GE Top Load Washer Clutch Assembly Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 25 сен 2012
- This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the clutch assembly on a GE top-loading washing machine. The most common reasons for replacing the clutch assembly are when the washer won’t spin, isn’t spinning properly, or won’t agitate.
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All of the information for this clutch assembly replacement video is applicable to the following brands:
GE, Hotpoint, RCA, Americana
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I love how all these DIY videos are all done on clean new machines where everything comes off easy. Not anything like the real disassembly.
It is definitely an involved repair, but if you are up for it this repair can save you a lot of money.
Overall excellent & detailed video! Really great job of keeping the pace brisk while not losing the viewer. However, it skips one critical detail: change the seal; a new one comes packaged with the mode shifter anyway. This is very important because water (hot, soapy, grease-dissolving water) leaking down the shifter's shaft from the tub seal are what often kills mode shifters and tub bearings to begin with.
Thanks! I'm glad we could help you out.
Thanks for the video. Saved me a few hours of head scratching trying to figure out how to get it all apart. Had to use an air chisel to get the drum nut off. 10 year old GE. Replaced the entire clutch assy
Nice video, took 3 hours taking my time. Beware your old washer will be corroded. I used an electric impact wrench and 1-11/16" socket to remove the tub nut with ease. My old tub seal was leaking, rotten and rusted and expanded causing the bearings in mode shifter to go bad. However the seals that i ordered separately and one that came with kit cause the tub to LEAK down the shaft after replacement. My new seal from repair clinic is torn in 2 spots in it even though its new.... Chicom part no doubt. Im not happy.
Just did this job on my old GE washer. It took me about 3.5 hours start to finish. Count on a lot of cleanup work, you're going to find a lot of fabric softener residue and hard water deposits. But a new clutch, belt, tub bushing, tub seal and a lot of cleanup later, my washer is working like new again.
This video is excellent
In my case, my machine is 7 years old, the seal slot located in the outer drum has already expended. Even with a new seal tub, it will still causes water leakage. To ensure a correct seal tub from any leakage, you have to make sure the new seal tub is sitting correctly and NOT rotating as the rod spin. To do this, I simply use a white Teflon Tape and wrap around the outer seal’s ring until the diameter thicken. With this method, your new seal tub will fit tightly. To ensure it is installed correctly, spin the rod manually to make sure the new seal tub will NOT spin along with the rod before putting the machine back together for a test run. Good Luck!
+RaRa Roxy Replace the tub seal to stop the leak. It is not worth taking it all apart again without replacing the seal. Since the clutch is new, just monitor it for a few weeks and see what happens. The noises may stop and the agitation may be normal. The old clutch may have been slipping. The leaking water may also be causing some of the issues.
Super video thanks, very explainable , thx. thx. thx.
I replaced the tub seal and bearing but my washer still screeches and leaks down the drive shaft. It also makes a very loud noise during the spin cycle. Could the clutch assembly be my problem?
Putting back the transmission. the transmission turns like it's in natural ? I have had a hard time, tightening the nut for the big pulley, But the pulley still rocks around or moves around like something is missing. Does it not, tighten down because of the clutch on purpose. Is the big pulling designed to move even after the pulley is tightened down ?
I'm a big fan of RepairClinic. They're my go-to appliance site for parts and info. But in my experience,
I have a GE WPRE6150K2WT top load washer. My tub is leaking, but the leak seems to be coming down the inside of the drive shaft/clutch assembly instead of the outside (outside of shaft is dry, but heavy leak on bottom of shaft/clutch assembly), do I have a bad shaft (maybe a bearing letting water leak past inside the shaft) or is it more likely the tub seal?
Estimado amigo cual era el fallo de la lavadora que cambio todo el conjunto de embrague.
My GE makes a clicking sound on heavy loads. I don't think it is the known apron issue or that it is rubbing the bottom. It seems to be coming from this clutch area where the agitator gear engages and disengages. Guess the question is what are the symptom repair clinic for needing to replace this part in the first place?
I had a error code of 4 blinks, I replaced the transmission, still have the same error code?? Any suggestions?
My GE washer agitates and drains fine but doesn't spin so I checked the belt and capacitor and they looked fine. So found out clutch would be problem but while replacing it I found clutch doesn't have a clip and I tried pushing clutch down to remove it but didn't work. How can I remove the clutch please help?
You should also be wearing gloves when you work on this washer and I’m surprised this guy isn’t there are so many sharp edges it’s amazing