Complete solar kits: poweredportablesolar.com/shop/ 200w Solar panel for F3800: shrsl.com/4pghr EMP Shield: www.empshield.com/?coupon=minutemanprep FREE Solar Generator Comparison Chart: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pUgG1ldofSyOaz6EMD3WDhw80cQlcCvKsU58EEgbBjE/edit?usp=sharing
I just want to buy the solar panels by themselves as I have 2 f3800. What’s the price for the panels? Trying to max out solar input for those units but it’s very confusing. Looking to buy next 2 weeks.
@@letstravelsandadventures8326 shrsl.com/4pgia these are the solar panels. If you go to my website you can see the wiring diagrams for the different options in the extra pictures here: poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/.
Really like those units, just wish they hadn't crippled the solar input on them. For that unit, I wished they at least could've matched the DP Ultra input.
I agree. Even if it was just two 150v 15a mppts they would've been way better off with 3.2 kW of input. I like to see around 5 kW of input on a system.
@@minutemanprepI don't think solar was a priority since these are built to primarily accept grid power and use AI to screw the power company out of their greedy schemes to charge more during peak hours which is unethical and illegal in my opinion..
The 50 amp hub for EcoFlow DPUs will also do some load balancing. I have it running my house connected to the L14-50 on the hub, and when I had a 15 amp (3600W) load connected to the L14-30 on one of the DPUs, it took power in from the hub through the in/out cable to balance the load.
Thank you for sharing.. ive been trying find any information on ecoflows 50amp hub, I cant even find a manual on ecoflows website about how the hub works or what it can do.
@@unijabnx2000yeah, when I researched mine I couldn't find anything. I've since purchased one and two delta pro ultras. They work great. The 50amp hub doesn't share power but it shares the load. If one DPU is a higher battery percentage it'll draw more power than the other.
Maybe I’m wrong, but in my offgrid don’t need high wattage and the F3800 does just fine. How I address the solar input issue is with an AOlithium 51.2v 100ah server battery. It not only gives me 5000 added watt hours but also accepts my solar inputs. It’s not as restrictive as the F3800’s input criteria. And the battery plus the 40 amp charger were only $1100 US.
i have one of these mainly to power my well pump. a single unit that has split phase 240, 6k inverter and can be charged with a 110 ac outlet are all things that appealed to me. i have 2, 415w bifacials to provide charging but i also can charge with an ac circuit from another solar system i have. now that i wont be using my well to water my garden and lawn i plan on using this as a supplement to my house system on the upcoming short winter days here in Montana.
My experience with the smaller C1000 model, the DC input is great in a synch, but it was too anemic. It only worked well as a more passive recharge method. Solar to make last longer, or vehicle DC to charge while driving down the road. I ended up using AC off my small solar setup to charge the battery during the day and run my fridge. At the end of the solar day, the system batties kept the Anker topped off until they ran out roughly 6-8 hours later. Afterwards the Anker took care of things till morning. While that is not the most efficient setup, it let me use a 100ft regular extension cord to transfer power from my shed to the house. The other quirky thing about the Anker is if it is AC charging and providing AC output, it will pull your charge rate + the AC load from the AC source. Tripped 1000w inverter a few times before I understood that. 200w charge rate + 200w load = 400w draw. It would be nice if it would just let you charge what it is set at and just let the battery draw down as needed without the additional bump from the source. Like it does with a DC source.
Wow lots of great info. Wonder if I should hold off buying a unit, in hopes that Anker will fix the solar charging issue. I subscribed. Expansion......
Instead of Anker expansion batteries. Get 48 volt batteries and a charger that works with the solar panels you already have. Then connect the 48 vdc battery to the solar inputs on the Anker.
I've been watching other videos about hooking a 24v battery to connectors like XT60 and plugging them into the PV ports of a solar generator. I'm curious if there is a way to use one or more 48v rack mount batteries, and charging them with your excess solar panels during the day, and then plug them into the F3800 solar ports after the sun goes down to extend the F3800 batteries. Maybe set up an on-off-on switch into the F3800's with inputs from your solar panels by day and rack mount batteries after the sun goes down. Could provide a much better way of providing excess power instead of relying on the Anker expansion batteries that need to be recharged via the F3800 solar input.
The 51.2v 100ah lifepo4 batteries are a perfect expansion /solar manager for the F3800 and you get 5000wh for only around a $1000. And uncut your solar input limitations. I transfer dc power from the server battery continuously through 10 gauge wire harness into the xt60 ports on the F3800. If I need a short term higher load and don’t want to chance those xt60 wires, I unplug the connector into the F3800 and let her rip.
Just thinking about this a little more, having an mppt charge controller hooked to the 48v battery rack lets you bypass the PV limitations on the F3800. Add an EG4 ChargeVerter hooked to a 240v 30amp outlet from a generator inlet box, and now you have a way to keep everything charged up on those cloudy days.
1st priority: Which (ac hybrid?) system can create a mini-grid so my pre-existing grid-tied PV will run? Secondary: Would be nice to have TOU option to charge batteries during my free nighttime, but use solar and battery during my doubled day rate. Due to costs for 1 and 2, I may need to restrict to 1.
No Time of Use (TOU) available from my understanding. You cannot use grid tied panels with a solar generator. They only let in DC power through the solar port. You could technically input 240v on some units from grid tied panels but you'd have to directly go from the panels to the unit, or use a 240v outlet.
