Oil filter Mesh /Screen on same, removing any blockage in same... this should allow the Oil to flow better on that module, and activate the VVTi locking the Cam in that position when it calls for same... Put Normal oil back ...
Next time change the oil filter before the new brake fluid refill and cut both open after both are drained before the new motor oil. And compare that too.
Comrades basically Brake Fluid is a Solvent so I'm not surprised your internal parts got De-sludged... if i were you guys i would put motor oil back in the engine & drive it to see if it still smokes
Next make some motoroil tea. "Boil" some motoroil at 100°C with a lot of turmeric powder in it to see how yellow it gets. Then try it, to see if it has increased the oxidation stability and if the engine turns yellow.
I never took it apart but it's a 2005 f150 with the 5.4 that people say are junk. I have 200,000 klm on it and use it daily and it doesn't have the ticking or smoking problem I see with others here with the same or less miles. So something is keeping it clean, I dot us any other treatment in it so either I have been super lucky or the transmission fluid is still working, I first seen a guy do this trick back in the 70s and ive been doing it ever since, Just like putting water in the old carbs to clean the motor and other parts of the system worked great back then,
In the same manner as putting lighter oil like 5w-40 in some engines like the 4.L GM I6 gasoline engine there may not be enough oil on #1 bearing. I lost my #1 con-rod after 1000Km and the engine went to scrap. It may also damage oil seals. If you have an engine that has that much crud in it, it may be better to fill the case with diesel to clean then flush and put fresh oil and filter. Good Luck. I would put one or two liters of heavy oil, like diff to keep pressure up while fluid circulates and dissolves residue.
6:43 It is hilarious watching a guy wearing a NY hat with a Chicago t-shirt...while crazy Ivan drives an car with an engine lubricated with brake fluid. Sovetsky Soyuz.
My Silverado brake master cylinder leaked a bunch of brake fluid into the booster and got sucked into engine. So I replaced Master cylinder and booster along with a oil change and filter. Still a bit of smoke out tailpipe. How long will it take for to smoke to clear up?
How about taking the gear lube out of a transmission gearbox, clean it out with some solvent, and dry it out really good. Then put corn syrup into the gearbox and see how long it lasts. For the engine??? How about making your own lubricant mix? Use a light solvent like naphtha to dissolve tar to a reasonable consistency, and see how long it will last at operating temperatures?
I just wanna know why the odyssey never looked that cool here in the US ;_; I had a first-generation Fit back in the day, and the first-gen odyssey looked like the same thing, only bigger... this looks like an original odyssey with a fantastic facelift, and that purple is absolutely killing me, I want it.
That residue has to be some kind of stop leak agent, that ended up mixing with the normal contaminants found in engines, and plasticizing. That appears to be a D-series Honda engine, which means that there is no plastic inside the engine anywhere. Oil pump, pickup, carriage, it's all made of metals. Timing belt engine means there's no chain guide to disintegrate like a GM.
Did they ever put a D series in an Odyssey? I think the smallest they got were the 4 cylinder F-series but I think this is a J-series... still a timing belt either way.
@@JJFX- Not sure 100%, but I know different markets get different engine body combos, in India there's a dual cam d-series (weird right?). The J-series is an american designed engine, so I'm not sure how many non USDM markets got that guy. That valve cover looks like a d-series cover. It appears to be a D16Y8, except the oil pans on those guys should be aluminum (well, USDM and JDM at least). It's not a D15B7/B7/Z6 because of the spark plug tubes, those guys had flat seals with the tubes as integral parts of the head (not pressed in steel tubes). I know there are EUDM engines that I'm not very familiar with.
@@TheMostUt You're definitely right about not being a J type... Now that I've really looked it, I see what you mean but it sure seems like an F-series VTEC to me. Probably some variant of the F23A they were throwing in these back then.
@@JJFX- You know, I totally forgot about the Fs having that valve cover shape, I was thinking they were more similar to the Bs (I just looked it up). It's funny how similar many of these engines look. Looking closer at the video, it does look like a 5 bolt cover, which would be D16/D17, F series (maybe H too?). Here's me not knowing things I'm talking about, oops. lol
@@TheMostUt Well it's pretty crazy how many engine variants Honda has in general, I don't think anyone can keep track of all of them. From what I can tell they essentially turned an Accord into some 'sporty' Odysseys with a few early 2000's international models.
