This is extremely helpful. I have a Marklin Z 0-6-0 locomotive that runs well; however, it is time after nearly 10 years to disassemble it, clean, and relubricate. This tutorial has really helped me overcome my anxiety of disassembling this locomotive for the very first time. Now that I have a basic idea of the order in which to disassemble, how many tiny parts for which to account during the process, and the reverse order in which to reassemble upon cleaning completion, I feel much more confident to try this myself. My 0-6-0 is a slightly different animal; however, I think the basics you have shown in this video are an excellent guide! Thank you for the visual help!
Pretty good overview, especially with lining up the connecting rods. Helped me to get started with the 5 pole motor upgrade. I was afraid of taking this apart because of how small it is and my hands aren't as steady as they used to be but the job went very well.
Reminded me of taking apart a small digital camera and putting it back together. Need to take special care not to drop micro parts onto the floor, and to memorize sequence of disassembly and reassembly. A jeweler's apron with large front pocket to catch tiny parts, good lighting and magnifying glasses could help.
Dear: I'm been working to sincronice my loco for a 2 weeks! Now I think a can do it! Thanks a lot, but that video have no audio or is problem in my pc? Thanks again and hope to give you good news very soon, thanks again
I can't get the sound to work. That sucks cause I took it apart and the motor works, but when I put the gears back in the loco will not go. But if i just put power to the positive and negative the motor runs. Something about the way I put the gears in or the wheels are not lined up right. Very frustrating.
Chad: For proper gearing, the image at 2:47 is key and also the entire actions from 4:10 onward. I followed this great video and was able to get my 0-6-0's to fly ... the gearing is automatic. If there's binding, try it again. Watch 4:10 and later real closely. BTW, there is no sound in this video... not really needed.
What do you use for cleaning at 1:57 (ruclips.net/video/-p3OV_tMN2g/видео.html)? An ultrasonic cleaner? Any special additives that ought to be added to the water in it?
yes, but what about the motor, if I want to put in a new motor, is it possible to remove it? It seems that the drive screw can't be removed from the drive shaft.
Hello. I have never replaced a motor, but the proceedure is described on the "Do it Yourself in Z-scale" web site where they talk about replacing a 3-pole with a 5-pole motor.
Thank you, yes they explain it and it says "pull out the old motor". I tried that but it is stuck very strongly on the drive shaft. Anyway may be I'll have to try again.
The photos and descriptions show them using a gear puller to separate the armature from the worm gear. Check out "Retrofitting a Little Steam Locomotive" down the page.
Can someone please help me with procedure for lining up the gears? I am trying to follow what he is doing in the video, but I just cant seem to get them in without them binding up. I put it together and taken it apart 20 times already and I am sure Its not good for me to keep cooking the motor every time it binds up. HELP! What am I missing? Thanks
The key to your problem may be in lining up the connecting rod rivets. This is done at 4:09 in the video. The rivets need to end up in the same position on both wheels. The connecting rod needs to slide freely back and forth about 1mm. Therefore the rivet should be the same relative distance from each end of the connecting rod. The trick is to be aware that when you insert the final gear (see 4:13) you will be rotating the wheel in order to fit the gear into it. Thus the connecting rod has to be positioned so that when the wheel is rotated to accommodate the gear, the rod “ends up” at the correct position. To illustrate this, see at 4:13, there is a gap on each end of the rod where the rivet is connected. Note how at 4:22 after the gear is inserted, the gaps are now where they belong, on the same side of the rivets, no longer on opposite sides. At 4:38 you see how the rod is free to move in that final position
Thanks, I finally got it...after 50 tries. The key, and what not shown in the video, is to lift of the gear next to it and let them drop in together. I had to put it in a vise and use two sets of tweezers.
15 Jahre alt - trotzdem danke! Meine Lok läuft nach über 40 Jahren wieder flüssig!
This is extremely helpful. I have a Marklin Z 0-6-0 locomotive that runs well; however, it is time after nearly 10 years to disassemble it, clean, and relubricate. This tutorial has really helped me overcome my anxiety of disassembling this locomotive for the very first time. Now that I have a basic idea of the order in which to disassemble, how many tiny parts for which to account during the process, and the reverse order in which to reassemble upon cleaning completion, I feel much more confident to try this myself. My 0-6-0 is a slightly different animal; however, I think the basics you have shown in this video are an excellent guide! Thank you for the visual help!
Thank you.
This video is not only beautiful and impressive but also very helpful!!!
Thank you for sharing!!
David
Thank you.
Pretty good overview, especially with lining up the connecting rods. Helped me to get started with the 5 pole motor upgrade. I was afraid of taking this apart because of how small it is and my hands aren't as steady as they used to be but the job went very well.
Thanks!
