Does Luke need to buy Lee a new Drill… Let us know below 😅 Make sure you’re subscribed to our Channel with Notifications on - bit.ly/3nqFpXp-ArtisanElectrics
Use a 4inch hole saw with the 4" just covering the joist into the next compartment. Then drill the appropriate sized cable hole through the joist at an angle or a slim angle drill and short bit. After cable passing cut a short length of 50 x 25 timber wider than the 4 inch hole and screw to the ceiling at either end replace the circular cut out plasterboard, using the drills central hole use 1 screw to fasten into the 50 x 25 batten . Reseal the ceiling by using polifiller and a rubber squeegee and wet sponge. With care almost invisible .
I use rare earth magnets (about the size of 1p's) to find the joists, they will stick to the screws that hold the boards up, then a decent sized hole saw to span the joists, beauty of it being they can go back up as a perfect patch and just fill the edges.
As a builder I’d cut 2” away from the cornice, pull down the ceiling, rewire then let a plasterer board the new ceiling and skim up to the coving. Cut the lights out once it’s painted. Will be a ball ache patching in a painting around downlights x 8 in that small area!
Im an electrician here in Gainesville, Florida and we use recessed “wafer” lights. They are thin enough to fit underneath the truss and still be flush with the drywall. They are awesome
Those wafer lights glare like crazy though, because the SMDs are mounted sideways. In this situation I'd run fewer and/or odd number of luminaries with slightly different spacing..they're not that noticeable in narrow long space like hallway
Why not hole saw next to each joist which gives you the perfect circular cut out to fill the hole back in. Drill through the joist and repair is the same process, but cutting the hole is much faster to begin with.
as an electrician working in Canada and US we use wafer downlights, about the thickness of drywall, and no longer worry about downlights hitting structure behind the drywall. are those a thing in the UK? I know we use split phase so we only ever have 120V at the fixture, maybe the 240V you use requires more space in enclosures (I really have no idea about that though)
That's a lot of downlights for that area lol. I'm not in the trade but in this situation where the joists are proving to be a pain for alignment that a solution could be to just ask the customer to have less downlights so you can have longer distances between each one?
Just fitted 87 downlights in a house. Measure first and establish the joists. Do the calc and decide how many lights will work. Cool or warm? Keep spare DL & lamps on the van,and add a dimmer. Best not expose joists so that you have something to attach plasterboard to. Thx for the video
Another great video! Will there be an update on the whole structural wood controversy? what has the surveyor said? I'm sure I'm not the only one that "wood" like to hear the rest of the story. Keep on doing a great job guys!
I've done the same thing with my drill and those bits. Especially when extended. The drill is just a little underpowered for the task. Grab a strap wrench and wrap it around the chuck. It'll come loose! But you can easily replace the chuck if it needs it without throwing away the whole drill.
You could probably replace the Chuck on the drill however you’d have to destructively remove parts of it to get it off as the reverse thread screw is usually in the center.
Rather than making access holes like that, do a 5" hole saw works great and fits back perfectly. Also big enough to get a driver in but not too big for all the mess
when I mark out down lights mark the centre of the run and work backwards. if that double joist is centre put the light next to it and then work back. Sucks when the centre of a hall or landing hits a joist or truss.
That button on the back of the van door is probably an electronic emergency release if it closes and you are stuck in there. The side doors will most likely have either the same or mechanical ones.
seems like there ought to be a spreadsheet to work out the downlight spacings. put in the joist spacings, and the width of joists and the distance from the wall. then populate the number of downlights and it will show the distance from the walls and the spacing which avoids all the joists.
Had a makita chuck lock before. decent pair of grips around it, drill in first gear and blip the trigger full send on-off-on-off........ It should give.... well, mine did. good luck
What a hard days work, all that filming and having to fit in the 'electrical' work as well. Never mind lads it looks like the customer is paying full whack for both. I really hope you had permission before sitting at their table for lunch and messing about with their keyboard. Professional conduct is a must when working in someones home.
