Bit of a long one here folks so have broken it into chapters. Check the description or the time bar for timestamps and chapters. Or.... watch the whole thing, this aint tik-tok 😆Cheers guys, appreciate you all!
Hey, it's me again, it's very cool how you did that, I was always against laminated fins, because I am traveling a lot with not to much space, but especially on like a fish or a longboard it's still very nice. Just one thing: Why don't you like rout a little slot for the fin? Some little like 1cm deep slot, I think I would feel a bit more comfortable with the fin, because it's such a large fin wich is probably under some force. Anyway, very nice video again and thanks for all the tips and tricks
I’m doing this epoxy board right now that is a repair job from another repairman. He put the fin box in about 6° out from vertical. It’s a 10’ log with exaggerated bottom contours at the tail section, so squaring off the board was becoming a hassle at best. He was very adamant about having the new fin box installed dead perfect as he had already spent a bunch of money on the original repair just to get back a botched box after 3 months in the shop. My solution was to perfectly level the board on the racks, find center and put a vertical laser on the dummy fin to set the box. Worked like a charm…. The shit I do for the boys!! 😂 looks great to the eye as well so now I’ll move on with life. Another great video man! My #1 channel when I need some inspiration and knowledge! 🤙🏽
O dayum, sounds like the bro got the uncle Tony special! That is so annoying, I can't imagine ever letting a board go out with a crooked cntr box?!? I actually did the same thing a couple of months ago, my jig was ever so slightly out at the top end of the route and it looked OK but with a straight edge, by the time it traveled to the nose of the 9'6 board, it was waaaay off. Very annoying but the only choice is to take the hit, route it out and re do it. Lazer level is the way, I've often thought about buying one to be 100% sure!
These jobs happen pretty rarely and in between each glass on fin I do, I always see cool videos on how to do it, normally on instagram and think ''I'm gonna try that next time''. By the time next time comes around, I've forgotten what the technique is and who posted it so I end up doing it this way haha. The roving stage is tricky, especially keeping it tidy. I've seen some really cool techniques but I've forgotten them all! 😅
I'm probably not any different than you, if I ever have to glass on a fin I will have probably forgotten what I seen from this video... good job, I really admire your work.
The outside skin of pour foam is like a smooth plastic nothing(resin, new foam) will stick to it. If you do multiple pours you need to abrade each pour before going over it. Do a sample test with some extra foam. You'll see it will not bond. Have you ever tried running your cloth on the bias 45/45 vs 0/90? The bias will turn the corner easier. 50% of the 0/90 is doing nothing, because its running parallel to the joint.
I did my second pour before the first had hardened so the skin had not yet developed. Definitely though, if left too long it needs to be sanded through the skin before anything can bond to it. Should have mentioned that in the video!
Hey brother Always glad to see your videos I could feel the relief that this ones done I always felt that in a world where everyone made their own board everyone would have flat resin color finishes hahaha Nobody likes doing tape work And think of all the work you're making the tape farmers do! I hope somebody surfs the s$$$T out of it man
Hey hey! Cheers man, was certainly a weight off the shoulders to see this one go. Confident that the owner will use this at least every week! 100% haha, if we all made our own boards they'd be pretty boring looking 😂
Pleasure! I got mine from surfboard studio in Victoria, Australia. If you're up north, greenlight surf supply has them and if neither of them are options, Amazon or eBay
@@ptj6412 not a dumb question at all. Sanding resin and laminating resin are different. I have a video on poly repairs for beginners (my logo is the thumbnail) that goes into it a bit. Laminating resin will always remain tacky even after curing which allows you to add more resin and cloth to it after its cured. This tackiness is caused by the resins contact with the air. Sanding resin contains a wax additive (waxed styrene) which floats to the top of your resin as it cures (imagine the skin on cold soup). This wax layer or soup skin creates a barrier between the resin and the air allowing for a smooth, non sticky sanding surface. You can either buy pre mixed sanding resin or make your own by adding 2% wax additive to your standard laminating resin. Hope that helps 🤙
Hello I have one question if I may. What is that composite you use to generate foam inside of the whole? I have been doing similar repairs but it is always q cell with foam :/ That seems much cleaner. Thank you"
Hey hey, That's a 36kg 2 part expanding foam. I have a video on the stuff that covers most of the questions I get regularly about the stuff. It can definitely make life easier than cutting and shaping foam blocks, both have their places though 🤙
Gday rob, missed your comment somehow! Good man with the foam replacement. I've actually just had to change supplier myself, luckily I have a buddy close by who's a freak and loves doing taxidermy 😂 for that reason I cant actually provide you with a supplier at this point for 56kg foams. I can for 34kg and 64kg though (hes just stopped selling the 56kg this month). If you want this 56kg stuff though, Google your nearest taxidermist and ask them for their foam supplier, they all seem to use the 56kg stuff! If you have no luck and wanna try the other stuff let me know and I can get you a contact.
