Another tip- If you notice your equipment (chainsaw, string trimmer, etc) seems to flood out more and more often, you probably have a carb issue. Dont wait. My leaf blower had these symptoms and then I tried to start it one day and after the 2nd pull the cylinder filled w gas and when I pulled the cord again I sheared off the key in the flywheel. The new factory OEM flywheel was made in China (isn't everything) so it was almost 6 weeks waiting on the part. Now I use only ethanol free gas in all my lawn and garden equipment. Thanks for the video. Cheers
This was a saw I bought off of Craigslist, so it had the flooding issue. I run all my equipment on ethanol free gas and use the additives listed in the description. Equipment always starts within a few pulls and runs smooth. Cheers!
Nice job! I'm working on one right now for a customer with the exact same problem, flooding and snappy diaphragm but, his was because he bought the premixed fuel in the can which I try to stay far away from, the fuel looked like it had crystallization in it when I poured it into a clean bowl for inspection. I personally don't think that it has the proper lubricants in it and I have been doing this for over 40 years, call me old fashion I guess and this is a brand new Remington Ambush leaf blower that he used 3 times. I don't have the patience to wait for a rebuild kit when most lawn mower repair places have or can get a new carb in a couple of days and most are under $25. I enjoyed your video though.
Thanks Jeff! I agree, I don't like the premixed fuel either. As for rebuilding carbs, it takes me 5 extra min over replacing one, and only costs $6 to $12 depending on if you get aftermarket or O.E. I find it therapeutic at times, but I also agree, getting a new carb and get it done is sometimes better. Enjoy!
Hello from Australia, The sad news is that Dolmar is finishing production of all chainsaws soon. I own the Makita same as one in video and a big 7901 79 cc Makita with a 24" chain bar. Dolmars will always cut faster than a Stihl or Husq. because they rev faster and pull a narrower chain. Buy up spares for your Dolmars NOW!!!! Cheers from Hunter Valley Wine Country Australia
Thank you Matt. Next time I am going to buy a few diaphragms, as that is the only thing that really goes bad with these carbs. Have a wonderful weekend.
Having the same problem with a reasonably new chainsaw - a lot of fuel flooding into the cylinder. The diaphragm isn't crispy but I'm guessing the needle valve is stuck open somehow. Thanks for giving me a starting point on how to fix this issue.
Thanks for the feedback. Use an ounce of carb cleaner that claims it cleans gum and varnish per gallon of gasoline. And always empty fuel tank and run the saw till it dies a few times before putting it away. I find that helps a lot with the needle issue.
Late reply so hopefully you already fixed the issue. Buy a simple pressure/ vacuum tester and pressurize the carb to about 10 psi via the fuel inlet fitting. There shouldn't be any pressure falling off. If it does you can place the carb in a liquid of your choice (gasoline at your own risk) and see where bubbles are coming out. If they are coming from the main jet nozzle in the throat of the carb that is usually an indication the needle valve is not sealing against the seat properly.
Hi, I do like your videos, informative, not like some of them. I have just serviced my carb’ because I thought the filter on the carb was blocked and I did seem to be flooding with fuel. I can get the chainsaw starting but not unless you put some easy start in, I can tun it fine for whatever time needed, but if you stop it it will not start again unless you give some help.!, any idea of the problem.?🤔
Hi Michael, did you rebuild the carb and it still is having a tough time starting? If yes, check your idle speed and choke setting. Other than that, fresh fuel may help. The reformulated stuff starts to go bad after a month or so.
Nice! You may want to hold on to the old carb as backup. Just buy a $3 carb kit and clean & rebuild the old one. The fuel will eventually stiffen up the diaphragm and will need replacement. It only takes 5 min to rebuild the carb. Enjoy...
Nice video! My only suggestion would be to disassemble both sides of the carb at the same time so you can blow air or carb cleaner into the through passages to flush any contaminants out. You should pull the needle valves out and do the same. Aggravating if the L or H circuit is dirty. Easy on the air pressure so as not to blow the welsh plug out of the cavity. Speaking from experience... LOL
Zama says not to blow compressed air or even pressurized carb cleaner through. They say you can damage the check valves. I'm just sharing from the video they have on there carbs. I've done everything they said not to also
@@kurtknispel9170 Good to know. Yeah, those neoprene coated check valves can be the death of the carb...they are there to prevent air from being pulled into the fuel cavity when pressing the primer bulb, as I understand it. But how then to clean out deposits in the carb body?