Apply diversity to the oven and hob and your probably find it's a non issue for a single 6mm supply and a 32amp ocpd, I would get rid of that junction box and put a dual appliance outlet on it, job done.
That’s ok if the cables are not fixed on the appliances. Had one yesterday where the 2.7kw oven was wired into a JB with the hob on a 32a mcb. The flex was only 1.5 mm on the oven.
@@matthewwalley2412 i had one of these 10 year old ovens where i was told a 20 amp mcb max or a 13 amp fused down supply was to be used so i duly obliged with the 20 amp mcb as did not want to add to the kitchen ring given it was over 2kw. What was your fix ?
@@alexg113 my thoughts, appendix 15 suggests any load over 2kw should have it’s own radial circuit. If the oven has a fan it’s not a purely resistive load therefore overload cannot be omitted and the iz >= in and not ib.
Guys , i only watched 1:45 and had to stop,, been there before, my tip - get 114mm holesaw and drill holes with dade, drill between joist and you will be able to make holes to joist from each side,, of course easy to repair plasterboard back as you wont have any nails there , so circles will be perfect,, I hope it will help to you or any other guys out there
One or two thrown out along the way. Would have thought all the laser levels would've helped! I HATE doing straight runs off single lights though, just takes one to make them look off.
Regarding the Cooker and Hob situation, just read Table A1 of the Onsite guide page 122. You'll be surprised how far you can go with domestic cooking diversity.
Great installation! Downlights look great! Don’t know if the owners plan to re-do the wooden floor, if not, I would protect the floor with a protective cover of some sort, since all the parts and pieces from the ceiling add scratches to the floor 😉 Otherwise perfect job and I really want to see more 😍‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️ Also nice to see how Luke is getting into moderation of the videos more and more, great video!
Could you not have got in the floor above? I've seen you do a couple of these spot light jobs where you erm, Muller the ceilings, is it too hard work to lift carpets and flooring above? You got the job done though, not being in possession of the full facts of the construction, excuse me if I have got this wrong, Im looking at from a plumbers perspective. great vids guys
wouldnt it be bether to take the whole strip out instead of making small holes to pull the cables? easier for the drywaller to put a whole strip back instead of small ones
Just some feedback, personal opinion, can you reduce the slow motion shots its turning into a dating site for electricians and focus on the electrical work.
@@alexg113 you just make a small hole and either side of a joist and go under or drill through or sink into the joist alot less damage just needs a little filler job done, use and rod in to the hole push till it hits next joist then take out mark on ceiling and then repeat
@@alexg113 yeah its allowed there's no regs on floor voids or ceilings as such if have a floor that can't come up or client doesn't want up you have to notch. What else can you do in an existing install or house which isn't being rewired 🤷♂️
Does Luke need to buy Lee a new Drill… Let us know below 😅 Make sure you’re subscribed to our Channel with Notifications on - bit.ly/3nqFpXp-ArtisanElectrics
Think you should get him a new one Jorden lol 😂
No Jordan, you should!!! 😁😳😳
Employer should be buying power tools.
HOLES IN CEILINGS
Use a 4inch hole saw with the 4" just covering the joist into the next compartment. Then drill the appropriate sized cable hole through the joist at an angle or a slim angle drill and short bit. After cable passing cut a short length of 50 x 25 timber wider than the 4 inch hole and screw to the ceiling at either end replace the circular cut out plasterboard, using the drills central hole use 1 screw to fasten into the 50 x 25 batten . Reseal the ceiling by using polifiller and a rubber squeegee and wet sponge. With care almost invisible .
I use rare earth magnets (about the size of 1p's) to find the joists, they will stick to the screws that hold the boards up, then a decent sized hole saw to span the joists, beauty of it being they can go back up as a perfect patch and just fill the edges.