Cheers man, Will definitely hit those animal stuffer's up for there foam dealer.I think Norski is around 30kg+-. So maybe a good option for diy ? Thoughts ? Trying to keep mine and the crews boards running in a low income area so appreciate your vids.
Good stuf!! 7:35 can you make a Video that explains how to use the (Angel Geije) Fin Angle Tool? i havent figer it out how to mesure/use it. to mesur out the fin angel that i need, so i can install the Finn Box's. im soper cunfused, and can't find a Video that explanins it... Thanks for eany tips and triks (:
Thanks for these videos man. They're so good. Can't see why you don't have more views. You have helped me a lot though. Ill grab some merch. If you're ever in Melbourne I'll shout you a session at urbnsurf too. Thanks mate!
This method was invented before the invention of Q-cell and microfiber. It's not really the strongest or best method in 2023. A putty made from microfibre is better and stronger. You can get the bevel right with a caulking tool. Mask the putty and peel at gel-time. Then run the mat glass up the outside of the fin for better strength.
Bit of a long one here folks so have broken it into chapters. Check the description or the time bar for timestamps and chapters. Or.... watch the whole thing, this aint tik-tok 😆Cheers guys, appreciate you all!
Hey, it's me again, it's very cool how you did that, I was always against laminated fins, because I am traveling a lot with not to much space, but especially on like a fish or a longboard it's still very nice.
Just one thing:
Why don't you like rout a little slot for the fin?
Some little like 1cm deep slot, I think I would feel a bit more comfortable with the fin, because it's such a large fin wich is probably under some force.
Anyway, very nice video again and thanks for all the tips and tricks
I’m doing this epoxy board right now that is a repair job from another repairman. He put the fin box in about 6° out from vertical. It’s a 10’ log with exaggerated bottom contours at the tail section, so squaring off the board was becoming a hassle at best. He was very adamant about having the new fin box installed dead perfect as he had already spent a bunch of money on the original repair just to get back a botched box after 3 months in the shop. My solution was to perfectly level the board on the racks, find center and put a vertical laser on the dummy fin to set the box. Worked like a charm…. The shit I do for the boys!! 😂 looks great to the eye as well so now I’ll move on with life. Another great video man! My #1 channel when I need some inspiration and knowledge! 🤙🏽
O dayum, sounds like the bro got the uncle Tony special! That is so annoying, I can't imagine ever letting a board go out with a crooked cntr box?!? I actually did the same thing a couple of months ago, my jig was ever so slightly out at the top end of the route and it looked OK but with a straight edge, by the time it traveled to the nose of the 9'6 board, it was waaaay off. Very annoying but the only choice is to take the hit, route it out and re do it. Lazer level is the way, I've often thought about buying one to be 100% sure!
@@smallkinedings uncle Tony for sure man! And charged a butt load of cash too. Gnarly
Great video, great content. Congrats, man. Amazing job!
Cheers Andy!
Way to see it through, and exonerate all the shit to finish with a proud product and beautiful ol board
Yeew, thanks bud! Was stoked to bring this one back to life!
💪Great work 🤙
Cheers man!
Thanks so much for the indepth video. Really informative
My pleasure Derek!
awesome content... cool to see how you glass on fins....
These jobs happen pretty rarely and in between each glass on fin I do, I always see cool videos on how to do it, normally on instagram and think ''I'm gonna try that next time''. By the time next time comes around, I've forgotten what the technique is and who posted it so I end up doing it this way haha. The roving stage is tricky, especially keeping it tidy. I've seen some really cool techniques but I've forgotten them all! 😅
I'm probably not any different than you, if I ever have to glass on a fin I will have probably forgotten what I seen from this video... good job, I really admire your work.
Awesome
Videos are awesome man. Thank you 🤙🏼
Appreciate that Seth, many thanks!
thank you so much for such a informative video!🙌
My pleasure Jonny!
EPIC! Love these
That board was a saga and a half!
killer thanks
Thank YOU!
