Alcohol or acetone should remove the adhesive, especially if it is in an unseen position. A couple of years back I formed a canopy for my helicopter primarily because a mate told me that I couldn’t 😂. Used a green two liter bottle and just a tiny bit of heat gun because it was almost perfect as it was. I need a couple of replacement parts for some old kits I just acquired, perfect timing! Thanks for your help 😊
This was a LOT better than another video about scratch-building a canopy! In the other video, the guy bought a manufactured canopy and modified it to fit! NOT scratch-built! Well done here.
Dear Mark, thank you for another great how-to video. Thanks to you I am planning to try my first scratch bulid of an Avanti in the future. Much appreciated. Fotios, Greece.
You could always add a little extra wood around the bottom and back edge of the canopy to make getting those edges where you need them and then trim it to size when done!
Fantastic video! Super helpful. I had no idea that soda bottles will shrink with heat like heat shrink tubing. I will make one for my Hangar 9 Aresti 40. The old canopy popped off during my last flight was was lost. I'll need to make a frame for the canopy & glue to two together. It will snap onto the Aresti- this is really a removeable hatch to access and connect the LIPO battery. Thanks again!
Dear Mark, I have just discovered your channel and I found it great. I'm also in the process for repairing a glider and a part to be repaired is the canopy, I found your video very useful. I also have a tip for you ;). You mentioned problems with the glue in the bottles. I have a solution for this. I have been using “3 in 1”, “6 in 1” or “WD40” (the name depends on the country) oil for cleaning bottles. I use a kitchen paper and this oil to clean label sticky surfaces on plastic or glass Amazingly it works great and the surface is totally clean. I finish it with alcohol and the surface is perfect. Xavier
When having simple canopies this is a great method. But i struggled forming complicated shapes especialy when both ends must be done. So i built a little vacuum forming box which works great even with cowlings.
I have found making a new canopy, (usually repairing crashed model) a trying experience. Finding a PET bottle big enough for large model plane: e.g. .75, 1.20 cu or larger. I've spent more money buying large water containers & experimenting with those, when I probably could have bought a new canopy, ( if one was still available for the model ). I've had more success making canopies by building a vacuum forming box & PETG sheets. But, when it comes to all facets of aeromodelling, it take time & patience. Great detailed video, excellent job. I will try some of your tips for next time. cheers from down under.
Certainly using plastic bottles has its limitations of size, this one for the Avanti is about as big as you can practically go with this method. Pleased you enjoyed the video, thanks for the comment 😀
Very great video Mark!..Highly informative... I got my self also not to long ago a lovely Italian C/L kit, and the genuine canopy is not all that good because of the age. I will for sure try your way soon. I did one for my p 38 some years ago, but this process is a bit different and is working lovely! Well done mate!.. Look forward to see it the model ready in the air! Best regards from Holland!
Thanks for the great method, the results are excellent. I just wanted to mention that I had some success polishing out fine surface scratches with a fine grit aluminium polishing paste. It might be worth a try whilst everything is tight together on the stick. By the way, the scratches would show up better if your former was painted in black. 👍🏼
Absolutely brilliant Mark !!! You've certainly inspired me !!! NOW !!! I'm guessing you're using cider bottles to experiment with ? Are any particular flavor cider bottles more favorable for canopy experiments ??? Great job !!! 😉😎
Such an interesting video. I know you're a balsa man and a first rate craftsman, but have you thought of cutting your plug from a block of polyurethane foam cut from an insulation panel rather than balsa? This foam cuts easily with a hot wire wand (smells a bit of course!) and is very rigid. It's also very easy to sand. One unknown as far as I'm concerned is how it would stand up to the heat from a hot air gun. I'm a bit of a scavenger and picked a dicarded piece of 80mm panel from a builder's skip! Using this stuff I sculpted a piece to repair a damaged foamy.
Hi there, thanks for the comment, greatly appreciated, I have thought about using alternatives like foam, but I do like working with balsa. Great idea using old insulation foam, I should give it a go, thanks 😀
A very good demonstration of the technique. I've long been aware of the method but never dared to try it (I don't drink fizzy pop :) ). Most of my models are open cockpit but when I build one that needs a canopy I'll certainly have a go. The only hot air gun I have is the one I use for covering but I've heated crankcases with it to replace bearings so it may be enough for a canopy. Might it be worth putting the job in a vice as third hand once the bottom is shrunk? We have some stuff called 'Sticky stuff remover' which does what it says on the bottle. No idea where my wife bought it but it works when trying to get labels off things like pottery mugs.
