AFTER "Nock Tuning" ( indexing Vane to Spine ) in Paper @ 15 yds with, Fletched, Field Point arrows, by watching, R F's, 5 y/o, Vid, My accuracy, Improved,. GREATLY ! Take, a Sharpie and Re-Mark your New "Cock Vane" with a couple of ^^^ 's ,.. SIMPLE !
Thank you so much for mentioning us pro shops/small businesses. That before season rush is impressive and straining. The knowledge it takes to tune and work on ALL bows in a timely manner is taken for granted sometimes. Not to mention the finer detail items you are speaking on in this video. Love your content since day 1. Thanks again.
This is the BEST sit down and just talk about arrow video I have watched. I have watched this video 3 or more times now and I pick something up everytime from it. No matter what side of the fence you are on, you must have perfect arrow flight. Thank you for giving this information to all of us.
I hope you guys see this comment. But couple things I took from this podcast: 1) I think a big issue that I’ve found with finding the right spine is walking into the bow shop. They typically look at your set up, look at the poundage, and draw length then look at a chart and say “oh okay yeah you’re in that 340 bracket” and guys get stuck with a dozen 340s that the shop recommends instead of maybe going through the process of shooting through different arrow specs at the shop and finding the time to find what fly’s best. 2) Zach is totally spot on that I think so many people go into this overwhelmed. And I think a major part of that warb mentioned is there’s a hundred ways to get to the light at the end of the tunnel. You research how to tune bow/broadheads and there’s tons of videos that all give different advice. So when your setup isn’t cooperating you’re feeling overwhelmed by am I doing the right method should I research another way etc. I think best way is pick one method and stick with it all the way through the process. 3) I think a lot of us get our set up close but I think Zach was hinting at is you feel comfortable shooting decent groups to get by but you don’t feel 100% confident which is a totally different feeling pulling off your shot. Something I’m really hammering this year for the first time is taking all summer to tweak my setup to where mid August I want to feel so confident in my set up that when I release that arrow there’s no second guessing myself. Sorry for the long comment but it was a long podcast and and a lot of thoughts during lol. Great video Keep it up guys!
I just took the leap this year messing with changing spine and heavy FOC. I've been glued to RF and to THP trying and trying to absorb and digest all of this info. Finally, it's making sense to where I understand and not feel intimidated to the point of being overwhelmed. Apollo 300, 100gr inserts, 125&200 grain produce perfect launch to paper results. Awaiting Sirius to ship my first 2 dozen shafts. Test kit was the best thing I did with Troy's advice.
My buddy owns an archery shop, and he isnt completely on the heavier arrow thing but when i bought my new bow and new arrows we were talking about what i wanted in my arrows and when i told him i wanted to be around the 550 to 600 grains and he said he didnt like it but he would help me make it happen he was claiming speed lose till i showed him the ranch fairy video about the KE loss at 60 yards between light and heavy arrows and he immediately built a 650 grain arrow and got on board
Good talk guys… I enjoy listening to other hunters talk about archery experiences. One, it lets me know I’m not crazy cuz others have experienced it too. And second, it helps me learn what to avoid. 😉👍
I found it best when setting my rest to just start at the recommended 13/16th and once I start paper tune it will sometimes need moved a 1/16 or 2. Thanks for the videos guys.
Great video I’ve been building my own arrows a long time, you guys cover this subject thoroughly I learn something every time. I saw a massive performance improvement when I started sharpening broadheads myself and went 550 grains and north of that currently shooting just over 600 grains, Great material. Keep it Comin.
Last season was my first season bow hunting. Was shooting 400 spine with 100 gr broadhead and couldn't get decent arrow flight to save my life. Went to 125 with a 75 gr insert on a 300 spine victory arrow and started throwing darts down range also went from a cheap cheap bow to the adapt so I wouldn't run into timing issues as often.
So happy to see Zach at the Ranch Fairy ranch with the Ranch Fairy! Been waiting for this! Zach brother can't wait to see this season on the ground up close and deadly! #THP4LIFE
Awesome discussion!! You guys covered a lot of variables and explained them pretty well. I love your content, and Troy’s too! One thing that never seems to get mentioned is arrow length. Mr. Ashby talks about it in his steps of arrow building, but that’s about the only place I see it discussed. Shortening an arrow stiffens it. I started my arrow build a few years ago with long 250 spine shafts and 250 grain points. I had consistent nock-right arrow flight with bare shafts. Rest adjustments didn’t make much difference. I could shoot 40 yards and watch the tail stay flying to the right. Yet, every little bit I cut off the arrows, the less the tail kicked, until suddenly the arrows stopped kicking at all and stayed straight.