Yeah, I wanted to see what happened when they put fresh oil back in, took it for a drive then dropped that oil too (to see what the oil was like after the brake fluid had cleaned the engine) and if the VTEC still worked with the fresh oil. 🤔
Put regular oil back in. See how it acts.
That should have been done to wrap up the video IMO
@@jesses1589 I like how they actually took it out on road test. very good!
It probably would have been fine but it seems they probably took some life off the engine.
15-40? If regular oil doesn’t shut the light off
@@digi3218possibly but it may burn less oil if the oil rings were clogged up and not moving around properly.
These guys have the craziest ideas for cars bur it's cool to see them expermenting
Essentially car science
These are all the things me and my friends would talk about in middle school at the lunch table. Lol
Do not try this at home! You’ll blow your engine!
Diesel fuel will clean it for sure
I love how the BMI Russian guy translates in a walkie talkie voice when they are talking to each other in the cars 😂 Nice touch! ❤👍
I _think_ they were chatting via cellphones, but, either way, I agree! A very nice touch and worthy of recognition! 👍👍
💩 👁️ 🇷🇺
BMI russian guy 👍
He's the hero we need but don't deserve
Nobody gets the, BM as in bowel movement 💩, I as in eye 👁️, Russian 🇷🇺, joke?
There is a screen filter on the Vtec solenoid that can plug. Its something you can check in junkyards when looking for an engine. If the vtec solenoid is filled with swarf, its probably an engine to avoid.
Yeah man, always avoid the swarf. Otherwise, 'May the Swarf be with you'.
I hate it when my vtecs all swarfy
I had something similar happen on a friend's Hyundai (1.5L 'gamma' engine), the cam phaser solenoid had been clogged by plastic-like tar, completely blocking it. Let it sit overnight in B-12 chemtool (toluene is a great solvent), replaced the molten o-rings i forgot to take off before putting it in there, and then it was more or less good as new.
I’ve seen the same thing with GM VVT solenoids. People don’t change their oil, and it fills up with sludge, or worse yet, swarf.
oh god how could I have forgotten about swarf?! @@5roundsrapid263
A compression test before and after would have been interesting
Same goes for an IQ test.
@@joanfrellburg4901jeez
Pull the spark plugs and check the cylinder walls.
...And the bearings!
The hone marks are probably 100% gone.
Why 2oule they be gone 7nless you were putting an abrasive compound down, and brake fluid by itself is not abrasive. So again, can you explain your theory , because my opinion brake fluid can still have some lubricating properties, I would think but hell, I've seen it spilled on a hot exhaust manifold and flash on fire so fast, and it's a really Brite yellow flame.
@@Tom_Baldwin brake fluid isn't a lubricant, of course there is going to be more wear
I wanted to see what happened when they put fresh oil back in, took it for a drive then dropped that oil too (to see what the oil was like after the brake fluid had cleaned the engine) and if the VTEC still worked with the fresh oil. 🤔
I agree
It should continue working after the fresh oil bexause it seems like they were able to clean out a clog! They really should have ran fresh oil for a final test though!
Me too, I was surprised when the video ended. It's like a serial on the TV when they end on a cliff hanger.
I worked at an oil testing lab. Every once in a while we would get samples where a Jiffy Lube type place would put motor oil in the brake fluid reservoir. It would destroy the seals in the brake system resulting in no brakes.
A little bit of brake fluid in the oil used to be a dirty trick to reduce oil smoke, at least until the car sold. It would swell up seals and reduce how much oil got past, but not for long.
How much for a 5 qt crankcase? 1 qt fluid plus 4 qts oil?
I don't see how that makes sense. The smoke in the exhaust is from leakage past the rings, which aren't rubber and can't swell.
@@heemlo649 Frequently oil consumption is due to worn or dried out valve seals.
@@jaredkennedy6576 Oh right I forgot about that. Thanks.
