Your board design is very thoughtful and beautiful too! FYI If out of rovings you can make your own with regular cloth by pulling strands and binding them together with scotch tape. Very professional sanding job and good respiratory protection but no shirt might be itchy! Admire your work! Awesome!
Thanks mate👍 i mainly just use the sun but i also have a lamp with a fluro black light for kicking small jobs. it's just the kind ofd bulb youd get for parties
Thanks for the kind words mate🤙🏽 I generally do wear a respirator just not this day as the hot-coat is so quick. As for sanding there really isn't any glass fibre in the dust at this stage so it just makes your skin dry like talc would. When grinding the laps though it's a good idea to cover up or you're right, you'll itch for days!! In a future video I might talk about health hazards associated with the industry, we only have one body eh?
I have a trio of questions regarding the cork deck. Do you just attach it the same way you do the lam (catalyzed not uv)? Also is the cork just a typical roll that’s the same as something used for a wall or is it a higher density item? Finally do you seal is or is it just raw attached? (Bonus questions, how does it hold up and do you wax it?) I appreciate any response. Btw the board looks phenomenal
Gday Jeff, thanks for the kind words brother🤙🏽 Q1: If using PU resin I have found that it cures better with a little wax. Sun cure is fine to use but you have to add MEKP to make it cure of course. I use a vacuum bag to attach it but I reckon it'd work just wrapping sandwich wrap over it... Q2: Flooring cork will do fine, this isn't that though, it's a composite sandwich core material called Corecork by Amorim. I have a huge roll left over from building some exotic epoxy composite sandwich beasties years ago. It's 2mm thick. Q3: Ideally you'd laminate the cork directly to the deck on top of the lam before hotcoating, with this board however it was an afterthought so it went on top of the hotcoat after sanding. It's not sealed but it does need the occasional rough-up with some course paper for better grip. Q4: it feels amazing under foot, like really nice. it's not tacky like wax, more of a mechanical grip rather than a chemical one if you know what I mean.. I don't wax these boards, it kind of defeats the purpose. Bonus Answer: I wouldn't recommend it for boards that you plan to surf in warm water with board shorts on. The cork is very abrasive on soft skin and will tear your knees up for example if they slid against it on you way up. But for a board that you plan to always ride in a wetty it's great in my opinion. Fish, fun boards, mals, etc. but maybe not high performance shortboards because you'd really want the tack of wax in critical situations or manoeuvres. Hope this helps, have fun brother🤙🏽🍻
I mix up my own filler coat/hot coat using laminating resin and wax-in-styrene as per normal so it's regular filler resin. When I do a filler coat I do the bottom and let it cure only to the point that I can flip the board and the racks wont leave marks. Then I fill the deck. The rails effectively get two coats and this helps prevent burn throughs. Normally you would be required to key the surface (sand) before adding a new layer if the resin was cured but as the deck filler goes on over a super green bottom filler adhesion isn't an issue. This is standard practice in the industry, if you worry about doing it this way I'd suggest doing a little test piece to see what you think🤙🏽
Hey dude, awesome work! I was on my 3rd surf with my first self shape and one of my glass on fins ripped through the board all the way to the PU, while I was doing a bottom turn. Watching your video, I just realised I should had put more layers of glass (I only put about 3 on each side). But while laminating the fins, I kept having the same problem... How do you prevent from having air bubbles inside the glass? I feel like after I finished glassing, I had to keep pushing the glass down, so it didn't blow up like a ballon from the inside. Did I put way to little cat, that's why it was taking so long, and creating all these air pockets? Thanks!
Ah bro, that sucks! sorry to hear that mate.. Well i can't be sure exactly what is going wrong with your bubbles but i can advise that you go one layer at a time and wet it out thoroughly before doing another layer. The way i did these fins isn't typical, i didnt have any rovings left so i just used patches. Rovings are the better way to go, check out the vid with the blue flex tail fish for that... It's possible to kick it off too slow and have the resin drain out. You could use UV resin with just a tiny drop of MEKP to stop this, it goes off in minutes in the sun but you have practically all the working time you need... Good luck brother🤙🏽
Just reread your message. It sounds like perhaps your board was outgassing while you were waiting for the resin to kick.. Very unusual as pu foam is closed cell and shouldn't do that.. normally if you have outgassing issues it's beside the stringer.. anyhow, the solution is to do it as the temperature drops and the blank is breathing in rather than out👍🏽 Hot air expands and cold air contracts, the blank will suck in resin rather than blow bubbles as it cools.
