After watching this video the other day I emailed KP Arms and asked them how cold the KP15 is rated for and this is what they replied "The material is rated to -40 degrees. People are actively using them in Finnland and Alaska." Whether the damage to yours is from the cold or just the weakness in that region of the lower, or both, it's something that I've never seen or heard of with an aluminum lower. Keep up the good work!
The RecoilTV british guy was one of the few investors in the production tooling for the KP15, but of course they never disclosed that! There was no way that "review" was ever going to have a negative outcome.
When did he invest into it, and how did you find out if it wasn't disclosed? Even then it wouldn't change the video itself showing it could handle the abuse that was tested. People invest in things because they think it will do well, if it was breaking and falling apart there'd be not reason to invest.
@arder9332 He was one of the principal investors listed in the holding company LLC that KE Arms used to raise the funds for the molds, so he invested his money before the product existed. It's in a thread on arfcom, which is where I found out about it and Russel Phagan (sinistralrifleman) also confirmed it on kiwifarms.
@@thinkharder9332 It could change the video because of selective editing. It's like the pharmaceutical company that funds a medical study that never gets published because the study shows bad attributes of their medication. They only publish the study that is done under very controlled conditions and shows the medicines positive attributes. If a gun reviewer has no financial interest then they are more likely to not selectively edit. You can't be that naive.
@@timrobinson6573 So what conditions are being selected out? The failure described in this video is because of extreme cold temps, they were filming in the Arizona desert which is going to be the exact inverse, it's regularly warm, and even at night while cold it's usually above freezing.
the issue isn't compressive loads tbh, its actually that they just don't use enough polymer, use the wrong thermopolymer and make it too hard in areas. If you touched up the upper to allow for an SR-25 style slant cut you could also get out a little more strength and not using proprietary push pins that would stop those holes being a weak point. But being made by a Satanist with zero material science quals doesn't help
There are fiberglass reinforced plastics. The Russiany use em for the knife sheethes with integrated bolt cutters on NR-2 and NRS-2 type knives. Extremely sturdy and they mold them into complex shapes. And milling can still be done for even tighter tolerances
FRP is incredibly brittle and its not really solving the issue of "here's a huge weak spot inherent to the AR15's design". Yeah it'd be straight up better, but ass to implement into the process.
Good video. I have one of these lowers that basically just lives in my car when I'm not shooting. I'll keep an eye out for any cracking during the colder months.
There is a reason Hoffman Tactical built the Orca the way he did. I am not a fan of the original lower design he did but I'm curious how a well made Orca would stack up against a KP-15.
Funny you mentioned that, I am working on making some super high end polymers for his lowers! Im talking about polymers that can replace metal parts if you use equivalent material weight. Waiting on the machinery so I can start making fillament.
@@NvrchFotia Although it is a pretty good chemical mixture it cannot replace metal parts. It is very tough since it is a PC blend but it does not have the heat resistance, chemical resistance or the strength required to be a ultra performance polymer. It is definitely and engineering polymer but it does not have the numbers to replace metal parts in all three. The polymers Im talking about can withstand 200C continuously, have no known chemical solvents under 200C and have some material properties within the range of 6061 aluminum!
Why dont you just put the retaining pins back in the holes you took them out of to retain them instead of adding additional, identical holes in the stock
Well, in my case I had that exact same talk with whatshisface from KE: the pins have to be out to reassemble the rifle, and removing them, reinstalling them, and removing them again is quite annoying after having done it several times. I'd really rather have them retained in a different location until I'm ready to install. It's like pushing the pins back in on your lower after disassembling it every time and only opening them right before you use them. Their answer was to just put them inside the trapdoor buttstock. I understand the argument. It is workable, but it is an annoyance that there is a well accepted solution that they refuse to do. Id even take their petulant "you guys are stupid but here it is" attitude they're likely to give just to have the capability I want. The HK pin holes just work well and have been the standard since the 50's for a reason. When you're working in the field, you need to retain the pins *before* the next step of disassbly to avoid losing them. It seems stupid but it's a big deal for critical small parts of a gun. For that reason I'd never use my KP 15 build for a serious use rifle, though I love shooting the little thing.
@@GammaAKF I've had my rifle for 2 years and have not found it annoying. If you had separate holes in the butt stock for them You would still have to take them out of their normal holes, put them in the separate holes, take them out and put them back in their normal holes. Just use your brain and think about the process and what you're saying.
I did train with the KP15 a couple of months in hopes to use it for serious duty. While mine did not crack, the takedown pins, the stock not being plate carrier friendly, trigger quirks etc was enough to move me to an Aero M4E1 lower. Still do not regret buying the KP15 since it is a cool concept..
The stock can be cut down a little. A company sells them pre cut. Don't know the name. I run my adjustable stock only 2-3 clicks out, so the KP15 seems to be on the long side for me as well.