As a builder I’d cut 2” away from the cornice, pull down the ceiling, rewire then let a plasterer board the new ceiling and skim up to the coving. Cut the lights out once it’s painted. Will be a ball ache patching in a painting around downlights x 8 in that small area!
Yes, done exactly that recently 👏
Im an electrician here in Gainesville, Florida and we use recessed “wafer” lights. They are thin enough to fit underneath the truss and still be flush with the drywall. They are awesome
Those wafer lights glare like crazy though, because the SMDs are mounted sideways. In this situation I'd run fewer and/or odd number of luminaries with slightly different spacing..they're not that noticeable in narrow long space like hallway
That 3rd downlight is out, for that many lights would be better to cut a slot and do aluminium channel and led tape
Dont know if its just me but a couple of them look pissed at 17:00
Why not hole saw next to each joist which gives you the perfect circular cut out to fill the hole back in. Drill through the joist and repair is the same process, but cutting the hole is much faster to begin with.
We do this, 4” cutter and can get drill up enough to drill joist either side 👌
as an electrician working in Canada and US we use wafer downlights, about the thickness of drywall, and no longer worry about downlights hitting structure behind the drywall. are those a thing in the UK? I know we use split phase so we only ever have 120V at the fixture, maybe the 240V you use requires more space in enclosures (I really have no idea about that though)
That VW Transporter, looks fu**ing mint.
That's a lot of downlights for that area lol. I'm not in the trade but in this situation where the joists are proving to be a pain for alignment that a solution could be to just ask the customer to have less downlights so you can have longer distances between each one?
Just fitted 87 downlights in a house. Measure first and establish the joists. Do the calc and decide how many lights will work. Cool or warm? Keep spare DL & lamps on the van,and add a dimmer. Best not expose joists so that you have something to attach plasterboard to. Thx for the video
Another great video!
Will there be an update on the whole structural wood controversy? what has the surveyor said?
I'm sure I'm not the only one that "wood" like to hear the rest of the story.
Keep on doing a great job guys!
Give the chuck a little whacking, usually works if it locks up like that
I've done the same thing with my drill and those bits. Especially when extended. The drill is just a little underpowered for the task. Grab a strap wrench and wrap it around the chuck. It'll come loose!
But you can easily replace the chuck if it needs it without throwing away the whole drill.
You could probably replace the Chuck on the drill however you’d have to destructively remove parts of it to get it off as the reverse thread screw is usually in the center.
Lee and Luke great team work
Was there a reason why you couldn't lift the floor above or was it a flat roof
Rather than making access holes like that, do a 5" hole saw works great and fits back perfectly. Also big enough to get a driver in but not too big for all the mess
when I mark out down lights mark the centre of the run and work backwards. if that double joist is centre put the light next to it and then work back. Sucks when the centre of a hall or landing hits a joist or truss.
tip for a stuck chuck. tap the end of the chuck with a hammer as sometimes its frees the mechanism
Works every time 👍🏼
Same thing happened to the chuck on my makita combi dril and I had to open it with a water pump pliers every time
The same happened to our drill
I'm liking the runway, I mean the hallway lighting lads!
just drill into the joists and take a chunk out for your downlights that's what you normally do lee haha
Put drill on hammer, hammer drill some concrete floor then try remove the bit. Guarantee it works, just the drill bit that gets binned.
That button on the back of the van door is probably an electronic emergency release if it closes and you are stuck in there. The side doors will most likely have either the same or mechanical ones.
seems like there ought to be a spreadsheet to work out the downlight spacings. put in the joist spacings, and the width of joists and the distance from the wall. then populate the number of downlights and it will show the distance from the walls and the spacing which avoids all the joists.
need this!
Had a makita chuck lock before. decent pair of grips around it, drill in first gear and blip the trigger full send on-off-on-off........ It should give.... well, mine did. good luck
Nice, you can land a plane there also.😂
I’m a simple guy - I see a fresh Artisan upload and I click 👌🏻
You know about that
Simple guy squad 🙋
We approve these kind of people 👌🏼
Lee you absolute monster. 7:46 you put the milk in first
What a hard days work, all that filming and having to fit in the 'electrical' work as well. Never mind lads it looks like the customer is paying full whack for both. I really hope you had permission before sitting at their table for lunch and messing about with their keyboard. Professional conduct is a must when working in someones home.