Hi Paul, thank you for taking the time to reach out to me and the feedback. For the idle screw, I turned it in till the throttle cracked open, the saw has a part throttle lock on startup, so when the saw started with the throttle lock, I kept turning in the idle screw till it started to increase in rpm. Then I turned the idle screw in 1.5 turns before removing the throttle lock. I then set rpm to specification using a tachometer. As for the Low and High set screws I started out at 1.5 turns out from fully seated. All fuels are different, so results will vary from there on fine tuning. I recommend getting the equipment warmed up under load before final adjustments. Always go richer/turn out till the engine rpm slows down then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn in for best performance. Hope that helps
If this had been an English job they’d make the engineer Sir Baron Lord Bridgewater with a thousand pounds a year .Who ere you are a second time to you I,ll tip my hat and wish by God I had the brains to rebuild a carb like that . Well done and thanks .
Yes, it can holding the needle open as well. But also check the needle. Sometimes there is buildup around the tip that will hold it open. Also, some needles come with rubber tip, and that may crack over time due to fuel with alcohol. Hope that helps.
where are you buying carburator kits for zama carbs? here in tennessee you cant find a rebuild kit you gotta buy the whole carb but its only 30 dollars for a brand new carburator
ZAMA C1U-K19 JD 21c weed eater air filter soaked with fuel and fuel seams to be splashing out of carb when i remove air filter and run it. any fix for this. also cant find a new air filter online to order.
Check ur spark arrestor as well.. a lil screen in the muffler. My ms311 did the same thing. But it was the screen in the muffler was plugged with carbon
Would have been good to warn about the first spring that one encounters …..first timers often come a cropper when this rolls away . Good teacher but great ? Nice vid though .
this new fuel formulation is flat out destructive to small engine carburators and fuel lines. i went to start my new weed whacker for the first time this year and the fuel lines were so brittle they just fell all to pieces.. so i tried my chainsaw and the exact same thing happened. even though, I emptied the fuel out of both pieces of equipment the fuel lines still got brittle and disintegrated... from now on its nothing but pure gasoline for all my small engines. i have never had this issue with non corn ethanol gasoline
Yes, agreed. If you can't find the non ethanol fuels be sure to run one to two Oz of a good carb cleaner like B12 in the description. And always empty out the tank and run the carb dry. If the tank is big, put a shutoff valve in the fuel line and run it dry. Hope that helps.
What do you mean " made by hand" ??????? The plastic parts are molded by a machine, The aluminum parts are cast and machined by machine. The assembly on all chain saw are done by hand So what are you talking about?????
Another tip- If you notice your equipment (chainsaw, string trimmer, etc) seems to flood out more and more often, you probably have a carb issue. Dont wait. My leaf blower had these symptoms and then I tried to start it one day and after the 2nd pull the cylinder filled w gas and when I pulled the cord again I sheared off the key in the flywheel. The new factory OEM flywheel was made in China (isn't everything) so it was almost 6 weeks waiting on the part. Now I use only ethanol free gas in all my lawn and garden equipment. Thanks for the video. Cheers
This was a saw I bought off of Craigslist, so it had the flooding issue. I run all my equipment on ethanol free gas and use the additives listed in the description. Equipment always starts within a few pulls and runs smooth. Cheers!
@@justbehandy please can you write the item number or link for kit carburetor . thanks
amzn.to/2WwWwMe
Nice and clear demo. Thanks
Thank you!
Nice job! I'm working on one right now for a customer with the exact same problem, flooding and snappy diaphragm but, his was because he bought the premixed fuel in the can which I try to stay far away from, the fuel looked like it had crystallization in it when I poured it into a clean bowl for inspection. I personally don't think that it has the proper lubricants in it and I have been doing this for over 40 years, call me old fashion I guess and this is a brand new Remington Ambush leaf blower that he used 3 times. I don't have the patience to wait for a rebuild kit when most lawn mower repair places have or can get a new carb in a couple of days and most are under $25. I enjoyed your video though.
Thanks Jeff! I agree, I don't like the premixed fuel either. As for rebuilding carbs, it takes me 5 extra min over replacing one, and only costs $6 to $12 depending on if you get aftermarket or O.E. I find it therapeutic at times, but I also agree, getting a new carb and get it done is sometimes better. Enjoy!