One underappreciated factor for perfect broadhead flight is the vanes. Broadheads exert force through lift, and vanes correct the flight by providing lift as well. Your vanes need to exert more lift than the broadheads to avoid flight issues. For instance, the GrizzlyStik Maasais have a larger surface area than man single bevels and exerted more lift than my fletching had, which led to erratic broadhead flight. Adding 4" fletchings achieve perfect broadhead flight. So, sufficient fletching is absolutely crucial for achieving perfect broadhead flight.
Im getting a new bow from a shop, should I get it tuned to a normal weight arrow first and then start the high foc build? I don’t have heavy arrows yet
Hey guys, this is Allen from Tn and my feeble mind is thinking on the mechanicals and I use to shoot them but they were just too inconsistent but like the on just the penetrating aspect of mechanicals is to me that when they hit and start thru the skin to the point of where the blades are deploying then to me when the blades deploy that takes away a little energy and even a little momentum therefore slowing or hindering the penetrating factor
How efficient can it be to have someone else paper tune your arrows for you when you consider gripping the bow, anchor points, torque on the riser, draw length etc.? No two people shoot a bow the same as a machine would do, so it doesn't make sense to me that an archery shop can paper tune my arrows for me. Am I right or am I missing something?
Hi guys. Whole different situation for me. I been shooting lower poundage,42#, for last 12 yrs. My sex, age, injuries that is the best I can do. My draw length is 25.5". I am also self taught hunter, no " buddies" or hunting camps for single women. I shoot n hunt pretty much alone. Ive has many bows, some flagship, some lesser. I found I shoot short draw bows the best. The draw angle just makes sense, for efficiency, n every ounce of energy makes a difference at my specs. I am a successful hunter, a bit of a killer. I way out hunt most of the male hunters I know. My question is is there a " high" mark for how heavy an arrow for a light set up, besides speed. Like arrow flight? I been shooting a victory VAP 450 w 75 gn insert, n 100gn head pretty well. Much better than the 500 arrow w 75 gn broadheads that I started with. So last year I tried to go up to a 400 spine, 90 gn insert, 125 gn broadhead, n I could not get arrow or bow tuned at all. Just wonky! So I went from a 365gn arrow to a 418gn n it just doesn't seem to work? Any tips?? Like I said, I'm a lone she wolf, no help. I just have to figure this stuff out myself. I never really had a bow shop that was helpful last 15 yrs or so
I shoot a recurve.....way different for us but there are some similarities. No center shot so bare shaft tuning is what I use. Up and down first and then windage and want it just slightly weak (tail/nock left for a righty) and then the fletch will stiffen it up. So many ppl just cut their arrows without doing this...HIGE mistake - find the Field tip you want to shoot that will match the weight of the broadheads you want to shoot - get a few different spined arrows FULL LENGTH (don't get hung up with how much is past your riser at full draw - makes no difference unless it's TOO SHORT. You want great arrow flight - length doesn't matter. when you get them shooting pretty good ( BS - Bare shaft) fletch 3 and have 3 BS - Put a temporary sight on you bow - Tape a tooth pick any thing so you have something to aim with. Keep your bow as upright as you can (even if you cant your bow later) Start short (10 yards) and try to shoot groups - alternate fletched and BS. See how the groups are - if the BS are a bit right or left 1/4"-1/2" don't worry too much. You can fine tune by Cutting a shaft (do this in very small amounts 1/16" - 1/8" max) but is it's close you can just twist or untwist your bow string a bit to change BH (brace height). More BH makes your arrow STIFFER and Less BH makes it weaker (more travel). Weigh your BH and field tips and get them as close as you can. FOR ME - I just shoot BH just before hunting season. Just my two cents worth
I learn so much from you guys ! You probably here that a lot but I don’t have a lot of people around me to explain this and this video is so clear and makes sense for me ! Have you guys tired the g3 dead meat or mega meat ? They are so so amazing
You guys need to collaborate with the “Smarter everyday” channel. I guarantee he would be interested, and the guy is crazy smart. With his equipment you guys could put the argument to bed for good. Arrow flight dynamics would definitely peak his interest. I mean, the guy did high speed analysis of string trimmers! I’m not a thumbs up seeker, but if my fellow bow hunters get this comment liked enough, maybe the boys would see it and we could see that collaboration.
