Wish you would have shown the removal with some more detail as far as the screws and what not. Im trying to get the cover off for dampers but the brass looking cross bar blocks it so I need to get my head out. Had to plug it all back up and leave it for another day since I was unsure of what to do even using the vague manual. Attacking it again soon with a better screw driver.
Appreciate the feedback and wish I had the time to be a more organized youtuber and make my living off youtube. Unfortunately when making these videos I am doing my own repairs and trying to help at the same time.
@@reprint217 you were still helpful, just it’s overwhelming when it’s your first time so everything’s pretty confusing. I get that it’s not a full complete guide but I got the head out and replaced my dampers but it has some air in the lines so I don’t know if that will do it for me yet. Been out of service for a month now. STS wouldn’t help me since they lock down their service manuals in an attempt to stop DIY repairs. I was able to reference a 628 manual but I hate this printer. 1 year old and it’s done I think. I will forever preach about never buying anything from sts.
let me know if you still need help with this. its not hard to get to the dampers but there is a nice amount of disassembly that needs to be done. and yes you will need to take the entire print head out especially if its your first time changing the dampers
So I've changed the ffc head cables& installed new print head but code E075 keeps popping up ..also the f2 fuse on the mainboard keeps popping. I'm not sure what's the problem I know the f2 fuse fires the print head
@@1sickhemi_92hemi_movement2 the printhead has a small straight band spring that holds the printer parallel. take that out of the slot (1 screw) and then remove the 4 screws that hold the small metal carriage to the main large carriage. you dont have to remove the 4 screws that attach the printhead to the small metal carriage until AFTER you pull the printhead out. also, can you tell me where that fuse is that youre speaking about?? is it on the board above the print head, or on the board on the opposite side above slots 5, 6, 7, and 8??
Hi Mike! Been binging your videos as I work on repairing my SP-540V. In a previous video I saw that you had tons of used DX4 printheads. My SP-540V had been sitting unplugged for 6 years, dried ink in the lines, shot printheads everything, and I was able to get two colors firing with minimal deflection using a method I saw on the signs101 forums. Basically submerging the printheads in an 1/8th of an inch of cleaning solution, connecting both nipples on the manifold with ink tubing to create one tube to pull from (equalizes pressure between the channels), and drawing cleaning solution slowly up through the printhead with a syringe. Now that magenta and cyan have been unclogged, the cleaning solution wants to take the path of least resistance and thus yellow and black are still clogged. How do I combat this issue?? I hate to draw from one channel at a time putting unnecessary pressure on the membranes. But it sounds like this may be what I end up having to do.
What I do is take ink tubing (actually have video on it) I melt one end and put on the manifold nipple that is NOT CLOGGED. That will allow full focus on the clogged channel. It works, just requires patience and rinse and repeat
@@reprint217 is this printer a VJ 628D?? if you are scrapping it Im interested in buying it from you for parts. Please let me know if you still have it. i do need it to be a 628D tho.
Wish you would have shown the removal with some more detail as far as the screws and what not. Im trying to get the cover off for dampers but the brass looking cross bar blocks it so I need to get my head out. Had to plug it all back up and leave it for another day since I was unsure of what to do even using the vague manual. Attacking it again soon with a better screw driver.
Appreciate the feedback and wish I had the time to be a more organized youtuber and make my living off youtube. Unfortunately when making these videos I am doing my own repairs and trying to help at the same time.
@@reprint217 you were still helpful, just it’s overwhelming when it’s your first time so everything’s pretty confusing. I get that it’s not a full complete guide but I got the head out and replaced my dampers but it has some air in the lines so I don’t know if that will do it for me yet. Been out of service for a month now.
STS wouldn’t help me since they lock down their service manuals in an attempt to stop DIY repairs. I was able to reference a 628 manual but I hate this printer. 1 year old and it’s done I think. I will forever preach about never buying anything from sts.
let me know if you still need help with this. its not hard to get to the dampers but there is a nice amount of disassembly that needs to be done. and yes you will need to take the entire print head out especially if its your first time changing the dampers
Hi, can do a video on how to replace the print head on a mimaki cjv 150 75
How did you remove the bolts around the print head ?
Sometimes it's easier to remove printhead bracket that are screws. I wouldn't remove any bolts
So I've changed the ffc head cables& installed new print head but code E075 keeps popping up ..also the f2 fuse on the mainboard keeps popping. I'm not sure what's the problem
I know the f2 fuse fires the print head
@@1sickhemi_92hemi_movement2 the printhead has a small straight band spring that holds the printer parallel. take that out of the slot (1 screw) and then remove the 4 screws that hold the small metal carriage to the main large carriage. you dont have to remove the 4 screws that attach the printhead to the small metal carriage until AFTER you pull the printhead out. also, can you tell me where that fuse is that youre speaking about?? is it on the board above the print head, or on the board on the opposite side above slots 5, 6, 7, and 8??
Hi Mike! Been binging your videos as I work on repairing my SP-540V.
In a previous video I saw that you had tons of used DX4 printheads. My SP-540V had been sitting unplugged for 6 years, dried ink in the lines, shot printheads everything, and I was able to get two colors firing with minimal deflection using a method I saw on the signs101 forums. Basically submerging the printheads in an 1/8th of an inch of cleaning solution, connecting both nipples on the manifold with ink tubing to create one tube to pull from (equalizes pressure between the channels), and drawing cleaning solution slowly up through the printhead with a syringe.
Now that magenta and cyan have been unclogged, the cleaning solution wants to take the path of least resistance and thus yellow and black are still clogged.
How do I combat this issue?? I hate to draw from one channel at a time putting unnecessary pressure on the membranes. But it sounds like this may be what I end up having to do.
What I do is take ink tubing (actually have video on it) I melt one end and put on the manifold nipple that is NOT CLOGGED. That will allow full focus on the clogged channel. It works, just requires patience and rinse and repeat
@@reprint217 is this printer a VJ 628D?? if you are scrapping it Im interested in buying it from you for parts. Please let me know if you still have it. i do need it to be a 628D tho.
Well done
How do you remove the handle on the side ?
It just pops off
Mike i joined the facebook group but I didn’t accepted yet .is the group exist yet or what ?
One man junk is another man treasure.
I agree