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It is much better with the Supra tires. It is not much fun with the stock tires.

IT is. I hope they come out with this for the TRX4mt

@@telecomandorc i’m thinking Furitek

I have to check my numbers. It had more rpm but the G4 had more torque if I recall. But the Helix has more torque. I recall the V2 being great for buggy and the Helix for SCT.

Good suggestion.

You should be able to but the motor will probably heat up. I am assuming it is the Castle 1406. If so, this motor is much shorter at about 50mm vs the 1412 at 62.5mm of length. You might have to gear down a little due to the lower torque. But it should hit that speed but not for long due to heat.

For sure. 😎

The 4-Tec 2.0 does but it is a bit too heavy to be competitive in most race classes. It is even to heavy for VTA.

@@telecomandorc True. I guess AUW is 1.7kg

@@howintesting940 But some tracks do have 4-Tec classes. The best one is the VTA 4-Tec.

Yes. Thanks!

@@howintesting940 My pleasure.

I am glad. Cheers.

It may have come on "mute". It is working fine in the play list.

That was a really good sale though. It is just about what you want to do with it. I would start with this: ruclips.net/video/prOtYO1p-nI/видео.html I would also lock the front diff. You can also consider: ruclips.net/video/phNn35u3sLI/видео.html

😃 You just gave me an idea.

On 3s 5200mah 50 c 75 spur 25 pinion I made 11.34 volts 53.53 amps and 617.7Watts of power

😁 Thank you. Gear diff is easier to tune.

My pleasure.

Always a good option. 🤝

Reminds me of the Arrma Limitless. That thing drifts all day. Fun stuff.

I have a follow up to this. Springs did all the difference. Stiffer in the front mainly. Extracrispy ran his after tuning it and it podiumed with the top cars.

You have my vote. Then you can go back and forth between the two and you get the better tires.

I am not sure what the question is referring to, but depending on the weather: 83T spur with pinions ranging from 47-52T.

@@telecomandorc Sorry, i was sleeping while typing that. In one of your other videos you mentioned that you were going to run the Helix in VTA. I was wondering how that worked for you? I have an MC5 and i'm not thrilled with it.

@@warren6814 It is good, but it needs to rev. Make sure to gear it a bit lower. Although, compared to the MC5 you might be around the same gearing but the Fantom has more RPM. But Fantom is the way to go. But do not get too cought up on motors. Unfortunatly, VTA is the class most people cheat in if tech inspections are not strict. So you might be going up against Outlaw motors. I told the owner of a track once and ran an Outlaw myself to see if I could match the top guys on the straights and... surprise surprise... I did match them. But the Fantom is the best in my books.

😨 No lo había pensado. Ufa, ¿Qué hice? Oh, well. 🤔Time to make another cartoon. This will be a tough one.

Thank you. 🤝

Specially when riding. Not sure how cowboys do it.

🤝 My pleasure

With the stock system? You cannot get both. You either gear down (larger spur or smaller pinion) for more accelerations, but it will peak fast and have low top end. Or you can gear high (smaller spur or larger pinion) but it would accelerate slower but eventually have more top end. If you have a chance, consider: ruclips.net/video/8nTBMHc2eIk/видео.html Do you have a Titan 12T or a BL-2s?

@@telecomandorcI have nitro brother, 3.3 single speed

@@josephybarra3555 Gearing still applies. But a leaner mixture will yield more power and more speed but higher temps. Do not exceed 275F. Another options is the O.S. replacement for the TRX3.3. Unless you know someone who will tune your 3.3 by working on the ports in the sleeve.

@@telecomandorc awesome thank you for the help brother 🙏🏽

@@josephybarra3555 My pleasure. Side note: I geared my Nitro Slash. Amain has the gears.

Greatly appreciated.

Anyone, chime in. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Some thoughts: You have a 72T spur. Have you considered running the 69T. Try the 69T spur and a 35T pinion. Lock out the slipper if you are running a slipper. Slippers will slow you down a tenth or more per lap.

@telecomandorc I don't currently have a 69. I thought about trying that but they don't have one at LHS I'd have to order one, I may do that in the future. For now I just have a 72, so not sure what to try for a pinion with 21.5 I also only have the slipper but I'm racing on High grip clay, I thought the direct drive was more for carpet?

@@MX-CO The slipper is more to save the idler gear. If you take a jump the go to throttle before the rear tires land, you can break the idler without a slipper. Carpet is higher grip than clay in my opinion since we run pins on the tires. You can always torque it down more. See what the other guys are running.