Hello from Australia, The sad news is that Dolmar is finishing production of all chainsaws soon. I own the Makita same as one in video and a big 7901 79 cc Makita with a 24" chain bar. Dolmars will always cut faster than a Stihl or Husq. because they rev faster and pull a narrower chain. Buy up spares for your Dolmars NOW!!!! Cheers from Hunter Valley Wine Country Australia
I am sad that Makita is not selling Dolmar, to someone who wants to keep it going but just killing it off.
Great video. I have noticed you can buy the whole new carb for a few dollars more than the rebuild kits and the carb is usually in stock.👍👍👍
Thank you Matt. Next time I am going to buy a few diaphragms, as that is the only thing that really goes bad with these carbs. Have a wonderful weekend.
Having the same problem with a reasonably new chainsaw - a lot of fuel flooding into the cylinder. The diaphragm isn't crispy but I'm guessing the needle valve is stuck open somehow. Thanks for giving me a starting point on how to fix this issue.
Thanks for the feedback. Use an ounce of carb cleaner that claims it cleans gum and varnish per gallon of gasoline. And always empty fuel tank and run the saw till it dies a few times before putting it away. I find that helps a lot with the needle issue.
Late reply so hopefully you already fixed the issue. Buy a simple pressure/ vacuum tester and pressurize the carb to about 10 psi via the fuel inlet fitting. There shouldn't be any pressure falling off. If it does you can place the carb in a liquid of your choice (gasoline at your own risk) and see where bubbles are coming out. If they are coming from the main jet nozzle in the throat of the carb that is usually an indication the needle valve is not sealing against the seat properly.
Wise and helpful video, thank you much! I want to live rest of my life in Canada, so this sort of knowledge is necessary there.
Great info. Great job explaining. Thank you!!
Thank you I appreciate you showing your knowledge and helping the people out like this may God bless your hands and work and you and your family.👍👍👍
Wow, thank you for encouragement and blessing. God Bless you and yours!
Good video, good info on Dolmar/Makita. Thanks man!
Thank You for taking the time to give me feedback, it truly means a lot to me.
When switching from rubber needle tip to steel AllWAYS pressure test it which you should do anyway 😊
Hi, I do like your videos, informative, not like some of them. I have just serviced my carb’ because I thought the filter on the carb was blocked and I did seem to be flooding with fuel.
I can get the chainsaw starting but not unless you put some easy start in, I can tun it fine for whatever time needed, but if you stop it it will not start again unless you give some help.!, any idea of the problem.?🤔
Hi Michael, did you rebuild the carb and it still is having a tough time starting? If yes, check your idle speed and choke setting. Other than that, fresh fuel may help. The reformulated stuff starts to go bad after a month or so.
Great video! Well presented and informative!
Thank you so much for taking time to give me feedback. I truly appreciate it.
I think the diaphragm is my issue. Trying this next. Thank you.
80% of the time it's the diaphragm, 20% needle stuck. Hope that helps.
How did it go? Did changing out the diaphragm fix the issue you were having?
@@justbehandy I ordered an Amazon China replacement carb. Going to install this weekend and will let you know. Fingers crossed
Man! So happy!! You saved my 10 year old srm225! Runs like new!
THANK YOU
$16 and about 15 minutes and I am not handy. Thank you Subbed
Nice! You may want to hold on to the old carb as backup. Just buy a $3 carb kit and clean & rebuild the old one. The fuel will eventually stiffen up the diaphragm and will need replacement. It only takes 5 min to rebuild the carb. Enjoy...
Nice video! My only suggestion would be to disassemble both sides of the carb at the same time so you can blow air or carb cleaner into the through passages to flush any contaminants out. You should pull the needle valves out and do the same. Aggravating if the L or H circuit is dirty. Easy on the air pressure so as not to blow the welsh plug out of the cavity. Speaking from experience... LOL
Zama says not to blow compressed air or even pressurized carb cleaner through. They say you can damage the check valves. I'm just sharing from the video they have on there carbs. I've done everything they said not to also
@@kurtknispel9170 Good to know. Yeah, those neoprene coated check valves can be the death of the carb...they are there to prevent air from being pulled into the fuel cavity when pressing the primer bulb, as I understand it. But how then to clean out deposits in the carb body?
Great idea
Thanks. That was very useful. Carb adjustments would also been helpful. 👍🏼
Thank you! There is an older comment that I put carb adjustments in. I didn't want the post to be too long.