@@minutemanprep yes. I want to max out the solar inputs, but have had the same issues trying to find panels that match the input voltages. How many in series and parallel?
@@BigSil57 They are specifically these 200w panels: shrsl.com/4pghr. You can put two of them together in series to be above 32v. You can connect up to three groups together, with 2 panels in each group. This is called a 2S3P configuration. That's 1,200w per input, 2,400w total. The max input is 2,400w. This is the only way I've found to get the full input on the F3800s.
Cool stuff but $8,300 for that setup just hurts. Generac propane home stand by generator at 14,000 watts goes for $4,900. Fuel stays stable unlike gasoline and it's so clean that maintenance is next to zero annual cost. I'd love an Anker setup but battery expense just isn't there yet. Hopefully in the future it'll make more sense.
I have this Anker solix for my home backup and am having trouble figuring out the solar panels for charging. i looked at the 200 watt panels on the link but really the amps and volts really get me lost. can you tell me how many panels i need and what configuration for the max input for solar. Sorry Im not smart in this area. I would like to set up the panels on an RV and use the anker as my battery backup. thank you fantastic viedo Ted
Hey Ted, glad to help. You can put up to 12 200w panels on each F3800. It must be done using these panels: poweredportablesolar.com/product/rigid-200w-solar-panel/ and you have to have them in 6 groups. There are two solar inputs, each solar input gets three groups. Each group has two panels. So on each solar you have a 2s3p configuration (2 panels in series, 3 groups of panels). You will also need two sets of long solar cables (poweredportablesolar.com/product/100ft-pv-connector-cable/). 4 Sets of short solar cables (poweredportablesolar.com/product/15ft-pv-connector-cable/). And two sets of 3 to 1 branch connectors (poweredportablesolar.com/product/3-way-pv-connector-branch-connector/). If you don't have high amp solar adapters you'll need two of these as well (poweredportablesolar.com/product/xt60-to-mc4-adapter/).
Be wary of their Terms of Service: Per section 17, any disputes are "governed by the laws of the People's Republic of China". If a dispute arises, it will be done "in accordance with the rules of the Shenzhen International Arbitration Court". "The language of the arbitration shall be Chinese." and "The place of arbitration shall be Shenzhen, China." In section 18. They can update the ToS at any time and the ToS "shall be deemed effective upon the sending by us of an email". They can put whatever [insert unimaginable terms here] they want and you have preemptively agreed to them.
@@BillyBobDingledorf that’s why I bought from Home Depot. 30 day returns. I will be exercising these units to see if there are any defects in those 30 days. Sometimes ya just gotta roll the dice.
Can you share the solar setup/parts list needed to max one F3800 to 2400watts? Diagram as well, cables, parallel or serial? And also looking forward for the expansion batteries video. Thanks!
You can find the diagram info here: poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/. If you already have the F3800 then you'll need a number of extra components that we usually include in our kits. I'm happy to help with that if you need.
Great video. I have a single F3800 with expansion battery currently. My HOA won't allow us to install solar arrays like you have. However, I'm thinking a portable ground mounted system would be able to pass muster. Do you think the 400watt panels from poweredportablesolar would work? I'm looking for rigid panels that can supply the maximum 1600watts per Anker for rigid setups.
The legs will work with any rigid frame solar panel. I would highly recommend these 200w panels: instead of the 400w panels (shrsl.com/4pjzq). Then if you visit here: poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/ you can see the different wiring diagrams I made to get maximum solar input.
It’s nice to have batteries in your house but when you have no incoming electricity and say it’s a severely cloudy week or two what are you doing when those batteries run out fire up the gas generator
That is true. That is one thing I forgot to mention in the video is that you cannot be outputting 240v while inputting 120v. So if you have to charge from a gas generator then you have to turn off/unplug any 240v output first.
Great video on the hub connection! Question: On the F3800 have you figured out what size battery pack in inside the unit? What Amp Hour size and voltage is going to the inverter?
I have the same transfer switch set up as you. I noticed you plugged into the wire connecting two units. But if I have just one unit, it does show we have the nama 50amp plug to connect from battery to wall. Am I able to connect just one unit to have 6,000W to the house?
I do not use the Titan at my cabin anymore, but it was working without any issues after 4 years of non-stop use when I retired it. I upgraded to a 6000XP off grid inverter with two 14.3kwh wall batteries. I have a video in production for that. I went from 3kw output, 2kw input, and 10 kwh battery to 6kw output, 4.8kw input, and 28.6 kwh of battery.
At 13:33 on the video, you said that one should be able to connect all 4 XT60 ports of the 2 F3800 to enjoy solar charging with up to 4 sets of solar arrays. While this is true, if you plan to use a gas generator to drive an AC to DC inverter source (like an EG4 Chargeverter) to recharge via the XT60 ports, without the DPH, you can charge all 4 XT60 ports with just 2 EG4 Chargeverters because each of the XT60 port on 2 separate F3800s can share common ground. But now with the DPH, the 2 XT60 ports on 1 F3800 are now connected in parallel with the other 2 XT60 ports on the other F3800. That means that you'll now need 4 separate DC inverter sources (instead of just 2) to drive all 4 XT60 ports if the 2 F3800s are connected together with the DPH. At least this is what I hear from a user (Alan Myers) who owns a DPH from the Facebook F3800 user group. Is this something you can verify to see if it's true?
