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It is not bad but you still need to reinforce the rear fenders. Other than that, it did last.

It does not. It is just a roller.

Also where do u get your body from?

@@v1zno547 Amain hobbies. They have some cool stuff. www.amainhobbies.com/discount-coupon-code

You can. You probably just have a larger rotor. So it will use more amps for similar rpm, but you can gear higher.

Thank you so much. Merry Christmas.

@@telecomandorc And to you!!! Merry Christmas to you also.

What is it doing? 10-30 in the rear sounds good. But... are you running a center diff.? If so, you may want to tune this one first.

@ what happened was I tuned the opposite and went heavy in rear with 500k and only had 100k in front. My center has 20ml and I made sure it was filled so that was good. The back end was whipping around. So I put 1ml in front and it’s so much better. Now I want to get that rear perfect because it still has the rear coming around when trying to apply throttle out of turn

@@telecomandorc I put 30k in rear and you’re right. I could have put 10k in. I’m going to run it for a little bit and then go 10k. I am realistic because it is a monster truck and not a 4x4 slash so you can only get so good of handling

@@jackcarmichael2476 Makes sense. I see why you want to go lighter in the rear. The center seems light. Work on the rear as you mentioned before. If you start seeing the front unload, bring up the center diff fluid weight.

@@jackcarmichael2476 I think you are spot on with you reasoning in tuning.

Here you go: ruclips.net/video/4bu2h1VPuuI/видео.html Since I started doing the English and Spanish videos, I try using ENG for the English and ESP for Spanish. So just type ENG and it should come up in case you search my channel for other videos. And thank you for watching. I am glad you liked the other video.

@ Thank you! And keep up the great work.

@@jackcarmichael2476 My pleasure.

Check the Rx. You either pugged the esc and servo down one slot or you revered them. Sometimes the 1st slot in an Rx is the accessory slot or Batt, and the 2 slot is Ch1 (steering) and Ch3 is throttle.

Nice. they dropped the price. It was that, then it got bumped up. Good to know it is back down.

It will handle a 10.5 motor, but there is no timing. It's a spec esc. You need the 100A version.

@@telecomandorc so,I can't use the timing from the motor?

Chatgpt said it's a blinky esc,so I can change it into a non blinky esc and use the timing from the supersonic rocket 10.5t

@@SaniHjsabtu Sorry. I misread it. I thought you meant timing and turbo in the esc. The motor, yes, to can use the timing in the motor. But a 10.5T motor will not take much timing before it start consuming a lot of amps and heating up.

@@SaniHjsabtu Correct. blinky has not timing or turbo or boost. What is the application?

If you are sure it is on lipo, it will probably be the battery. But, just to make sure, use a healthy battery in case it is the esc. It is usually the battery, but just in case.

@ ok 👍🏼 thanks

That is a good idea.

@ simple as simple is as a car stand. Probably work the best for touring cars or 1/10 buggy’s.

@@jwfabworks3141 Those are the two lowers cars. It could work on a mini crawler by making a hole where the diff is.

@@telecomandorc for sure buddy. Many many uses for those things.

I usually get the basic motors.

The first thing that came to my mind was, 272R in an Astute, that's cool.

@@telecomandorc wish I could post a pic up of it for you

I am glad it was helpful.

I was holing it with one had and driving with the other. My cameraman is on leave.

Those are good questions. I hope someone can help us. I no longer have access to that Losi. And I cannot find an RPM option.

Many things. It could be that you let off to fast or too late and weight is transferred to the front too fast. It could be that the front tires simply have more grip. It could be that your front springs are too soft and the oil too light. It could be that there is more than .5mm in ride high difference between the front and rear where the rear is higher.

@@telecomandorc thanks

@@polowong8558 My pleasure. 🤝

@@polowong8558 My pleasure.

Thank you so much. Definitely helps.

🤣 it will blow up long before them.

Defiantly more meat on the teeth of a mod1. But I do not know of a conversion that keeps the center bearing.

Thank you.

🤝 Thank you kindly.

It can. You can charge it up to 10 amps if you wanted.

@telecomandorc Thank you for replying. I am looking a few. Do not need competition level. Just something reliable.

@@thunderbomb515 This would be good enough.

@@thunderbomb515 This is the way to go. HiTec use to make some good ones too for about $50.

Thanks. If only it fit. to bump the runtime.

Correcto. Bueno, en césped que tiene más resistencia. Y con pocas pausas. Así que 15 minutos sería lo mínimo.

Que batería tu recomendación para más duración?

@@luiscorrea8089 No hay opciones por el momento que queden sin modificar el chasis.

I have 4 skagen's, and live in the US. quality, good looking and affordable.

@@spike-- Absolutely. I bought mine at Costco over a decade ago... close to two. I just pop the back and swap the battery.

Play with the timing. You might want to try somewhere between 47-52 degrees. I have this video where I purposely overheated the motor to see how it would last: ruclips.net/video/8GXasCvDzrY/видео.html Here I go into more details and I mention gearing too.

Thanks! Any advice on motor maintenance on this? My first brushless motor. I’ve been a nitro head forever.

@@Thatbodytech Blushless motors are really easy. Just use an air compressor to lightly dust it. and once in a while put a drop oil bearing oil on the front and rear baring. By once in while, I mean rarely. They are pretty low maintenance. But do not oil the internal ever. It is just a small drop on each bearing.

I have a set of GTR XXL shocks I think I am going to install just for kicks. The first think though will the the diff fluid.

@@telecomandorc let us know how that works out. I thought about it because they are so loose but wasn't sure if it would make it MORE squirrelly. I have some springs for the GTR shocks im going to try also.

It is. It is called Lemo. It is a community center 2575 E Bayshore Rd, Redwood City, CA 94063

Thanks. 🤝 Now I need to what his show.

It is a RunCam. You just need a standard connector to solder to it and pug it into the Rx. You only need the + and - wires. You could also use a small 5V battery.

Which runcam did you use?

@@Thatbodytech It is the RUN Thum. But I do not think they make it. I think it was replaced with the Freestyle. They have the Run Thum Pro 4K but the one I have would have been in the middle of the two as far a price. Although, the shape is similar to the Run Thum Pro 4K.

🤝

My pleasure... Good choice. It is less expensive and the motors can handle high voltage in case you want to push 3s-4s in the future.

@@telecomandorc Thanks for all of the suggestions.. I just have to figure out what to do with the old E' Tronics. I really wanted the Tekin gear but the LHS i went to had the CC C10 kit in stock. I've been seeing on FB and some of their groups folks complaining of melted wires/ESC's and the like. I was scared of CC but i decided to take a chance. One guy i think was exceeding the current rated connectors...

@@telecomandorc BTW i dropped you an email...

@@gewglesux I have never had wires met. But I have had wires unsolder or the capacitors wetting the bed (CC replaced the Bamba Moster X at no cost). Interestingly, it has only happened to me on 3s (never on 2s or 4s). It is the ripple voltage usually or the motor is geared way too high.

@@gewglesux Received. And thank you so much. 🤝

El Jato porque es 4x4.

@telecomandorc pero el nuevo rustle también es 4x4

@@adrianescamilla7132 Ah, disculpe. Ambos se basan en la Slash 4x4. Yo elegiría el Jato porque los amortiguadores son más grandes en cuestión de volumen de aceite. Ya que el Jato es un buggy, tiene ala trasera que ayuda much con la aerodinámica a velocidad.

Good point. 👍

Usually you can just turn it to 0. And sometimes the Rx just wets the bed.

Awesome 😎