I can see KE guys getting pretty reasonably pissed lol, "it was cracked, you were going to send it back, and you kept using it until total failure?!" If it was an aluminum lower and it cracked I don't think it would have been useable at all, and the fact that it continued to work with obvious damage says that it is pretty good as far as polymer receivers go, but you guys are 100% right: your use case and environment should dictate your weapon choice, and clearly the KP is not well suited for harsh winters.
I live in Northeastern Pennsylvania. It gets cold here. I'm glad you Gentlemen brought this to my attention. I have 2 of the kp15 lowers, one went back immediately due to the bolt catch didn't function properly and required swimming. Other than that I've had no issues. But those lowers are on firearms that do not see hard use, poor man's DMRs if you will. 😂 great video
Good video gentlemen! Congrats on training and using your equipment realistically! I have a KP15 and live in the northern part of the country and have often wondered about the durability of the polymer in the cold. Prior to buying mine I talked to KE Arms (Russell personally in fact) and was told the Polymer should be good down to sub zero temperatures. From what I understand you guys were training in cool weather, but definitely not sub zero weather, when your lowers broke. It definitely gives me some concerns. Sadly it's too late in the year for me to test this myself by leaving the rifle outside overnight and then testing the lower. I could put it in the deep freezer though... As much as I hate to admit it I'm going to switch back to my heavier aluminum lower until I can answer that question. What is interesting is the A2 buttstock is polymer, and I've never seen one break despite having been in the infantry and seen hundreds of them used on IMT ranges. I think the area around the take down pin and safety is the weak point and has to be metal. As a former grunt myself I totally agree with your critiques about the trap door and retaining the take down pins needing to be included. I also agree that KE should be open and honest about what climate the rifle is suitable for. I agree that everything has (or should have, there's lots of people trying to sell stuff to people just to make a buck) a use case scenario it is designed for, and I've often wondered if the guys at InRange and KE had all the relevant experience to develop something like this. Don't get me wrong, they are awesome shooters and I totally applaud their approach to realism with the way they compete, but I also feel their WWSD project could have benefited from letting some grunts do some IMT in the cold with it. Really appreciate your video and if you ever want to get out and do some fieldcraft training hit me up, I love training with guys who get IT! badlandsfieldcraft.wordpress.com/2022/11/15/fieldcraft-class-description-and-gear-list/
I have some KP15s but they're not really my primary platforms. Good info. I'll admit I have not run mine much at all. I really got them as a low-cost cache platform. I do like how they look though. I think the big take away is that this should probably be a backup or training platform for the time being. Since it clearly still hasn't been perfected. I'd still buy one and recommend one. For the price you can't beat that you get an all-in-one sort of. What I mean by that is there is no need to purchase a different stock for it and you really don't even have to buy a sling mount, though I do. You can just run some 550 through it. I agree the trap door should be standard but it's also a nice added feature. Thanks for the vid. Let me reiterate for those in the gun "community" who suck at reading comprehension. I'd only recommend this as a secondary platform. Not as your primary. It's a descent budget entry item.
Were y'all's both black lowers or another color? I know adding dyes to polymer potentially changes the characteristics quite a bit. I've got a black kp15 lower. It's not my main rifle, but if I'm going to have issues I may as well use this as an excuse to get another lower.
If you're willing to put in a ton of work and risk them, run a reliability test on most of your batch in various conditions and post a vid, it'd be pretty interesting. Serious torture tests from various twisted minds are the only way to identify all of the issues with a product for the next version to be better.
Lol..well you in a dead run flooped on it lol..have 2 in Maine in winter 2 years and no issues ..there light and fast but not what I say is a full duty rifle
Where I live the temps remain mostly above what is probably the danger zone for the polymer, but, much as I like my KP, I'll probably start saving up for a stripped lower at least. Ever since I bought it I've been wondering about whether it was the right choice, because as soon as I laid hands on it at my FFL I was a little concerned by the feel of the plastic. It didn't feel as solid as it looked in the videos I watched. With how things are going recently, I'd rather spend some more cash for piece of mind than have doubts about its durability.
I have an Extar EP9 9mm with polymer lower AND upper AND it's a blowback system. I would worry about the temperature extremes of leaving it a vehicle, mainly during the summer. I also don't grip it near the chamber. When I couldn't have a brace on it, I had visions of the bolt flying out of the end of the polymer buffer tube! Haha
You could probably break a standard aluminum lower like that too. I love my FDE kp15 lower honestly and it has been great. Haven’t subjected it to any hardcore abuse. I put a very lightweight lower rifle together. Good video though. I’ll have to take mine out more and see if it cracks
I like cheap guns but polymer lowers are just kinda lame in general. Even the 3D printing guys reenforce them with metal hose clamps, and if they are concerned about the strength of something that should say something. You can turn almost any solid material into an AR lower, the only question is if it is worth the time and effort for what you get.