Very interesting. To make sure I understand, he says you can use a chargerverter, attach four XT60 connectors to the output, and then charge at 48v dc power from the chargeverter to all four solar inputs?
I contacted Anker about the input to the F3800 and this is what they sent me... "Thank you for contacting Anker customer Service. Our F3800 is MPPT support, which means as long as the input voltage range from 11V to 60V, it could charge our unit regardless of the wattage/amps, however, each solar input will only take in 1200W at most. You may connect 2 of 405W solar panels in parallel and plug to each solar input port."
@@RCTVAccount I would love to get around that 1600 watt if I could do it with only 8 rigid 400 watt panels...That would create a reliable and portable system that I would need to not ruffle the feathers in my HOA
Have you had any issues connecting the double power hub on the newest firmware update? I just got a second unit and the power hub and on version 2.1.5 but cannot get it to work. They sent me another PowerHub thinking that was the problem and it does not work either and I can’t figure it out. When I turn the double power hub on it acts like everything is working in the app, but it shuts itself off after 30 seconds and there is no power output?
@@minutemanprepok thanks for the reply. They also told me and the manual says that the units themselves will not output power while the double power hub is connected and turned on but I see in your video Yours does? Does yours double power hub turn on and stay on even when not connected the power hub to your home?
I am looking a set of panels to be connected in series and the Voc during winter would put at 61V max. Do you have any ideas on how to restrict them to 60v max? thanks
It was my understanding (from Anker website) that pass thru charging did not work when utilizing the 240 volt / 50 amp output? Thanks for the video and any assistance.
Correct. No 120v input while outputting 240v. I also noticed that if Unit A has solar charging it up, it won't pass that energy over to Unit B through the hub.
This has to be the craziest video I have ever seen on solar. You have an 18k behind you. Why not just get two 6000XP. That thing is a joke! PV VOLTAGE THAT LOWS😂!
I have two units plus an expansion battery on each. But hooked up together unused, and not feeding power to my home, they lost 30% of power just being on over 2 days. Looks like they lose power just from being connected as a pair 😢
I am working on an entire video about the Apollo, Delta Pro Ultra, F3800, Delta Pro 3, Mango, and other larger units. My personal favorite is the Apollo and I currently run them full time at my home. This video was simply focused on the F3800 setup. All of these kits are much more affordable than if you get them from the manufacturer and you still get the same customer service and warranty coverage, but you also get lifetime support from me and my staff as well as support the channel: poweredportablesolar.com/product/hysolis-apollo-5k-kits/.
I forogot to go over that in the video. You can only input 120v power (grid or generator) if you're not using 240v. If you're using 240v, there's no AC input capability. There's not 240v input either so you can't output and input 240v at the same time. It's a big drawback that I forgot to go over. I have another video coming out soon comparing the F3800 to the other top contenders and I'll be going over that.
@minutemanprep thanks for the quick response! I have been watching a lot of your videos lately on all of your setups. I particularly liked the oupes mega 5 setup with the victron split phase 240 step up. Keep on putting videos out, the information is helping me and others make decisions on becoming off grid or disaster ready.
Well... generally speaking I'm not against the easier wiring, but using power stations at scale is a huge money sink. Its a big lose. Most importantly, there is very little flexibility. You can't scale power station based systems up very well and what you can do tends to require expensive brand-proprietary components. If anything breaks you wind up being stuck waiting on the manufacturer and/or replacing a very expensive piece of gear. Not good either. So this seems to be a rather expensive way to run off-grid. That $8000 in Anker gear would buy you a far more powerful system made out of discrete components. Far, far more powerful. More storage, more solar, more inverter, more everything. Or alternatively you could spend much less money for an equivalent system. Now building a system out of discrete parts can be intimidating. One doesn't just wire the pieces up... you still need a main battery fuse and fuses or DC breakers to distribute the power. But there are two relatively easy solutions. The first is to simply start small. A few solar panels, one 48V (51.2V LiFePO4) battery, one charge controller, one inverter, learn your way around the electronics, then scale up as needed. There is a learning curve because you also need fusing and breakers and such, but it isn't terrible. The second is to go with a hybrid inverter solution, which is basically like a power station except without the storage. You then just hang all the pieces off of it. Hybrid inverters even have built-in solar inputs, but unlike proprietary power station systems you can also add discrete charge controllers. You don't have to use the built-in solar inputs. And hybrid inverters often include the necessary safety functions (many even include built-in breakers). Power stations are great for SMALL systems, but they are a really bad choice for anything big, or anything you want to scale. Hybrid inverters are universally better than power stations for anything you might want to connect to the house. -Matt
@@minutemanprep What? Buying a victron mppt charge inverter for $1200? Wires the same as a Anker plus 2 extra wires to the battery. So for like half the price you have nearly double the capacity.
@@minutemanprep Yes, the way they have it you end up paying a lot more for your solar panels, not to mention there is only one panel you can use except their proprietary equipment. To me the 767-2000 is a much better product. I actually bought two of them.