Thanks for running this experiment. Your videos are interesting. Some people here in the States use kerosene to clean an engine's insides, allowing the engine to idle. They drain, change the filter and refill with regular oil. I don't recall anyone telling me if the engine ran better afterwards.
You guys just keep the fun going on, now change the filter and put fresh oil in and test drive it. this is down to earth good fun kudos guys.
Would be interesting to see how it does on a head gasket replacement oil change schedule from this point: replace with motor oil and then replace again after 500 miles and see how it reacts. Love to see the experimentation, thank you for sharing.
Try ATF next time, I use it on very dirty engines to flush out the sludge without hurting any critical components. Love your channel.
Run an engine on transmission fluid. An old idea is to add a quart of transmission fluid to old oil before you change it. Let it get hot and drain it in each oil change. It’s supposed to clean deposits so long term it stays cleaner.
@@79huddyused to…
Til you ran out of pathfinders😂😂
@@fastinradfordable cleaned lifters? I guess? Who knows.
You go ahead and do that.
trans fluid has less detergents than oil by a lot...transmission fluid doesn't have to deal with combustion gases
Tryed that on my girlfiends '08 honda accord. Works just as good if not better than seafoam
I think it would have been a great idea to change the oil filter, pour brand new oil into the engine and check for oil pressure and general performance
My thoughts also. I suspect that all rubber seals are pretty much destroyed.
A true testament to how good Hondas engines really are.
Old hondas
@@AVIMANHWA0Hondas have been solid up til the very recent 1.5L turbo.
I'd like to see it filled baup with oil and see if it smokes less now being your valve seals are conditioned. Wonder video as always.
9:17 Guy in passenger seat is like : "This is a bad idea. WTF am I doing here..?"
2:50. Anybody notice the smile face on his light bulb 😂
I appreciate that they even translated through the radio for extra immersion instead of just voiceover. Nice touch
cut the oil filter to see what inside ;)
Can you make a video when you drive a car with diesel in the oil? Like 40% diesel in the engine oil for 10 days and see how clean the engine got after that time.
I have a 1975 gmc truck 4x4 gasoline . The only oil I use is 15-40w diesel oil.
I did this almost as you say in my volvo b230f. it was bad before, and after it was like new inside.
@bobbygreenjr4114 that's not what he means 😂. he wants to put diesel fuel in the oil.
it'll work that's an old farmer trick my grandpa did it .
@@Frrlas I have tried it to but only 10%. For 10 minutes, poor man's engine flush. But would be nice to see what would happen if you took more diesel for a longer time.
I would like to see the same experiment but use lacquer thinner. Only don't drive it, it'll surely die, but try to clean the engine without killing it
They certainly used to sell flushing oil, which was not quite as low viscosity as thinners, but I remember using it to flush out a straight six Triumph engine many years ago... Didn't make much difference as far as I remember, except it made a lot of smoke as expected.
I cleaned the lifters of a car with pure kerosene, once.
Drained the oil, put in a new filter, and ran it for a timed five minutes.
Drained it, new oil and filter, and the lifter noise vanished.
We did it to ONLY clean the lifters, and it seemed to work!
Kerosene is a very poor lubricant, that’s all we knew.
As far as being a cleaner, it was good. We knew that too.
We were literally trusting our luck when we did this stunt.
@@martinda7446every car I’ve bought I drain the oil, fill it up with fresh white diesel, leave it idle for 30 mins, drain, fill with cheap oil for a days use, then drain and fill with premium stuff, diesel strips sludge and all sorts of crap out the system
I have tried WD-40 in two engines, new small can divided in all cylinders through spark plug hole (total 250ml WD-40). Check with a light the drainage and refill the dry cylinders daily over 2 weeks. Then drive 20 km. And replace oil efter that. Rings estimated clean and 1-2 lifters tick is gone. The engines does not need to have oil toped up between service at all.
I've done that. Mixed with oil of course. A few ounces of thinner. Don't do it much. It will swell the seals and eventually destroy them if over done. Can reduces an oil leak temporarily though and certainly cleans it but there are better products for that.