Excellent video
Thank you. Looks like the resolution gets worse over the years.
I've just uploaded a better quality version of this video at ruclips.net/video/5x4MK961GQY/видео.html
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! I was able to learn from this and get a old train that running again!
Glad it helped. Thanks.
Reminded me of taking apart a small digital camera and putting it back together. Need to take special care not to drop micro parts onto the floor, and to memorize sequence of disassembly and reassembly. A jeweler's apron with large front pocket to catch tiny parts, good lighting and magnifying glasses could help.
Many thanks for this video , it was very useful for me.
My pleasure
Fantastic video !!!! thanks from brasil !!!
Thank you!!!
Great video! Thank you.
Thanks!
Oh, you just poke buttons on the end, just like a real locomotive! ;)
Very nice. Thanks. I'll bet that wasn't the first time you had the little fellow apart...
Not the last time either 😆
I have only HO scale. But the person who owns these fingers and hands in the video, very steady indeed.
14 years ago, yes. lol
thanx a lot, very helpfull
Thank you, I'm happy it was useful.
nice to help on desablemble trains
thank you
Considering that you filmed this in 2007, I'd say that you did nice camera work.
Thank you.
Great video! Thank you! How did you clean the tiny parts?
Usually with 70% isopropyl alcohol with a Q-Tip or sometimes in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Dear: I'm been working to sincronice my loco for a 2 weeks! Now I think a can do it! Thanks a lot, but that video have no audio or is problem in my pc? Thanks again and hope to give you good news very soon, thanks again
Thank you. Yes, the video has no audio.
bien
Excelent!!!!!!
😊
I can't get the sound to work. That sucks cause I took it apart and the motor works, but when I put the gears back in the loco will not go. But if i just put power to the positive and negative the motor runs. Something about the way I put the gears in or the wheels are not lined up right. Very frustrating.
Chad: For proper gearing, the image at 2:47 is key and also the entire actions from 4:10 onward. I followed this great video and was able to get my 0-6-0's to fly ... the gearing is automatic. If there's binding, try it again. Watch 4:10 and later real closely.
BTW, there is no sound in this video... not really needed.
What do you use for cleaning at 1:57 (ruclips.net/video/-p3OV_tMN2g/видео.html)? An ultrasonic cleaner? Any special additives that ought to be added to the water in it?
I use an ultrasonic cleaner with 70% isopropyl alchohol.
yes, but what about the motor, if I want to put in a new motor, is it possible to remove it? It seems that the drive screw can't be removed from the drive shaft.
Hello. I have never replaced a motor, but the proceedure is described on the "Do it Yourself in Z-scale" web site where they talk about replacing a 3-pole with a 5-pole motor.
Thank you, yes they explain it and it says "pull out the old motor". I tried that but it is stuck very strongly on the drive shaft. Anyway may be I'll have to try again.
The photos and descriptions show them using a gear puller to separate the armature from the worm gear. Check out "Retrofitting a Little Steam Locomotive" down the page.
Thank you, right this is a little difficult. My engine still works although it is approx 15 years old. So maybe the engine never breaks :-)
Can someone please help me with procedure for lining up the gears? I am trying to follow what he is doing in the video, but I just cant seem to get them in without them binding up. I put it together and taken it apart 20 times already and I am sure Its not good for me to keep cooking the motor every time it binds up. HELP! What am I missing? Thanks
The key to your problem may be in lining up the connecting rod rivets. This is done at 4:09 in the video. The rivets need to end up in the same position on both wheels. The connecting rod needs to slide freely back and forth about 1mm. Therefore the rivet should be the same relative distance from each end of the connecting rod.
The trick is to be aware that when you insert the final gear (see 4:13) you will be rotating the wheel in order to fit the gear into it. Thus the connecting rod has to be positioned so that when the wheel is rotated to accommodate the gear, the rod “ends up” at the correct position.
To illustrate this, see at 4:13, there is a gap on each end of the rod where the rivet is connected. Note how at 4:22 after the gear is inserted, the gaps are now where they belong, on the same side of the rivets, no longer on opposite sides. At 4:38 you see how the rod is free to move in that final position
Thanks, I finally got it...after 50 tries. The key, and what not shown in the video, is to lift of the gear next to it and let them drop in together. I had to put it in a vise and use two sets of tweezers.
@@1215belfield THANKS. been strugling for hours. Will go again tomorrow..
1:30 6:04 What is that flat round thing, is it a capacitor?
Yes it is.
How did you do this without the couplers flying away?
Sometimes a tiny drop of oil will help the coupler stay in place.
8 months later but stil: I dismantel them with a tweezer. First take the spring, then the coupler. That way they won't jump.
Att ta isär ett lok är inte svårt, det är värre att sätta ihop det igen.
😄