Please note that surge protectors, which is what the "EMP Shield" device is, CANNOT protect you from an EMP. They are heavy on marketing and tickling people's prepper neurons, but its just a regular SPD. It isn't anything special. In fact, there doesn't even seem to be even the most basic datasheet on it like how many joules can it actually dissipate? They don't say anywhere, and that is a huge red flag. Instead they give parameters that are worthless. 228,000 amps? For how long? Any SPD can dissipate massive amps... just not for very long. All phases of an EMP? How powerful? And "one billionth of a second"? meaningless... ALL SPDs can react that fast... its just the zener diode that is the first reacting component of any SPD that sinks the energy long enough for the gas discharge tube to engage. Its like saying something is powerful but only giving the volts or amps rather than both... you can't actually determine how powerful the device actually is. Also, thin wires .... uh. yah, good luck. Its just a regular SPD. The most reliable SPD is the kind that trips a breaker, thus permanently protecting devices hanging off the breaker. No SPD can protect a circuit for very long so you have to trip a physical disconnect if you want real protection. That way the SPD only has to protect the circuit long enough for the breaker to trip which requires sinking considerably less energy. -Matt
Just found your channel through this thanks for showing it those have tempted me. Are you able to recharge them while they are outputting power via a portable generator?
yes you can recharge from solar while outputting power. I'd love to help you get the right system for your needs. Feel free to email me at info@poweredportablesolar.com
Wasn't it the same story with the Ecoflow's "Hey, this is the best thing sinced sliced bread and easy to run your house off of it". I like your videos but man, these feel like paid advertisements these days. Is it same to assume they "provided these free of charge" for a favorable review?
Oof, probably DPU simply becuase the solar input is so good. But, I still prefer my Apollo setup over my DPU setup. I have all the kits on discount at PoweredPortableSolar.com/shop/
Hi friend, we're ONOWTE, a manufacturer of Camera Systems. Now, we are looking for partners to test and review our camera system. Are you interested in getting one and working with us?
*Come on Man ! The Solex F3800's MPPT controllers are a shit show ! The PV input spec of the F3800 is an absolute JOKE ! For Me this stupid crap just to get any decent Solar input is a deal breaker AT ANY PRICE !*
@@minutemanprep Yes Sir. I have great difficulty understanding why Anker/Solex considers their spec on the FX3800's PV inputs are desirable for an otherwise excellent product ?
@@minutemanprep correct, they increased amperage up to 27 amps but they ALSO dropped the 'higher amperage voltage' cutoff from 32v to down to 28v so this will basically work with most 300w to 400w residential panels in parallel. So as long as you have over 28v, you'll get the higher charging amperage. Very good change!
Ok so all that means what exactly. One of my biggest hangups with this unit was the solar charging. The other is the fact you couldn't AC charge when using the 240 single unit mode. I guess that changes though if your only using 120v off each unit to create the 240 split phase right.
Complete solar kits: poweredportablesolar.com/shop/
200w Solar panel for F3800: shrsl.com/4pghr
EMP Shield: www.empshield.com/?coupon=minutemanprep
FREE Solar Generator Comparison Chart: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pUgG1ldofSyOaz6EMD3WDhw80cQlcCvKsU58EEgbBjE/edit?usp=sharing
I just want to buy the solar panels by themselves as I have 2 f3800. What’s the price for the panels? Trying to max out solar input for those units but it’s very confusing. Looking to buy next 2 weeks.
@@letstravelsandadventures8326 shrsl.com/4pgia these are the solar panels. If you go to my website you can see the wiring diagrams for the different options in the extra pictures here: poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/.
Is there emp for solar Roof i have another question can you use your ecoflow delta 3 for example as a car battery replace?
For the “200 watt panel for f3800” listing - is that two 100 watt panels or two 200 watt panels - or?
@@1drhnsd1 200w
EXPANSION BATTERY TEST, YES PLEASE!!!!
Really like those units, just wish they hadn't crippled the solar input on them. For that unit, I wished they at least could've matched the DP Ultra input.
I agree. Even if it was just two 150v 15a mppts they would've been way better off with 3.2 kW of input. I like to see around 5 kW of input on a system.
@@minutemanprepI don't think solar was a priority since these are built to primarily accept grid power and use AI to screw the power company out of their greedy schemes to charge more during peak hours which is unethical and illegal in my opinion..
That’s why returned them. Not enough solar input. Better off with the ecoflow.
@@amartins02I've got two delta pro ultras and they work great.
The 50 amp hub for EcoFlow DPUs will also do some load balancing. I have it running my house connected to the L14-50 on the hub, and when I had a 15 amp (3600W) load connected to the L14-30 on one of the DPUs, it took power in from the hub through the in/out cable to balance the load.
That's awesome! Thank you for sharing that. I haven't bought a second DPU yet to test that so I will test that when I can.
Thank you for sharing.. ive been trying find any information on ecoflows 50amp hub, I cant even find a manual on ecoflows website about how the hub works or what it can do.
@@unijabnx2000yeah, when I researched mine I couldn't find anything. I've since purchased one and two delta pro ultras. They work great. The 50amp hub doesn't share power but it shares the load. If one DPU is a higher battery percentage it'll draw more power than the other.
been odd that they dont sell the hub on amazon by itself...
about a week after this comment... i found the hub listed on amazon for sale
Maybe I’m wrong, but in my offgrid don’t need high wattage and the F3800 does just fine. How I address the solar input issue is with an AOlithium 51.2v 100ah server battery. It not only gives me 5000 added watt hours but also accepts my solar inputs. It’s not as restrictive as the F3800’s input criteria. And the battery plus the 40 amp charger were only $1100 US.