The outside skin of pour foam is like a smooth plastic nothing(resin, new foam) will stick to it. If you do multiple pours you need to abrade each pour before going over it. Do a sample test with some extra foam. You'll see it will not bond. Have you ever tried running your cloth on the bias 45/45 vs 0/90? The bias will turn the corner easier. 50% of the 0/90 is doing nothing, because its running parallel to the joint.
I did my second pour before the first had hardened so the skin had not yet developed. Definitely though, if left too long it needs to be sanded through the skin before anything can bond to it. Should have mentioned that in the video!
Hey brother
Always glad to see your videos
I could feel the relief that this ones done
I always felt that in a world where everyone made their own board everyone would have flat resin color finishes hahaha
Nobody likes doing tape work
And think of all the work you're making the tape farmers do!
I hope somebody surfs the s$$$T out of it man
Hey hey! Cheers man, was certainly a weight off the shoulders to see this one go. Confident that the owner will use this at least every week! 100% haha, if we all made our own boards they'd be pretty boring looking 😂
Very helpful videos, thanks! Can you please tell us were to get the fin angle gauge? Cheers
Pleasure! I got mine from surfboard studio in Victoria, Australia. If you're up north, greenlight surf supply has them and if neither of them are options, Amazon or eBay
This is probably a really dumb question, but is the hot coat the same resin mix as the lamination resin?
@@ptj6412 not a dumb question at all.
Sanding resin and laminating resin are different. I have a video on poly repairs for beginners (my logo is the thumbnail) that goes into it a bit.
Laminating resin will always remain tacky even after curing which allows you to add more resin and cloth to it after its cured. This tackiness is caused by the resins contact with the air.
Sanding resin contains a wax additive (waxed styrene) which floats to the top of your resin as it cures (imagine the skin on cold soup). This wax layer or soup skin creates a barrier between the resin and the air allowing for a smooth, non sticky sanding surface.
You can either buy pre mixed sanding resin or make your own by adding 2% wax additive to your standard laminating resin.
Hope that helps 🤙
Hello I have one question if I may. What is that composite you use to generate foam inside of the whole? I have been doing similar repairs but it is always q cell with foam :/ That seems much cleaner. Thank you"
Hey hey,
That's a 36kg 2 part expanding foam. I have a video on the stuff that covers most of the questions I get regularly about the stuff. It can definitely make life easier than cutting and shaping foam blocks, both have their places though 🤙
Tu meke bro,
Always replaced foam with foam, but the pour foam is the go. Going to use from now on. NZ supplier ?
Gday rob, missed your comment somehow! Good man with the foam replacement. I've actually just had to change supplier myself, luckily I have a buddy close by who's a freak and loves doing taxidermy 😂 for that reason I cant actually provide you with a supplier at this point for 56kg foams. I can for 34kg and 64kg though (hes just stopped selling the 56kg this month). If you want this 56kg stuff though, Google your nearest taxidermist and ask them for their foam supplier, they all seem to use the 56kg stuff! If you have no luck and wanna try the other stuff let me know and I can get you a contact.
Cheers man,
Will definitely hit those animal stuffer's up for there foam dealer.I think Norski is around 30kg+-. So maybe a good option for diy ? Thoughts ?
Trying to keep mine and the crews boards running in a low income area so appreciate your vids.
If you don’t mind me asking, how much did you charge?
A crate of mangos for this one and a six pack of green tea mochi 🍡 🥭
Good stuf!!
7:35 can you make a Video that explains how to use the (Angel Geije) Fin Angle Tool?
i havent figer it out how to mesure/use it. to mesur out the fin angel that i need, so i can install the Finn Box's. im soper cunfused, and can't find a Video that explanins it...
Thanks for eany tips and triks (:
Yup yup, can try and do that this weekend for ya
That wuld be Awlsome!!
6:27 hot melt Glue gun. Cant be any. Special type Made in the Phillipines
Super glue does the job usually, just gotta make sure I don't slack on keeping some on hand!
Thanks for these videos man. They're so good. Can't see why you don't have more views. You have helped me a lot though. Ill grab some merch. If you're ever in Melbourne I'll shout you a session at urbnsurf too. Thanks mate!
Unreal man, appreciate that very much and stoked you've gotten some stuff out of the channel! Did you just order some trucker hats?
This method was invented before the invention of Q-cell and microfiber. It's not really the strongest or best method in 2023. A putty made from microfibre is better and stronger. You can get the bevel right with a caulking tool. Mask the putty and peel at gel-time. Then run the mat glass up the outside of the fin for better strength.
Are you referring to this method instead of using fibreglass rovings?