Ken Aberson gives a brown coat lesson
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- Опубликовано: 23 окт 2012
- Check out my video on how to do scratch coat for stucco. • Here is some basic ins...
And as alway remember to hydrate your walls! hydrate hydrate hydrate!!!
Also check out my link on how to do lathing for stucco. • Ken Abersons lathing f... . Send photos of project. On this remodel in Davis Ca. I show how to apply the brown coat which is typically the second coat of plastic cement in a 3 coat stucco system. The scratch coat has been kept wet by sprinkling water with an ordinary water hose once or twice a day preferably in the mornings and in the evenings when the walls are cool. Try not to wet the walls when they are hot, for example don't ever wet a wall down in the middle of the day when it is hot to the touch. I always try to do my brown coat without water first then add water to the wall if necessary to give me time to complete the entire wall so the wall doesn't dry to fast and I can do a nice float job. I always incorporate the use of a straight edge when doing brown coat, sometimes I will use an 8 ft. or 6 ft. or even a 4 ft. straight edge to be sure the wall is straight. 
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This guy has a different style but he knows his shit. Excellent work
Thank you for your videos Sir.
Awesome! Thank you. Subscribed
thanks for the demo.
your welcome rootunes
My darby may be bowed, but its bowed in the right direction to feather each pass of the Darby overlap. Besides when I turn the darby on its edge it loses its bow. Also there is no written formula that says you have to plaster left to right. But thank you for your kind comments. I go right to left on scratch and brown left to right on finish. Cheerios .
Yep, this is a good tutorial, wish id seen it a few weeks back.
thank you for watching and the kind remarks! Ken
Cheers for takingbthe time time out.
FROM JOURNEYMAN TO JOURNEYMAN GOOD JOB! KEEP ON KEEPIN ON.`
Hello R.M M. TIGRE. Thank you. for your acknowledgement. Its always nice to hear from fellow journeyman brothers. But for others that might read this, don't hesitate to ask questions about anything related to plastering industry. I will do my best with my over 25 years of knowledge in the trade. And RM. you take good care now of that back and arms. Stay away from ski hills and dirt bikes. Smiles x miles. Ken A.
You’re great, thanks
Between you and Kirk (competition!), I feel like I'm ready to apprentice for either of you. Nice video.
Thank you umdala. Kirk and I do utilize the same people at times. Keep watching and subscribe, we are in the process of promoting more vids, more information, more fun stuff.
Kirks really not that good tbh
This guys much better n im better them both jbh
Nice job Ken, you and Kirk do it right. There are very few contractors in central Florida that will run the 3 coat system. Most do 1 coat and texture...even over lath. Love my trade but absolutely hate what it has become. I miss the interior Plastering... brown and putty coat and running molds. Good job buddy.
Hi Mike. Are you still slinging the mud? I am I just published a new video on doing acrylics. Check it out at Ken Aberson Plastering on you tube
U can blame the mexicans for that
They dropped the sq ft so low u cant afford to give em 3coats
Ken...Im still slinging mud. I pick and choose my jobs. Not being conceded...but I'll only do it the correct way. ..the way my dad and grand dad taught me (RIP). It's a shame what our trade has become.
Averageguy....yes the prices have gotten out of sync with the trade.
I'm doing a remodel now...pressure wash and remove loose paint , bond with plaster weld, tight and a little rich on the mix scratch coat, wait 72 hrs and hydrate walls, then brown and drag back, wait 72 hrs hydrate and apply finish coat. Finished product will be 5/8 thick. I'm charging $ 3.00 sf on block and $ 6.50 on wire.
Competition is $1.25 sf....I get called at least 3-4 times a week to fix their work.
Not to brag but you have to have an understanding of what your working with...hence starting out as a laborer working your way to apprentice and on to a journeyman.
Nowadays newbies don't want to start at the bottom and work to the top
Just my 2 cents from a guy whom has been in it way too long.
@@mikewilson8394 well said
I started out mixing n pullin buckets my friend
26yrs here
Im in philly
Unless I'm working Union the majority of my coworkers are some type of Spanish. It's bad dude
I stuccoed the gable end of a new porch cover I built recently. I used your instruction to do the job; however, it sure seemed harder to do than you make it seem (maybe that is why you are the pro and I'm not even worthy of being called an amateur). I especially struggled to figure out the right consistency for the mix and applying the stucco up in the tight corners. I'd like to see how you get stucco into tight places like the box ends of the gables and up against the soffits.
There is a learning curve for sure. Basically whatever it takes to get the mud anywhere we have smaller tools that we use you can find some tools in the kitchen drawer to get into tight spots. We use what’s called a margin trowel or a leaf and square to get an a really tight areas. To get up to the soffit a rookie would need to mask off the soffit because he’s going to make a mess on the soffit or he can clean it off with a sponge float when he’s done but I just push the mud up flat with the broadside of the trial and then I can tuck it in and then pull it back down. Sometimes I have to use the toe of my trowel. Don’t mind these other comments that you see on my channel. They are only journeyman plasterers.