EXPANSION BATTERIES ARE A MUST . MAY THE SOLAR BE WITH YOU .👍
i have one of these mainly to power my well pump. a single unit that has split phase 240, 6k inverter and can be charged with a 110 ac outlet are all things that appealed to me. i have 2, 415w bifacials to provide charging but i also can charge with an ac circuit from another solar system i have. now that i wont be using my well to water my garden and lawn i plan on using this as a supplement to my house system on the upcoming short winter days here in Montana.
My experience with the smaller C1000 model, the DC input is great in a synch, but it was too anemic. It only worked well as a more passive recharge method. Solar to make last longer, or vehicle DC to charge while driving down the road. I ended up using AC off my small solar setup to charge the battery during the day and run my fridge. At the end of the solar day, the system batties kept the Anker topped off until they ran out roughly 6-8 hours later. Afterwards the Anker took care of things till morning.
While that is not the most efficient setup, it let me use a 100ft regular extension cord to transfer power from my shed to the house.
The other quirky thing about the Anker is if it is AC charging and providing AC output, it will pull your charge rate + the AC load from the AC source. Tripped 1000w inverter a few times before I understood that. 200w charge rate + 200w load = 400w draw. It would be nice if it would just let you charge what it is set at and just let the battery draw down as needed without the additional bump from the source. Like it does with a DC source.
This was the video I needed to see to get a Anker before the sale goes out! Thank you so much! Expansion!!!!!!
Can you do a video showing how you installed the EMP shield on your car?
ruclips.net/video/JHf9ZCISogU/видео.html
Expansion battery vid please
Great job with this very informative video. I'm interested in seeing the expansion battery test.
Wow lots of great info. Wonder if I should hold off buying a unit, in hopes that Anker will fix the solar charging issue. I subscribed. Expansion......
Did you measure the surge power of the Double Power Hub? I need 66A LRA and it is unclear to me if it can deliver.
Expansion. Also I'd love to see your comparison of the hysolis units against the Anker Solix X1 the new wall units they have created.
Yeah, when these first came out, I was amazed that they made the input requirements so terrible. Took it out of consideration for me.
Instead of Anker expansion batteries. Get 48 volt batteries and a charger that works with the solar panels you already have. Then connect the 48 vdc battery to the solar inputs on the Anker.
I've been watching other videos about hooking a 24v battery to connectors like XT60 and plugging them into the PV ports of a solar generator.
I'm curious if there is a way to use one or more 48v rack mount batteries, and charging them with your excess solar panels during the day, and then plug them into the F3800 solar ports after the sun goes down to extend the F3800 batteries. Maybe set up an on-off-on switch into the F3800's with inputs from your solar panels by day and rack mount batteries after the sun goes down.
Could provide a much better way of providing excess power instead of relying on the Anker expansion batteries that need to be recharged via the F3800 solar input.
The 51.2v 100ah lifepo4 batteries are a perfect expansion /solar manager for the F3800 and you get 5000wh for only around a $1000. And uncut your solar input limitations. I transfer dc power from the server battery continuously through 10 gauge wire harness into the xt60 ports on the F3800. If I need a short term higher load and don’t want to chance those xt60 wires, I unplug the connector into the F3800 and let her rip.
Just thinking about this a little more, having an mppt charge controller hooked to the 48v battery rack lets you bypass the PV limitations on the F3800. Add an EG4 ChargeVerter hooked to a 240v 30amp outlet from a generator inlet box, and now you have a way to keep everything charged up on those cloudy days.
1st priority: Which (ac hybrid?) system can create a mini-grid so my pre-existing grid-tied PV will run?
Secondary: Would be nice to have TOU option to charge batteries during my free nighttime, but use solar and battery during my doubled day rate.
Due to costs for 1 and 2, I may need to restrict to 1.
No Time of Use (TOU) available from my understanding. You cannot use grid tied panels with a solar generator. They only let in DC power through the solar port. You could technically input 240v on some units from grid tied panels but you'd have to directly go from the panels to the unit, or use a 240v outlet.
Interested in more details on the solar panel arrangement. Panel info and how they're hooked up.
Just to clarify, are you asking about how they are wired into the F3800s specifically?
@@minutemanprep yes. I want to max out the solar inputs, but have had the same issues trying to find panels that match the input voltages. How many in series and parallel?
@@BigSil57 They are specifically these 200w panels: shrsl.com/4pghr. You can put two of them together in series to be above 32v. You can connect up to three groups together, with 2 panels in each group. This is called a 2S3P configuration. That's 1,200w per input, 2,400w total. The max input is 2,400w. This is the only way I've found to get the full input on the F3800s.
EXPANSION please. ESPECIALLY with those EG4 that I see peeking behind your back. 🙂
Expansion, definitely!
Hey! I’ve watched this video an unhealthy amount of times as I build out my Dual F3800 system. Do you ever discuss your Crypto Mining experience?
Excellent! Thank you! Expansion
Cool stuff but $8,300 for that setup just hurts. Generac propane home stand by generator at 14,000 watts goes for $4,900. Fuel stays stable unlike gasoline and it's so clean that maintenance is next to zero annual cost.
I'd love an Anker setup but battery expense just isn't there yet. Hopefully in the future it'll make more sense.
Fair enough.
I was contemplating buying an expansion battery for mine or just buying a second one I think you answered my question 😅
I definitely recommend a couple of extra batteries for a setup like this
DPU has an SOC balance feature when plugged into SHP2
That is correct. I guess in my mind I was referring to not needing a smart home panel to get balancing.