Apply diversity to the oven and hob and your probably find it's a non issue for a single 6mm supply and a 32amp ocpd, I would get rid of that junction box and put a dual appliance outlet on it, job done.
That’s ok if the cables are not fixed on the appliances. Had one yesterday where the 2.7kw oven was wired into a JB with the hob on a 32a mcb. The flex was only 1.5 mm on the oven.
@@matthewwalley2412 i had one of these 10 year old ovens where i was told a 20 amp mcb max or a 13 amp fused down supply was to be used so i duly obliged with the 20 amp mcb as did not want to add to the kitchen ring given it was over 2kw. What was your fix ?
@@Михаиллеви I put a 16amp radial circuit in and connected the oven to a fused spur located in the kitchen cupboard next to the oven.
I know it seems rough but if the max load on the oven is less than the current rating of the 1.5mm cable, what’s the issue?
@@alexg113 my thoughts, appendix 15 suggests any load over 2kw should have it’s own radial circuit. If the oven has a fan it’s not a purely resistive load therefore overload cannot be omitted and the iz >= in and not ib.
Awesome job guys , really Enjoy watching and Learning ⚡️👊
Great Content guys and enjoy watching and Learning ⚡️👊
Haha! I had the same thing last!Just a bit off oil in the borehead and it worked fine again!
Guys , i only watched 1:45 and had to stop,, been there before, my tip - get 114mm holesaw and drill holes with dade, drill between joist and you will be able to make holes to joist from each side,, of course easy to repair plasterboard back as you wont have any nails there , so circles will be perfect,,
I hope it will help to you or any other guys out there
Just be careful of pipes and cables,, gentle drilling 👌
That’s my preferred method aswell. Always do it that way if I can’t get access from above 👍
maybe its the video but the downlights dont look like a straight line at all :D
No they don't.. look at 17:00
I wont say its an easy job to line 8 downlights perfectly in line though
One or two thrown out along the way. Would have thought all the laser levels would've helped! I HATE doing straight runs off single lights though, just takes one to make them look off.
Regarding the Cooker and Hob situation, just read Table A1 of the Onsite guide page 122. You'll be surprised how far you can go with domestic cooking diversity.
They should watch some JW's video
@@ununha They defo should
Hi just wondering wot are work trousers called and we’re do you buy them from ?
Great installation! Downlights look great!
Don’t know if the owners plan to re-do the wooden floor, if not, I would protect the floor with a protective cover of some sort, since all the parts and pieces from the ceiling add scratches to the floor 😉
Otherwise perfect job and I really want to see more 😍‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️
Also nice to see how Luke is getting into moderation of the videos more and more, great video!
Could you not have got in the floor above? I've seen you do a couple of these spot light jobs where you erm, Muller the ceilings, is it too hard work to lift carpets and flooring above? You got the job done though, not being in possession of the full facts of the construction, excuse me if I have got this wrong, Im looking at from a plumbers perspective. great vids guys
Stick to the plumbing then mate... sparkys know what is best to do and also can be down to clients choices...💁♂️
There’s a hell of a lot of customers that refuse having the carpet and floorboards up
I'm thinking laminate floor above.....
@@paulteasdale7112 yeah I had this exact situation this week
Aesthetically pleasing is the phrase you're looking for- nice to the eye! Well done guys! Milwaukee drill sponser required 😁
I’ve lost a fair few makitas to the same issue doing the same exact job. It’s a curse!
Hey Lee - couldn’t you just cut out those joists - I don’t think they’re structural ;-)
never cut into a joist with out professional structural consultation
I think he was being sarcastic, based on another video where he chopped out structural studs ! 🤣
Another banger video! Inspired me to make my own channel.
