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That pink is a fluro powder tint👍🏼

Never mind I saw the part 3. So you draw it with a marker or what? And do you tape off the pinline on top of filler resin to get a clean line or just on the lam coat?

Never mind again. Looks like ya you have a sanded filler bit under the pinline.

I’ve heard that a fin humming needs the trailing edge blunted.

This one is laminated in reverse (top first) in a milk coffee type colour but yeah, if you want top and bottom to match then mix enough coloured resin for the deck and bottom👍🏼 Yeah, the board that inspired this was a Thomas shape and he has the split keel on the short side. To me its like youre counteracting the effects of a shorter rail line on that side with the longer fin base... so i kept the shorter fin base on the shorter rail side. This one is set up goofy for me so shorter rail on the heel because i seem to drive harder off my toe side but its probably just as enjoyable surfed regular. By far my favorite board, wish id made it 10 years ago👍🏼🍻.

It doesnt matter which is done first really except grinding the decks laps on the bottom is a bit more critical when the edge is on foam... not really an issue though when youve done it a million times. In this case its just an aesthetic choice- i just wanted the bottom to not have the lap line😃👌🏼🍻

Thanks mate👍 i mainly just use the sun but i also have a lamp with a fluro black light for kicking small jobs. it's just the kind ofd bulb youd get for parties

Thanks mate, glad i could help!!

loads of fibreglass, you might have to look closer👍🏽

Ah bro, that sucks! sorry to hear that mate.. Well i can't be sure exactly what is going wrong with your bubbles but i can advise that you go one layer at a time and wet it out thoroughly before doing another layer. The way i did these fins isn't typical, i didnt have any rovings left so i just used patches. Rovings are the better way to go, check out the vid with the blue flex tail fish for that... It's possible to kick it off too slow and have the resin drain out. You could use UV resin with just a tiny drop of MEKP to stop this, it goes off in minutes in the sun but you have practically all the working time you need... Good luck brother🤙🏽

Just reread your message. It sounds like perhaps your board was outgassing while you were waiting for the resin to kick.. Very unusual as pu foam is closed cell and shouldn't do that.. normally if you have outgassing issues it's beside the stringer.. anyhow, the solution is to do it as the temperature drops and the blank is breathing in rather than out👍🏽 Hot air expands and cold air contracts, the blank will suck in resin rather than blow bubbles as it cools.

@@cantigasurfco.8549 Hey! I just reshaped another fin and glassed it on. I used your advise to go one layer at the time and wet it out thoroughly and it worked perfectly! I also added a few layers to the other fin. Hopefully this one lasts a little bit longer haha. Gonna try it out later today. Cheers 🤙

@@miguelm.cassiano63 Legendary! Thanks for stopping by to let me know how it went brother, I'm stoked it worked well! greqt work mate, keep it up!!🤙🏽🍻

Thanks mate, yeah, this one turned out very nicely and i was pleased with the final result👍🏽 The owner reported that he loves the way it goes so thats what counts🤙🏽

This is just a fibreglass roller available from anywhere fibreglassing materials are sold and some hardware stores. if you were to google "Fibreglass roller" I'm sure it would come up with ebay listings and many other places to buy them🤙🏽

Hey mate, thanks for droppin in! Yeah, ive thought about this. The way id do it would be to mould the fin cant angle into the pannel so that would involve using something in conjunction with a sheet of glass to lay up on to get that angle. Then carefully cut out my fin shapes so the tab was angled and foil as per usual...

