GunVault Repair
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- Опубликовано: 27 окт 2019
- This GunVault MiniVault Deluxe 1000 quit working one day. Here's how I fixed it. Check out the bonus feature at the end on how to program your personal code. Links below for tools and parts
Links
Motor shaft connectors
smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VCBXLN...
Crimp Sleeves
smile.amazon.com/dp/B078B3BXW...
Crimp Pliers
smile.amazon.com/dp/B004VZLGZ...
Leader (90 pound, 49 strand)
smile.amazon.com/dp/B004VZKGO...
If you have the SV500, here's a link to guy who made a repair to a similar problem on that one • GunVault SV500 Repair 
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Great video, great explanation. As a Mechanical Engineer myself... I had EXACTLY the same thought as the statement made at the 2:20 mark. This rotary motor + cable linkage is the most preposterous method I've ever seen for performing a linear actuation. Utterly ridiculous. What's even more upsetting however, was the indifferent and apathetic response I received from the manufacturer's technical support team. Total fail.
At least you got a response!
Just got my response also. No parts, sorry, too bad so sad, buy a new one. Nope. Gonna fix it.
THANK YOU!! I have a Gun Vault GV1000C, got in 2006, love it, stopped working, took it apart and yep, broke cable. Internet research says it's somewhat common but no good fixes. I'm staring at it trying to figure out how to fix this 3/4" long teeny shredded cable when I stumbled on this video. Absolutely brilliant fix! Motor shaft connector and steel fishing leader!
That's fantastic, I didn't expect to have an immediate success. Mine is still working fine. Tell you what, you email me your info at ITDefenseTraining@gmail.com and I'll mail you the parts. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@ImminentThreatDefense Hi, Mine stopped working a few days ago. Did a little research and found your video. Are you selling these parts to fix the problem? I'm more than capable to do the repair.
Thanks for the helpful video!
@@aenitro email me at ITDefensetraining@gmail.com with your info and I'll send you one.
Awesome video. I just got one from goodwill . Wrote to gun vault they sent me a key. I’m in now but have this cable problem. Someday I’ll order the parts and fix it for good. Thanks.
This was a FABULOUS video! For $20 of parts I was able to fix my gun vault. Thank you tons!
Made the repair. Unbelievably helpful !
Thank you, wish I found this 4 weeks ago. I had the same issue and it fixed it harvesting the original crimp on the motor and some pre crimped fishing wire i got at Walmart, but it just snapped again. Im thinking the line I used was too brittle. But now with the links to the parts you used this should last much longer. Thank you, this is awesome. Going to order the parts now.
If you have trouble with the cable, let me know. I have a bunch left I can send you some.
Very informative! I hope I can fix my safe. Thanks for the help
I took mine all apart like a typical man before looking up a video. Now seeing what everyone else is doing to fix it...great video! Now I have to re solder a wire I pulled too hard in addition.
Thanks for this. I fixed mine with by pinching the original cable to the post with a small bolt and washers.
Hey so they replaced mine under warranty. Happy to report they ditched this mechanism sort of. What they have now is the same motor, but now it has a large metal disc counterweight on it with a pin protruding from it. To that is attached a linkage imagine a pill shaped piece of metal with a small track in it. Sort of like a locomotive wheel with the pushrod and the thing is greased. This version now GV1050-19 also uses a much better dimple key. I think these are good improvements, also it has low battery indicator, light up bottoms and uses 9V battery. They didn’t make me return my unit just show pics of it broken, mine was like 15 years old. I’m impressed…
Interesting, sounds even more complicated :-) Can't believe the replaced it under warranty (after 15 years)! Good to know. Thanks for commenting!
@@ImminentThreatDefense hah! Nah I’d say it’s equally complicated but less failure prone. It’s the same concept, I get what they’re trying to do. They want a latch mechanism with a low force required without the risk that bashing it on its back imparts enuf energy that the latch can fire. For instance a solenoid in the same direction as the trip wire you could imagine generating enuf force to unlock. Here you’d have to input a hellacious rotational moment to get it to unlock. It’s still a curious mechanism, that much is certain.
