It wasn't luck Dale, it was your patient and methodical approach that won the day. M5x0.8 is a common one, especially for instruments or electronic equipment. If using a metric drill set, the tapping size is major diameter minus pitch. So 4.2mm for your M5 jet. Thanks for sharing the success my friend. Dean in Oxfordshire, UK.
Thanks Dean, dont own any metric drill bits. My holes may be a bit over or under, still fiddling around with fractions here. I wish the US had changed a long time ago. Metric is simpler, however its hard to teach an old dog new tricks. So the confusion continues.
Hey Dean I have a metric question for you. The internal rotor that is going on the Yamaha MX is a 19mm x 1.50. I cant seem to find a puller for it. I also cant find any minor or major dimentions . The machinery handbook skips right over 19mm. I have turned one out on the lathe but I just took a stab at it since I could not find any info. You got any info on that size.
@@montana2strokeracer Hey Dale, it's definitely an unusual one, the standard metric threads jump from M18 to M20 but the system is flexible and does allow variation. It's good that your lathe will cut the pitch. There is an M19x1.5 in Swiss Standard Metric threads but largely obsolete and unused these days. I'll send you an email with more detail. We also still use a mixture of both systems here, buying our fuel in litres and driving in miles and miles-per-hour. Mostly we are metric though. In engineering, it pays to be able to use both systems as British made products were still Imperial into the 1970s. Imperial...You have the choice of BSW, BSF, BA, BSP, BSC, BSCycle, Gas thread, Admiralty, ........ad infinitum! Take care my friend, Dean.
I also have a little shop here in Seesen, Germany, restoring 2-stroke dirt bikes of the 70s. Just finished a 76 DT250 and a 76 TS250. I am also working on AMF SX models and Zündapp. All of your videos are helpfull and I still like to learn more although I am 72 years old now......
Glad to hear you are restoring these old bikes. Got to save as many as we can. Wow Zundapp, that's a bike I haven't heard of in a while. There were many of them back in the early 70s here in the states. They handled better than the Jap bikes did then. If memory serves me, those had the earls type front end (leading link)
My gosh, you have been answering questions that I have been asking for years. No one has been as concise as you, hats off to you sir! I wish you and your family good health!
That is awesome, so glad to hear this video has helped you. Hope you will come back for some more video enjoyment. I don't work with a lot of Kawasaki's, but I am just finishing up a F7, have a whole playlist on it. Soon a F5 will be coming into the shop, so that may interest you. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop!
You, sir, are doing the Lord's work. I halfway considered doing this on a Mikuni VM series I acquired that had the pilot jet essentially cemented in place with oxidation/corrosion. You inspired me to try, and it worked. I've managed to save this carburetor (and ~$30-40). Thanks for your video.
Thank you, sir, not sure if it's the Lord's work or not, but if it kept you from cussing, I will take that as a win for the Lord. I do know the feeling though, every time I get a new bike or carb, I worry till that jet pops out of there. I hope I never have to do it again. Glad it worked for you. Thanks for taking the time to watch the channel.
@@montana2strokeracer I'm glad I found it. I'm new to motorcycles, got to them by way of go karts & ATVs, but videos like this apply universally. Thanks again!
Did Like he said starting out with small drill bit gradually increasing size. The only difference is that I used Left hand drill bits hoping that I would get pilot jet to dislodge. That is what happened! Made things a lot simpler!
Thanks Paul, yes that is the optimum way to do it for sure, this one was not coming out, to drill it was the only way. Glad you got yours out. I have always hated the alternative.... junking the carb.
@@montana2strokeracer @pauldelay6725 40 minutes ago I bought a 1977 Yamaha XS750-2D that sat for 35 years. Took apart the 3 Mikuni carbs and all 3 main jets were frozen. Used penetrating oil hoping that would work, nope! The left hand drilling worked on all 3. A piece of cake. @montana2strokeracer
Thank you! Even if I get a new after market carburator for $30 I will still chip away at this old one as a project. It is time consuming but I take it as a challenge. Thanks for sharing yours! Really helpful.
Your welcome, I enjoy a good challenge too, besides that I just cant throw away good parts, stay with something long enough and you will figure it out. Thanks for following the channel
I am dealing with this on a John Deere duplex carb right now and this was the same thought I had but was nervous to do it. Thanks for letting me know it will work so well!