8:50 Please please please save your knees. Don't risk injury by way of improper technique. There are plenty of videos showcasing proper drop to firing position techniques.
If I remember correctly there were a couple of kp-15s at the Finnish brutality which involved them jumping into ice water. I don’t know if your problem was caused by prolonged exposure or temp diff in a sunny car
Yall got greedy and paid the price, you wanted a lower so light it had no really durability when the original/standard lower is already super lightweight. Good on you for your honesty though.
@@an.appeal.to.heaven3810I was just about to ask about the headband too. Can you please show the writing up close ? I'd love to add something similar on my kit.
polymers get brittle with moisture absorption, like weedwhacker strings or 3d printer filament. another possible cause, and another thing they dont have to deal with in the southwest.
Over 2k though my kp15 lower over two years. I'm in tx with temps from 0-115°F, not an issue and it's been thrown around quite a bit. Running a 20" FN national match upper with a tuned gas system. i would be interested to see what ke arms says and what your gas system/buffer setup was
Why not make the upper part of the lower? Then if there is a crack on the stock both the stock, grip, lower and upper is damaged. Screw replacable parts, that would be good for the user.
In what world is 4 oz half a pound? The scale isn't reading lb/oz it's lbs decimal. 2.25lbs =/= 2lb 2oz The only thing it was compromised in was extreme cold which for most of the country is never an issue.
@@thinkharder9332 buddy, if you use a car-15 stock, the weight difference drops down to 2oz. dropping weight at the rear of the rifle doesn't even help ffs, it just unbalances things more. This isn't even mentioning how limiting fixed stocks are, if you wear any kind of gear with them
@@brad_1388_ A car-15 stock isn't even 2 oz lighter than a govt waffle stock, especially not if you throw the buttpad everyone has now on their CAR stock. 8-2 is 6 oz. dropping weight at the rear of the rifle doesn't even help ffs, -That's why you use it in tandem with a pencil or similar lw contour barrel. Lightweight builds don't mean a light stock then keeping an HBAR barrel. This isn't even mentioning how limiting fixed stocks are -Honestly overblown, though I'm over 6f. I don't collapse telescoping stocks after setting them. if you wear any kind of gear with them -Never mind the fact that fixed stocks have been used with gear for decades, to include the first rifle armor plates.
@@Floridaman855 (KE lower is 2.5 oz lighter than using the CAR stock on an aluminum lower) -It isn't. The difference in weight between a waffle stock and CAR stock is not that great. 2 oz between those, so it's 6oz heavier. If it has a butt pad, then there is no real difference between it and a waffle. This seems to be some truism being parroted. I can't find whatever source but I do know how much a bare bones car stock weights and how much a colt waffle one does. and you quickly reach a point of diminishing returns. -Compared to a govt profile a pencil barrel will not blow out any sooner as they are equally thin at the hottest point, but govt has the added issue of increased weight past the gas block journal so it has increased weight pulling down and blows out where as a pencil contour is designed to have the gas tube go before the barrel. As for the lower, again they show in this video it's a half lb compared to a standard lower. People love to say "muh car stock" but again the car stock is not that much lighter than a waffle stock.
Yep, aluminum receivers never crack. Oh wait ... Yea... Sometimes they do. Poly receivers are a neich product. When weight matters more than ability to be abused. They arent the end all solution for warfighting.
Well, weight reduction, reduction of small parts that tend to be the focal point of wear on a lot of receivers. I think you're giving up a lot to get those, but lowering cost, weight, and complexity is a good thing, even if the user may not receive all of the benefits. I'm picturing these as a cheap alternative to buying receiver, parts kit, buffer, stock, grip, etc and you get a lighter receiver too. Definitely not going to make sense for all shooters. Their "civil defense" variant is probably the best use of these. A cheap, lightweight, low complexity rifle. You're still probably better off with an A2 lower, as it is upgradeable if you want to change it.
Thought they were rock solid? I spray painted mine but have not subjected it to any adverse temperatures. I have a safe queen. Ser.# KM 7*** thought I had one of the first produced.
Interesting break on it, I like the polymer lower concept I haven't tried to stress that point on it, but this weakpoint was the whole reason why i went the the kp instead of the aluminum lowers because the buffer tube stock meeting point. That's nuts I've thrown my rifle down the mold flow engineers are dead wrong what KE should have just filled it all in and cnc drilled just enough material to get the internals in there...I haven't fell on my rifle, but dang the cerakote Temps could have had a detrimental effect on overall structural strength. I thought you said yall cerakoted them? Anyway these lowers are cheap I'll just buy more the possibility of the break happening is worth it, they're light enough I could carry a spare...I mean bro they weigh as much as a loaded mag
My KP-15 lower was ass. Needed half an hour to clean flashing out of the trigger well, trigger pin holes not in spec, magwell was out of spec (literally the molds didn't line up), and the "buffer tube" was a hollow that had ribbing to guide the spring and buffer that just kept sheering down to nearly nothing after less than 200rds. KE Arms CS told me to basically, "lol get fuckt nerd" because I had to X-acto knife the trigger well out to get the trigger installed, and due to that they wouldn't warranty my lower.
