Really great content!! I only have a Kraton 4s V2 which has a slipper clutch. It’s frustrating cause it just wheelies so you can’t control it on power, it only turns off power. Looking to get either a Big Rock 6s or Kraton 6s EXB. I don’t really do big jumps and flips rather drive open off road surfaces and prefer the car not to wheelie and also have good turn on power/acceleration. What oil thickness would you recommend F/M/R?
Those are both really cool rigs. I really like the blackout look of the Granite but the read of the Kraton is good too. It is a tough one because it depends what you want it to do, not to mention it is 6s... a lot of power for that scale. If you want the front end to pull, I would just do 1 million in the front, 500K center, and 200K rear. If you want something not too aggressive and still want a lot of turn in, you can go a light as 60K/500K/20K (F/C/R). The center diff is the one that will make the greatest change for wheelies... heavier=more wheelies. But too light and you will overheat it and cook the fluid. I would probably not go lower than 200K in the center. And I have been know to go to the extreem in the front and put 20 million (Traxxas makes it for the Xmaxx) in the front. The front diff diffs out a lot. Play with the front. Start with 50K with 500K in the center. Do 30K in the rear. When you take turns, see if the front is diffing out or if the car digs in too much into the front outer tire. If it does, bump up the front. I know my answer is not the best, but style of driving is key too. FYI the reason why I tend to go to extremes in the front diff such as 2 million (Kyosho makes it) or even 20 million is so the front pulls the vehicle or so it does not diff out on long fast turns. Usually these trucks flip on tight turns at high speed so I don't take turns fast tight enough to where just heavy front fluid would be a disadvantage. So, I would probably recommend 50K500K30K... But I actually do 2M500K30K on 4s. I do not run 6s as I think it is too much. And probably no one will run 2M in the front. On my 4x4 Slash... I have 20M in the front because it just kept getting stuck at low speed on some of the tall grass around here and loose dirt. Again, not the best answer, but I hope it helps explain what I do and why I do it. And 20M on the 1/5 Kraton for sure. Keep in mind those rigs have a lot of power and big tires... they will wheelie because they will wheelie. Throttle inputs is more important with high power. There is no setup that will allow you to not wheelie when punching it with that much power.
Thank you so much, that is such a well explained answer and giving me a few options to work with. I’ve watched your whole 101 series on diff and diff oils and understand it much better now. I’ve always liked the idea of a vehicle pulling more instead of pushing more. Heavy at the front medium in the middle and light at the back sounds good to me. Thanks and appreciate your time and trouble clarifying these.
Is there a center differential type that's hard connected to the front diff, but is only viscously coupled to the rear? Like... It's still a diff, but the front driveshaft is locked to the spur at all times.
Uhh... that sounds fun. It would bias the front... probably would help not to wheelie so much in some rigs. I have never seen one but sounds like something I want.
Thank the YT algo for sending me here. This info is gold. I wanted to make a lwb typhon that turns on power (power sliding fun really, not racing). Do you think f/c/r : 50/500/30 will work? Or should I go thicker in the rear?
A few things will come into play. I do not recall if Arrma makes a sway bar kit or if it comes with one. Go thicker in the rear and add a heavier sway bar at the rear. You can also run 0 degree toe in the rear and limit droop in the rear. Just make the arms level at neutral. Before changing diff fluid, try the other options first as they are easier.
Hi, what do you think about running 500k,500k,7k in a Maverick quantum r truck? I thinks it’s marketed as a drift truck but I want it to handle like a touring car
If you mean rear/center/front, that should be a good starting point but it may be best to go lighter in the rear such as below 100K. It will depend on the power you are putting through it. So, mind the center diff. temp. If it starts getting hot, go higher in the center. If it starts to wheelie too much, go lighter in the center.
Yeah sounds good. 500 500 7 front centre rear. It’s hard because most of the info on RUclips is about off road buggy’s and trucks suggesting weights like 7,10,5 f/c/r. Thanks
@@paragonwindows4520 The rear is generally lighter so it does not drift the rear and over steer. Now, in 1/10 TC we actually run spools in the front and no diff in the center. This way full power goes to the front outer wheel. The rear is generally pretty light. There is not magic number, but look at the front tires... if it over steers entering the corner, your front diff might be too light.
