Hey Rick! Awesome job! I was watching a man from the UK do this technique, and he oiled first, then powder rubbed, and then burnished it. He described it like this: When you cut the wood with a blade, you push the wood fibers apart (so he uses a deeper angled edge, to make a wider push apart), then...after you rub the grounds in, you burnish the design (rub over it strongly with a flat, hard tool) to push the fibers of the wood back over the powder to "tattoo" it in. Like this: (powder). See how the wood, or parentheses, surround the powder? Anyway....that will keep your powder pact in there REALLY well so that it will last a long time. He also used raw linseed oil. I know it has a taste and smell...but I know it dries harder than most oils. :) He burnished them with the rounded, blunt spine of his blade...but you can use antler too. I hope this helps! :D
I believe that oiling before rubbing in the powder helps to seal the surface of the wood, so that the powder does not color the actual grain--just the engraved marks --and makes cleaning off the excess more successful. Depends on the grain of the particular wood, of course, and whether there are sanding scratches.
Fresh coffee ground for a coffee maker works very well. You probably lost the finer component of the coffee by using used grounds, part of the finer powder--you drank--and the rest remained in the fibers of the coffee filter. Certainly, it works very well for me. I like the paprika idea!
Today I found out, this works with chicory-based coffee substitute, too. If you first put some oil an your design, then you rub in the powder (it is very fine, but much cheaper than coffee or cocoa) and treat it with an antler or something, you get a good result.
Thanks for your great videos! For coffee "stain or fill, I love to take the coffee press "mud" that is found when you get to the bottom of the cup. I pour it out, let it dry and collect that into a jar (use it wet for staining). It is extremely fine because it made it through the coffee press fine grid.
You're forgetting a necessary step: After the oil, you want to burnish over the lines with a smooth stone or the back off a metal spoon (many even use a piece of deer antler); this will seal in the cut lines and help hold the carved pigment in the wood. Nice job though.
Great beginning tutorial. I think traditional charcoal, not coal, would be healthy to use and would have been readily available. I have seen a few original pieces from the mid 1800 to early 1900's that are free form in nature. Very beautiful.
I'd be interested to see what powdered charcoal would do, very easy to get a fine powder with it, you might even be able to get away with just rubbing a piece into the cuts?
I'm sure charcoal dust or coal dust would leave an amazing dark line, I just avoided it because I was using it on an eating utensil and a lot of people prefer to use organic materials. You could experiment on a piece of scrap wood to see what works best for you.
Hey Rick! Awesome job! I was watching a man from the UK do this technique, and he oiled first, then powder rubbed, and then burnished it. He described it like this: When you cut the wood with a blade, you push the wood fibers apart (so he uses a deeper angled edge, to make a wider push apart), then...after you rub the grounds in, you burnish the design (rub over it strongly with a flat, hard tool) to push the fibers of the wood back over the powder to "tattoo" it in. Like this: (powder). See how the wood, or parentheses, surround the powder? Anyway....that will keep your powder pact in there REALLY well so that it will last a long time. He also used raw linseed oil. I know it has a taste and smell...but I know it dries harder than most oils. :) He burnished them with the rounded, blunt spine of his blade...but you can use antler too. I hope this helps! :D
I believe that oiling before rubbing in the powder helps to seal the surface of the wood, so that the powder does not color the actual grain--just the engraved marks --and makes cleaning off the excess more successful. Depends on the grain of the particular wood, of course, and whether there are sanding scratches.
Fresh coffee ground for a coffee maker works very well. You probably lost the finer component of the coffee by using used grounds, part of the finer powder--you drank--and the rest remained in the fibers of the coffee filter.
Certainly, it works very well for me.
I like the paprika idea!
For a first time I thought it was wonderful. I am just beginning spoon and bowl carving. Loved watching your first experience.
Today I found out, this works with chicory-based coffee substitute, too. If you first put some oil an your design, then you rub in the powder (it is very fine, but much cheaper than coffee or cocoa) and treat it with an antler or something, you get a good result.
Nice method which I will use on other wooden toys. Really like how you present your ideas.
Thanks for your great videos! For coffee "stain or fill, I love to take the coffee press "mud" that is found when you get to the bottom of the cup. I pour it out, let it dry and collect that into a jar (use it wet for staining). It is extremely fine because it made it through the coffee press fine grid.
Thanks for the tip! I'm not a big coffee drinker but I guess that I'll have to find a friend that is!
You're forgetting a necessary step: After the oil, you want to burnish over the lines with a smooth stone or the back off a metal spoon (many even use a piece of deer antler); this will seal in the cut lines and help hold the carved pigment in the wood.
Nice job though.
*of not off... Long day. :)
You're a craft dude Rick! Thanks for video. God bless!
Thank You!
Rick, thanks for idea and inspiration!
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the kind words!
I wonder if taking a pastel stick and shaving it to powder would work. You could get any color out of it too.
seems a cool idea! spices too, like cinnamon
Hi! Good prezentation! Thanks!
I use cinnamon and apply a little bit of oil before rubbing in the cinnamon. Just a little advice if you continue with kolrosing.
Thanks for the tip!
Great job.
Thank You!
Great beginning tutorial.
I think traditional charcoal, not coal, would be healthy to use and would have been readily available. I have seen a few original pieces from the mid 1800 to early 1900's that are free form in nature. Very beautiful.
Charcoal was the original colourant.
It gives a distinct black line.
Experiment.
My dad used to do this
I'd be interested to see what powdered charcoal would do, very easy to get a fine powder with it, you might even be able to get away with just rubbing a piece into the cuts?
I'm sure charcoal dust or coal dust would leave an amazing dark line, I just avoided it because I was using it on an eating utensil and a lot of people prefer to use organic materials. You could experiment on a piece of scrap wood to see what works best for you.
@@RickMayotte Nice video but what do you think charcoal is....?
The design is on the _handle_ of the knife - moreover, it is _sealed_ , so does it _matter_ ?
That's cool .
Thanks, I thought so too.
i think its better with fine graunded charcoal
I'm sure that must leave a nice dark line. I think almost anything ground fine enough would probably work.
That is the worst video I have ever seen
Why?