Hey that's my good Darby
Now that's a plasterer being in the trade for 45years appreciate a good trowel unlike some of the show offs that's on that's a joke nice job mate Jim from Glasgow
Are you putting stucco right on top of foam insulation without any mesh??
Never. Only in the prehistoric days we would apply directly over foam with zero netting. Not since. Thanks. Ken
Isn't that a different video you you are referring to? There is no foam insulation in this video
In a 3 part stucco job what is the wait time between coats? And why? Would there be negative effects long term if it was rushed through? Thank you, I've learned much from watching your videos.
Hello Nikki, and thank you for the compliment. Typical wait times are 48 hours between scratch and brown coats, and preferably 2 weeks or longer between brown and finish. the scratch coat needs time to dry and it needs to be hydrated with water early in the morning before the sun comes up, or late in the evening, after the sun is off the wall and the heat subsides from the daytime sun or heat. Stucco does really well in cooler climates, but struggles in hotter climates if there is not enough attention to hydration. A nail test can be done after applying the scratch coat and the brown coat to make sure the prior coat has been hydrated properly. Take a nail and make a small X in random areas of the walls. If the nail is hard to penetrate either coat, you are good to go. If the nail cuts through the product with ease then you need to hydrate for at least another day, or until the nail does NOT cut through the product with ease. Proper hydration will reduce cracking. It is extremely important to wet down the walls exactly as I have mentioned. If you follow this procedure, AND providing you have used the proper formula for good stucco, and good sand, you will be successful. The brown coat needs time to dry so that the cement can cure properly before applying the finish. If you apply the finish coat to soon, efflorescence will start coming out onto the finish coat from the material underneath. It is a very ugly sight. A test can be done to ensure the ph has come down enough to apply a colored stucco. If the system is going to be painted the same direction applies. I would wait 28 days before applying colored finish coat or paint. Thanks for watching
Hi Nikki. Three part stucco job. First coat 24 hrs. so the second coat won’t sag. Second coat wait 7 days to two week to allow mud to crack. If you are putting color in finish wait 28 days before applying finish coat to allow all lime to escape so no efflorescences will weep out through cracks in the stucco. Stucco will crack. You can use fast setting materials to encourage a fast job. A fast job could be a better product. Just depends on the knowledge and talent of the applicator
As a 3rd generation Portuguese plasterer I would have used some 4.5 fiberglass mesh at the joint overlapping the new wall over the old wall about 6 inches or better yet cover entire new wall brown coat and existing wall with a bmi 290 coat over mesh then a finish coat but it’s more costly but then again we plaster and stucco in Carmel pebble beach ares very high end areas not these tract homes as shown you get what you pay for
This is true. People in Davis Ca. Are less apt to spend double the money here to fiberglass the whole wall which imo would be overkill but thanks for chiming in to let folks know that they can take it further than a basic job. Ken
I would like to know what your mix is.
3:1 sand to plastic cement on scratch coat, and 4:1 on brown coat
For the eaves do you add a j-trim or do you stucco right up to the wood? Thanks for the helpful vid!
I only put J trim along the eves if the eves are beautiful cedar natural wood trim or something like that. If you want a perfectly straight wall, having J trim at the eves is a great idea but it would be out of the ordinary. It is costly and a wast of time. We rarely put Trim at the eves. Just stucco right up to the wood. Good luck!
@@AbersonPlastering Great, thanks for that! I'm taking on a pretty big challenge not having done stucco before but your videos have been super helpful. Any tips for working in high temps? I'm in hot Southern California!
@@michelegraybeal Yes start early, quit early say 2ish. Now here is the greatest tip: Wet the walls down that first night and every night after the sun goes down and the walls have cooled. Then get out there early again before the sun comes up and get those walls wet down. Dont wet walls in the middle of the day. Wait 48 hrs after you scratch coat before brown, then seven days after brown before finish and you will be golden
@@AbersonPlastering Thank you so much! Keep up the good work!
@@AbersonPlastering Sorry to bug you again but I had one more newbie question. Does stucco need to be installed in a timely manner? The reason I ask is, due to the fact that I have to work during the week (and I'm inexperienced as well as just not strong enough to do the job quickly), I sometimes have to stop midway on a wall. Can I just pick up where I left off the next day? I am hydrating the walls as I go. Thank you again!