I used to make canopies like this for years, but I've had better results doing this in an oven recently. Everything else applies and you have to put some clamps on the loose rear end, but shove it in an oven at 100°C and you will get some initial shrinkage, if all looks good up the temp to 180 ish and watch while it heats up. It will shrink very evenly and smoothly with kess chance of scorching which is so easy to do with the heat gun. Whole process done in about 5mis.
Thanks for the comment, pleased you liked the video. When building from old plans, like for this 1974 Avanti, stock canopies are simply not available, or if needing to replace a canopy on an ARF. And I guess in reality if they were available they would be far mor expensive than the block of balsa.
Alcohol or acetone should remove the adhesive, especially if it is in an unseen position. A couple of years back I formed a canopy for my helicopter primarily because a mate told me that I couldn’t 😂. Used a green two liter bottle and just a tiny bit of heat gun because it was almost perfect as it was. I need a couple of replacement parts for some old kits I just acquired, perfect timing! Thanks for your help 😊
@@wrstew1272 Thank you very much for the comment and suggestion, greatly appreciated. 😀
Excellent tutorial. You are an amazingly talented artisan. Thank you.
Thank you so much, greatly appreciate the kind comment 😀
This was a LOT better than another video about scratch-building a canopy! In the other video, the guy bought a manufactured canopy and modified it to fit! NOT scratch-built! Well done here.
Thank you very much for the kind comment, really pleased you like the video
Dear Mark, thank you for another great how-to video. Thanks to you I am planning to try my first scratch bulid of an Avanti in the future. Much appreciated. Fotios, Greece.
Thank you very much, pleased you found the video helpful, you will love the Avanti, great plans, design and flies great! 😀
Great demo. I never knew the plastic could be shrunk like that!
Thank you, pleased you enjoyed it
Wonderful! I'm going to follow these instructions to make a canopy for my next scratch build! :D
Thank you for the comment, really pleased you liked the video and found it helpful 😀
Brilliant and timely. I will be building one for my home-built RC plane
Thanks for the comment, pleased you enjoyed the video 😀
I just felt in love with the heatgun :D
You could always add a little extra wood around the bottom and back edge of the canopy to make getting those edges where you need them and then trim it to size when done!
Fantastic video! Super helpful. I had no idea that soda bottles will shrink with heat like heat shrink tubing. I will make one for my Hangar 9 Aresti 40. The old canopy popped off during my last flight was was lost. I'll need to make a frame for the canopy & glue to two together. It will snap onto the Aresti- this is really a removeable hatch to access and connect the LIPO battery. Thanks again!
Thanks for the comment, pleased you found it helpful. Good luck with making your replacement 😀
Dear Mark, I have just discovered your channel and I found it great. I'm also in the process for repairing a glider and a part to be repaired is the canopy, I found your video very useful.
I also have a tip for you ;). You mentioned problems with the glue in the bottles. I have a solution for this. I have been using “3 in 1”, “6 in 1” or “WD40” (the name depends on the country) oil for cleaning bottles.
I use a kitchen paper and this oil to clean label sticky surfaces on plastic or glass Amazingly it works great and the surface is totally clean.
I finish it with alcohol and the surface is perfect.
Xavier
Hi Xavier, thanks for the comment, pleased you like the channel. Thanks for the tip, I will have to try that next time 😀
Learning from you all the time Mark . Appreciate the effort you put into making these videos. Really helpful for my future builds. Thankyou .!
You are welcome, thank you for the comment, really pleased you like the videos
When having simple canopies this is a great method. But i struggled forming complicated shapes especialy when both ends must be done. So i built a little vacuum forming box which works great even with cowlings.
How did you make it??
Awesome Video Mark! Love all you How to's.. Would love to see a video on making the plug!
Thank you very much, really appreciate the comment 😀
I have found making a new canopy, (usually repairing crashed model) a trying experience. Finding a PET bottle big enough for large model plane: e.g. .75, 1.20 cu or larger. I've spent more money buying large water containers & experimenting with those, when I probably could have bought a new canopy, ( if one was still available for the model ).
I've had more success making canopies by building a vacuum forming box & PETG sheets. But, when it comes to all facets of aeromodelling, it take time & patience. Great detailed video, excellent job. I will try some of your tips for next time. cheers from down under.