Do a series of tests with different additives (kerosene, lacquer thinner, paint stripper, brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc) added to at a 1:5 ratio to the oil like regular additives. Put each mixture into different engines with similar amounts of deposits. Then endurance run the engines for a week and see what mixture does the best.
It interesting to see the extreme end of these tests that I love watching you for, but it would be really nice to see a few tests that I can apply to my daily driver.
Acetone, ketone
If you add a quart of transmission fluid to your oil on your next oil change it will clean out your engine very well. My dad told me that trick and he's a mechanic for 21 years.
@@larryloyd2989 I’ve heard it for years too and done it myself. But this channel has the unique ability to put theory to test and actually show the results side by side.
Good job man
Hello from Florida USA
Much respect to you
Scrub the inside of the oil pan thoroughly, and clean out the oil pickup screen and the screen inside the vtec solenoid. While the brake fluid has cleaned up the deposits, those deposits could very well get stuck to the oil pickup screen causing low oil pressure, and the vtec screen which will cause the sluggishness and no vtec.
I had the same problem with my van and no money. So I looked at all those additives but they were expensive. So I went and got the beige Castrol multipurpose grease and squeezed and stroked the tube till the engine went quiet. It lasted a month then I put more in. The oil got real dark I assume the soaps were cleaning out the engine. It worked fine for the summer. It worked real well. So cheap so every month I would add a little. In the winter I got the synthetic 5w50 in the engine. So it ran quite a few years like that.
Two fluids to always be carried. Trans fluid can be used anywhere oil is used in a pinch, but not for brake fluid. Water is best in a brake fluid system as it won't destroy seals.
Dude the coms translation always gets me😂 such a master of the voice over craft
You should of checked compression before and after!
Interesting.. less obvious damage than I was expecting, but I would have liked to see if there were metal shavings in the fluid, & if the oil filter was getting clogged w/ any kind of goop
Swarf in the oil filter and oil pan.
Hi from America and I always find your video entertaining. You just do anything what most of people wanted to do and couldn’t afford LOL.
I did this to a Ford AXOD transaxle, but only added 2 capfuls of brake fluid.
Rough shifts cleaned up and the trans felt better after that oil change, and I got 6 months out of the car before I sold it, but the car was $150 and had only 2 gears to begin with. Would not recommend unless you're already planning on rebuilding the trans.
I bet the critical oil clearances are HUGE now that its smoked the rings valve guides cam and crank bearing, no doubt it was really hard on the metal to metal surfaces
Could have used transmission fluid as well and it's an oil so you would maintain oil pressure and have to be careful with the brake fluid being in contact with the crank, rod and cam bearings depending upon what they are made out of and if they are zinc coated.
Of course the VTEC would work as long as there is enough fluid in the system to work the actuator. The reason it's burning so much smoke is because the viscosity of the brake fluid is too thin compared to the oil and it's getting past the rings, also why you can't get any oil pressure
Put the brake fluid into a radiator instead of water. Brake fluid is heatproof too... Who knows what happens
I've put engine oil in the cooling system dirt track racing. Does not boil when the rad plugs with dirt. Your hoses do go for shit after a while.
@@davidhenri2722 thats wild. But good idea. Back in the say they used high proof alcohol
Probably would overheat as I assume brake fluid doesn't pick up as much heat.
@@jwalster9412 that is correct. nothing cheap beats water for specific heat.
@@slec-wz1dbHell, there's hardly any practical expensive alternatives that beat water for this.
I never thought of it but now that you mention it, yes, I want to see what happens.
Even though the engine needs rebuilding and it has an automatic transmission... and it's a minivan, I still love this vehicle. What a great era of vehicles.
I was hoping you'd put oil back in the engine and see how it did on its performance and oil burning after the brake fluid.
Me too
Damn it clean the hell out of it I wonder how it will run with oil now way to go y'all just knew it will get it fire
Adding 1qt of brake fluid is an old used car lot trick to get valve stem seals and other seals to swell up slightly and seal better.