Nice job guys ye work well together 🇮🇪👏😎
No danger , what's going on with the spacing of the downlights!
Why not use the front facing camera Luke? Won’t need to use two mobiles then
must be on per point - how many spots in the hall way?
Nice rendition of 'heart and soul' there.
Nice job however I am with Cory on this, beats me why people want downlights all over their houses. That hallway looks like a runway.
Cooker circuit ok after diversity is applied.
It's so easy to install a new chuck, you just might have to destroy the old one to get it off. Look it up, only an hour of work.
If I done 8 Down lights in one day I’d get the sack
Good for you
I never have any luck with makita combi drills!
Lee the Apprentice. Good job boys.
Feet and inches? 😳
You guys still use that?
I thought it was only the US, Liberia and Myanmar.
Great Vlog lads.Cory fast dial cracked up .
wouldnt it be bether to take the whole strip out instead of making small holes to pull the cables? easier for the drywaller to put a whole strip back instead of small ones
See how long the hall is then half it the you can work out the how to do it
Happened to me I cut the chuck with a hacksaw off £20 for a new chuck
Great job and a new double act 😆😆😆
wd40 the chuck of the drill and tap the end of the bit with a hammer it will loosen up
Can’t believe you done 8 down lights in 1 day
*only
You done more today?
@sion Pritchard,
I’m shocked because the most I’ve ever done in my 1 is 6
Atleast it looks like Blackpool illuminations in that hallway. 4 downlights would of been plenty
How badly do you really want downlighters 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thats what im thinking🤣 ohwell if customers want to pay for it, why complain
Can't wait to see the plasterer's face 😂😂😂
Did Luke buy Lee a new drill ?🤣🤣🤣
Chuck has seized. Free it with a pair of pipe grips or wack it 👍🏻
Your Channel and your videos are so wonderful, worth watching and Subbing channel. thanks for making these videos, a fellow creator
Love the channel but lets be honest them spot lights are not in line. Unless u r 10 pints deep ha
You guys don’t charge £96 per hour.
Just some feedback, personal opinion, can you reduce the slow motion shots its turning into a dating site for electricians and focus on the electrical work.
Excellent work lads, way to earn that £700 + vat you charge
Couldn’t you have just ripped out a joist or two? ;-)
No surprise that the light in the middle didn’t move is it? It’s just proved the maths was sound. Heh.
So much unnecessary damage caused just duck and dive the joists
Can you explain what that is?
@@alexg113 you just make a small hole and either side of a joist and go under or drill through or sink into the joist alot less damage just needs a little filler job done, use and rod in to the hole push till it hits next joist then take out mark on ceiling and then repeat
Thanks. I’ve notched joists in the past but I don’t think it’s allowed from underneath now.
@@alexg113 yeah its allowed there's no regs on floor voids or ceilings as such if have a floor that can't come up or client doesn't want up you have to notch. What else can you do in an existing install or house which isn't being rewired 🤷♂️
It’s usually Cory that breaks everything
👀
Just looked it up on Google 8 down lighters = one 8,ft led battern 😉
7:45 did you seriously put milk in before the hot water. Are you even British. Oh lee
Try WD40 to clean chuck?
What is annual salary of one of these guys?
You guys don’t charge£96 per hour.
Makhita trash, same thing happend with me. Had never problem with Bosch
Makita for ya, get a proper tool
I have to say what a mess , not a good installation.
Rebreathers on for multi tooling a 200 mil rectangle in plasterboard?
Yes clearly
@@grannywaffle 🙄 act like a 12 year old then
@@grannywaffle super immature
Good effort chaps 👍🙏👍
Coat that chuck with some wd40 and leave it for a day or two boys you’ll get it out lol 😂
Lee looks strong for someone who only has salad for lunch
💪🏼
Is it a company rule to do up your top buttons on the t shirts lol
We just like to look dapper on all occasions 👌🏼
2nd