I'm in Maine so I feel ya. It used to look worse, but last fall I put it on the lift and cleaned it all up in good shape before spraying the fluid film to it. A wire brush and hose cleaned it up good. That's why it looks nice.
Did you end up ruining the clips trying to get the piece outta the high pressure line? I'm having same problem trying to get that rusted peice out with those clips holding it in there
I just did a fuel pump in my 2010 GMC ext cab. I cant believe my original pump lasted that long up in Michigan. I ended up replacing the gas lines, lock ring and pump. Just so every thing is not going to give me a surprise, should of done that when I had the tank out moment. After getting everything put back in the tank I sprayed the top of the pump with fluid film to hopefully buy it a little time.
Have any trouble w/ the gas tank strap bolts?Mine is seriosul crusty down there, scared to try spinning them out especially the front one which you can't seem to access the thread sides to spray w/ wd-40 or anything.. thanks
I'm in the rust belt in Midwest just finished mine in 2013 silverado. Did the tip the bed method , worked OK. I had to splice main fuel line, put a new quick connector and splice kit. Everything else was OK. And I put a rubber cover over pump and fuel tank when finished. You can run it and actually check everything is good . Then drop bed ɓack down hook wiring back up.
Is the main fuel line the one with 90° metal elbow? If so, that's the one I'm having trouble with too. The fuel pump outlet broke off inside that connector on mine and now I'm trying to hunt down a replacement fuel line but no one has them. How did you go about splicing your line and what did you use? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm desperate and need my truck running again.
@@Street-Shred82 The supply line (fuel pump to engine) is the one that has a single connection, the forward most one. It sounds like the one you are describing. To get by with it for a few days until I could get a new fuel line, I used a piece of rubber fuel line and connected it with hose clamps. 17 minutes in to the video. I mis-stated it as return line.
that line is the high pressure line feeder line NOT a return line .I would wait to replacement line is untanned .These systems are a non return line system .
Imagine how simple the job would be if the engineers knew what an access panel was. I may have to do this soon myself, I'm getting a long crank and everything that could be causing it is pretty much right there on the pump assembly.
Do you know what the difference is with the pumps on rockauto as far as bed lengths?? So many different pumps and for different bed lengths plus some say they may require a wire harness?? '08 Silverado 1500, 5.3L Vin code J, extended cab with the middle bed length, not short box or long box.
2007 Classic Silverado 143.5" wheel base Extended cab (6.5 foot bed aka standard bed) I just bought a Genuine GM OE from Autozone with limited lifetime warranty. P/N: MU1415
Watch the overall height of pump too . Some shorter than others. Match them up at parts store, avoid splicing electrical connections if possible . Make sure correct connections are same as yours.
Awesome detailed tutorial Thanks for sharing your skills 👍
You're welcome. Just trying to help somebody out.
Dang I wish my 2012 looked that clean lol I’m in Canada so the winters and rust are something fierce
I'm in Maine so I feel ya. It used to look worse, but last fall I put it on the lift and cleaned it all up in good shape before spraying the fluid film to it. A wire brush and hose cleaned it up good. That's why it looks nice.
Did you end up ruining the clips trying to get the piece outta the high pressure line? I'm having same problem trying to get that rusted peice out with those clips holding it in there
@@kipstubbs2446 I wound up replacing the entire line. It was too far gone.
@Kip Stubbs you can use vinyl line splice kit with new quick connector. I've been to hell and back with rusted connectors . You cannot get them out.
I just did a fuel pump in my 2010 GMC ext cab. I cant believe my original pump lasted that long up in Michigan. I ended up replacing the gas lines, lock ring and pump. Just so every thing is not going to give me a surprise, should of done that when I had the tank out moment. After getting everything put back in the tank I sprayed the top of the pump with fluid film to hopefully buy it a little time.
Rust is a wonderful thing! Sometimes there's no time like the present....easier to change things when the opportunity presents itself.
Did you have to splice the connectors when you changed your fuel pump?
@@andrewrogers3449 Nope, what you see is how it happened. The electrical plugs are original.
Have any trouble w/ the gas tank strap bolts?Mine is seriosul crusty down there, scared to try spinning them out especially the front one which you can't seem to access the thread sides to spray w/ wd-40 or anything.. thanks
I'm in the rust belt in Midwest just finished mine in 2013 silverado. Did the tip the bed method , worked OK. I had to splice main fuel line, put a new quick connector and splice kit. Everything else was OK. And I put a rubber cover over pump and fuel tank when finished. You can run it and actually check everything is good . Then drop bed ɓack down hook wiring back up.
Good deal. Being able to DIY sure saves money.
Is the main fuel line the one with 90° metal elbow? If so, that's the one I'm having trouble with too. The fuel pump outlet broke off inside that connector on mine and now I'm trying to hunt down a replacement fuel line but no one has them. How did you go about splicing your line and what did you use? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm desperate and need my truck running again.
@@Street-Shred82 The supply line (fuel pump to engine) is the one that has a single connection, the forward most one. It sounds like the one you are describing.
To get by with it for a few days until I could get a new fuel line, I used a piece of rubber fuel line and connected it with hose clamps. 17 minutes in to the video. I mis-stated it as return line.
that line is the high pressure line feeder line NOT a return line .I would wait to replacement line is untanned .These systems are a non return line system .
Imagine how simple the job would be if the engineers knew what an access panel was.
I may have to do this soon myself, I'm getting a long crank and everything that could be causing it is pretty much right there on the pump assembly.
An access panel? You gotta be outta your mind!!! Why would engineers design anything to be easy to work on? It looks on on the computer!!
same issue with the rust not coming out of my connect, gonna try a spiral extractor. They get so brittle they break off inside the attachment.
Good luck!!
The body or the box ? Im trying to simplify a pump swap and cut a hole in the cab floor or the box .Carpet covers one and box liner covers the other.
The fuel pump is under the body.
@@northwoodsyankee3528 So your saying the cab or box?
@@glassblastcollision The bed of the vehicle. It's in the forward left side.
Do you know what the difference is with the pumps on rockauto as far as bed lengths?? So many different pumps and for different bed lengths plus some say they may require a wire harness??
'08 Silverado 1500, 5.3L Vin code J, extended cab with the middle bed length, not short box or long box.
That I'm not sure about. When I got my pump at the local NAPA they just went off year/make/model I think. I've never used Rockauto.
2007 Classic Silverado 143.5" wheel base Extended cab (6.5 foot bed aka standard bed)
I just bought a Genuine GM OE from Autozone with limited lifetime warranty. P/N: MU1415
Watch the overall height of pump too . Some shorter than others. Match them up at parts store, avoid splicing electrical connections if possible . Make sure correct connections are same as yours.
I have a question on 2012 gmc where is fuel filter located is in built into the fuel pump
It's in the bottom of the fuel pump. You know...the easiest place an engineer could think of for access to change it.
How the heck was yours so rusty? My 2007 Classic i just replaced at 176,000 today and it had none
I live in the Northeast. This is normal.
This is super common in the rust belt. If you get lots of snow, you also get lots of salt that causes rust.