As for the CS yeah impressive. Sadly the first time they replaced it I didn’t pay attention and they sent me a massive version that holds like 4 guns. I need a unit that holds one gun by my entry way to dump my CCW in…not a tackle box. So I did have to eat the shipping to get it back to them and the replacement…$40 total still cheaper than the $150 replacement unit. They’re owned by Cannon now btw, not camera but safe company.
The initial replacement was fully free to be clear but watch what they offer you. It’s not always what you had, I learned the hard way.
I'm so glad I found your video. My cable snapped too. I have the stuff to fix it on the way.
Worked like a charm!
Outstanding!
Thank you for this very informative video. It has convinced me to throw this POS safe into the garbage. I do not want to invest that much time fixing a safe that should have been made correctly from the factory.
Great video. My cable broke at the spindle so I had enough to just solder it back in place. it is holding well after 10 openings so we will see how it goes, if not, I'll do it as you did.
Mine's still working after 3 years of almost daily use. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much I just had this issue happen with mine
Unfortunately this repair wasn't the problem. They did update the mechanism from the cable pull but it's looking like I'm gonna have to go component to component with a multimeter. I'm not actually getting voltage to the motor. I plan on getting the double stack model I repair my single stack for vehicle transport
Thanks, I’m in the same predicament. Looks like a easy enough repair.
Email me at itdefensetraining@gmail.com I've got a spare parts kit
I really appreciate that. Very generous of you. But now I have a reason to make my own steel leaders!!🤣🤣
@@rickkorallus1162 That's right. It's not worth while project if it's not an excuse to buy at least one new tool :-)
Fashioned a cable, motor spins fine until I loop it around the release...then it tries but will not pull.
@@rickkorallus1162 It may be the length of the cable. I think the motor needs a little speed to build up some inertia. The circuitry only runs the motor for a short period of time, so if the cable is too long it won't get tight, but too short may not generate enough force. I guess I got the length right on the first try (by luck). Try a little longer cable. Also test the pull force required by finger, make sure the release is moving smoothly enough (maybe a little grease in the right spot will help).
I don’t have a clue about crimps for fishing. Can you point me at some reasonably priced crimping pliers that I could use for the #3 crimps? Thanks again for the video.
There are more than you can count on Amazon, the particular brand I use (I don't consider them exceptional, they are just the ones I bought 20 yrs ago) is smile.amazon.com/dp/B004VZLGZS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_3Nf3EbRCRYXWT But to tell you the truth, for a simple job like this almost any pair of pliers would probably work.
Thank you! My larger GunVault had the same issue and this is smart method to fix it. Have you thought about making kits and selling them for those of us with that same issue?
I wasn't sure how big an issue this was when I started, so didn't really think there was much of a market. This video has only had 2000 views in the first year, and only about 8 or 10 enquires about parts. I had to buy a batch of 8 of those motor shaft connectors and more cable and crimps than I'll need. I've given them away, I might have connector left if you want it. If I started selling them I'd have to deal with warranty, returns, customer relations, accounts payable, shipping losses, inter state sales taxes etc. and that means I'd have to charge about $100 a set for the grief. :-) That's why I put the links for the parts in the description above. Thanks for watching, glad to know the video helped.
Very nice. I was not so creative. I used super glue and I needed to apply it to both ends. Seems to work so far but nearly as nice as your solution. Since I originally took it apart years ago (I've been using the key) I'm trying to figure out where the eight battery rack and the 9V battery are supposed to go. Any help?
The battery pack goes on the ceiling in behind the control box. There's two threaded posts attached to the ceiling and two ears on the sides of the battery box. The post go though holes in the ears and u should have two thumb nuts that hold the battery box on the posts.
@@ImminentThreatDefense Thanks! I saved all the hardware. Got so used to using the key I just put off fixing it...for years. Which source is the electronics attached? The 9 volt or the battery pack? Either? The battery pack probably lasts longer, no?