The thing is, there are different kind of stress a material can experience. It is 100% possible that simple physical force like dropping and smashing which apply bending and torque deformation, but it gets more fragile when actually fired, when a more global stress is applied, which then weakens the general durability, especially the grip area which i would guess is under the most ammount stress. If there is a way to fix it, it is to remove the monolith stock-receiver designer, and instead use some sort of detachable stock piece to massively reduce the lever-action strenght application on the receiver via bending. Other than that, buying plastics over metal you always should be aware that you will sacrifice durability for elasticity and weight almost always (unless its some scifi titanium alluminum alloy).
watching the lower break was like watching a persons shin break with the bone poking out
Little jb weld and ur all good😂
no amount of steel or hardener fixing that shit @@tiddybopper
Couple of blokes, hanging out and talking about each other's cracks.
Nothing to see here, move along.
After watching this video the other day I emailed KP Arms and asked them how cold the KP15 is rated for and this is what they replied "The material is rated to -40 degrees. People are actively using them in Finnland and Alaska." Whether the damage to yours is from the cold or just the weakness in that region of the lower, or both, it's something that I've never seen or heard of with an aluminum lower. Keep up the good work!
They should make one out of aluminum.
@@Floridaman855 AR15 is the lightest mass issue rifle why would you want it to weigh like a toy while sacrificing overall durability
@@Floridaman855 skibidi dop dop
once again original stoner wins epicly
I heckin :transheart: ultra light rifles!!!!
The RecoilTV british guy was one of the few investors in the production tooling for the KP15, but of course they never disclosed that! There was no way that "review" was ever going to have a negative outcome.
When did he invest into it, and how did you find out if it wasn't disclosed? Even then it wouldn't change the video itself showing it could handle the abuse that was tested. People invest in things because they think it will do well, if it was breaking and falling apart there'd be not reason to invest.
@arder9332 He was one of the principal investors listed in the holding company LLC that KE Arms used to raise the funds for the molds, so he invested his money before the product existed. It's in a thread on arfcom, which is where I found out about it and Russel Phagan (sinistralrifleman) also confirmed it on kiwifarms.
@@thinkharder9332 Sinistral confirmed it on kiwifarms, it's also posted on arfcom.
@@thinkharder9332 It could change the video because of selective editing. It's like the pharmaceutical company that funds a medical study that never gets published because the study shows bad attributes of their medication. They only publish the study that is done under very controlled conditions and shows the medicines positive attributes.
If a gun reviewer has no financial interest then they are more likely to not selectively edit. You can't be that naive.
@@timrobinson6573 So what conditions are being selected out? The failure described in this video is because of extreme cold temps, they were filming in the Arizona desert which is going to be the exact inverse, it's regularly warm, and even at night while cold it's usually above freezing.
Polymer lowers would be cool if they managed to lay thin aluminum wires throught like rebar in concrete but until then im not buying one
the issue isn't compressive loads tbh, its actually that they just don't use enough polymer, use the wrong thermopolymer and make it too hard in areas. If you touched up the upper to allow for an SR-25 style slant cut you could also get out a little more strength and not using proprietary push pins that would stop those holes being a weak point. But being made by a Satanist with zero material science quals doesn't help
There are fiberglass reinforced plastics. The Russiany use em for the knife sheethes with integrated bolt cutters on NR-2 and NRS-2 type knives. Extremely sturdy and they mold them into complex shapes. And milling can still be done for even tighter tolerances
Plenty of polymer lowers, RUclips print shoot repeat.
FRP is incredibly brittle and its not really solving the issue of "here's a huge weak spot inherent to the AR15's design". Yeah it'd be straight up better, but ass to implement into the process.
@@KrokLPThe KP15 is fiber-reinforced polymer.
I’ve always considered mine a “do everything except shtf” rifle.
Honestly there isn't a reason to NOT run an aluminum lower. It's lightweight enough as is and more modular...
I was looking at the KP15 lower just as a cheaper and lazy setup since it's cheap with all the components.
I definitely like my KP15 lower better than even my fancy ambi lowers like PWS mk1 mod2
Good video. I have one of these lowers that basically just lives in my car when I'm not shooting. I'll keep an eye out for any cracking during the colder months.
Wow polymer lowers really CRACK me up
There is a reason Hoffman Tactical built the Orca the way he did. I am not a fan of the original lower design he did but I'm curious how a well made Orca would stack up against a KP-15.