Fellas is there any way we could see some of the videos of the arrow flights? I think itd be cool to see the change in Zachs setup cause like he said you can clearly see the change on the shots at the pigs
I have stepped up to heavier arrows and 150 grain heads, but I shoot a crossbow so not much tuning available, I shoot expandables love Rage, Swhackers, and would like Sevrs if they were more user friendly
if your arrows clock left (no vanes) i assume you want left helical fletching (or left wing feathers)...does the grind on single bevel make a difference...I.E. Ranch Fairy single bevel broadheads have right bevel...would this make a difference?
Don’t forget the importance of overgripping the bow. I was having issues with broadhead flight then realized it was my trip. A proper tuned bow and proper grip they should fly great
I noticed shooting bare shafts was a really good way to find flaws in my form. With no fletchings to correct the back end of the arrow, I could watch the arrow fly through the air with the knock end staying drifted to the side that my form pushed it.
Great content as usual guys thank you for sharing! Are you guys familiar with John Dudley or Cameron Hanes? Both world class archers and long range killers! Ever think it would be possible to interview one or both of those guys in the future? They both seem to have arrow flight down to an art!
Yeah. Troy talked for 2 hours with Dudley about a month ago. Kind of a difficult watch because neither of them are going to budge on their position, but I'll side with Dudley. He's put hundreds of animals of all types (not just pigs over feeders) on the ground with 6-8gpp.
i’m about to try out the rip tko at 250 spine with a 8.9 gpi super stoked to see how they do if anyone has any other recommendations for a 250 and low gpi let me know
After one year of confusion from guys who couldn’t tune my bow I now paper tune with a bare shaft and knock tune while doing it. Step back to 60 and the broadhead hits in the same spot as a field point.
I shot competitive as a kid and never put this much thought into my arrows. It was set. I used a used set of arrows my neighbor killed a bear with until I grew out of the draw length. As heavy as my bow could launch, never had a second thought
I have followed you guys for years and love the content and will always keep watching.but with that said with the people that watch you guys I would love to see a video of you guys comparing fix and expanding broadheads but putting the same effort in to both....I mean I have never seen that there's almost no video of people sharpening expandable and really tooning them...and I pretty sure even you guys didn't ...anyway keep the good work
Probelm i have where, i live....none of the archery shops want to hear that i shoot 500+ grain arrows. The bare all speed speed speed. Only 1 person knew about arrow building and he was at Bass Pro, but didnt have time to really talk because its bass pro, and the line was ridiculous
Yeah, the arrow was nick high. Ended up switching from a 300 spine to a 250 spine and the total arrow weight went from 500 to 603. That shot much better. I’m gonna try getting a little lighter total arrow setup for the season but keep shooting the same spine.
Using a stiffer spine just covers up tuning issues with your bow. How far do you guys shoot your broadheads and field points when broadhead tuning? I know you guys like to keep your shots 20-30 yards but shoot them out to 60-80 and see if they still hit together.
Archer paradox is real....I've seen guys under or over spined shoot mechanicals and don't get pass throughs at close range.....the arrow often hits a poor angle and between the angle, the paradox and the energy to open the mechanical, the animal is subsequently lost. The hunters are mind blown that their rage didn't get any penetration....
You shot a rage broadhead at the Shoulder of the pig. Try a swhacker at the shoulder of the pig. You guys set up your bows for low percentage shots. High percentage shots is what everyone is looking for. Look at the QDMA broadhead study.
Man, having killed more pigs than anything with my bow I can tell you that the swhacker would not have fared much better. The only mechanical that is somewhat adequate is the Sevr 1.5. Even with rib shots, you would be shocked at how well a 250 pig soaks up an arrow. Nothing in north America compares. When you are up in a tree stand with steep angles your work is even more cut out for you. Lastly you have to cheat shoulder when shooting a pig. Their vitals are different than a deer.
I shot a buck at almost 30 yards with a swhacker and broke both front shoulders. Testers almost always use the rage as an example mechanical because it's a poor penetrating broadhead.
@cjr4497 you actually proved my point. Most people watching this aren't setting up their bows for hogs. They are setting them up for deer and no one is shooting for the shoulder. Like I said...their whole set up is set up for "just in case". Not "more than likely"
Y'all need to leave this topic to Chris b or Dudley. Why aren't y'all talking about arrow spine calculators. Before you even screw the rest on you should know what the proper arrow spine is for your draw weight and draw length with your chosen insert and broadhead
Please get your facts straight. As a shop owner you’re misleading soooo many people. Ex. 7yds is the worst arrow flight. Get it close through paper then use other methods to fine tune.