Hi David, I don't envy you having to mess with that, I sweat it every time I have to deal with one. Not knowing if you are going to ruin a good carburetor or not. So far, I have done two and both worked out fine. So just be careful, and getter done. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
This helped me! however, I don't have the same patience, or a tap & die set! In the end, (after lots of soaking in carb cleaner & WD40) I got mine out by drilling a slightly larger hole, but not very deep... then, with careful violence, I hammered a small, hardened steel, Philips head screwdriver down there! it worked & I was able to unscrew it using the Philips head.
Thank you for following the channel, I hope the video has been some help, it had always been in the back of my mind when tearing into these old carbs, then it happened. It took some time, but I won the battle and I bet you do to.
I just went through this on my '75 TS 250 carb. I used lefthand drill bits hoping it would catch and come out. I didn't get it drilled perfectly center. 😕 used a tiny piece of Teflon tape to seal the the slightly damaged threads.
Flatten off the tip of the screwdriver so its parallel with the groove in jet so its snug and not tapered like a typical screwdriver and choose a screwdriver that will turn the full width off the jet, A couple of lite taps to shock threads then wd40 if not turning and take it easy, will reduce this problem from happening.
You are right Sam, the perfect fit screwdriver is the key for sure. But not much you can do about the previous work done. Just hope for the best! Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Hi Dale, I have a 1993 Suzi VX800. very similar to the VS800 or Intruders of the 90s. Same issue. I drilled most of it out with success but need to get the rest of the threads out. Is the tap size 5 mm - 0.80 tap. Looking for a set now. I didn't get so lucky and the bottom half didnt fall out but I am hoping that tapping the threads out will loosen that bottom bit as well. Thanks for your help.
Hi there, man this has always worried me, and does to this day. You just never know if those are going to come out or not. Yes, the tap size is m5 x .80. It is a pretty common size you shouldn't have any problems finding one. Just go slow I bet you get it out just fine. Good luck brother.
time to invest in set of left hand drill bits, i dont remember where i got them, its a set of 5 bits, smallest is 1/8 to largest 3/8 and 3 inbetween, work great in drill, chuck up run in reverse , so far i have always gotten lucky when i've used them, bit gets a good bite and screw backs right out....how bout main jet on mikuni carb, that emulsion tube, how hard is it to get out? is it necessary to remove ? carb had straight varnish in it, petcock on tank leaked fuel into carb while it sat for 5yrs or more. i can see threw it, not sure bout air holes in sides, will fresh gas eventually clear holes out? what do you think, i dont want to invest in bucket carb cleaner, as i dont have but one carb right now, otherwise i wud. thanx
Thanks Jon, yes, I have a set of left-hand bits, I use them quite often. This has been quite a while since I did this video, but I think I couldn't use them because the jet was too small for the smallest one to bite. Yes, I have used them successfully over the years. Thanks for hanging out with me in the shop.
I tried to do a rebuild on a carb got everything out and cleaned except that same jet I tore the flat head part up pretty good and put it all back together so after watching this I'm thinking it's not gonna work the way it should?
Hi Bill, like I said, I have worried about this for a long time, but this was the first time I had to deal with it. I just didnt want to junk the carb. It turned out to be not as bad of job as I thought. That being said, I would not wish it on anyone. Im just positive you can get it out if you try. Thanks for following along.
I have never had success with the Easy-Out. You couldn't just sharpened a flat screwdriver, insert it, tab it a couple of times to create new slot in the key then back it out?
Yes, you could do that, I have had some luck with whatever I could get in there, this just happened to work in this case, I didn't use any form of easy out to get it removed, I simply drilled out the jet.
It wasn't luck Dale, it was your patient and methodical approach that won the day.
M5x0.8 is a common one, especially for instruments or electronic equipment.
If using a metric drill set, the tapping size is major diameter minus pitch. So 4.2mm for your M5 jet.
Thanks for sharing the success my friend.
Dean in Oxfordshire, UK.
Thanks Dean, dont own any metric drill bits. My holes may be a bit over or under, still fiddling around with fractions here. I wish the US had changed a long time ago. Metric is simpler, however its hard to teach an old dog new tricks. So the confusion continues.
Hey Dean I have a metric question for you. The internal rotor that is going on the Yamaha MX is a 19mm x 1.50. I cant seem to find a puller for it. I also cant find any minor or major dimentions . The machinery handbook skips right over 19mm. I have turned one out on the lathe but I just took a stab at it since I could not find any info. You got any info on that size.