Certainly using plastic bottles has its limitations of size, this one for the Avanti is about as big as you can practically go with this method. Pleased you enjoyed the video, thanks for the comment 😀
Hi Mark. I have used this method from watching your previous video on this subject and yes it works very well. 👍😊
Thank you Terry, appreciate the comment 😀
Very great video Mark!..Highly informative... I got my self also not to long ago a lovely Italian C/L kit, and the genuine canopy is not all that good because of the age. I will for sure try your way soon. I did one for my p 38 some years ago, but this process is a bit different and is working lovely! Well done mate!.. Look forward to see it the model ready in the air! Best regards from Holland!
Glad it was helpful, thank you very much for the comment its greatly appreciated 😀
Thanks for the great method, the results are excellent. I just wanted to mention that I had some success polishing out fine surface scratches with a fine grit aluminium polishing paste. It might be worth a try whilst everything is tight together on the stick. By the way, the scratches would show up better if your former was painted in black. 👍🏼
Thank you very much for the comment, and appreciate the great suggestion, really pleased you enjoyed the video 😀
Great video Mark very useful info again 😀
Glad it was helpful, trhank you for the comment
Absolutely brilliant Mark !!! You've certainly inspired me !!! NOW !!! I'm guessing you're using cider bottles to experiment with ? Are any particular flavor cider bottles more favorable for canopy experiments ??? Great job !!! 😉😎
Hahahaha, thanks for the comment, pleased you enjoyed the video, thanks for the comment 😀
Nicely done, thanks for the education
Your welcome, thanks for the comment 😀
Hint: the sticky glue can easily be removed with turpentine, and it won't damage the PET bottle.
Thanks very much, appreciate the suggestion 😀
Such an interesting video. I know you're a balsa man and a first rate craftsman, but have you thought of cutting your plug from a block of polyurethane foam cut from an insulation panel rather than balsa? This foam cuts easily with a hot wire wand (smells a bit of course!) and is very rigid. It's also very easy to sand. One unknown as far as I'm concerned is how it would stand up to the heat from a hot air gun. I'm a bit of a scavenger and picked a dicarded piece of 80mm panel from a builder's skip! Using this stuff I sculpted a piece to repair a damaged foamy.
Hi there, thanks for the comment, greatly appreciated, I have thought about using alternatives like foam, but I do like working with balsa. Great idea using old insulation foam, I should give it a go, thanks 😀
A very good demonstration of the technique. I've long been aware of the method but never dared to try it (I don't drink fizzy pop :) ). Most of my models are open cockpit but when I build one that needs a canopy I'll certainly have a go. The only hot air gun I have is the one I use for covering but I've heated crankcases with it to replace bearings so it may be enough for a canopy.
Might it be worth putting the job in a vice as third hand once the bottom is shrunk? We have some stuff called 'Sticky stuff remover' which does what it says on the bottle. No idea where my wife bought it but it works when trying to get labels off things like pottery mugs.
Thank you very much
Excellent 👍👍👍
Thank you very much, pleased you enjoyed it 😀
Another great video Mark.
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you very much 😀
これはうまいやり方ですね。今度試します。
ありがとうございます。興味深いものを見つけてうれしく思います
I used to make canopies like this for years, but I've had better results doing this in an oven recently. Everything else applies and you have to put some clamps on the loose rear end, but shove it in an oven at 100°C and you will get some initial shrinkage, if all looks good up the temp to 180 ish and watch while it heats up. It will shrink very evenly and smoothly with kess chance of scorching which is so easy to do with the heat gun. Whole process done in about 5mis.
Class act 👍👍
thank you
An other interesting video might be on how to make a plug.
Also wondering if it might be better or easier to make plug on 3D printer.
👋👋👋
This was very useful. Thnx! How do you attach it to the model? Dont see any strips or edges for glue or small nails
Thanks for the comment, pleased you liked it. I use small servo screws, the domed headed ones with the integral washer. 😀
I have had good luck using WD 40 to remove the glue residue from the bottles.
Thanks for the suggestion, appreciated 😀
Did you every try hooking a vacuum to that pop bottle screw end while working??
No, not something that I have tried 😳
With the cost of balsa it might be cheaper to just buy a canopy 😊 All joking aside great video
Thanks for the comment, pleased you liked the video. When building from old plans, like for this 1974 Avanti, stock canopies are simply not available, or if needing to replace a canopy on an ARF. And I guess in reality if they were available they would be far mor expensive than the block of balsa.
Not after you apply the shipping charges, but yes, balsa is spendy. I have used vitamin bottles for speed rings and replacement cowls.