Its amazing how these people claim to tell you how to do the job but do a poor job showing it, case and point -these radiators all come with an additional "water outlet" that is for C4 with LS motors "only" heater core which doesnt apply here. Look at time 9:15 and 10:33 and you will see just under top transmission line a bolt that is inserted in the water outlet, but these radiators come this way ie to hook up a hose to this outlet but he has it plugged/capped. Helloooooooo. I just hate when people think they are telling you how to do something but fail to do a proper job. Furthermore you are advertising a company for this radiator, folks all these radiators are made by ONE company and they are resold by retail place so dont fall for his gimmick "ooh this bla bla company and their radiators are the best". Shop around for best price as they are all made by one company.
Uhh, what about those of us that would like to keep the condenser in place and connected when replacing the radiator? Does the condenser need to be removed in order to remove the radiator?? I would like to avoid having AC system evacuated if possible as I'm sure others would too.
Does the C4 with the Upright (not tilted Radiator) that has the fill port on the radiator need to be bled? or just let it run until the thermostat opens and self bleeds? I am about to do one of these installs in my new to me 1989 c4 56K miles already ordered the radiator it is on back order.
Do you know the size, and length of the hydraulic hose that you had made as well as the fitting size? Changing me Rad my lower fitting broke so I would also like to upgrade the hose.
I used stop leak for my heater core... It clogged my radiator instead. Is there anything else i should know about this type of scenario? Thank you for video
Stop leak is a temp fix. Replace the thing because it's just a matter a time before you spring a leak elsewhere. I've been stranded by a busted radiator and it's no fun watching your car bleed out on the road. Not to mention the potential for overheating and damaging your engine.
It's been a long time and I will finally do a reveal in the next week. The car was recently sold to a buyer in Australia so before she goes I'm shooting the goodbye vid.
Hey gas and gears please reply to this I have a 1985 corvette too but mine has been sitting for atleast 4 years what do you think I can do to get it started I know that the engines all good and everything. I know I have to drain out the oil, oil filter and gas but what else do you think I need to get it started? Please reply.
JK. You've got the fundamentals right. I would first lube up the cylinder heads with a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the cylinders (remove spark plugs) and let it sit there for a couple of days to make sure it's well lubricated. Then manually turn the engine over a few times and listen for compression and to make sure everything is turning smoothly. The injectors may have gunked up by now so you're going to have to clean out the fuel lines as well and check the injectors by doing a FP gauge. You'll also have to inspect the fuel pump and FP sock and make sure that's not gunked up either. Basically, make sure the system is clean because the last thing you want is old gas running into the injectors and system.
I have a '94 with about 47k miles on it. Bought last year, but when I was test driving unfortunately I didn't really look under the hood to check everything out. Well this summer, I noticed some coolant leaking when I was coming back to my car when out one night at best buy. So I went through my guage settings on the dash and brought up the temp and it was running hot. When driving it stays around 180, but as soon as Im sitting still the temperature rises quickly. Ive replaced the 2 fan relays, thermostat, temperature switch, checked the fuses,and replaced coolant. What I noticed is that neither of the cooling fans turn on. I remember the drivers side one working the night I test drove it but don't recall the passenger side fan at all. Mayhaps the passenger side didn't work and the driver side fan got overworked and burnt up the motor? any ideas? Id hate to continue throwing money at it and getting nowhere. I didn't renew my registration or get the car inspected bc of it having issues. So decided to garage it till it was fixed, but Ive become stumped. Id hate to spend 200 dollars to get new fan motors and still not have them work. Any suggestions to what it could be if not fan motors? worst case scenario for me is new radiator and new fans. Thatll set me back about 500 and a learning experience on how to get to all of it =P Fluid also appears to be cycling fine through the system, so the pump seems to be working fine. Not getting any sort of indicators on dash for anything wrong, looked over all the connections and didn't see anything disconnected, melted, broke or ripped.
nick k Sorry for the delay. I've been SWAMPED. Hoping you fixed it and if not, maybe this helps someone reading this. Believe it or not I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a wire along the fusible link that was shorting and it ran from the fan motor to the battery. Your best bet is to first start with checking the electrical wiring, power source / fuses, etc. You can always ground the motor to make sure they're working. There is also the issue of A/C pressure switches but again...
+nick k If you haven't found the problem you can check the collect fan switch this switch is usually located on the passenger side head. check by disconnecting the wire that runs to the switch and manually ground the wire. if the fan turns on then the coolant fan switch is faulty. (ignition switch should be open otherwise the relay isn't live)
Thanks. I havnt used my car. I let the registration run out last year and put it in storage till I had time to look at it. Got swapping some fuses around and got fan 1 to turn on. So its no longer overheating or pissing fluids. Just trying to get it payed off so I can sell it and buy a house. Im driving a '15 challenger sxt plus now
Neal Perry So those lines I had custom made at a hydraulic shop nearby. I ripped out the original ones and then opted for a high temp / sleeved flexible lines so that I could easily run them to the tranny. Aside from being old, it was way too complicated to pull out carefully without having the car on a lift and with enough clearance in height. Best of luck
+Mike .Van Everbeek I had a hydraulic shop custom make these for me to the exact length I wanted made out of high-temp / high-pressure resistant composite rubber. Then I re-routed the lines along the frame of the car than than underneath and around the oil pan. Ran me about $150 for both lines.