@@cantigasurfco.8549 Hey! I just reshaped another fin and glassed it on. I used your advise to go one layer at the time and wet it out thoroughly and it worked perfectly! I also added a few layers to the other fin. Hopefully this one lasts a little bit longer haha. Gonna try it out later today. Cheers 🤙
Awesome work! at 4:00 if you dont use uv cure, how many percent of catalyst do you use so the resin wont drip? %2? do you do this method on longboard as well? cheers!
Thanks for the good vibes bro! On this exact board it was zero MEKP on the bottom hot-coat because I used UV catalyst. On the deck though it was quite a bit from memory as it was a cool evening... It always depends on temperature and even your brand of MEKP. Might be a good idea to do a little experiment if you have a little resin to spare so you know how yours acts. Start at 2% and go up to maybe 4% and aim for about a 10 min jell. Also- if it's developing drips before it kicks you can always knock them off again with the brush. Yep, works on all boards🤙🏽
Nice board. For all the people shaping boards…please take care of the environment, don’t sand your board outside. This plastic dust ends up in your food. Cheers
So many good tips in this video! Thank you!
Your board design is very thoughtful and beautiful too! FYI If out of rovings you can make your own with regular cloth by pulling strands and binding them together with scotch tape. Very professional sanding job and good respiratory protection but no shirt might be itchy! Admire your work! Awesome!
Great tip there, thanks brother, always learning😃🤙🏽🤙🏽
Congratulations, great work... Beautiful.
This videos are gold, thanks
first again! it's like I knew it was coming,,,😄🤙🏽
Cool VideO, I suggest you look into Fin ROPE, Less Cloth, Halfway first, covers cleaner . StudY Little Grasshopper
Thanks for the great video!!
Covid lockdown boredom gets the creative juices flowing hahaha! Thanks for the positivity bro😃🤙🏽
Very nice mate... was the pink in the centre a tint or also pigment? Cheers
That pink is a fluro powder tint👍🏼
Could you pls post part 3? 😊😊✌🏽
Heaps will! Love u peep🧔🏻💘👩🏽
Rad video! Is the cork traction pad a purchased thing or did you make it up?
Fckn sick tut brah. Subbed one way
Just stumbled over your videos, nice work.
How did you get between the two fins to sand them? Cheers.
Awesome build series! What kind of light/what wavelength light do you use to cure the UV resin?
Thanks mate👍 i mainly just use the sun but i also have a lamp with a fluro black light for kicking small jobs. it's just the kind ofd bulb youd get for parties
"pew pew zap"
I love these technical terms :D
Haha, i was worried it might go over peoples heads😄🤙🏽
Great skills mate but no mask glassing and no shirt sanding you must be itchy. Nice board 👍 from Australia 🇦🇺😎
Thanks for the kind words mate🤙🏽 I generally do wear a respirator just not this day as the hot-coat is so quick. As for sanding there really isn't any glass fibre in the dust at this stage so it just makes your skin dry like talc would. When grinding the laps though it's a good idea to cover up or you're right, you'll itch for days!! In a future video I might talk about health hazards associated with the industry, we only have one body eh?
That's cause you're too quick mate! Great vid and tutorial, keep it going with the detail, cheers!
I have a trio of questions regarding the cork deck. Do you just attach it the same way you do the lam (catalyzed not uv)? Also is the cork just a typical roll that’s the same as something used for a wall or is it a higher density item? Finally do you seal is or is it just raw attached? (Bonus questions, how does it hold up and do you wax it?) I appreciate any response. Btw the board looks phenomenal
Gday Jeff, thanks for the kind words brother🤙🏽
Q1: If using PU resin I have found that it cures better with a little wax. Sun cure is fine to use but you have to add MEKP to make it cure of course. I use a vacuum bag to attach it but I reckon it'd work just wrapping sandwich wrap over it...
Q2: Flooring cork will do fine, this isn't that though, it's a composite sandwich core material called Corecork by Amorim. I have a huge roll left over from building some exotic epoxy composite sandwich beasties years ago. It's 2mm thick.
Q3: Ideally you'd laminate the cork directly to the deck on top of the lam before hotcoating, with this board however it was an afterthought so it went on top of the hotcoat after sanding. It's not sealed but it does need the occasional rough-up with some course paper for better grip.
Q4: it feels amazing under foot, like really nice. it's not tacky like wax, more of a mechanical grip rather than a chemical one if you know what I mean.. I don't wax these boards, it kind of defeats the purpose.