You only run it long enough to get it circulated well, then just let it sit for a few days while it softens things up. Warm it up and change oil after that. It helped on my buddy's rsx commuter car with 200k+ and leaky valve stem seals
just use stop oil leak additives, they help a little too
My '07 Honda Fit has over 140k miles and is still going strong. Keep up on oil changes, throw some injecter cleaner in it every other month or so, it'll keep running for another 140k no worries. Honda makes good engines.
get some crude oil, do a basic filtering of said crude oil to reduce it to just liquid particles, run the engine with crude oil in the sump.
Fully synthetic oil has a simular effect. As an apprentice I destroyed a few neglected Honda engines. Thinking I was doing the right thing, the high detergent thin oil would get past the rings and turn it into an smokey oil burner.
One of the old guys used brake fluid to decoke carburetor engines. Just hold the revs up at 2-3000 rpm and dribble the fluid down the carb for 5 mins, smoked like crazy untill you stopped with the fluid, even the plugs would come out cleaner, welcome to the motor trade🙂
Used transmission fluid next as it’s also detergent, so it might work really well to clean the motor internals
It does have already done it my dad told me about that trick a long time ago
I ran a small amount of brake fluid in my 92 Toyota forerunner with a 3 L V6 made it to 340,000 miles before the head gasket blue. It kept the engine clean and the lifter quiet. I ran that engine super hard all the time hitting the rev limit. I did have seals go bad on the cam. After 340,000 miles that was gonna happen anyways. This engine was also ran with vegetable oil. I definitely put thousands of miles on it with just vegetable oil in it. I did not treat it nicely and it held up.
I wanted to see how much it smokes after putting oil back in it. Maybe the rings got freed and it may seal better.
Keep it rockin guys 🎸
Bottoms Up. Other than the paint, what ever happened to the head gasket, and Valve covers.
I wonder what it does to rubber gaskets and parts in the engine.
Nothing probably
Brake fluid can cause significant softening/swelling of rubber seals, depending on what exact compound they're made of.
@@phantom240 the brake system uses rubber seals.
@@Davidautofull And engine oil damages those.
@@Davidautofull no shit eh? You know what happens to brake lines as they age? They swell internally and eventually become one way check valves or stop passing fluid altogether.
Would have liked to see what the bearings looked like after the experiment.
I seriously thought that engine would have blown up!
When I was a young boy we would go to the school parking lot turn our bikes upside down, away from us and the building, we would get the back wheel moving using the peddles and drop a marble or a steal bearing between the tire and the rim to see how far we could get them to fly! One was 235 feet that was a bearing. So rig up a system to a Lada and drop steal barring's or marbles and see how far you can get them to go!
Ha ha! Smelling oil is the same as inhaling it! But I knew what you meant. Don't ever, EVER put an extension hose through the trunk , get in and roll up the windows. 😅ha ha.
I'm quite sure the main reason for the oil pressure light is a completely clogged oil filter. If the bearings were gone, you should have heard it already.
I wounder if the caustic nature of brake fluid is not 'cleaning' things up inside, hence oil pressure light going on and off.... brake fluid has more than likely removed sludge from inside of the engine
and really caused accelerated wear on rings, cylinder walls, cam lobes bearings etc. brake fluid is way too thin and not engineered to handle the compression pressures and tight clearances
Next run should be an attempt to completely clean the inside of the engine! Try several cleaning products like degreasers or oven cleaners, vinegar, detergent, brake cleaner there’s a plethora of possibilities although you might have to add some sort of clean oil like break in oil or Lucas additives or stabilizer. Obviously the engine will need some sort of lubricant or not I’d still love to see what will eventually clean that dirty girl lol
2:58 "VTEC gets a golden shower from 4 mechanics"
The only thing that dissolve oil sludge is drain cleaner. Caustic soda. I tried all the other products and they don't work. A couple of treatments with warm soda flushed with warm diesel and the pan gets clean. Don't let it cool down or you will get some red residue where the liquid surface was. I have never run the engine on soda instead of oil though, because the soda has particles. But I guess if you filter the particles of it can't be worse then brake fluid.