I can’t wait for this fad to end. I’ve shot thunderhead 100’s forever. Line the blades up with the fletchings and you’re good to go. If I shoot one I throw it away and put a new one on. No sharpening or carrying all that crap with you. There’s no doubt in my mind that Troy knows what he’s talking about but it’s not really necessary.
No doubt in your mind he knows what he's talking about, but it's a fad? "Facts are stubborn things" Nobody said you had to watch, or listen, or asked if you care what someone else does. Do what works for you. Live life.
@thehuntingpublicpodcast That's what you say but you guys are always bashing on mechanical broadheads. A study done that the QDMA put out started that more deer were recovered from 2007 to 2018 using a mechanical over a fix blade broadhead. I don't like how you guys have kinda put yourself in that heavy arrow/single beval box.
@johnhayes2299 thp had bad results themselves with mechanicals is why they switched. So it's how they feel about them. It's their right. They have the videos to prove it.
So what I gathered is I need a small rocket on the back of my arrows for perfect flight. Got it. Get Joe Rogan to help me convince Elon to make X arrow.
Broadhead Tuning 101: Center shot Paper tune Buy .001-.003 arrows straightness does matter with fix blades Square carbon and inserts Spin test with a dial your looking for .002 or better if it wobbles heat insert rotate insert or bend front of shaft until within .002 Shoot broadhead then field point and start moving rest 3/16in This is lost knowledge and most overthink it due to new technology
I wished everyone could comprehend that a bow and arrow need to be tuned together. The bow must be in tune as perfectly as possible first. Then the arrow. People, it is NOT rocket science. And broad heads don’t need to be an 1 1/2-2” wide nor weight 200 grain. Nor an arrow that weighs 600 grain. A 425 grain two blade will slip pass thru on whitetail. Killed many with that “ light weight pathetic “ arrow. And pigs. It’s shot placement people.
Because unlike the 30yo newfangled bullshit that has taken over and is maddeningly inconsistent on game, high foc consistently works almost regardless of the situation. What RF preaches is actually ancient knowledge, the point weight should at least match shaft weight, weather its stone or steel it doest matter. English warbow arrows on the Mary rose were all 18-19% foc, native American river cane and cedar arrows were 15-25% foc, same for the Mongols, Papua New Guinea hunters use 3-5k grain bareshafts @32-40% foc that look like 5' spears and take deer to 40y, the only historic exception is the Japanese. Why does anyone listen to the industry clowns when there's over 2,000 years of verifiable facts on what works.
The Berger holes are not the center. Might want to break out that tape measure. He’s telling you how to tune but doesn’t even know……wow great podcast of what not to do. Then ranch fairy admits he was shooting the wrong arrows. Is this for real?!?!?
It's all overwhelming and confusing but these sit downs with ranch fairy are information gold mines.
AFTER "Nock Tuning" ( indexing Vane to Spine ) in Paper @ 15 yds with, Fletched, Field Point arrows, by watching, R F's, 5 y/o, Vid, My accuracy, Improved,. GREATLY !
Take, a Sharpie and Re-Mark your New "Cock Vane" with a couple of ^^^ 's ,.. SIMPLE !
Yeah and to think Dudley had criticism for RF
Thank you so much for mentioning us pro shops/small businesses. That before season rush is impressive and straining. The knowledge it takes to tune and work on ALL bows in a timely manner is taken for granted sometimes. Not to mention the finer detail items you are speaking on in this video. Love your content since day 1. Thanks again.
Can you guys please make a video showing the arrow in flight filming with your phones and how you do it? Would help a lot. Thanks!!
They have a nock tuning video where they showed some slo mo footage
This is the BEST sit down and just talk about arrow video I have watched. I have watched this video 3 or more times now and I pick something up everytime from it.
No matter what side of the fence you are on, you must have perfect arrow flight.
Thank you for giving this information to all of us.
I hope you guys see this comment. But couple things I took from this podcast:
1) I think a big issue that I’ve found with finding the right spine is walking into the bow shop. They typically look at your set up, look at the poundage, and draw length then look at a chart and say “oh okay yeah you’re in that 340 bracket” and guys get stuck with a dozen 340s that the shop recommends instead of maybe going through the process of shooting through different arrow specs at the shop and finding the time to find what fly’s best.