I have this Anker solix for my home backup and am having trouble figuring out the solar panels for charging. i looked at the 200 watt panels on the link but really the amps and volts really get me lost. can you tell me how many panels i need and what configuration for the max input for solar. Sorry Im not smart in this area. I would like to set up the panels on an RV and use the anker as my battery backup. thank you fantastic viedo
Ted
Hey Ted, glad to help. You can put up to 12 200w panels on each F3800. It must be done using these panels: poweredportablesolar.com/product/rigid-200w-solar-panel/ and you have to have them in 6 groups. There are two solar inputs, each solar input gets three groups. Each group has two panels. So on each solar you have a 2s3p configuration (2 panels in series, 3 groups of panels). You will also need two sets of long solar cables (poweredportablesolar.com/product/100ft-pv-connector-cable/). 4 Sets of short solar cables (poweredportablesolar.com/product/15ft-pv-connector-cable/). And two sets of 3 to 1 branch connectors (poweredportablesolar.com/product/3-way-pv-connector-branch-connector/). If you don't have high amp solar adapters you'll need two of these as well (poweredportablesolar.com/product/xt60-to-mc4-adapter/).
Be wary of their Terms of Service:
Per section 17, any disputes are "governed by the laws of the People's Republic of China". If a dispute arises, it will be done "in accordance with the rules of the Shenzhen International Arbitration Court". "The language of the arbitration shall be Chinese." and "The place of arbitration shall be Shenzhen, China."
In section 18. They can update the ToS at any time and the ToS "shall be deemed effective upon the sending by us of an email". They can put whatever [insert unimaginable terms here] they want and you have preemptively agreed to them.
@@BillyBobDingledorf that’s why I bought from Home Depot. 30 day returns. I will be exercising these units to see if there are any defects in those 30 days. Sometimes ya just gotta roll the dice.
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2400W of solar input is not a lot if you plan to run off-grid. Limited solar input is the biggest issue with some of these mid sized solar generators.
Expansion. Guess what I don't need your oupes m2 anymore. I'll be getting one of these instead. 😊
Can you share the solar setup/parts list needed to max one F3800 to 2400watts? Diagram as well, cables, parallel or serial? And also looking forward for the expansion batteries video. Thanks!
You can find the diagram info here: poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/. If you already have the F3800 then you'll need a number of extra components that we usually include in our kits. I'm happy to help with that if you need.
Great video. I have a single F3800 with expansion battery currently. My HOA won't allow us to install solar arrays like you have. However, I'm thinking a portable ground mounted system would be able to pass muster. Do you think the 400watt panels from poweredportablesolar would work? I'm looking for rigid panels that can supply the maximum 1600watts per Anker for rigid setups.
The legs will work with any rigid frame solar panel. I would highly recommend these 200w panels: instead of the 400w panels (shrsl.com/4pjzq). Then if you visit here: poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/ you can see the different wiring diagrams I made to get maximum solar input.
It’s nice to have batteries in your house but when you have no incoming electricity and say it’s a severely cloudy week or two what are you doing when those batteries run out fire up the gas generator
Yes I have a small cheap gas generator (£400) that will charge the solar generator in an hour or so
That is true. That is one thing I forgot to mention in the video is that you cannot be outputting 240v while inputting 120v. So if you have to charge from a gas generator then you have to turn off/unplug any 240v output first.
Great video on the hub connection! Question: On the F3800 have you figured out what size battery pack in inside the unit? What Amp Hour size and voltage is going to the inverter?
it's an 80ah battery pack at 48v.
No information on EMP In your notes below?
My bad. The link is there now.
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I have the same transfer switch set up as you. I noticed you plugged into the wire connecting two units. But if I have just one unit, it does show we have the nama 50amp plug to connect from battery to wall. Am I able to connect just one unit to have 6,000W to the house?
yes
Do you still run your cabin with the same old Titan solar generator? I know you did that for a year or so a few years ago.
I do not use the Titan at my cabin anymore, but it was working without any issues after 4 years of non-stop use when I retired it. I upgraded to a 6000XP off grid inverter with two 14.3kwh wall batteries. I have a video in production for that. I went from 3kw output, 2kw input, and 10 kwh battery to 6kw output, 4.8kw input, and 28.6 kwh of battery.
whats the max continuous watts one unit can pull for 1 leg in 120/240v split phase mode? is it 3000 watts?
yes, great question.
At 13:33 on the video, you said that one should be able to connect all 4 XT60 ports of the 2 F3800 to enjoy solar charging with up to 4 sets of solar arrays. While this is true, if you plan to use a gas generator to drive an AC to DC inverter source (like an EG4 Chargeverter) to recharge via the XT60 ports, without the DPH, you can charge all 4 XT60 ports with just 2 EG4 Chargeverters because each of the XT60 port on 2 separate F3800s can share common ground. But now with the DPH, the 2 XT60 ports on 1 F3800 are now connected in parallel with the other 2 XT60 ports on the other F3800. That means that you'll now need 4 separate DC inverter sources (instead of just 2) to drive all 4 XT60 ports if the 2 F3800s are connected together with the DPH.
At least this is what I hear from a user (Alan Myers) who owns a DPH from the Facebook F3800 user group. Is this something you can verify to see if it's true?
Very interesting. To make sure I understand, he says you can use a chargerverter, attach four XT60 connectors to the output, and then charge at 48v dc power from the chargeverter to all four solar inputs?