Can you make a video about putting a torque converter in manual trasmission with manual lockup. How it affect the smoothness during changing gears and power going uphill with out stalling the engine
16:10 Looking at the rocker arm rollers... I would be very skeptical about possible damage to them if using DOT4 brake fluid as engine oil for a temp cleaner.
It just sounds like a very expensive demolition project. 1 hand your cleaning the engine, but on the other hand you are poorly lubricating important parts damaging them.
Then you need an overhaul on your engine because you spent $400 on DOT4 brake fluid to clean it from the beginning.
A serious attempt at a repair involving this stuff is DEFINITELY gonna need a 50% oil portion or more; I would also submit my guess that a heavier oil would be a good idea.
I agree. Putting oil back in this motor and seeing if the thing acts better seeing as all that cleaning got done, it seems like it should be rejuvenated 🤔 at least so far as the things that are still capable of doing their jobs are now cleaner, and hopefully able to do the job better. 🤔
Back in the Day cars would sometimes get carboned up and develop a Knock .. Some People would use a mixture of brake fluid and water dumped thru the Carb at High RPM .. The Old School Seafoam ..We would run some trans fluid thru the carb afterwards to restore lubrication to the parts that were cleaned ..
Was waiting for standard oil test after cleaning, that should be interesting.
I didn’t think I would make it to the end but this was super interesting.
Pull the VVTi Solenoid Module at the back of the Cylinder Head and clean out the Oil filter Mesh /Screen on same, removing any blockage in same... this should allow the Oil to flow better on that module, and activate the VVTi locking the Cam in that position when it calls for same... Put Normal oil back ...
It's amazing the bearings didn't take a crap lol
I think the paint has clogged the oil filter, explaining why higher rpm is needed for adequate oil pressure
Try running some coolant in the oil to clean the engine. Idk if youve done it before. But like 1/4 coolant or 1/2. Cause the coolant desteoys carbon.
The crankshaft oil clearance is also clean and larger
Try using 4 quarts of motor oil and 1 quart of melted candle wax. See how it runs. 👍
My grandpa always added a quart of diesel into the oil and ran it until it got hot before changing the oil if he wanted to clean out gunk.
Brake fluid is a great cleaner for rubber and plastic hoses under the hood. Renews rubber quite well. Burns like hell when it gets in a cut hahahaha
You guys should try a bunch of Brake clean Fluid in the engine and see how clean it gets.
Really harmful to breathe and evaporates quick
Diesel does a good cleaning job too with one quart of oil. Just let it idle for 10 mins, drain and add oil.
Next time change the oil filter before the new brake fluid refill and cut both open after both are drained before the new motor oil. And compare that too.
Comrades
basically Brake Fluid is a Solvent so I'm not surprised your internal parts got De-sludged... if i were you guys i would put motor oil back in the engine & drive it to see if it still smokes
Next make some motoroil tea. "Boil" some motoroil at 100°C with a lot of turmeric powder in it to see how yellow it gets. Then try it, to see if it has increased the oxidation stability and if the engine turns yellow.
I put 1 liter of trans fluid in the oil a day or 3 before I do the oil change because the trans fluid cleans the system,
Did it clean it like how the head turned out in this video?
I never took it apart but it's a 2005 f150 with the 5.4 that people say are junk.
I have 200,000 klm on it and use it daily and it doesn't have the ticking or smoking problem I see with others here with the same or less miles. So something is keeping it clean, I dot us any other treatment in it so either I have been super lucky or the transmission fluid is still working, I first seen a guy do this trick back in the 70s and ive been doing it ever since, Just like putting water in the old carbs to clean the motor and other parts of the system worked great back then,
se prendia la luz de aceite por el filtro tapado de la basura de aceite viejo ,tendrin que mostrar el filtro de aceite cuanto residuo junto
Cool video although most likley that brake fluid is gonna eat away and swell the rubber seals in the enigne
Best car channel, ever... Sink into that Knowing...
I was looking for drones when you was out driving.
In the same manner as putting lighter oil like 5w-40 in some engines like the 4.L GM I6 gasoline engine there may not be enough oil on #1 bearing. I lost my #1 con-rod after 1000Km and the engine went to scrap. It may also damage oil seals. If you have an engine that has that much crud in it, it may be better to fill the case with diesel to clean then flush and put fresh oil and filter.