None of this stuff mattered until I laid down some black pipe and mounds of clay..lol...now it really matters.!!!!.. Thanks 😁👍👍👍
Really great content!! I only have a Kraton 4s V2 which has a slipper clutch. It’s frustrating cause it just wheelies so you can’t control it on power, it only turns off power.
Looking to get either a Big Rock 6s or Kraton 6s EXB. I don’t really do big jumps and flips rather drive open off road surfaces and prefer the car not to wheelie and also have good turn on power/acceleration. What oil thickness would you recommend F/M/R?
Those are both really cool rigs. I really like the blackout look of the Granite but the read of the Kraton is good too. It is a tough one because it depends what you want it to do, not to mention it is 6s... a lot of power for that scale. If you want the front end to pull, I would just do 1 million in the front, 500K center, and 200K rear. If you want something not too aggressive and still want a lot of turn in, you can go a light as 60K/500K/20K (F/C/R). The center diff is the one that will make the greatest change for wheelies... heavier=more wheelies. But too light and you will overheat it and cook the fluid. I would probably not go lower than 200K in the center. And I have been know to go to the extreem in the front and put 20 million (Traxxas makes it for the Xmaxx) in the front. The front diff diffs out a lot. Play with the front. Start with 50K with 500K in the center. Do 30K in the rear. When you take turns, see if the front is diffing out or if the car digs in too much into the front outer tire. If it does, bump up the front. I know my answer is not the best, but style of driving is key too.
FYI the reason why I tend to go to extremes in the front diff such as 2 million (Kyosho makes it) or even 20 million is so the front pulls the vehicle or so it does not diff out on long fast turns. Usually these trucks flip on tight turns at high speed so I don't take turns fast tight enough to where just heavy front fluid would be a disadvantage. So, I would probably recommend 50K500K30K... But I actually do 2M500K30K on 4s. I do not run 6s as I think it is too much. And probably no one will run 2M in the front. On my 4x4 Slash... I have 20M in the front because it just kept getting stuck at low speed on some of the tall grass around here and loose dirt. Again, not the best answer, but I hope it helps explain what I do and why I do it. And 20M on the 1/5 Kraton for sure.
Keep in mind those rigs have a lot of power and big tires... they will wheelie because they will wheelie. Throttle inputs is more important with high power. There is no setup that will allow you to not wheelie when punching it with that much power.
Thank you so much, that is such a well explained answer and giving me a few options to work with. I’ve watched your whole 101 series on diff and diff oils and understand it much better now. I’ve always liked the idea of a vehicle pulling more instead of pushing more. Heavy at the front medium in the middle and light at the back sounds good to me. Thanks and appreciate your time and trouble clarifying these.
Is there a center differential type that's hard connected to the front diff, but is only viscously coupled to the rear? Like... It's still a diff, but the front driveshaft is locked to the spur at all times.
Uhh... that sounds fun. It would bias the front... probably would help not to wheelie so much in some rigs. I have never seen one but sounds like something I want.
Thank the YT algo for sending me here. This info is gold.
I wanted to make a lwb typhon that turns on power (power sliding fun really, not racing).
Do you think f/c/r : 50/500/30 will work? Or should I go thicker in the rear?
A few things will come into play. I do not recall if Arrma makes a sway bar kit or if it comes with one. Go thicker in the rear and add a heavier sway bar at the rear. You can also run 0 degree toe in the rear and limit droop in the rear. Just make the arms level at neutral. Before changing diff fluid, try the other options first as they are easier.
@@telecomandorc perfect thanks so much!
@@Ryndel You are welcome. 🤝
Hi, what do you think about running 500k,500k,7k in a Maverick quantum r truck? I thinks it’s marketed as a drift truck but I want it to handle like a touring car
If you mean rear/center/front, that should be a good starting point but it may be best to go lighter in the rear such as below 100K. It will depend on the power you are putting through it. So, mind the center diff. temp. If it starts getting hot, go higher in the center. If it starts to wheelie too much, go lighter in the center.
Yeah sounds good. 500 500 7 front centre rear. It’s hard because most of the info on RUclips is about off road buggy’s and trucks suggesting weights like 7,10,5 f/c/r. Thanks
@@paragonwindows4520 The rear is generally lighter so it does not drift the rear and over steer. Now, in 1/10 TC we actually run spools in the front and no diff in the center. This way full power goes to the front outer wheel. The rear is generally pretty light. There is not magic number, but look at the front tires... if it over steers entering the corner, your front diff might be too light.