2) Zach is totally spot on that I think so many people go into this overwhelmed. And I think a major part of that warb mentioned is there’s a hundred ways to get to the light at the end of the tunnel. You research how to tune bow/broadheads and there’s tons of videos that all give different advice. So when your setup isn’t cooperating you’re feeling overwhelmed by am I doing the right method should I research another way etc. I think best way is pick one method and stick with it all the way through the process.
3) I think a lot of us get our set up close but I think Zach was hinting at is you feel comfortable shooting decent groups to get by but you don’t feel 100% confident which is a totally different feeling pulling off your shot. Something I’m really hammering this year for the first time is taking all summer to tweak my setup to where mid August I want to feel so confident in my set up that when I release that arrow there’s no second guessing myself.
Sorry for the long comment but it was a long podcast and and a lot of thoughts during lol. Great video Keep it up guys!
I’m so 😊 oh and my 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
So much good stuff packed in here. The round table format adds a lot of perspective and I love it. Thanks guys!
I just took the leap this year messing with changing spine and heavy FOC. I've been glued to RF and to THP trying and trying to absorb and digest all of this info. Finally, it's making sense to where I understand and not feel intimidated to the point of being overwhelmed. Apollo 300, 100gr inserts, 125&200 grain produce perfect launch to paper results. Awaiting Sirius to ship my first 2 dozen shafts. Test kit was the best thing I did with Troy's advice.
My buddy owns an archery shop, and he isnt completely on the heavier arrow thing but when i bought my new bow and new arrows we were talking about what i wanted in my arrows and when i told him i wanted to be around the 550 to 600 grains and he said he didnt like it but he would help me make it happen he was claiming speed lose till i showed him the ranch fairy video about the KE loss at 60 yards between light and heavy arrows and he immediately built a 650 grain arrow and got on board
It really is a confidence booster. Really worth the trouble - and fun.
Good talk guys… I enjoy listening to other hunters talk about archery experiences. One, it lets me know I’m not crazy cuz others have experienced it too. And second, it helps me learn what to avoid. 😉👍
If you shoot at night with lighted nocks and sight lights it easy to see any and all imperfections in arrow flight.. Great video
I found it best when setting my rest to just start at the recommended 13/16th and once I start paper tune it will sometimes need moved a 1/16 or 2. Thanks for the videos guys.
Great video I’ve been building my own arrows a long time, you guys cover this subject thoroughly I learn something every time. I saw a massive performance improvement when I started sharpening broadheads myself and went 550 grains and north of that currently shooting just over 600 grains, Great material. Keep it Comin.
Man I'm getting into archey this Saturday, I've learned so much about arrow flight it's unreal. Thanks ranch fairy and the hunting public
Last season was my first season bow hunting. Was shooting 400 spine with 100 gr broadhead and couldn't get decent arrow flight to save my life. Went to 125 with a 75 gr insert on a 300 spine victory arrow and started throwing darts down range also went from a cheap cheap bow to the adapt so I wouldn't run into timing issues as often.
Just ordered that black Topo shirt! Thank y’all for everything you do!
So happy to see Zach at the Ranch Fairy ranch with the Ranch Fairy! Been waiting for this! Zach brother can't wait to see this season on the ground up close and deadly! #THP4LIFE
Awesome discussion!! You guys covered a lot of variables and explained them pretty well. I love your content, and Troy’s too! One thing that never seems to get mentioned is arrow length. Mr. Ashby talks about it in his steps of arrow building, but that’s about the only place I see it discussed. Shortening an arrow stiffens it. I started my arrow build a few years ago with long 250 spine shafts and 250 grain points. I had consistent nock-right arrow flight with bare shafts. Rest adjustments didn’t make much difference. I could shoot 40 yards and watch the tail stay flying to the right. Yet, every little bit I cut off the arrows, the less the tail kicked, until suddenly the arrows stopped kicking at all and stayed straight.
did you guys record zach setting his up? that would be a good watch.
One underappreciated factor for perfect broadhead flight is the vanes. Broadheads exert force through lift, and vanes correct the flight by providing lift as well. Your vanes need to exert more lift than the broadheads to avoid flight issues. For instance, the GrizzlyStik Maasais have a larger surface area than man single bevels and exerted more lift than my fletching had, which led to erratic broadhead flight. Adding 4" fletchings achieve perfect broadhead flight. So, sufficient fletching is absolutely crucial for achieving perfect broadhead flight.
Im curious to know what tip and insert weight zach was using on the 300 spine that was making him underspined.