Funny you mentioned that, I am working on making some super high end polymers for his lowers! Im talking about polymers that can replace metal parts if you use equivalent material weight. Waiting on the machinery so I can start making fillament.
@@elmexicanoforliveYou can already do that with a printer with a heated chamber. Just use PC-PBT.
Lol..they last 1000 rds or so ..I have cav15 thats 20 plus years old ..cute though
@@sleigh4019why do you hate technological advancement?
@@NvrchFotia Although it is a pretty good chemical mixture it cannot replace metal parts. It is very tough since it is a PC blend but it does not have the heat resistance, chemical resistance or the strength required to be a ultra performance polymer. It is definitely and engineering polymer but it does not have the numbers to replace metal parts in all three. The polymers Im talking about can withstand 200C continuously, have no known chemical solvents under 200C and have some material properties within the range of 6061 aluminum!
Also missed opportunity to use Plastic Love in the intro
Why dont you just put the retaining pins back in the holes you took them out of to retain them instead of adding additional, identical holes in the stock
Well, in my case I had that exact same talk with whatshisface from KE: the pins have to be out to reassemble the rifle, and removing them, reinstalling them, and removing them again is quite annoying after having done it several times. I'd really rather have them retained in a different location until I'm ready to install. It's like pushing the pins back in on your lower after disassembling it every time and only opening them right before you use them. Their answer was to just put them inside the trapdoor buttstock.
I understand the argument. It is workable, but it is an annoyance that there is a well accepted solution that they refuse to do. Id even take their petulant "you guys are stupid but here it is" attitude they're likely to give just to have the capability I want. The HK pin holes just work well and have been the standard since the 50's for a reason. When you're working in the field, you need to retain the pins *before* the next step of disassbly to avoid losing them. It seems stupid but it's a big deal for critical small parts of a gun.
For that reason I'd never use my KP 15 build for a serious use rifle, though I love shooting the little thing.
@@GammaAKF I've had my rifle for 2 years and have not found it annoying.
If you had separate holes in the butt stock for them You would still have to take them out of their normal holes, put them in the separate holes, take them out and put them back in their normal holes. Just use your brain and think about the process and what you're saying.
@timrobinson6573 if you don't get it, then you don't get it. I'm not going to convince you via text.
Now this is some avengers level production value
Let's do a wood lower this time
I did train with the KP15 a couple of months in hopes to use it for serious duty. While mine did not crack, the takedown pins, the stock not being plate carrier friendly, trigger quirks etc was enough to move me to an Aero M4E1 lower. Still do not regret buying the KP15 since it is a cool concept..
The stock can be cut down a little. A company sells them pre cut. Don't know the name.
I run my adjustable stock only 2-3 clicks out, so the KP15 seems to be on the long side for me as well.
When you pivot or remove the upper from the lower you just put the takedown pin back into its hole.
@@timrobinson6573 imagine a magnet as an M-lok attachment. Just stick the pins to the magnet. Heh
It's almost like a 1 piece lower is a shit idea....
I can see KE guys getting pretty reasonably pissed lol, "it was cracked, you were going to send it back, and you kept using it until total failure?!"
If it was an aluminum lower and it cracked I don't think it would have been useable at all, and the fact that it continued to work with obvious damage says that it is pretty good as far as polymer receivers go, but you guys are 100% right: your use case and environment should dictate your weapon choice, and clearly the KP is not well suited for harsh winters.
I live in Northeastern Pennsylvania. It gets cold here. I'm glad you Gentlemen brought this to my attention. I have 2 of the kp15 lowers, one went back immediately due to the bolt catch didn't function properly and required swimming. Other than that I've had no issues. But those lowers are on firearms that do not see hard use, poor man's DMRs if you will. 😂 great video
sorry that happened dude, shit sucks hard
Good video gentlemen! Congrats on training and using your equipment realistically! I have a KP15 and live in the northern part of the country and have often wondered about the durability of the polymer in the cold. Prior to buying mine I talked to KE Arms (Russell personally in fact) and was told the Polymer should be good down to sub zero temperatures. From what I understand you guys were training in cool weather, but definitely not sub zero weather, when your lowers broke. It definitely gives me some concerns. Sadly it's too late in the year for me to test this myself by leaving the rifle outside overnight and then testing the lower. I could put it in the deep freezer though... As much as I hate to admit it I'm going to switch back to my heavier aluminum lower until I can answer that question. What is interesting is the A2 buttstock is polymer, and I've never seen one break despite having been in the infantry and seen hundreds of them used on IMT ranges. I think the area around the take down pin and safety is the weak point and has to be metal.
