Great videos Stu. Im a retired plumber from new Zealand and have spent hours watching your work. Brings back memories. A schrinking trade here now. Keep it up.
I'm putting cover flashings over soakers onto a parapet wall tomorrow before coping stones are bedded on top. I'm just a roofer but your work inspires me to improve my leadwork
Hi Stuart, awesome work mate, I wrote a comment with a link to an item for you but looks like I can’t send links via RUclips 🤦♂️ so I’ll write it again 😂 I previously said that I see you cut your lead with either lead snips or a stanly knife, from one lead guy to another, we use a Mikita lead nibbler (I did send a link 1st time but obviously not allowed) it’s a battery powered nibbler and makes very light work even cutting code 8 lead, it also gives you the perfect welding rod as well 😁 I would highly recommend one, they pay for themselves in no time at all, they are a game changer 100% But without sending a link or picture it’s hard to show you the exact one 😢 there around the £270-£300 mark (gone up in price since I brought mine) but like I said, highly recommend bud 👍👍
Great work! These videos where you just let the camera roll are spot on, much better continuity this way as opposed to camera on, camera off, BAM, complete work appears. Lovely craftsmanship all the same! Do you always lead cover coping stones?
Thank you I’m trying to leave the camera roll more and more. But also I’m trying to be mindful of how long the videos are and trying it to make them too long. We don’t always cover coping stones. But lately it seems to be all I’m doing.
So are you just using 25 mm copper ring shanked nails banged into your plugs or something more substantial? I’ve had situations where a timber (ply) substrate on vertical cladding is too bouncy (insufficient timber studs) so left with no choice but to screw the copper clips. Piloting first and then using nails was an option but found the nails to lose their hold. You can imagine the result, the screw heads starting to show through the lead as the welts are set in. What would you do? Insist the chippy beef it up a bit to give it the strength needed? (If only…) And, is it imperative to use tar paper at all times regardless of whether the lead sheet is on the flat or vertical and irrelevant of what the substrate is. Is it solely to give the lead longevity (reduce moisture on the back/ underside of the lead.? Does it really make that much difference? And finally, how come sometimes you have lead clips on the drip/bottom edge and other times not. So when capping is overlapping lower levels of lead then there are lead clips but no clips on this capping. I hope that all makes sense. And as always, a great job. Impeccable standards and a real pleasure to watch you work not to mention an education too. Hopefully not too many questions for you.
Yes I’m just using 25mm copper ring shanked nails hammered into a red plug. Plus a piece of copper to make the nail head bigger. These are fantastic fixings and you don’t see the head when you dress the welts in when using screws. If you are using screws you can bend the copper over the screw heads and then you won’t see them. Yes you should always use grade a building paper when laying lead flat or vertical. The only time you don’t need too is for flashings. The paper protects the underside of the lead from alkalis in the stone and concrete. It also reduces corrosive attack when laying lead onto plywood and oak. It doesn’t matter too much if you cut drip bottom edge of use have a turned drip bottom edge. The turned edge is just better in high exposure. To prevent wind lift. Also thanks for watching.
@@slbleadworks thanks for replying. My goodness, what a simple solution. Kicking myself for not even coming up with that myself, bending the copper clip back over the fixings. Everyday’s a school day! And thanks for the explanation about the paper. Makes total sense. I mean , how many times have u lifted existing lead to find that white flaking powder coming off it, lead oxide I’m assuming.
Fantastic work again, thanks for showing us how you do it I think each time it's a long clip I learn more in detail, is this also a days work for just your self just seems to be a lot, maybe I'm just slow at lead work😂
Thank you and thanks for watching the vid. Omg I wish I could do this in a day. It took me 4 so don’t think your slow lol. It didn’t help not having a scaffold and bumping everting up.
Sorry I can’t remember the brand of oil I used on this job. The building paper protects the underside of the lead from alkalis in the stone and concrete. Yes I know I’m sorry I really need to look into getting a mic. I’m going to research it for the new year. Thanks for watching.
After you trimmed the edge did you leave it or tuck it under? I've seen on a few of you videos you tuck it, I would love to see a video of how you do that and make is so neat. Amazing work as always 👍🏼
Thank you. This job was just a straight cut edge. The best way of getting a turned drip edge nice and neat is to have a continuous copper drip edge. But this only works when going onto ply etc. To do it onto stone you have to preform the turned edge. But it’s very hard to keep this completely straight this way.
Excellent lead work Stuart. Strange that you are putting lead on all these stone caps is this normal ? Is the stone that bad or of poor quality. More than a few of the stone caps seem look okay. You have worked on a number of these stone caps just seems strange. Maybe it is not strange to others and normal for most stone caps.