Ken you being from Calyfawnyuh, i have to ask, did the pool trowel guy teach you anything.? lol
Ahahah. Yes. But I hear from the grapevine that I’m a better plasterer from guys that have worked there. They work for me as well Ernie
THANKS KEN, ARMS AND BACK ARE'NT WHAT THEY USED TO BE , BUT THE MIND STILL HAS A FEW MILES. . I STARTED A GINSENG REGIMIN THATS SUPPOSED TO HELP WITH MEMORY. .....WHAT WAS I SAYING AGAIN? OH YEAH, MEMORY. ANYWAY, SEEMS I CANT RECALL WHETHER OR NOT I PUT BONDER ON A PATCH I GOT GOIN. RIGHT BEFORE I DO THE PATCH OR A DAY EARLIER? AND WOULD IT BE BENIFICIAL TO USE A SYNTHETIC SYSTEM, OR A ONE COAT? IM IN PHX. AZ., SO ITS HOT. ALSO THE REMODEL IS A OLD HOUSE., SO ITS REAL FLAKEY AND SANDY. LOOKIN FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU. SURE MISS THE BIZZ! NO BETTER WAY TO STAY IN SHAPE THEN CHASING A NOZZOLE WITH A TWO MAN DRAG TEAM OLD SCHOOL NINJA STYLE. LOL YOU TAKE CARE NOW.
What is differencevof brown stucco comparing to scratch ?
The scratch is scratch with a tool called a scarcifyer to score the surface while the mud is still wet. The brown is the second coat which is smoothed with a Darby to flatten the wall to desired flatness’s. It can then be painted or a third coat of stucco/plaster might go on
@@AbersonPlastering Thanks for your answer. But what is the reason for the scratch one ? Better bonding of the secong or theird coat, or covering more holes of not flat surface ? Brown coat direct is not enough ?
Next time ill try not to spill so much. Lol
Local 200. Journeyman plaster here asking why your working backwards is that something you guys do ?
Juan. After much consideration and personal surveys, I have come to the conclusion that there really is no right or wrong way or forwards or backwards. I was taught by union plasterers to go from right to left on scratch and brown then from left to right on finish coat.
You are not alone in your thoughts about which way to start the brown coat from. I have asked many new plasterers as well as old plasterers. Also I have watched videos of how and which way plasterers are going. If you watch Kirk, it doesnt matter where you start. He starts in the middle, and I dont believe he even thinks about it as it doesn't really matter. I could go deeper in thought as to how to build scaffold. Scaffold should be built from whichever way you are going to finish so that you can take the scaffold down as you go without saying, " excuse me but could you stand on the other plank for a moment".
Thanks for watching my videos.
I started plastering in 1970, don't do much anymore. We've always hand spread scratch and brown coats from right to left, it keeps your hawk on the outside and the trowel close to the wall. As you spread you pull into your previous spread creating a bond between joins. If you follow a gun, typically you go from left to right but not always. The sun and wind will a lot of times dictate in which direction you go as well as the progress of other contractors. But usually the process is always complimenting the right hander.
On finish coats it goes from left to right so you spread up and float the join on the down stroke continually moving backwards so you can always watch the wall and assure that the texture doesn't change.
I agree that nothing holds up as well as 3 coat but 1 coat acrylics are here to stay. I too miss the old interior plasters with the molded accents. These kids today can't imagine the artistry that true plasters of the day used to create. These days everything is stucco (blah) although I see some nice faux stonework over lath. Truly amazing workmanship.
Some of the stucco I see is some pretty shitty work. Follow the sun and you can see every stud outlined by shadow, and block walls show their mortar joints in rainy weather and no one seems to care about texture joints. There is no pride in the trade anymore. I'm glad that Ken and Kirt have taken the time to educate people in correct way to do our craft. My hat is off to both of you.
Just wanted to say Ken is the first you tuber that knows how to load his trowel off the front edge of the hawk. Everyone else I've seen just scoops it. Better keep that hawk close to the wall to catch the goobers. 😎
Why don't use a level ruler to check your work wether vertical or not. You didn't use the marks to control the thickness of the plaster.
Its called "wabi sabi" The art of imperfection. Look it up.
Because it’s not made in China , Wuhan!!!
hope OSHA don't drop by! LOL You need a new darby it looks like a bow!
Wow I hope your better at this now haha that Darby is more bent than a gay fellow, you put it on backwards (should be left to right if your right handed) and you dropped more in the floor than what's on the floor 😂 also try a sawing motion when you use the Darby. No hate by the way 😁
You are so wrong. But thank you for watching my video. Are you from Canada? Because Canadians and even Mexicans here in California plaster wrong as well. You know there is no written page anywhere that says what you wrote. I tell people this time and time again. You can start in the middle and work out, you could start on the left and go right, I like to plaster from the right and go left. Thats my personal preference. I like working with a left handed Mexican, because he will scratch from Left to the Right. Then we can meet in the middle. And I hardly spill any mud, EVER. And if my darby is bent, then I use the edge of it or I will break out my rod, which I do on larger pieces. Oh, No hate back atcha
YoYO Semite 😂funny kid
Right handed plasterers should always work from left to right.
I’ve been plastering for over 40 years and I have worked around some of the best plasterers out there and I know what I’m talking about. It’s not wrong for right hand plasters to go left to right but it’s that you are going over your work to much which is harder and slows you down which loses you money. You need to try it and you will see that the mud and work will flow instead of going over your work. After watching you I can tell you need a lot more practice and more years in. One day you will be there and can call yourself a journeyman. It take years to get there.
@@lallenh1 take it ez big guy
This dude can plaster