@@montana2strokeracer Hey Dale, it's definitely an unusual one, the standard metric threads jump from M18 to M20 but the system is flexible and does allow variation. It's good that your lathe will cut the pitch. There is an M19x1.5 in Swiss Standard Metric threads but largely obsolete and unused these days. I'll send you an email with more detail.
We also still use a mixture of both systems here, buying our fuel in litres and driving in miles and miles-per-hour. Mostly we are metric though. In engineering, it pays to be able to use both systems as British made products were still Imperial into the 1970s.
Imperial...You have the choice of BSW, BSF, BA, BSP, BSC, BSCycle, Gas thread, Admiralty, ........ad infinitum!
Take care my friend,
Dean.
I also have a little shop here in Seesen, Germany, restoring 2-stroke dirt bikes of the 70s. Just finished a 76 DT250 and a 76 TS250. I am also working on AMF SX models and Zündapp. All of your videos are helpfull and I still like to learn more although I am 72 years old now......
Glad to hear you are restoring these old bikes. Got to save as many as we can. Wow Zundapp, that's a bike I haven't heard of in a while. There were many of them back in the early 70s here in the states. They handled better than the Jap bikes did then. If memory serves me, those had the earls type front end (leading link)
My gosh, you have been answering questions that I have been asking for years. No one has been as concise as you, hats off to you sir! I wish you and your family good health!
Thank you for the kind words, and thanks for following the channel.
Great video ! It saved my 73 Kawasaki F11 Mikuni ! I did it the same way you discribed. Thank you !!!!!
That is awesome, so glad to hear this video has helped you. Hope you will come back for some more video enjoyment. I don't work with a lot of Kawasaki's, but I am just finishing up a F7, have a whole playlist on it. Soon a F5 will be coming into the shop, so that may interest you. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop!
You, sir, are doing the Lord's work.
I halfway considered doing this on a Mikuni VM series I acquired that had the pilot jet essentially cemented in place with oxidation/corrosion.
You inspired me to try, and it worked. I've managed to save this carburetor (and ~$30-40). Thanks for your video.
Thank you, sir, not sure if it's the Lord's work or not, but if it kept you from cussing, I will take that as a win for the Lord. I do know the feeling though, every time I get a new bike or carb, I worry till that jet pops out of there. I hope I never have to do it again. Glad it worked for you. Thanks for taking the time to watch the channel.
@@montana2strokeracer I'm glad I found it. I'm new to motorcycles, got to them by way of go karts & ATVs, but videos like this apply universally. Thanks again!
Great video, Dale. I've found those screw extractors (Ezy-Outs) are so easy to snap.
Cheers.
Yes sir, I totally agree with you, I use extractors as a last resort, when you break them you are done.
I broke mine yesterday trying to get a jet out... 😢
Did Like he said starting out with small drill bit gradually increasing size. The only difference is that I used Left hand drill bits hoping that I would get pilot jet to dislodge. That is what happened! Made things a lot simpler!
Thanks Paul, yes that is the optimum way to do it for sure, this one was not coming out, to drill it was the only way. Glad you got yours out. I have always hated the alternative.... junking the carb.
@@montana2strokeracer
@pauldelay6725
40 minutes ago
I bought a 1977 Yamaha XS750-2D that sat for 35 years. Took apart the 3 Mikuni carbs and all 3 main jets were frozen. Used penetrating oil hoping that would work, nope! The left hand drilling worked on all 3. A piece of cake. @montana2strokeracer
Thank you! Even if I get a new after market carburator for $30 I will still chip away at this old one as a project. It is time consuming but I take it as a challenge. Thanks for sharing yours! Really helpful.
Your welcome, I enjoy a good challenge too, besides that I just cant throw away good parts, stay with something long enough and you will figure it out. Thanks for following the channel
I am dealing with this on a John Deere duplex carb right now and this was the same thought I had but was nervous to do it. Thanks for letting me know it will work so well!
Hi David, I don't envy you having to mess with that, I sweat it every time I have to deal with one. Not knowing if you are going to ruin a good carburetor or not. So far, I have done two and both worked out fine. So just be careful, and getter done. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Amazing how questions and issues I've seen arise over the years, but stubbornly remain unsolved are secret no more thanks to Dale!
Learning a lot myself. Keeps the mind sharp!
This helped me!
however, I don't have the same patience, or a tap & die set!
In the end, (after lots of soaking in carb cleaner & WD40) I got mine out by drilling a slightly larger hole, but not very deep... then, with careful violence, I hammered a small, hardened steel, Philips head screwdriver down there!
it worked & I was able to unscrew it using the Philips head.