@@telecomandorc OK gotcha, I was thinking it was more for traction, and I thought the direct drive on dirt would be more likely to lose traction.

I tried both the 28 and the 30 today, both stayed cool enough, little faster with 30, I could probably go bigger though

Are you doing the switch because the class is 21.5T. If not, stick with the 17.5T. You that is a 21.5T class, that is awesome. Makes for a bit closer racing. I am not sure. It depends on temperature. What Pinion are you running with the 17.5T? You can probably go up 30%. Say you run a 17T, you can start with a 24T. Or if you run a 25T try a 30T. Then take the temperature after five laps. The adjust or run it longer until you can run 5 minutes between 150-160F. If you go over 160F gear down if you are at 130F gear up.

@telecomandorc I'm switching to a 21.5 class just because I'm new and 17.5 is very fast, and I crash a lot. I'm just trying to get some experience in 21.5, and then I'll likely move back up to 17.5., both classes are very competitive in my area. (Whip it RC Raceway in Reno Nevada)

I bought a 17.5 surpass V6 prior to getting a 21.5 and the 17.5 rips, it's very fast. I'm hoping the 21. 5 will be fast for a 21.5 as well. I haven't tried it yet

@@MX-CO If you already bought the 21.5T, go for it. If not, just drom the timing on the 17.5T to 35 degrees. The 21.5T Fantom does about 2900Kv at 48-50 degrees. The 17.5T will have about the same Kv at about 35-37degrees. Try turning the timing down on your 17.5T fist. Or see if your Tx will allow you to set Ch2 to 80%.

I'm entering a 21.5 class, so I think I have to run a 21.5 to race that class, I have both motors now. But at least they are cheaper than most. I got the 17.5 and The 21.5 both for about the price of one high end phantom or another high end certified motor. And the 17 5 rips, I haven't yet tried the 21.5

I thought I had replied to this post, or maybe someone else asked the same questions. It is always possible someone is cheating, but Fantom motors are awesome. I ran a 25.5T in F1 and that motor just blow past others. The 21.5T motor I ran was also similar but not as much as the 25.5T. I would have to see it. I way this because I ran the Fantoms for a while. But some guys still blew some of us away. So I ran an outlaw motor and slowed down a bit in the infield and tried to time the straight to enter at a similar time, and bingo. I shared my "experiments" with the owner and my suspicions were confirmed. The owner cracked down on a few and they were upset. Especially one who saw my motor. 😆 Maybe I will make a video someday talking about shenanigans.

I have heard the same. And it is possible. But the rotor specs on the Surpass I bought was just better. Then again, that does not mean much as other companies could be requesting different rotor specs for different goals.

I would take the Rocket. Great price and keeps pace. The rotor is strong in the Rocket.

Party doesn't end until the last person leaves, so your are just in time. You will need the TRA5853X. the shafts of the two models are different diameter.

@@telecomandorc I probably wouldn't have noticed that myself, thx👍

It would be in this video. The disc is part of the hex. All you need to remove is the red caliper. Once you remove it, the disc slips out.

@@telecomandorc thank you.

@@ecowahm Anytime. 🤝

Laps per a set amount of time. So who ever makes more laps.

I have not done F1 in carpet. Only asphalt. And my pick is Fantom Helix RS 25.5T. I sum up my thoughts in this video: ruclips.net/video/VW5x9GZIRiQ/видео.html

@@telecomandorc Thank you!

@@DennisLHahn My pleasure.

Very nice. Let me know what your thoughts are after you run it.

Thank you, my friend. 🤝

I would get the Fantom RS over and over again. I may make a video in the future.

So its better than the Surpass V6?​@telecomandorc

@@MX-CO I think it is. The Fantom is better. but someone with more skill and a V6 will beat a Fantom. But a skilled driver with a Fantom will take the field.

It could be both. Now, I am a fan of Fantom RS motors. My 25.5 was a rocket. My 21.5 was awesome. I could pull on other cars and other drivers though I had something going on. They were just awesome. Now, for VTA I did take an outlaw motor and run it. I would take my time to get to the straight and then try to match people on the straight. This is how I found many people were cheating. I did tell the owner what I was doing. The thing is the Fantom RS is truly and "alpha". So it is hard to tell. I am not sure how large your track is. 49 sec is between 2 and 3 laps here. That is a lot. The guy could be running the outlaw version. Or the guy is a pro driver and has his car dialed.