Having both units paired and plugged into the main panel, is that 50 amps going in?
Yes, 240v 50a to my main electrical panel. That's 12 kW of power.
Doesn’t the home panel do the same balancing act?
7:38 Do you have a video on how you mounted those solar panels in the back? (Far Right) What kind of rack are you using? It looks NICE!!!
I have a video coming out about it. That ground mount is tiltable for different times of the year. I love it.
@@minutemanprep I can't wait to see the video, it looks Awesome
I contacted Anker about the input to the F3800 and this is what they sent me...
"Thank you for contacting Anker customer Service.
Our F3800 is MPPT support, which means as long as the input voltage range from 11V to 60V, it could charge our unit regardless of the wattage/amps, however, each solar input will only take in 1200W at most.
You may connect 2 of 405W solar panels in parallel and plug to each solar input port."
With this, per their support site you can only support 1600 watts by putting 2 in parallel instead of 3.
@@ElliottAbraham The reference was for the Anker 405W rigid panels. There are other panel options that would increase the total wattage for charging.
@@RCTVAccount I would love to get around that 1600 watt if I could do it with only 8 rigid 400 watt panels...That would create a reliable and portable system that I would need to not ruffle the feathers in my HOA
what would 2-F3800's plus the parallel cable plus the solar panel's to charge both in a day cost?
You can find options here: poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/
Have you had any issues connecting the double power hub on the newest firmware update? I just got a second unit and the power hub and on version 2.1.5 but cannot get it to work. They sent me another PowerHub thinking that was the problem and it does not work either and I can’t figure it out.
When I turn the double power hub on it acts like everything is working in the app, but it shuts itself off after 30 seconds and there is no power output?
Dang that sucks. I haven't had that issue. I updated all of the firmware before connecting the hub for the first time and it has worked for me.
@@minutemanprepok thanks for the reply. They also told me and the manual says that the units themselves will not output power while the double power hub is connected and turned on but I see in your video Yours does? Does yours double power hub turn on and stay on even when not connected the power hub to your home?
Power up 😊
I am looking a set of panels to be connected in series and the Voc during winter would put at 61V max. Do you have any ideas on how to restrict them to 60v max? thanks
It was my understanding (from Anker website) that pass thru charging did not work when utilizing the 240 volt / 50 amp output? Thanks for the video and any assistance.
Correct. No 120v input while outputting 240v. I also noticed that if Unit A has solar charging it up, it won't pass that energy over to Unit B through the hub.
Mjr Ed Dames freaked me out about CMEs as a teenager. Waiting for the DPRK nuke in anger?
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This has to be the craziest video I have ever seen on solar. You have an 18k behind you. Why not just get two 6000XP. That thing is a joke! PV VOLTAGE THAT LOWS😂!
...because I test and review tons of products to show lots of options. I don't just sit on one item and say it's the only way.
I have two units plus an expansion battery on each. But hooked up together unused, and not feeding power to my home, they lost 30% of power just being on over 2 days. Looks like they lose power just from being connected as a pair 😢
Wait, what about the apollos? I am trying to make a decision on them for high power needs. So which system would you choose?
I am working on an entire video about the Apollo, Delta Pro Ultra, F3800, Delta Pro 3, Mango, and other larger units. My personal favorite is the Apollo and I currently run them full time at my home. This video was simply focused on the F3800 setup. All of these kits are much more affordable than if you get them from the manufacturer and you still get the same customer service and warranty coverage, but you also get lifetime support from me and my staff as well as support the channel: poweredportablesolar.com/product/hysolis-apollo-5k-kits/.
DO get the expansion batteries !!!
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I would like to run something like that in my rv with the solar panels......would that be possible?
Yes, you just need to use the right solar panels to get the solar input you need. (poweredportablesolar.com/product/f3800-kits/)
Can you grid charge or generator charge while these units are parallel running like this? If so, 120 or 240 only?
I forogot to go over that in the video. You can only input 120v power (grid or generator) if you're not using 240v. If you're using 240v, there's no AC input capability. There's not 240v input either so you can't output and input 240v at the same time. It's a big drawback that I forgot to go over. I have another video coming out soon comparing the F3800 to the other top contenders and I'll be going over that.
@minutemanprep thanks for the quick response! I have been watching a lot of your videos lately on all of your setups. I particularly liked the oupes mega 5 setup with the victron split phase 240 step up. Keep on putting videos out, the information is helping me and others make decisions on becoming off grid or disaster ready.
The link you posted doesn’t have panels with those specs. You have a valid link?
I have those panels in the kits. Are you looking for the link specifically for just the solar panel?
Well... generally speaking I'm not against the easier wiring, but using power stations at scale is a huge money sink. Its a big lose. Most importantly, there is very little flexibility. You can't scale power station based systems up very well and what you can do tends to require expensive brand-proprietary components. If anything breaks you wind up being stuck waiting on the manufacturer and/or replacing a very expensive piece of gear. Not good either.
So this seems to be a rather expensive way to run off-grid. That $8000 in Anker gear would buy you a far more powerful system made out of discrete components. Far, far more powerful. More storage, more solar, more inverter, more everything. Or alternatively you could spend much less money for an equivalent system.
Now building a system out of discrete parts can be intimidating. One doesn't just wire the pieces up... you still need a main battery fuse and fuses or DC breakers to distribute the power. But there are two relatively easy solutions.