Awesome Jason, you got it out that's the main goal.
very useful video this is probably the easiest jet to strip out.
No doubt the easiest one to strip, most folks think they have to torque it to 1000 ft lbs.
nice job dale well done never easy jobs like that
Thanks Mark, wasnt sure if it would work.
I open my tm30 and that my issue! Thank u man, legend😎
Thank you for following the channel, I hope the video has been some help, it had always been in the back of my mind when tearing into these old carbs, then it happened. It took some time, but I won the battle and I bet you do to.
I just went through this on my '75 TS 250 carb. I used lefthand drill bits hoping it would catch and come out. I didn't get it drilled perfectly center. 😕 used a tiny piece of Teflon tape to seal the the slightly damaged threads.
At least you saved the carb casting....thats the big thing. Sounds like you have got a good repair. Nice going. Hey thanks for following the channel.
The ease outs work on a lot of things. Glad it worked out that you were able to get it out.
Yeah they are quite useful. Glad it came out too, just hate throwing a carb body away like that.
I hope I remember this video when I need to lol. Thanks Dale!
Hope it never happens to you, but if fate happens along, give it a try. Thanks for following the channel
Flatten off the tip of the screwdriver so its parallel with the groove in jet so its snug and not tapered like a typical screwdriver and choose a screwdriver that will turn the full width off the jet, A couple of lite taps to shock threads then wd40 if not turning and take it easy, will reduce this problem from happening.
You are right Sam, the perfect fit screwdriver is the key for sure. But not much you can do about the previous work done. Just hope for the best! Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Hi Dale, I have a 1993 Suzi VX800. very similar to the VS800 or Intruders of the 90s. Same issue. I drilled most of it out with success but need to get the rest of the threads out. Is the tap size 5 mm - 0.80 tap. Looking for a set now. I didn't get so lucky and the bottom half didnt fall out but I am hoping that tapping the threads out will loosen that bottom bit as well. Thanks for your help.
Hi there, man this has always worried me, and does to this day. You just never know if those are going to come out or not. Yes, the tap size is m5 x .80. It is a pretty common size you shouldn't have any problems finding one. Just go slow I bet you get it out just fine. Good luck brother.
Good stuff Dale.
Thanks brother, was wondering about you, had not heard anything in a while. Hope all is good!
Try left hand drill bit sized for easy out first. It can spin it out
That is sure worth a try, that is for sure. Thank you.
time to invest in set of left hand drill bits, i dont remember where i got them, its a set of 5 bits, smallest is 1/8 to largest 3/8 and 3 inbetween, work great in drill, chuck up run in reverse , so far i have always gotten lucky when i've used them, bit gets a good bite and screw backs right out....how bout main jet on mikuni carb, that emulsion tube, how hard is it to get out? is it necessary to remove ? carb had straight varnish in it, petcock on tank leaked fuel into carb while it sat for 5yrs or more. i can see threw it, not sure bout air holes in sides, will fresh gas eventually clear holes out? what do you think, i dont want to invest in bucket carb cleaner, as i dont have but one carb right now, otherwise i wud. thanx
Thanks Jon, yes, I have a set of left-hand bits, I use them quite often. This has been quite a while since I did this video, but I think I couldn't use them because the jet was too small for the smallest one to bite. Yes, I have used them successfully over the years. Thanks for hanging out with me in the shop.
I tried to do a rebuild on a carb got everything out and cleaned except that same jet I tore the flat head part up pretty good and put it all back together so after watching this I'm thinking it's not gonna work the way it should?
Hi Bill, like I said, I have worried about this for a long time, but this was the first time I had to deal with it. I just didnt want to junk the carb. It turned out to be not as bad of job as I thought. That being said, I would not wish it on anyone. Im just positive you can get it out if you try. Thanks for following along.
Will a broken screw head on the pilot jet effect performance?
I don't think so, as long as the orifice is clear, it should be fine.
I have never had success with the Easy-Out. You couldn't just sharpened a flat screwdriver, insert it, tab it a couple of times to create new slot in the key then back it out?
Yes, you could do that, I have had some luck with whatever I could get in there, this just happened to work in this case, I didn't use any form of easy out to get it removed, I simply drilled out the jet.
frank here!
I so glad
My pilot jet casting broke on my number 3 carb for a suzuki 4 cly arghhhh
Oh man, that sucks.... hope you can get it out without too much effort.
Zzzzzzzzz
Video put me to sleep. Dude just get to the point.
Glad I could help. Thanks for stopping by.