What did you set your idle at to start off with, and what were your final screw settings, thanks great video mate
Hi Paul, thank you for taking the time to reach out to me and the feedback. For the idle screw, I turned it in till the throttle cracked open, the saw has a part throttle lock on startup, so when the saw started with the throttle lock, I kept turning in the idle screw till it started to increase in rpm. Then I turned the idle screw in 1.5 turns before removing the throttle lock. I then set rpm to specification using a tachometer. As for the Low and High set screws I started out at 1.5 turns out from fully seated. All fuels are different, so results will vary from there on fine tuning. I recommend getting the equipment warmed up under load before final adjustments. Always go richer/turn out till the engine rpm slows down then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn in for best performance. Hope that helps
@@justbehandy thanks for getting back to me really appreciate it ,been a big help
@@paullynch1938 thank you and please get the word out, could use more subscribers to keep channel going. Have a wonderful weekend.
Good job my friend
Thank for the kind words. Hope you found it useful. Have a wonderful day!
Thank You! Subscribed!
Welcome aboard, and Thank You!
If this had been an English job they’d make the engineer Sir Baron Lord Bridgewater with a thousand pounds a year .Who ere you are a second time to you I,ll tip my hat and wish by God I had the brains to rebuild a carb like that .
Well done and thanks .
Would having a bad diaphragm cause the fuel to leak out of the muffler /exhaust??
Yes, it can holding the needle open as well. But also check the needle. Sometimes there is buildup around the tip that will hold it open. Also, some needles come with rubber tip, and that may crack over time due to fuel with alcohol. Hope that helps.
What is the purpose for the hole in the middle of the brass looking center piece on the metering side?
It's a balance hole. Helps balance to atmospheric pressure.
where are you buying carburator kits for zama carbs? here in tennessee you cant find a rebuild kit you gotta buy the whole carb but its only 30 dollars for a brand new carburator
I bought an aftermarket kit that works well. link is in the description.
I ordered a brand new carburetor with fuel line, spark plug gaskets for$26.00 off Amazon
Save and rebuild the original. It will cost you less than $10.
Thank you brother
Good video.
Thank you so much for the feedback. I appreciate your taking the time to let me know it you enjoyed it.
Even with good fuel the carb will need a kit every 3/4 years
It’s the cheap way to save motor
That was a good video
Thank you so much for the feedback. It means a lot to me.
Not all carb niddle arms are set level the tools to set them are only a few bucks.
Thank you, that is correct. This one is set level. Blessings
ZAMA C1U-K19 JD 21c weed eater air filter soaked with fuel and fuel seams to be splashing out of carb when i remove air filter and run it. any fix for this. also cant find a new air filter online to order.
It would be the same issue for the carb. It is getting the filter wet and running for a bit. As for the filter, JD specific and dealer only.
I hardly ever change out the needle spring because most replacements are too stiff and will starve the engine
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Check ur spark arrestor as well.. a lil screen in the muffler. My ms311 did the same thing. But it was the screen in the muffler was plugged with carbon
It was clean. Thank you
Would have been good to warn about the first spring that one encounters …..first timers often come a cropper when this rolls away .
Good teacher but great ?
Nice vid though .
this new fuel formulation is flat out destructive to small engine carburators and fuel lines. i went to start my new weed whacker for the first time this year and the fuel lines were so brittle they just fell all to pieces.. so i tried my chainsaw and the exact same thing happened. even though, I emptied the fuel out of both pieces of equipment the fuel lines still got brittle and disintegrated... from now on its nothing but pure gasoline for all my small engines. i have never had this issue with non corn ethanol gasoline
Yes, agreed. If you can't find the non ethanol fuels be sure to run one to two Oz of a good carb cleaner like B12 in the description. And always empty out the tank and run the carb dry. If the tank is big, put a shutoff valve in the fuel line and run it dry. Hope that helps.
🎉
reformulated?
Gasoline containing 10% Ethanol is referred to as reformulated gasoline. Hope that helps.
Why you complete open the lock screw??????
Hello Ghulam, please verify what you mean by lock screw. Are you asking about the screw that holds the needle down?
What do you mean " made by hand" ???????
The plastic parts are molded by a machine,
The aluminum parts are cast and machined by machine.
The assembly on all chain saw are done by hand
So what are you talking about?????
assembled/made by hand. and followed through from beginning of assembly through test by the same person.