Good Luck.
I would put one or two liters of heavy oil, like diff to keep pressure up while fluid circulates and dissolves residue.
Alot of quik fix in bottles use mix of break fluid and other stuff
maybe you clean the oil pan and anything else easy to clean and then replace valve seals and run it on full transmission fluid and see what happens
6:43 It is hilarious watching a guy wearing a NY hat with a Chicago t-shirt...while crazy Ivan drives an car with an engine lubricated with brake fluid. Sovetsky Soyuz.
My Silverado brake master cylinder leaked a bunch of brake fluid into the booster and got sucked into engine. So I replaced Master cylinder and booster along with a oil change and filter. Still a bit of smoke out tailpipe. How long will it take for to smoke to clear up?
Solid!
Top KEK!
peace be with you.
How about taking the gear lube out of a transmission gearbox, clean it out with some solvent, and dry it out really good.
Then put corn syrup into the gearbox and see how long it lasts.
For the engine???
How about making your own lubricant mix?
Use a light solvent like naphtha to dissolve tar to a reasonable consistency, and see how long it will last at operating temperatures?
I just wanna know why the odyssey never looked that cool here in the US ;_; I had a first-generation Fit back in the day, and the first-gen odyssey looked like the same thing, only bigger... this looks like an original odyssey with a fantastic facelift, and that purple is absolutely killing me, I want it.
This is the Japan domestic version
First Gen Odyssey in the US was a rebadged Isuzu.
The smoke is probably etching the cars paint behind them 😂😂😂
Try transmission fluid wornder how the engine would run
You should do it again but fill it with Seafoam instead!
Now that it is clean, I wonder what got trapped in the oil filter.
They drive on the right side of the road, yet they have right hand drive cars. That ought to make interesting left hand turns on a busy street.
Naked aluminum blocks would be absolutely destroyed, but with an all steel system would allow it to run very hot ❤
That residue has to be some kind of stop leak agent, that ended up mixing with the normal contaminants found in engines, and plasticizing. That appears to be a D-series Honda engine, which means that there is no plastic inside the engine anywhere. Oil pump, pickup, carriage, it's all made of metals. Timing belt engine means there's no chain guide to disintegrate like a GM.
Did they ever put a D series in an Odyssey? I think the smallest they got were the 4 cylinder F-series but I think this is a J-series... still a timing belt either way.
@@JJFX- Not sure 100%, but I know different markets get different engine body combos, in India there's a dual cam d-series (weird right?). The J-series is an american designed engine, so I'm not sure how many non USDM markets got that guy. That valve cover looks like a d-series cover. It appears to be a D16Y8, except the oil pans on those guys should be aluminum (well, USDM and JDM at least). It's not a D15B7/B7/Z6 because of the spark plug tubes, those guys had flat seals with the tubes as integral parts of the head (not pressed in steel tubes). I know there are EUDM engines that I'm not very familiar with.
@@TheMostUt You're definitely right about not being a J type... Now that I've really looked it, I see what you mean but it sure seems like an F-series VTEC to me. Probably some variant of the F23A they were throwing in these back then.
@@JJFX- You know, I totally forgot about the Fs having that valve cover shape, I was thinking they were more similar to the Bs (I just looked it up). It's funny how similar many of these engines look. Looking closer at the video, it does look like a 5 bolt cover, which would be D16/D17, F series (maybe H too?). Here's me not knowing things I'm talking about, oops. lol
@@TheMostUt Well it's pretty crazy how many engine variants Honda has in general, I don't think anyone can keep track of all of them. From what I can tell they essentially turned an Accord into some 'sporty' Odysseys with a few early 2000's international models.
and now put some good oil in it and see if everything is fixed..?
That's what I wanted to see. I have an odyssey myself with 255k miles and this video has me wondering if I should try this
compression check too would be interesting
Yeah, I wanted to see what happened when they put fresh oil back in, took it for a drive then dropped that oil too (to see what the oil was like after the brake fluid had cleaned the engine) and if the VTEC still worked with the fresh oil. 🤔