@@davidbarnett8617 mine is older and this one has 8 AA'S and an external 12v source. I've got another one with just 8 AA, but I got tired of replacing them every 6 months so I wired it up to an extenal 12v gelcell. But that has a security flaw. If you disconnect the battery it erases the memory. Then if u hook it up again it defaults to the factory code.
@@ImminentThreatDefense I think mine is from 2005 or thereabouts. I have a feeling when I was debugging the problem initially I simply put the 9V in in place of the 8 AAs. A new 9V seems to set off the low battery signal now that I have it working again. Wish I saw your video before pouring super glue!
I guess this breakage issue is common and, as you said in the video, not too well designed. I like the idea not the implementation. Thanks for your help.
What do you think if it opens every other time or so?
lubrication. Scroll down through the comments and you'll see there have been a number of people who solved the problem by just a little lube on the moving parts of the latch. Requires the same disassembly. Hope that helps
My cable isn’t broken but it seems like the motor won’t rotate long\far enough to pull the spring. I jumped the motor off a 9v and it spins like a champ. Maybe the board isn’t timing the motor correctly? I’m at a loss on this one.
Great video, fwiw gun vault said “try eBay”. Thanks fellas....
Try lubricating the latch, one other viewer had that problem and a little grease helped. He also replaced the (new) cable with one that was just a little longer so the motor had a chance to build up a little more speed before the cable came tight. But start with clean and lube, he said it made a big difference. I see you had a similar customer service experience as several other viewers. Thanks for watching good luck and let me know how it goes.
The locking spring is pretty tight. You can just take some needle nose pliers and reduce the spring tension by bending it a little on the right side where it is coiled. That may be enough to solve your problem. Also there is the tiny latch spring that rubs on the locking spring. You can bend that and use the housing to retain the position instead by bending it 90 degrees and putting it under the latch housing.
I thought of messing with the cable more but not the lock itself. I’ll give it a go, thx!
Where can I find the rubber door stops?!??!?
Not sure but I just did a search on Amazon for "rubber bumper with stem" it came up with dozens of choices. You should be able to find something that works.
Mine has no sound but works any idea ?
Yeah that's a feature not a flaw. There's a way to mute the keys. Method for turning sound back on again varies with model. Refer to your manual. Thanks for watching!
Do you charge to repair ?
I'm not really in the business of repairing these things, I've provided links to the parts and tools in the description, if that helps. Otherwise contact me directly at ITDefenseTraining@gmail.com and maybe we can work something out.
Resist trying to firm the connection, motor needs the slop to whip the cable. Found this:
www.amazon.com/dp/B078828MG5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Very true. Links to all the parts and tools are in the description above. Thanks for watching
This failed on me I suspect and I don't have the key anymore, this is such a dumb fuck design. I'm also an engineer and this design is unconscionable. Imagine going for your gun in the middle of the night cause you hear someone kicking in your door and you hear whirrrrrr whirrrrrr and nothing. Thankfully it's been relegated to where I shove my CCW pistol when I get home, that said it's trapped in there now.
without the key you're only choices are destructive disassembly or pick the lock. Any lock smith should be able to handle or you can buy what Amazon calls a "Tubular stainless steel wrench", what those of us less knowledgeable in the rules on online sales would call a tubular lock pick. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
@@ImminentThreatDefenseyep, ordered the tubular picks, cost me $20 for a set of 3. I’m at a loss about this locking mechanism, what in the actual F. I guess it has low mass so it’s less susceptible to being unlocked by bashing. But I gotta think a right sized solenoid would work. Or a worm drive linear actuator with a pawl ughh.
I'm getting to old to set here and waste time watching all these dam useless commercials prior to getting to the fix.
I hear you :-) the worst part is I made a whole $0.97 on this video last month. There's got to be a better way to do this. It's great that I'm able to help people but it's certainly not a profitable business yet. Thanks for watching and commenting, hope, once you got past the ads, it was some help.