As a former grunt myself I totally agree with your critiques about the trap door and retaining the take down pins needing to be included. I also agree that KE should be open and honest about what climate the rifle is suitable for. I agree that everything has (or should have, there's lots of people trying to sell stuff to people just to make a buck) a use case scenario it is designed for, and I've often wondered if the guys at InRange and KE had all the relevant experience to develop something like this. Don't get me wrong, they are awesome shooters and I totally applaud their approach to realism with the way they compete, but I also feel their WWSD project could have benefited from letting some grunts do some IMT in the cold with it.
Really appreciate your video and if you ever want to get out and do some fieldcraft training hit me up, I love training with guys who get IT! badlandsfieldcraft.wordpress.com/2022/11/15/fieldcraft-class-description-and-gear-list/
I appreciate your input!!
Subscribed to you guys...this is the real deal in an actual review of a product. Keep the vids coming, your doing great!
I have some KP15s but they're not really my primary platforms. Good info. I'll admit I have not run mine much at all. I really got them as a low-cost cache platform. I do like how they look though. I think the big take away is that this should probably be a backup or training platform for the time being. Since it clearly still hasn't been perfected. I'd still buy one and recommend one. For the price you can't beat that you get an all-in-one sort of. What I mean by that is there is no need to purchase a different stock for it and you really don't even have to buy a sling mount, though I do. You can just run some 550 through it. I agree the trap door should be standard but it's also a nice added feature. Thanks for the vid. Let me reiterate for those in the gun "community" who suck at reading comprehension. I'd only recommend this as a secondary platform. Not as your primary. It's a descent budget entry item.
Were y'all's both black lowers or another color? I know adding dyes to polymer potentially changes the characteristics quite a bit. I've got a black kp15 lower. It's not my main rifle, but if I'm going to have issues I may as well use this as an excuse to get another lower.
Solid video and critique. Wraithworks lowers come stock with the butt plate. I would be interested to know what color you got originally.
Is there a simple way to reenforce it with tape or something prior to CW use that could potentially help prevent a crack or a break?
satanist ultra light rifle actually sucks?!?😳😳 who saw that coming!?
Why satanist
@krainex if you didn't know Karl from inrangetv is a satanist
@@krainexWWSD was sponsored by inrange who is a communist satanist
@@krainex Karl from inrange is a satanist
@@krainex People get all pissy that the guy from InRange is part of a satanic church.
Thank you for sharing.
I have a new frontier plastic lower that shows a lot of flex that is not in k e arms lower.
Interesting. I have 9 of these now. I’m curious if it is a complete design failure, batch issue, or a select few.
If you're willing to put in a ton of work and risk them, run a reliability test on most of your batch in various conditions and post a vid, it'd be pretty interesting. Serious torture tests from various twisted minds are the only way to identify all of the issues with a product for the next version to be better.
These videos bring me joy
I bought one to test in my local -20° winter. It just hasn't been cold enough this winter.
Thanks for the information, I like the kp 15 but this is disappointing to see.
You knew that would happen, we all knew it would happen. Why do we buy things like this?
Someone has to test them
We? What are you, french?
Cheap guns make me happy
Cause people are, you know, stupid.
@itsmightydusty1996 I mean, I think it was a known fact that KP15 lowers are unreliable.
0:18 bro HAD to let us know he had those A10 eyes 👁👁 😂
Lol..well you in a dead run flooped on it lol..have 2 in Maine in winter 2 years and no issues ..there light and fast but not what I say is a full duty rifle
Tells me mine are ok in maine ..not doing pushups in the snow or belly flopping on dead sprint on mine ..not yet anyways
@@sleigh4019some people just want stuff to fail like the p320 / m17/18 series and keep trying to make them fail
Got me kick and giggle and shi
Where I live the temps remain mostly above what is probably the danger zone for the polymer, but, much as I like my KP, I'll probably start saving up for a stripped lower at least. Ever since I bought it I've been wondering about whether it was the right choice, because as soon as I laid hands on it at my FFL I was a little concerned by the feel of the plastic. It didn't feel as solid as it looked in the videos I watched. With how things are going recently, I'd rather spend some more cash for piece of mind than have doubts about its durability.
I'd be interested in seeing if adding some metal reinforcement in that area would do.
Was just listening to this song. Such keyed song choice.
I’ve had a rifle blow up on me I could never run a polymer rifle it’s probably safe ,but you never know
I have an Extar EP9 9mm with polymer lower AND upper AND it's a blowback system. I would worry about the temperature extremes of leaving it a vehicle, mainly during the summer. I also don't grip it near the chamber. When I couldn't have a brace on it, I had visions of the bolt flying out of the end of the polymer buffer tube! Haha
You could probably break a standard aluminum lower like that too. I love my FDE kp15 lower honestly and it has been great. Haven’t subjected it to any hardcore abuse. I put a very lightweight lower rifle together. Good video though. I’ll have to take mine out more and see if it cracks
WHAT BRAND PANTS ARE THE BROWN & GREEN TIGER STRIPES?