Great info fellas
Do you index you broad heads with your fletchings? If so what’s that look like?
I've been waiting in videos with RF for a while. Come on piggy piggy.
Hog hunting vid coming to the main channel soon! It's a good one!
good info.... when are you fixing that closet door?
Im getting a new bow from a shop, should I get it tuned to a normal weight arrow first and then start the high foc build? I don’t have heavy arrows yet
Hey guys, this is Allen from Tn and my feeble mind is thinking on the mechanicals and I use to shoot them but they were just too inconsistent but like the on just the penetrating aspect of mechanicals is to me that when they hit and start thru the skin to the point of where the blades are deploying then to me when the blades deploy that takes away a little energy and even a little momentum therefore slowing or hindering the penetrating factor
How efficient can it be to have someone else paper tune your arrows for you when you consider gripping the bow, anchor points, torque on the riser, draw length etc.? No two people shoot a bow the same as a machine would do, so it doesn't make sense to me that an archery shop can paper tune my arrows for me. Am I right or am I missing something?
Hi guys. Whole different situation for me. I been shooting lower poundage,42#, for last 12 yrs. My sex, age, injuries that is the best I can do. My draw length is 25.5". I am also self taught hunter, no " buddies" or hunting camps for single women. I shoot n hunt pretty much alone. Ive has many bows, some flagship, some lesser. I found I shoot short draw bows the best. The draw angle just makes sense, for efficiency, n every ounce of energy makes a difference at my specs. I am a successful hunter, a bit of a killer. I way out hunt most of the male hunters I know. My question is is there a " high" mark for how heavy an arrow for a light set up, besides speed. Like arrow flight? I been shooting a victory VAP 450 w 75 gn insert, n 100gn head pretty well. Much better than the 500 arrow w 75 gn broadheads that I started with. So last year I tried to go up to a 400 spine, 90 gn insert, 125 gn broadhead, n I could not get arrow or bow tuned at all. Just wonky! So I went from a 365gn arrow to a 418gn n it just doesn't seem to work? Any tips?? Like I said, I'm a lone she wolf, no help. I just have to figure this stuff out myself. I never really had a bow shop that was helpful last 15 yrs or so
I love your videos and I will never stop loving them
Thanks Brody!
Hey guys what do you think about Altra no spine arrow?
When I switched to a 300 spine from a 340 it was night and day difference.
I shoot a recurve.....way different for us but there are some similarities. No center shot so bare shaft tuning is what I use. Up and down first and then windage and want it just slightly weak (tail/nock left for a righty) and then the fletch will stiffen it up.
So many ppl just cut their arrows without doing this...HIGE mistake - find the Field tip you want to shoot that will match the weight of the broadheads you want to shoot - get a few different spined arrows FULL LENGTH (don't get hung up with how much is past your riser at full draw - makes no difference unless it's TOO SHORT. You want great arrow flight - length doesn't matter.
when you get them shooting pretty good ( BS - Bare shaft) fletch 3 and have 3 BS - Put a temporary sight on you bow - Tape a tooth pick any thing so you have something to aim with. Keep your bow as upright as you can (even if you cant your bow later)
Start short (10 yards) and try to shoot groups - alternate fletched and BS.
See how the groups are - if the BS are a bit right or left 1/4"-1/2" don't worry too much.
You can fine tune by Cutting a shaft (do this in very small amounts 1/16" - 1/8" max) but is it's close you can just twist or untwist your bow string a bit to change BH (brace height).
More BH makes your arrow STIFFER and Less BH makes it weaker (more travel).
Weigh your BH and field tips and get them as close as you can.
FOR ME - I just shoot BH just before hunting season.
Just my two cents worth
I learn so much from you guys ! You probably here that a lot but I don’t have a lot of people around me to explain this and this video is so clear and makes sense for me ! Have you guys tired the g3 dead meat or mega meat ? They are so so amazing
You guys need to collaborate with the “Smarter everyday” channel. I guarantee he would be interested, and the guy is crazy smart. With his equipment you guys could put the argument to bed for good. Arrow flight dynamics would definitely peak his interest. I mean, the guy did high speed analysis of string trimmers!
I’m not a thumbs up seeker, but if my fellow bow hunters get this comment liked enough, maybe the boys would see it and we could see that collaboration.