I’ve done it so many times over the years. The coping stones are porous and let water through. So your relying on usually a DPC tray. Some people like them capped as also the stone has a tendency to discolour. They can go black sometimes. And then people have them pressure washed. This treatment cleans them but wears them down.
@@slbleadworks Well every day a school day so they say. One of the sites I worked on had 7 large blocks of flats all had Stone Capping miles of them. "Built to Fail" for what I can take from this "Keeps you in work though" = built-in obsolescence or premature obsolescence) is a policy of planning or designing a product with an artificially limited useful life " (from google) Seems like the same for building houses in the UK ....This has been same over past 50 years home owners are now up in arms about Energy /Heating /Gas/Electrics etc.... Worked on a Scandia home down in Devon approx 35 years ago walls were 150 mm insulation /Triple glazing/ Heat exchanger in attic our own house building has and still is inferior to anything like that. Interesting about the Stone Capping. I did not know. Have only met one let us say really good Architect who seemed to be worth his salt.... I have been in site meetings where the Architects has been getting strips torn off them for designs that do not work. (regular thing that).
Great videos Stu.
Im a retired plumber from new Zealand and have spent hours watching your work. Brings back memories. A schrinking trade here now.
Keep it up.
Thank you so much for watching my videos.
I’ll try and keep the content coming.
Lets have a look and see whats its all about.....your very good at making complicated work look very easy....the sign of a true Craftsman.
Thank you I think that’s starting to be my catchphrase.
Thank you for watching.
Looks ace Stuart. Love how you took the boat level to the the perp parts of the welts. Definitely something I would do with my OCD 😆
Thank you.
And thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment.
I'm putting cover flashings over soakers onto a parapet wall tomorrow before coping stones are bedded on top. I'm just a roofer but your work inspires me to improve my leadwork
I hope the job went well. Thank you for watching my vids I’m glad they inspire you.
Hi Stuart, awesome work mate, I wrote a comment with a link to an item for you but looks like I can’t send links via RUclips 🤦♂️ so I’ll write it again 😂
I previously said that I see you cut your lead with either lead snips or a stanly knife, from one lead guy to another, we use a Mikita lead nibbler (I did send a link 1st time but obviously not allowed) it’s a battery powered nibbler and makes very light work even cutting code 8 lead, it also gives you the perfect welding rod as well 😁 I would highly recommend one, they pay for themselves in no time at all, they are a game changer 100%
But without sending a link or picture it’s hard to show you the exact one 😢 there around the £270-£300 mark (gone up in price since I brought mine) but like I said, highly recommend bud 👍👍
Mikita DJS161Z is the model, it’s for cutting metal sheet but works perfectly with lead 👍👍
Hi Scott thank you.
I might have to look into getting one of those. Can you use them for cutting the finished straight edge on stuff ?
Yea they work absolutely fine for that, they really are worth buying 100% 👍
brilliant job
Thank you
Great work! These videos where you just let the camera roll are spot on, much better continuity this way as opposed to camera on, camera off, BAM, complete work appears. Lovely craftsmanship all the same! Do you always lead cover coping stones?
Thank you I’m trying to leave the camera roll more and more. But also I’m trying to be mindful of how long the videos are and trying it to make them too long.
We don’t always cover coping stones. But lately it seems to be all I’m doing.
So are you just using 25 mm copper ring shanked nails banged into your plugs or something more substantial? I’ve had situations where a timber (ply) substrate on vertical cladding is too bouncy (insufficient timber studs) so left with no choice but to screw the copper clips. Piloting first and then using nails was an option but found the nails to lose their hold. You can imagine the result, the screw heads starting to show through the lead as the welts are set in. What would you do? Insist the chippy beef it up a bit to give it the strength needed? (If only…)
And, is it imperative to use tar paper at all times regardless of whether the lead sheet is on the flat or vertical and irrelevant of what the substrate is. Is it solely to give the lead longevity (reduce moisture on the back/ underside of the lead.? Does it really make that much difference?
And finally, how come sometimes you have lead clips on the drip/bottom edge and other times not. So when capping is overlapping lower levels of lead then there are lead clips but no clips on this capping. I hope that all makes sense. And as always, a great job. Impeccable standards and a real pleasure to watch you work not to mention an education too. Hopefully not too many questions for you.
Yes I’m just using 25mm copper ring shanked nails hammered into a red plug. Plus a piece of copper to make the nail head bigger. These are fantastic fixings and you don’t see the head when you dress the welts in when using screws.
If you are using screws you can bend the copper over the screw heads and then you won’t see them.