Lmao, when i saw it in your videos lile a year ago i knew it was gonna happen eugine stoner perfected the lower with its original alloys
I like cheap guns but polymer lowers are just kinda lame in general. Even the 3D printing guys reenforce them with metal hose clamps, and if they are concerned about the strength of something that should say something.
You can turn almost any solid material into an AR lower, the only question is if it is worth the time and effort for what you get.
Damn, that's a shame; just got the premium psa/fn 20" upper and was looking into the kp lower. Guess I'll just do a bushmaster xm15 lower build.
larping is over.. 😔
8:50 Please please please save your knees. Don't risk injury by way of improper technique.
There are plenty of videos showcasing proper drop to firing position techniques.
gatekeep or lose it 😨
Is there a connection between this and all the US made AUG stocks cracking ?
If I remember correctly there were a couple of kp-15s at the Finnish brutality which involved them jumping into ice water. I don’t know if your problem was caused by prolonged exposure or temp diff in a sunny car
Yall got greedy and paid the price, you wanted a lower so light it had no really durability when the original/standard lower is already super lightweight. Good on you for your honesty though.
weight savings are great, but you don't reduce weight without paying for it somewhere else.
Quality of videos are stepping up, and hold on is that the guy who made "How to Boog Larp"
wow,i wonder if the ati omni hybrid maxx polymer upper and lower is actually tougher. its got steel inserts on the buffer tube and barrel nut area.
While I can pick up a decent quality aluminum lower, like a Wilson Combat, for $40, I'll never go Polymer. 🤠
A Wilson Combat.marked lower for $40....
Link or bs.
@@justinbandy2610Anderson doesn’t even make lowers for $40 anymore… lmao
@@WeencieRants that's my point.
@@justinbandy2610 I’m agreeing with you dog. This guy a clown. You can barely get a WC magazine for $40.
@@WeencieRants my bad. Just skimmed it.
Where did you get that headband my brother in Christ?
I made it
@@an.appeal.to.heaven3810 how did you make it
@@an.appeal.to.heaven3810I was just about to ask about the headband too. Can you please show the writing up close ? I'd love to add something similar on my kit.
I don't understand why it's so difficult to make an affordable and durable polymer or similar material for AR lowers.
I'm in Texas so I'll keep mine but I would have liked to seen this video 6 months ago lol
Got 3 and have had no problems.
What type of tigerstripe pants at 8:26?
what pants are those with the integrated kneepads? are they arktis?
crye g3 cut has integrated kneepads
Man, I was so close to buying one of these just a couple months back.
I dodged a bullet on this one.
Well spoken
polymers get brittle with moisture absorption, like weedwhacker strings or 3d printer filament. another possible cause, and another thing they dont have to deal with in the southwest.
Insert shocked pikachu
Over 2k though my kp15 lower over two years. I'm in tx with temps from 0-115°F, not an issue and it's been thrown around quite a bit. Running a 20" FN national match upper with a tuned gas system. i would be interested to see what ke arms says and what your gas system/buffer setup was
Why not make the upper part of the lower? Then if there is a crack on the stock both the stock, grip, lower and upper is damaged. Screw replacable parts, that would be good for the user.
you're describing the G36
Looks like it doesn’t like the cold…
Why buy any lowers? I just print em up 👻
Good to know, will not buy one of these then
Thanks for the info y'all :3
where did you got the headband?
He made it himself.
Thanks for the review. Your contribution to the community is very much appreciated.
Ooh a heckin 4 ounce weight savings!
Better compromise the integrity of the most important part of my rifle!!!
Lmao this
In what world is 4 oz half a pound? The scale isn't reading lb/oz it's lbs decimal. 2.25lbs =/= 2lb 2oz
The only thing it was compromised in was extreme cold which for most of the country is never an issue.
@@thinkharder9332 buddy, if you use a car-15 stock, the weight difference drops down to 2oz. dropping weight at the rear of the rifle doesn't even help ffs, it just unbalances things more.
This isn't even mentioning how limiting fixed stocks are, if you wear any kind of gear with them
@@brad_1388_ A car-15 stock isn't even 2 oz lighter than a govt waffle stock, especially not if you throw the buttpad everyone has now on their CAR stock. 8-2 is 6 oz.
dropping weight at the rear of the rifle doesn't even help ffs,
-That's why you use it in tandem with a pencil or similar lw contour barrel. Lightweight builds don't mean a light stock then keeping an HBAR barrel.
This isn't even mentioning how limiting fixed stocks are
-Honestly overblown, though I'm over 6f. I don't collapse telescoping stocks after setting them.
if you wear any kind of gear with them
-Never mind the fact that fixed stocks have been used with gear for decades, to include the first rifle armor plates.