Gday Mate, thanks for the kind words! The cork feels really nice and grips well if you keep it roughed up with course sand paper but it obviously doesnt have any "tack" like wax. Its better for cruisier shapes like mals and fish but wax is probably better on high performance boards where super grip is essential. Also, the cork is very harsh on the skin (knees, etc) so best on boards in cold waters where you wear a wetsuit. Stay salty mate🤙🏽

​@@cantigasurfco.8549 Thanks for your advice. On your boards the cork looks very nice. Health and good waves

I mix up my own filler coat/hot coat using laminating resin and wax-in-styrene as per normal so it's regular filler resin. When I do a filler coat I do the bottom and let it cure only to the point that I can flip the board and the racks wont leave marks. Then I fill the deck. The rails effectively get two coats and this helps prevent burn throughs. Normally you would be required to key the surface (sand) before adding a new layer if the resin was cured but as the deck filler goes on over a super green bottom filler adhesion isn't an issue. This is standard practice in the industry, if you worry about doing it this way I'd suggest doing a little test piece to see what you think🤙🏽

Gday Jeff, thanks for the kind words brother🤙🏽 Q1: If using PU resin I have found that it cures better with a little wax. Sun cure is fine to use but you have to add MEKP to make it cure of course. I use a vacuum bag to attach it but I reckon it'd work just wrapping sandwich wrap over it... Q2: Flooring cork will do fine, this isn't that though, it's a composite sandwich core material called Corecork by Amorim. I have a huge roll left over from building some exotic epoxy composite sandwich beasties years ago. It's 2mm thick. Q3: Ideally you'd laminate the cork directly to the deck on top of the lam before hotcoating, with this board however it was an afterthought so it went on top of the hotcoat after sanding. It's not sealed but it does need the occasional rough-up with some course paper for better grip. Q4: it feels amazing under foot, like really nice. it's not tacky like wax, more of a mechanical grip rather than a chemical one if you know what I mean.. I don't wax these boards, it kind of defeats the purpose. Bonus Answer: I wouldn't recommend it for boards that you plan to surf in warm water with board shorts on. The cork is very abrasive on soft skin and will tear your knees up for example if they slid against it on you way up. But for a board that you plan to always ride in a wetty it's great in my opinion. Fish, fun boards, mals, etc. but maybe not high performance shortboards because you'd really want the tack of wax in critical situations or manoeuvres. Hope this helps, have fun brother🤙🏽🍻

@@cantigasurfco.8549 absolutely helps a lot, thank you very much for the in depth reply!

can't wait to build it!

Thanks for the good vibes brother! Glass-on fins are actually quite a lot stronger than fin plugs but there are pros and cons to both systems. Glass-ons are somewhat more difficult to travel with and you are stuck with the fins the board comes with but overall they are better attached to the board and look far nicer. On the other hand, plugs allow you to change your fins for a different size/style/shape set or remove your fins entirely for safer transport or storage...

Just re-read your comment and realised you were referring to the leash plug. Its pretty rare that they ever pull out, most never even leak. On big wave boards they use two though and on larger boards like 9' mals you will more often find a larger one. Ill be doing videos on leash plugs and alternatives soon so hang keep an eye out for those👍🏼

Im currently down in SA for the time being. We've been down here 4 years for work and family stuff but will be breaking out again when the country opens back up...

There are quite a few reasons why i use suncure including the ease of use, the rapid cure on demand, long working times & less yellowing over time. Having said that it doesnt work with opaque pigments (you can use it but MEKP must be added for full depth cure) and i do add a small amount of MEKP to almost all mixes to ensure a propper cure throughout👍🏼

Never in my workshop😵

Great tip there, thanks brother, always learning😃🤙🏽🤙🏽

Machine crapped out?

It does unless you slap on a quick lick of filler and flush it down like i do. If you pinline directly on the textured surface of the cloth it will make an ungodly mess😄

Bit will not lock

This is a Makita 9227cb variable speed sander/polisher. It's the go-to workhorse here is Australia. I'm about to drop a vid about repairing it by coincidence. Probably going up tomorrow🤙🏽

@@cantigasurfco.8549 nice, do you have problem about the sandpaper clogging up? are you based in SA?

@@6to6surf4 I don't have that issue likely because of the paper. I use SIA brand paper (Siaflex 1948) because that's what we used at TGL when I worked there. It's top notch gear and I find it on Ebay for a great price. I suspect if your paper is clogging it's probably not the best kind... I'll have an in-depth vid on sanding some time soon, maybe it could help...

Thanks for the good vibes brother🍻 Yeah, so fibers in more directions make for a stronger, stiffer and more durable board👍🏼🤙🏽