Fellas is there any way we could see some of the videos of the arrow flights? I think itd be cool to see the change in Zachs setup cause like he said you can clearly see the change on the shots at the pigs
I have stepped up to heavier arrows and 150 grain heads, but I shoot a crossbow so not much tuning available, I shoot expandables love Rage, Swhackers, and would like Sevrs if they were more user friendly
The free way to check if your under spined is back a few pounds out of your bow and see if it shoots better
if your arrows clock left (no vanes) i assume you want left helical fletching (or left wing feathers)...does the grind on single bevel make a difference...I.E. Ranch Fairy single bevel broadheads have right bevel...would this make a difference?
What is that mounted on top of the stabilizer?
Don’t forget the importance of overgripping the bow. I was having issues with broadhead flight then realized it was my trip. A proper tuned bow and proper grip they should fly great
Thats a good point. Practicing form early in the offseason is a good habit to make.
I noticed shooting bare shafts was a really good way to find flaws in my form. With no fletchings to correct the back end of the arrow, I could watch the arrow fly through the air with the knock end staying drifted to the side that my form pushed it.
Exactly! I had the same problem over torquing
Have u guys ever cut your practice arrows to the same length as your arrows with broadheads?
Great content as usual guys thank you for sharing! Are you guys familiar with John Dudley or Cameron Hanes? Both world class archers and long range killers! Ever think it would be possible to interview one or both of those guys in the future? They both seem to have arrow flight down to an art!
Yeah. Troy talked for 2 hours with Dudley about a month ago. Kind of a difficult watch because neither of them are going to budge on their position, but I'll side with Dudley. He's put hundreds of animals of all types (not just pigs over feeders) on the ground with 6-8gpp.
i’m about to try out the rip tko at 250 spine with a 8.9 gpi super stoked to see how they do if anyone has any other recommendations for a 250 and low gpi let me know
After one year of confusion from guys who couldn’t tune my bow I now paper tune with a bare shaft and knock tune while doing it. Step back to 60 and the broadhead hits in the same spot as a field point.
What should I do if my rest doesn’t have a way to adjust up and down and I need to move it up because my knock is coming out high?
Cut your d-loop off and move it down on the string
I shot competitive as a kid and never put this much thought into my arrows. It was set. I used a used set of arrows my neighbor killed a bear with until I grew out of the draw length. As heavy as my bow could launch, never had a second thought
Is 165 lb draw weight on a crossbow enough to shoot through a hog or deer?
Mine are hitting tail low left. My bow tech has moved and the shop is looking for a new one
I have followed you guys for years and love the content and will always keep watching.but with that said with the people that watch you guys I would love to see a video of you guys comparing fix and expanding broadheads but putting the same effort in to both....I mean I have never seen that there's almost no video of people sharpening expandable and really tooning them...and I pretty sure even you guys didn't ...anyway keep the good work
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Probelm i have where, i live....none of the archery shops want to hear that i shoot 500+ grain arrows. The bare all speed speed speed.
Only 1 person knew about arrow building and he was at Bass Pro, but didnt have time to really talk because its bass pro, and the line was ridiculous
Zach. Was your bow shooting nock high when you shot low on that first pig?
Yeah, the arrow was nick high. Ended up switching from a 300 spine to a 250 spine and the total arrow weight went from 500 to 603. That shot much better. I’m gonna try getting a little lighter total arrow setup for the season but keep shooting the same spine.
Using a stiffer spine just covers up tuning issues with your bow. How far do you guys shoot your broadheads and field points when broadhead tuning? I know you guys like to keep your shots 20-30 yards but shoot them out to 60-80 and see if they still hit together.
Archer paradox is real....I've seen guys under or over spined shoot mechanicals and don't get pass throughs at close range.....the arrow often hits a poor angle and between the angle, the paradox and the energy to open the mechanical, the animal is subsequently lost. The hunters are mind blown that their rage didn't get any penetration....
How does a man with a stick bow micro adjust like yall wheeled bows?
Mostly arrow spine, nock point, and head weight, your options are a little more limited for tuning but it can be done!
You shot a rage broadhead at the Shoulder of the pig. Try a swhacker at the shoulder of the pig. You guys set up your bows for low percentage shots. High percentage shots is what everyone is looking for. Look at the QDMA broadhead study.
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Man, having killed more pigs than anything with my bow I can tell you that the swhacker would not have fared much better. The only mechanical that is somewhat adequate is the Sevr 1.5. Even with rib shots, you would be shocked at how well a 250 pig soaks up an arrow. Nothing in north America compares. When you are up in a tree stand with steep angles your work is even more cut out for you. Lastly you have to cheat shoulder when shooting a pig. Their vitals are different than a deer.