Easy. I ripped them out since it was practically impossible to remove without bending the lines. Then I had hi-temp flexible hydraulic ones made at a local shop specializing in this. Took the old fittings to them and they did the rest.
I've got a 95 'Vette and want to do this swap. How much cooler does the car run with this radiator? Is the quality of the build look solid? Thanks Check my channel to see what i've done with mine.
Sorry for the late replay but hopefully this will help someone else. Finally got back around to this. The car ran significantly cooler in addition I change the thermostat as well to open up more.
another wrong advice by telling you to change ie lower the temperature from factory 195, but the author doesnt know that the computer wants/demands to see a 195 deg temperature in order to adjust the engine performance to a tee, by lowering the temp of thermostat to 185 or what ever you are asking for trouble, plus if you install a new aluminum radiator you dont need to lower the thermostat rating from factory value of 195 deg. Why would you? Wouldnt it be easier to just install a lower thermostat and why bother spending money on a new radiator .Apply Logic folks think logically. But you can install a new 195 thermostat if you are installing a new radiator, common sense, and hoses too. Also make sure you use DISTILLED water in all of your radiator.
Its amazing how these people claim to tell you how to do the job but do a poor job showing it, case and point -these radiators all come with an additional "water outlet" that is for C4 with LS motors "only" heater core which doesnt apply here. Look at time 9:15 and 10:33 and you will see just under top transmission line a bolt that is inserted in the water outlet, but these radiators come this way ie to hook up a hose to this outlet but he has it plugged/capped. Helloooooooo. I just hate when people think they are telling you how to do something but fail to do a proper job. Furthermore you are advertising a company for this radiator, folks all these radiators are made by ONE company and they are resold by retail place so dont fall for his gimmick "ooh this bla bla company and their radiators are the best". Shop around for best price as they are all made by one company.
I'm so excited to change mine I need a day. Doing all coolants hoses
Uhh, what about those of us that would like to keep the condenser in place and connected when replacing the radiator? Does the condenser need to be removed in order to remove the radiator?? I would like to avoid having AC system evacuated if possible as I'm sure others would too.
Does the C4 with the Upright (not tilted Radiator) that has the fill port on the radiator need to be bled? or just let it run until the thermostat opens and self bleeds? I am about to do one of these installs in my new to me 1989 c4 56K miles already ordered the radiator it is on back order.
Would it be better to get a single or dual core radiator for a stock c4 Corvette?
Do you know the size, and length of the hydraulic hose that you had made as well as the fitting size? Changing me Rad my lower fitting broke so I would also like to upgrade the hose.
I used stop leak for my heater core... It clogged my radiator instead. Is there anything else i should know about this type of scenario? Thank you for video
Stop leak is a temp fix. Replace the thing because it's just a matter a time before you spring a leak elsewhere. I've been stranded by a busted radiator and it's no fun watching your car bleed out on the road. Not to mention the potential for overheating and damaging your engine.
Do you have any videos of the car running with the new cooling system
It's been a long time and I will finally do a reveal in the next week. The car was recently sold to a buyer in Australia so before she goes I'm shooting the goodbye vid.
Hey gas and gears please reply to this I have a 1985 corvette too but mine has been sitting for atleast 4 years what do you think I can do to get it started I know that the engines all good and everything. I know I have to drain out the oil, oil filter and gas but what else do you think I need to get it started? Please reply.
JK. You've got the fundamentals right. I would first lube up the cylinder heads with a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the cylinders (remove spark plugs) and let it sit there for a couple of days to make sure it's well lubricated. Then manually turn the engine over a few times and listen for compression and to make sure everything is turning smoothly. The injectors may have gunked up by now so you're going to have to clean out the fuel lines as well and check the injectors by doing a FP gauge. You'll also have to inspect the fuel pump and FP sock and make sure that's not gunked up either. Basically, make sure the system is clean because the last thing you want is old gas running into the injectors and system.
Nothing about draining the old coolant out of the radiator?
Remove knock sensors as well to ensure a more complete flush
DO YOU THINK THIS WILL WORK FOR THE 1990 VETTE L98? EVERYTHING LOOKS THE SAME...IF SO I WILL BE ORDERING ONE FOR SURE.
Not sure. Check the specs because I know there are small changes on the cooling lines to other components.