@@Floridaman855 (KE lower is 2.5 oz lighter than using the CAR stock on an aluminum lower)
-It isn't. The difference in weight between a waffle stock and CAR stock is not that great. 2 oz between those, so it's 6oz heavier. If it has a butt pad, then there is no real difference between it and a waffle.
This seems to be some truism being parroted. I can't find whatever source but I do know how much a bare bones car stock weights and how much a colt waffle one does.
and you quickly reach a point of diminishing returns.
-Compared to a govt profile a pencil barrel will not blow out any sooner as they are equally thin at the hottest point, but govt has the added issue of increased weight past the gas block journal so it has increased weight pulling down and blows out where as a pencil contour is designed to have the gas tube go before the barrel.
As for the lower, again they show in this video it's a half lb compared to a standard lower. People love to say "muh car stock" but again the car stock is not that much lighter than a waffle stock.
Yep, aluminum receivers never crack. Oh wait ... Yea... Sometimes they do. Poly receivers are a neich product. When weight matters more than ability to be abused. They arent the end all solution for warfighting.
It’s been 3 weeks Mr Appeal…
Remember when we used to make stocks outta wood. I miss those days. Lol
Real life! Cheers to not editing that jazz out! 🇺🇸🤘#ARJunkie #2ARights #RepealNFA
But- but Cinnabon Rifleman said it would work this time
still better than mil-spec m4 stocks.
CRY ABOUT IT!!!!
wraithworks warp 15 comes with the trap door
Lot of cope for a shitty lower in these comments.
i want an aluminum kp15
Subbed instantly because of Anri
I'm Surprised that they haven't had any failures at Finish brutality.
Incredibly based headband ☦
What are you even accomplishing with a polymer lower? Negligible weight reduction?
Depends if you think half a lb is negligible.
Well, weight reduction, reduction of small parts that tend to be the focal point of wear on a lot of receivers. I think you're giving up a lot to get those, but lowering cost, weight, and complexity is a good thing, even if the user may not receive all of the benefits.
I'm picturing these as a cheap alternative to buying receiver, parts kit, buffer, stock, grip, etc and you get a lighter receiver too. Definitely not going to make sense for all shooters. Their "civil defense" variant is probably the best use of these. A cheap, lightweight, low complexity rifle. You're still probably better off with an A2 lower, as it is upgradeable if you want to change it.
I thought it would be good for a light weight hunting rifle, but I don't hunt.
Thought they were rock solid?
I spray painted mine but have not subjected it to any adverse temperatures.
I have a safe queen.
Ser.# KM 7*** thought I had one of the first produced.
Interesting break on it, I like the polymer lower concept I haven't tried to stress that point on it, but this weakpoint was the whole reason why i went the the kp instead of the aluminum lowers because the buffer tube stock meeting point. That's nuts I've thrown my rifle down the mold flow engineers are dead wrong what KE should have just filled it all in and cnc drilled just enough material to get the internals in there...I haven't fell on my rifle, but dang the cerakote Temps could have had a detrimental effect on overall structural strength. I thought you said yall cerakoted them? Anyway these lowers are cheap I'll just buy more the possibility of the break happening is worth it, they're light enough I could carry a spare...I mean bro they weigh as much as a loaded mag
My KP-15 lower was ass. Needed half an hour to clean flashing out of the trigger well, trigger pin holes not in spec, magwell was out of spec (literally the molds didn't line up), and the "buffer tube" was a hollow that had ribbing to guide the spring and buffer that just kept sheering down to nearly nothing after less than 200rds.
KE Arms CS told me to basically, "lol get fuckt nerd" because I had to X-acto knife the trigger well out to get the trigger installed, and due to that they wouldn't warranty my lower.
A1 Content
The thing is, there are different kind of stress a material can experience. It is 100% possible that simple physical force like dropping and smashing which apply bending and torque deformation, but it gets more fragile when actually fired, when a more global stress is applied, which then weakens the general durability, especially the grip area which i would guess is under the most ammount stress.
If there is a way to fix it, it is to remove the monolith stock-receiver designer, and instead use some sort of detachable stock piece to massively reduce the lever-action strenght application on the receiver via bending.
Other than that, buying plastics over metal you always should be aware that you will sacrifice durability for elasticity and weight almost always (unless its some scifi titanium alluminum alloy).
Has anyone sent this vid to Russell Phagen?
Wass up
You need to get a Russian Leaf suit
Cerakote? The hell is that?
It's baked on paint, like a factory paint job.
@@xc8487doesn’t sound like rustoleum to me
@@schizosaint777 Rust-Oleum is just spray paint, no baking.
Why do you guys leave them in your cars ? That’s kind of dumb idea.
the hell did you do to it lmao
Him and scytoxil got a bit Freaky while testing the new bean MRE
@@Nb_Fz S tier reference