Bonus Answer: I wouldn't recommend it for boards that you plan to surf in warm water with board shorts on. The cork is very abrasive on soft skin and will tear your knees up for example if they slid against it on you way up. But for a board that you plan to always ride in a wetty it's great in my opinion. Fish, fun boards, mals, etc. but maybe not high performance shortboards because you'd really want the tack of wax in critical situations or manoeuvres.
Hope this helps, have fun brother🤙🏽🍻
@@cantigasurfco.8549 absolutely helps a lot, thank you very much for the in depth reply!
Hey! I was wondering how the deck filler coat resin bonds to the bottom one without sanding, didn´t you use any styrene?
I mix up my own filler coat/hot coat using laminating resin and wax-in-styrene as per normal so it's regular filler resin. When I do a filler coat I do the bottom and let it cure only to the point that I can flip the board and the racks wont leave marks. Then I fill the deck. The rails effectively get two coats and this helps prevent burn throughs. Normally you would be required to key the surface (sand) before adding a new layer if the resin was cured but as the deck filler goes on over a super green bottom filler adhesion isn't an issue. This is standard practice in the industry, if you worry about doing it this way I'd suggest doing a little test piece to see what you think🤙🏽
Hey dude, awesome work! I was on my 3rd surf with my first self shape and one of my glass on fins ripped through the board all the way to the PU, while I was doing a bottom turn. Watching your video, I just realised I should had put more layers of glass (I only put about 3 on each side). But while laminating the fins, I kept having the same problem... How do you prevent from having air bubbles inside the glass? I feel like after I finished glassing, I had to keep pushing the glass down, so it didn't blow up like a ballon from the inside. Did I put way to little cat, that's why it was taking so long, and creating all these air pockets? Thanks!
Ah bro, that sucks! sorry to hear that mate.. Well i can't be sure exactly what is going wrong with your bubbles but i can advise that you go one layer at a time and wet it out thoroughly before doing another layer. The way i did these fins isn't typical, i didnt have any rovings left so i just used patches. Rovings are the better way to go, check out the vid with the blue flex tail fish for that... It's possible to kick it off too slow and have the resin drain out. You could use UV resin with just a tiny drop of MEKP to stop this, it goes off in minutes in the sun but you have practically all the working time you need... Good luck brother🤙🏽
Just reread your message. It sounds like perhaps your board was outgassing while you were waiting for the resin to kick.. Very unusual as
pu foam is closed cell and shouldn't do that.. normally if you have outgassing issues it's beside the stringer.. anyhow, the solution is to do it as the temperature drops and the blank is breathing in rather than out👍🏽 Hot air expands and cold air contracts, the blank will suck in resin rather than blow bubbles as it cools.
@@cantigasurfco.8549 Hey! I just reshaped another fin and glassed it on. I used your advise to go one layer at the time and wet it out thoroughly and it worked perfectly! I also added a few layers to the other fin. Hopefully this one lasts a little bit longer haha. Gonna try it out later today. Cheers 🤙
@@miguelm.cassiano63 Legendary! Thanks for stopping by to let me know how it went brother, I'm stoked it worked well! greqt work mate, keep it up!!🤙🏽🍻
Awesome work! at 4:00 if you dont use uv cure, how many percent of catalyst do you use so the resin wont drip? %2? do you do this method on longboard as well? cheers!
Thanks for the good vibes bro! On this exact board it was zero MEKP on the bottom hot-coat because I used UV catalyst. On the deck though it was quite a bit from memory as it was a cool evening... It always depends on temperature and even your brand of MEKP. Might be a good idea to do a little experiment if you have a little resin to spare so you know how yours acts. Start at 2% and go up to maybe 4% and aim for about a 10 min jell. Also- if it's developing drips before it kicks you can always knock them off again with the brush. Yep, works on all boards🤙🏽
@@cantigasurfco.8549 Thanks man! please do a polished board on your next video. Cheers!
The next one is already filmed, just need to edit it. It's not a polish job but you won't be disappointed. Ill do a polish soon though🤙🏽
@@cantigasurfco.8549 Yeew! Cheers mate!
Polyester over epoxy? On filler coat?
Never in my workshop😵
no mask in that closed room for hot coats?? did you forget ab the baord completely after?🤣
U didn't use fiber ? It's not necessary??
loads of fibreglass, you might have to look closer👍🏽
the guy that stole your last fin should be jailed. Theft is no joke
Nice board. For all the people shaping boards…please take care of the environment, don’t sand your board outside. This plastic dust ends up in your food. Cheers