I have a '94 with about 47k miles on it. Bought last year, but when I was test driving unfortunately I didn't really look under the hood to check everything out. Well this summer, I noticed some coolant leaking when I was coming back to my car when out one night at best buy. So I went through my guage settings on the dash and brought up the temp and it was running hot. When driving it stays around 180, but as soon as Im sitting still the temperature rises quickly. Ive replaced the 2 fan relays, thermostat, temperature switch, checked the fuses,and replaced coolant. What I noticed is that neither of the cooling fans turn on. I remember the drivers side one working the night I test drove it but don't recall the passenger side fan at all. Mayhaps the passenger side didn't work and the driver side fan got overworked and burnt up the motor? any ideas? Id hate to continue throwing money at it and getting nowhere. I didn't renew my registration or get the car inspected bc of it having issues. So decided to garage it till it was fixed, but Ive become stumped. Id hate to spend 200 dollars to get new fan motors and still not have them work. Any suggestions to what it could be if not fan motors? worst case scenario for me is new radiator and new fans. Thatll set me back about 500 and a learning experience on how to get to all of it =P
Fluid also appears to be cycling fine through the system, so the pump seems to be working fine. Not getting any sort of indicators on dash for anything wrong, looked over all the connections and didn't see anything disconnected, melted, broke or ripped.
nick k Sorry for the delay. I've been SWAMPED. Hoping you fixed it and if not, maybe this helps someone reading this. Believe it or not I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a wire along the fusible link that was shorting and it ran from the fan motor to the battery. Your best bet is to first start with checking the electrical wiring, power source / fuses, etc. You can always ground the motor to make sure they're working. There is also the issue of A/C pressure switches but again...
+nick k
If you haven't found the problem
you can check the collect fan switch
this switch is usually located on the passenger side head. check by disconnecting the wire that runs to the switch and manually ground the wire. if the fan turns on then the coolant fan switch is faulty. (ignition switch should be open otherwise the relay isn't live)
Thanks. I havnt used my car. I let the registration run out last year and put it in storage till I had time to look at it. Got swapping some fuses around and got fan 1 to turn on. So its no longer overheating or pissing fluids. Just trying to get it payed off so I can sell it and buy a house. Im driving a '15 challenger sxt plus now
amazing man keep it up!!!!!!
There are bottom slot Howes What water utility and how to shut down by
What do I need to know about the lines that you had made so I can get some made as well?
Neal Perry So those lines I had custom made at a hydraulic shop nearby. I ripped out the original ones and then opted for a high temp / sleeved flexible lines so that I could easily run them to the tranny. Aside from being old, it was way too complicated to pull out carefully without having the car on a lift and with enough clearance in height. Best of luck
C4 corvettes don't have a cap on the radiator nor does aluminum rust.
The L98 TPI motors do, the cooling system changed with the LT1 motors where filling is handled at the reservoir/overflow tank.
What size bolt did you use to plug the hole on the radiator?
Radiator already came with that.
What happened to the c4 I need help with mine can you help
Will this work for a 91 corvette?
Not sure, check the specs because they may look the same but later model years included additional temp sensors.
I have the same setup and problems. The bottom line bent..
Same problem today, bottom line is PITA. How did you the fix?
+Mike .Van Everbeek I had a hydraulic shop custom make these for me to the exact length I wanted made out of high-temp / high-pressure resistant composite rubber. Then I re-routed the lines along the frame of the car than than underneath and around the oil pan. Ran me about $150 for both lines.
Easy. I ripped them out since it was practically impossible to remove without bending the lines. Then I had hi-temp flexible hydraulic ones made at a local shop specializing in this. Took the old fittings to them and they did the rest.
Is this a joke???
I've got a 95 'Vette and want to do this swap. How much cooler does the car run with this radiator? Is the quality of the build look solid?
Thanks
Check my channel to see what i've done with mine.
Sorry for the late replay but hopefully this will help someone else. Finally got back around to this. The car ran significantly cooler in addition I change the thermostat as well to open up more.
another wrong advice by telling you to change ie lower the temperature from factory 195, but the author doesnt know that the computer wants/demands to see a 195 deg temperature in order to adjust the engine performance to a tee, by lowering the temp of thermostat to 185 or what ever you are asking for trouble, plus if you install a new aluminum radiator you dont need to lower the thermostat rating from factory value of 195 deg. Why would you? Wouldnt it be easier to just install a lower thermostat and why bother spending money on a new radiator .Apply Logic folks think logically. But you can install a new 195 thermostat if you are installing a new radiator, common sense, and hoses too. Also make sure you use DISTILLED water in all of your radiator.
John Brown that is a c4 ,wtf?
would you mean calling me about this radiator company...i have a C5 corvette
Toooo much yapping. Not enough tech and useful information.
that's no c4 in this video
Really? Well that can be your little secret