Yes you should always use grade a building paper when laying lead flat or vertical. The only time you don’t need too is for flashings.
The paper protects the underside of the lead from alkalis in the stone and concrete.
It also reduces corrosive attack when laying lead onto plywood and oak.
It doesn’t matter too much if you cut drip bottom edge of use have a turned drip bottom edge. The turned edge is just better in high exposure. To prevent wind lift.
Also thanks for watching.
@@slbleadworks thanks for replying. My goodness, what a simple solution. Kicking myself for not even coming up with that myself, bending the copper clip back over the fixings. Everyday’s a school day! And thanks for the explanation about the paper. Makes total sense. I mean , how many times have u lifted existing lead to find that white flaking powder coming off it, lead oxide I’m assuming.
Hi Stuart. Looks amazing as usual. Did you have to do any flashing under that middle sill? Cheers.
Thank you and thanks for watching. To be honest I can’t remember what I did here.
Fantastic work again, thanks for showing us how you do it I think each time it's a long clip I learn more in detail, is this also a days work for just your self just seems to be a lot, maybe I'm just slow at lead work😂
Thank you and thanks for watching the vid. Omg I wish I could do this in a day. It took me 4 so don’t think your slow lol. It didn’t help not having a scaffold and bumping everting up.
Awesome work.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Another masterpiece completed,
Thank you and thanks for watching
Excellent work
Thank you
Quality work Stu
Thank you so much and thanks for watching
great job, if you don't mind me asking whats the average cost per meter?
Thank you.
Labour and materials or Labour only ?
@@slbleadworks both thanks
nice
Thank you
Brilliant work 👏. One question why the building paper.
Thank you.
The building paper protects the underside of the lead from alkalis in the stone.
What oil are you using and why? What is the purpose of the paper under the lead?
Please get a microphone, l can't hear what you are saying.? Thank
Sorry I can’t remember the brand of oil I used on this job.
The building paper protects the underside of the lead from alkalis in the stone and concrete.
Yes I know I’m sorry I really need to look into getting a mic. I’m going to research it for the new year.
Thanks for watching.
What a legend.
Thank you and thanks for watching
🤘😎🤘
Thank you
lovely job as always mate how long did job take ?
Thank you. This took me 4 days.
@@slbleadworks how to contact with you?
After you trimmed the edge did you leave it or tuck it under? I've seen on a few of you videos you tuck it, I would love to see a video of how you do that and make is so neat. Amazing work as always 👍🏼
Thank you. This job was just a straight cut edge.
The best way of getting a turned drip edge nice and neat is to have a continuous copper drip edge. But this only works when going onto ply etc.
To do it onto stone you have to preform the turned edge. But it’s very hard to keep this completely straight this way.
I want to see how you got that lead up there
I cut it all to size and then it was on my shoulder and up the ladder.
Fantastic work as always. Every time you show the finished job it puts a smile on my face to see how good it looks😄
Some strong fingers there making code 4 look like 3...
Thank you this was code 5💪💪
Sheesh.. was doing a code for back gutter yesterday in the cold and was struggling to do anything with it!!
@@tk2097 it’s definitely much harder in the cold. I have a gas gun I use sometimes to soften and heat the lead. Or even myself 🥶🥶
Excellent lead work Stuart. Strange that you are putting lead on all these stone caps is this normal ? Is the stone that bad or of poor quality. More than a few of the stone caps seem look okay. You have worked on a number of these stone caps just seems strange. Maybe it is not strange to others and normal for most stone caps.
I’ve done it so many times over the years.
The coping stones are porous and let water through. So your relying on usually a DPC tray.
Some people like them capped as also the stone has a tendency to discolour. They can go black sometimes. And then people have them pressure washed. This treatment cleans them but wears them down.
@@slbleadworks Well every day a school day so they say. One of the sites I worked on had 7 large blocks of flats all had Stone Capping miles of them. "Built to Fail" for what I can take from this "Keeps you in work though" = built-in obsolescence or premature obsolescence) is a policy of planning or designing a product with an artificially limited useful life " (from google) Seems like the same for building houses in the UK ....This has been same over past 50 years home owners are now up in arms about Energy /Heating /Gas/Electrics etc.... Worked on a Scandia home down in Devon approx 35 years ago walls were 150 mm insulation /Triple glazing/ Heat exchanger in attic our own house building has and still is inferior to anything like that. Interesting about the Stone Capping. I did not know. Have only met one let us say really good Architect who seemed to be worth his salt.... I have been in site meetings where the Architects has been getting strips torn off them for designs that do not work. (regular thing that).