The first is to simply start small. A few solar panels, one 48V (51.2V LiFePO4) battery, one charge controller, one inverter, learn your way around the electronics, then scale up as needed. There is a learning curve because you also need fusing and breakers and such, but it isn't terrible.
The second is to go with a hybrid inverter solution, which is basically like a power station except without the storage. You then just hang all the pieces off of it. Hybrid inverters even have built-in solar inputs, but unlike proprietary power station systems you can also add discrete charge controllers. You don't have to use the built-in solar inputs. And hybrid inverters often include the necessary safety functions (many even include built-in breakers).
Power stations are great for SMALL systems, but they are a really bad choice for anything big, or anything you want to scale. Hybrid inverters are universally better than power stations for anything you might want to connect to the house.
-Matt
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One of those F3800's only has 3840wh of capacity for $4000. I can buy a 24v 200ah lifepo4 battery for $1200 that has 5000wh. What a rip off.
you're paying for everything to be done and wired for you. You will always beat it with DIY setups.
@@minutemanprep What? Buying a victron mppt charge inverter for $1200? Wires the same as a Anker plus 2 extra wires to the battery. So for like half the price you have nearly double the capacity.
The f3800 is always on sale I got mine for $2300
@@PrestoMoto02 of course it’s on sale all the time. It’s a $300 battery with a $300 in electronics.
The iPhone is too
expansion!
Run your entire house!... For 3 hrs
Maybe Anker will make version two of the 3800 at a much higher solar rate input! As of now, I would definitely avoid it!
I really hope they put in two really high end mppts. If they did that, they would be way better off.
@@minutemanprep
Yes, the way they have it you end up paying a lot more for your solar panels, not to mention there is only one panel you can use except their proprietary equipment.
To me the 767-2000 is a much better product. I actually bought two of them.
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Please note that surge protectors, which is what the "EMP Shield" device is, CANNOT protect you from an EMP. They are heavy on marketing and tickling people's prepper neurons, but its just a regular SPD. It isn't anything special.
In fact, there doesn't even seem to be even the most basic datasheet on it like how many joules can it actually dissipate? They don't say anywhere, and that is a huge red flag. Instead they give parameters that are worthless. 228,000 amps? For how long? Any SPD can dissipate massive amps... just not for very long. All phases of an EMP? How powerful? And "one billionth of a second"? meaningless... ALL SPDs can react that fast... its just the zener diode that is the first reacting component of any SPD that sinks the energy long enough for the gas discharge tube to engage.
Its like saying something is powerful but only giving the volts or amps rather than both... you can't actually determine how powerful the device actually is.
Also, thin wires .... uh. yah, good luck. Its just a regular SPD.
The most reliable SPD is the kind that trips a breaker, thus permanently protecting devices hanging off the breaker. No SPD can protect a circuit for very long so you have to trip a physical disconnect if you want real protection. That way the SPD only has to protect the circuit long enough for the breaker to trip which requires sinking considerably less energy.
-Matt
Just found your channel through this thanks for showing it those have tempted me. Are you able to recharge them while they are outputting power via a portable generator?
yes you can recharge from solar while outputting power. I'd love to help you get the right system for your needs. Feel free to email me at info@poweredportablesolar.com
Time of Use load shifting is the what I want to know about...
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Wasn't it the same story with the Ecoflow's "Hey, this is the best thing sinced sliced bread and easy to run your house off of it". I like your videos but man, these feel like paid advertisements these days. Is it same to assume they "provided these free of charge" for a favorable review?
Anker f3800 or Ecoflow Delta Pro Ultra ?
Oof, probably DPU simply becuase the solar input is so good. But, I still prefer my Apollo setup over my DPU setup. I have all the kits on discount at PoweredPortableSolar.com/shop/
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Hi friend, we're ONOWTE, a manufacturer of Camera Systems. Now, we are looking for partners to test and review our camera system. Are you interested in getting one and working with us?
Sorry, no thank you.
Boom! First to comment!
*Come on Man ! The Solex F3800's MPPT controllers are a shit show ! The PV input spec of the F3800 is an absolute JOKE ! For Me this stupid crap just to get any decent Solar input is a deal breaker AT ANY PRICE !*
Their MPPTs are defintely lacking.
@@minutemanprep Yes Sir. I have great difficulty understanding why Anker/Solex considers their spec on the FX3800's PV inputs are desirable for an otherwise excellent product ?
Dude, they updated the solar ranges and increased the amperage as well with the latest firmware update. You didn't know that?!
I saw they updated their site to up to 27a. But did they increase the voltage range? I said 25a cause that's still what's on the side of the unit
@@minutemanprep correct, they increased amperage up to 27 amps but they ALSO dropped the 'higher amperage voltage' cutoff from 32v to down to 28v so this will basically work with most 300w to 400w residential panels in parallel. So as long as you have over 28v, you'll get the higher charging amperage. Very good change!
@Jasonoid indeed that's really good news. I'll have to do a follow up video about the solar input
Ok so all that means what exactly. One of my biggest hangups with this unit was the solar charging. The other is the fact you couldn't AC charge when using the 240 single unit mode. I guess that changes though if your only using 120v off each unit to create the 240 split phase right.
@@davidbailey3289 Correct, no ac input with 240v ac output.
Anker says “5. The AC output ports on Anker SOLIX F3800 are disabled when Double Power Hub is activated.”
But you are saying otherwise.
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