​@@telecomandorcHis car is clearly faster but he isn't a pro driver, there are much better drivers at the track. But his car is very clearly faster on the straights, and clears jumps that no one else in the class can.

@@MX-CO It might be the outlaw model. The Fantom Helix RS and Outlaw versions look very similar. Just peak to see if it is an Outlaw.

For 21.5T I would get whatever cost less. This motor is really underrated. When it comes to the HW G4, Fantom RS, and Surpass Rocket V6 it will be all about driver and setup. I would get the best deal out there. I have only used then on asphalt, so let me know what you think about them on carpet.

@@telecomandorc I'm actually running 17.5 sorry forgot to mention that. If it makes a difference

You would need custom offset wheels. But I doubt it will work. The only thing I can think of is mounting the body up high. You can always keep the buggy arms and axles and put SCT wheels while lifting the body.

If the Slash build kit is the old version: ruclips.net/video/9lihqpwAwUg/видео.html That is video 1 of the series I have. Now to your question. It depends on the surface you will drive it one. Think of the Rustler as a short Slash. The Rustler has a 2.5 engine which is alright. The Slash has the better 3.3. I would not trade the 3.3 for the 2.5. The advantage the Rustler has is the body. It helps keep the inside less dirty if you run on dusty surfaces. That's about it. The Slash has a better front bumper just in case. The Rustler does not flip as easily. I would not Slash. The Revo 3.3 is fun too and has better clearance over grass. If you are running on grass, any Slash 2WD is a bad idea. Between the nitro Rustler and Slash, I would go Slash. Plus if you ever get board with the Nitro Slash you can always turn it into a "muscle car" like I did. Here is the basic build: ruclips.net/video/1zRk-gT6_2U/видео.html

@@telecomandorc thanks for the response. I’ve been watching your build series on the slash, thanks for those videos. The one I just ordered has the new brushless motor and lipo batteries. We would be running it on street, dirt (softball fields, dirt RC track) and lots of grass. I do like the design of the rustler; how it has the tires on the outside, and its CG is a bit lower which helps it not get airborne as frequently or often during the speed runs. I do know it has the smaller 2.5 engine, but reviews I’ve watched have said it’s sufficient for the size of the truck, since it is a good amount smaller than the slash. Makes sense why they put the 3.3 in the slash.

@@ericmanning8010 That makes sense. A few notes. The HCG is far better on grass as it does not bog down as much due to less surface area scrubbing. The nitro engine will die fast on softball fields if you do not change out the air cleaner after every tank. That fine dust will scratch up the bore. That is a plus of the Rustler body. I really like the new motor (BL-2s) compared to the Titan. The run times are longer and it is a bit faster. Enjoy what you decide to go with. They are all fun one way or another.

@@telecomandorc I appreciate all the good info and advice. Sounds like I better buy me some extra air filters and have them at the ready!

Enjoy your build. It is a pleasure to complete a project and more fun to race it. Cheers.

They are good motors, but is this a fixed timing class or open 13.5T? If it is open 13.5T and you can run any timing, I would look into a Hobbywing G4 or a Fantom RS. Both of there come out of the box with great rotors. Here is the link to the HW 13.5T: ruclips.net/video/X2ebQrK6zUM/видео.html If you go into my channel and type 13.5T I think I have done maybe 9 13.5T videos. Feel free to check them out.

It has an expo setting to adjust the responsiveness.

@@telecomandorcthat’s what you were talking about at 19 minutes right? I noticed the problem being twitchy in the corners I just got this remote to solve this exact issue as I’m wobbling at top speed mid turn

@@Stoned_Sparky Oh, that sounds more like a bad servo or Rx. I have only had this happen with a bad servo or the TSM (Traxxas) or stabilizers enabled in different models. I have not had this happen with my Futaba but I never run any gyro or stabilizers. If you have a gyro, turn it off and see what it does.

@@telecomandorc it’s a r203gf receiver I didn’t think it had a gyro and the servo is a box shock sr10 servo maybe it could be weak? I had a guy at my track say it’s the steering speed it’s too fast we race pavement oval asphalt if that helps

@@telecomandorc we are making turns at like 30mph banked asphalt oval maybe the servo can’t handle that speed?

I like the setup. That should be a clean look with the Mustang body.

My pleasure.

My pleasure. 🤝