I shot a buck at almost 30 yards with a swhacker and broke both front shoulders. Testers almost always use the rage as an example mechanical because it's a poor penetrating broadhead.
@cjr4497 you actually proved my point. Most people watching this aren't setting up their bows for hogs. They are setting them up for deer and no one is shooting for the shoulder. Like I said...their whole set up is set up for "just in case". Not "more than likely"
My lightbulb moment came when someone described an arrow like a nerf football with the fletchings on it. It was like well duh.
God this crap stresses me out boys 😵💫
move cams for gross adjustments, rests for around 1/16" of fine tuning
Who knows a good bow shop in east tennessee?
Create session guys! You guys seem to be short on sleep, there's a lot of yawning going on lol.
I used my ladder lol... And nooo, I didnt hit it.. Ima pruh-fesunal high-tek hillbilly. Thanks for the vid guys.
Y'all need to leave this topic to Chris b or Dudley.
Why aren't y'all talking about arrow spine calculators.
Before you even screw the rest on you should know what the proper arrow spine is for your draw weight and draw length with your chosen insert and broadhead
Perfect broadhead flight it’s called the Swhacker
Please get your facts straight. As a shop owner you’re misleading soooo many people. Ex. 7yds is the worst arrow flight. Get it close through paper then use other methods to fine tune.
I can’t wait for this fad to end. I’ve shot thunderhead 100’s forever. Line the blades up with the fletchings and you’re good to go. If I shoot one I throw it away and put a new one on. No sharpening or carrying all that crap with you.
There’s no doubt in my mind that Troy knows what he’s talking about but it’s not really necessary.
No doubt in your mind he knows what he's talking about, but it's a fad? "Facts are stubborn things" Nobody said you had to watch, or listen, or asked if you care what someone else does. Do what works for you. Live life.
@@andrewofthenorth5500 the heavy arrows, sharpening broadheads and such. It’s not a bad thing or a necessity. Just staying
I think we all agree. We want folks to shoot whatever they feel confident with. There are a ton of great options out there that work just fine.
@thehuntingpublicpodcast That's what you say but you guys are always bashing on mechanical broadheads. A study done that the QDMA put out started that more deer were recovered from 2007 to 2018 using a mechanical over a fix blade broadhead. I don't like how you guys have kinda put yourself in that heavy arrow/single beval box.
@johnhayes2299 thp had bad results themselves with mechanicals is why they switched. So it's how they feel about them. It's their right. They have the videos to prove it.
❤️ *promosm*
So what I gathered is I need a small rocket on the back of my arrows for perfect flight. Got it. Get Joe Rogan to help me convince Elon to make X arrow.
Broadhead Tuning 101:
Center shot
Paper tune
Buy .001-.003 arrows straightness does matter with fix blades
Square carbon and inserts
Spin test with a dial your looking for .002 or better if it wobbles heat insert rotate insert or bend front of shaft until within .002
Shoot broadhead then field point and start moving rest 3/16in
This is lost knowledge and most overthink it due to new technology
I wished everyone could comprehend that a bow and arrow need to be tuned together. The bow must be in tune as perfectly as possible first. Then the arrow. People, it is NOT rocket science. And broad heads don’t need to be an 1 1/2-2” wide nor weight 200 grain. Nor an arrow that weighs 600 grain. A 425 grain two blade will slip pass thru on whitetail. Killed many with that “ light weight pathetic “ arrow. And pigs. It’s shot placement people.
Why is anyone listening to fairy?
Because unlike the 30yo newfangled bullshit that has taken over and is maddeningly inconsistent on game, high foc consistently works almost regardless of the situation.
What RF preaches is actually ancient knowledge, the point weight should at least match shaft weight, weather its stone or steel it doest matter. English warbow arrows on the Mary rose were all 18-19% foc, native American river cane and cedar arrows were 15-25% foc, same for the Mongols, Papua New Guinea hunters use 3-5k grain bareshafts @32-40% foc that look like 5' spears and take deer to 40y, the only historic exception is the Japanese.
Why does anyone listen to the industry clowns when there's over 2,000 years of verifiable facts on what works.
Wanna make them fly like field points? Screw on a G5 deadmeat. Or any mechanical and go hunting!!!
The Berger holes are not the center. Might want to break out that tape measure. He’s telling you how to tune but doesn’t even know……wow great podcast of what not to do. Then ranch fairy admits he was shooting the wrong arrows. Is this for real?!?!?