5 Ways to Maximise Your Grip (without a Hangboard)
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- Grip strength is without a doubt one of the most important aspects of rock climbing. But finger strength is only one of the many variables that allows you to grip bad holds while climbing. In this video we cover 5 ways to maximise your grip without hangboarding or increasing finger strength. This works both in bouldering and sport climbing and is especially useful for climbers that struggle to make strength gains on the hangboard.
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A lot of this video can be put in a different way: many times it's not that you're not strong enough to do the movement, you're not strong enough to do things inefficiently. Strength is super important, but making sure we're making the most of the strength we do have is one key thing we can all apply to our climbing, regardless of where we're at in our climbing journey.
yeah but "Maximise your grip strength" is quicker to say 😉
Jk, really good point. I've seen a pattern in relatively new climbers that develop finger strength very quickly, they struggle to work on efficiency of movement because they are less frequently challenged by the grips and good body positions aren't forced as much. They tend to be very "strong for the grade" for a long time. It takes a lot of deliberate practice to do things efficiently when your strength far surpasses the difficulty of a climb.
@@LatticeTraining Yeah or even intermediate people who workout at the gym a lot. They do the weirdest things because they can sometimes get away with it like cutting feet for no good reason at all.
0:31 Footwork
3:17 Take bad holds slowly
3:46 Use momentum
4:20 Flexibility - for bringing hips closer to wall, better use of legs
4:40 Use full-crimps
Love it. I have weaker fingers than most of my climbing partners, these are definitely the tricks that I use to try and keep up 😄
Maybe you covered in one of your other videos but how do you learn the different crimps on the wall without a hangboard? As a beginner i want to practice but not sure on how to learn the hand position
that short scene for Get Used to Full-Crimping is not showing full crimping, not even a proper grip position since the DIP joint could not support any significant force before being in extension or hyperextension for full crimp. I mention because the other clips do not give a viewer unaccustomed to full crimping a clear enough view of the actual grip position, and I have definitely seen climbers attempt this and have the joints collapse into a rapidly loaded full crimp which further buckles as a result.
But, thanks for actually informing people to not avoid. Full crimping is a tool alike any other grip position, and as with any tool you want to maintain them, be experienced with them, and use them when appropriate.
I really like the term "rear-wheel drive climber", will incorporate into my vocab hehe
Another super important thing is that strong and healthy shoulders are the most beneficial for efficient and strong grip.
Yes great point! We should add strong wrists too. No weak links in the chain.
Could you do a video about the full crimp or at least higher angle crimps? I'm doing coaching with Lattice at the minute and fell into a trap with the hangboard before I started the coaching that a few people do of being very strong in the less 'engaged' position, or rather 'overtrained' on a fingerboard but not understanding how angles of pressure worked and finding small incut crimps hard to hold. I'm now finding that actively training higher angles has the biggest ability for me to improve my ability to utilise edges as I transition outside, but I feel whenever videos talk about it they gloss past it as an 'injury risk' despite being a thing that outdoor climbers who have to use small holds have to use on a regular basis. Be good to see how coaches understand the theory as I've had to learn it through trial, injury, error and then success
Hey Matt, thanks for the comment. I'll think about doing a video about grip positions. Would this be for grip positions while climbing, or grip positions while training on a hangboard?
@@LatticeTraining Grip positions while climbing, but probably the benefits of training with grip specificity in controlled settings so the injury risk potential is minimised when going for the full crimp. As someone who'd avoided the full crimp previously it's been a very slow reconditioning process but is working a lot better now I've taken some of the ego out of big numbers on a fingerboard and focused on the form
@@matthewontherocks Thanks for the feedback. I'll add it to the 'ideas' list :)
I would love a video on how to start to incorporate full crimps into training as well.
Interesting!
I thought the video would be about the complete opposite. As someone who has been a hobby-climber for over 10 years, I feel like that good technique can be a limiting factor at getting a better grip when training consists of at-most 2 sessions a week.
I was hoping that this video would show some drills on how to make climbs more finger-y to get stronger without a hangboard. I guess that answer is to use the mentioned techniques consciously less frequently.
Nevertheless, great tips and video quality as always!! 🔥
4:32 What was that?
I have quite big pads. Any advice to climbing crimps?
In training: Try using a larger edge for strength gains/max hangs i.e. 25mm+. I've seen climbers make better strength gains with this approach.
Climbing outside: Get comfortable and strong in all grip types, especially open 3 drag. Anatomically you may always have a harder time compared to people with short/small finger. So play to your strength in more open hand positions.
Thanks for the responce. I didn't know that open hand was better for climber with long hands and pads. I will also try to hang from a 25 or 30 mm edge.
Should I train with open hand or half crimp?
@@jochemstuit6288 Half crimp is very good for developing strength, so this is always a good option. But train with open hand i.e. drag as well. A good session could be 4 sets of half crimp, followed by 4 sets of drag, for example.
I would be very careful with full crimps, especially very aggresive ones on very bad crimps. While it gives the most power, relying on it too much makes you more prone to injuries than you already are when full crimping on occasions. Usually you can lessen the load of your full crimps by improving footwork, hip positioning and flexibility. So I would always look for these alternatives first before deciding to say "fck it, Im going to pull hard and reach".
But if you dont train it, you will be more injury prone when you suddenly don’t have any other options. It’s like saying heavy deep squats are dangerous. They probably are for you and I simply because we haven’t trained for it.
Full crimp is important, but wouldn’t advise it on newer climbers. I try to avoid it as much as I can really
I don't think full crimp is an issue for beginners, its the intensity and volume (amount) they are using full crimp that might present the risk. However I wouldn't be too concerned about that either because the level at which beginners are climbing means they are less likely to need to full crimp on small hold, indoors at least. Route setting up to V4 is most likely on larger edges, jugs, slopers etc. So starting early means not surprises later on and a slow introduction. In my experience, people hurting themselves in full crimp happens later, when small crimps start to become common place i.e. >V5.
first step: have healthy fingers in the first place.
step two: there are no healthy fingers. go back to step 1.
Great point, healthy fingers are a prerequisite! We like to use a hangboard for conditioning the fingers and keeping them healthy. And this video is all about not using a hangboard 😉
Spelled "Maximize" wrong.
It's the British way of spelling lmao
UK spelling or US spelling are both fine
“Spelt”
Rye?
Peak r/shitamericansay moment