Avoid This Common Shimano Crank Installation Pitfall
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Rank amateurs and seasoned vets alike are lulled into complacency by the simplicity of a Shimano crank install. There are a few pitfalls that are easily avoided. Here’s a big one: The plastic “safety” tab won’t snap down, and what that means. www.bbinfinite.com
Man I’m glad I randomly watched this. I’m installing my new Shimano crank and was making this very mistake without even realizing it. Thanks for the tip
This is why we make these videos. I am so glad we were able to help you.
I just had exactly the same experience. Thank you for this video
Good thing I watched your video after installing my bottom cranked this morning and now i just fixed at night just before bed lolI . Thankyou 🙏
Thankyou for this very important piece of knowledge
Great explanation Gary. As always great information videos. My bbright bottom bracket from bb infinite is as smooth as the day I installed 4 years ago. Thanks
The indexed spline and safety hook are later additions to the Hallowtech cranksets. Older 2000-ish cranksets don't have that. Not the end of the world if things come apart mid ride and you have a multi-tool to tighten things back up. In that generation cranksets, the fixing bolt was metal, so you could emergency-tighten it with a quarter coin w/o risk of stripping it.
Ah things were better. Surprise
ohhh very informative, I was planing to use some spacers so i could use my old Tiagra crank arms (165) on shimano 105, same PCD but there is 4ml diference Q-Factor: 146mm vs 1500, better to buy a new set with shorter crank instead
Thanks for the video
It all depends on what series Tiagra crank. If it's a Hollowtech2 it will simply work in any of our BB's, in BBRIght, BB30, whatever.
@@BBInfinite yeap i have Hollowtech 2 , should be ok then?if so should i use the spacers no?
@@ihov.rivera9924 You would only need a spacer in the non drive side if it's a triple crank. If it's a single, or a double, you will not use spacers at all.
Excellent short but highly informative tutorial. Thanks
figured I may need a different bottom bracket for my Surly LHT. I've never been able to get that tab down.
I absolutely love your videos. Day 1 with my BBIfinite T47E Shimano. Lovely to install and deliciously smooth.
Thank you for your uplifting feedback.
0:16 when you remove the non drive side crank arm, that O ring( shimano labeled it as Y1F316000 ) has a high chance to drop, just remember to put the ridge rubber side against the bottom bracket and the flat metal side against the crank arm, just like what is shown in this video.
I just had my crank completely slip, painful experience, the teeth all look sheared now, have the bike 8 months and think this explains what happened. Guess it's a trip to the shop tomorrow.
You can just buy the arm. The spindle is steel and will not be damaged, just the arm.
Japanese people thinking about everything. I once had a crank always coming loose. Also loosing that plastic tensioning nut. Too cheap too buy a new crank. So I smacked in a star nut instead and tensioned it with a top cap. Actually looked quite good for being a hack
Honestly thought this was another annoying video that you skip after three seconds, like anything else you search on google now days comes up youtube as an ad, every other ad is what is BB right. Instead of skipping that ad I found this or it found me, and it was a pretty common informative video..
Great Explanation , Thank You !! 🙌🏼🚴🏽🚴🏽🚴🏽
my M5100 crank fell off during a downhill ride. can you imagine how scary it is, if your crank falls off during the downhill ride?
i checked the crank and the thread was busted trough halfway.
Sounds like you shouldn't use the crank anymore.
@@BBInfinite well, if your pockets are empty, you gotta use whats there. believe it or not, 6 months later im still riding with the same crankset because i had to buy other bikeparts first... and half of the thread is still there 🤣
@@Liqweed1337 Be careful, my friend.
My left crank arm on my GRX 600 wont fit in. I think threads from the arm are damaged. It also suddenly fell off riding uphill. The two bolts are still intact when the arm came out.
@@warpampeeLikewise with my GRX 400. Did you find out why it came loose?
When i install the crankset (what i think is correctly), screw in the hollowtech cap finger tight, and tighten the screws on the non-drive side crank to 12-14nm the small pin is able to fit down into the hole. However, with everything fully tight i can lift the pin with a flathead screwdriver meaning the gap around the rubber pin hasn't closed on tightening the crank arm. Is this okay? On my much older bike the pin would be keot snug by pressure from the crank
Good video, a view of the correct placement from inside the arm would have made this a perfect video.
That small plastic component of my crank arm is broken, if I want to look for replacement of that small component, what is its name? Is it sold separately from the crankset?
It’s a Shimano FC-M580, and costs about £3-£5 here in the U.K.
Beautiful crank arm
Cool. Very nice job.
I've run into this problem, is there a way of replacing the crank spindle for a longer one?
it has to be 123 comment. Roadbike Trek 1.2 from 2010. went from Shimano Ultegra 6700 bottom bracket 68mm English tread what I bought end of 2014 for £10.99 and replaced it April 2024 with BBR60 for £18.64 and had to buy tool for TL-FC37 for £19 plus delivery. Crank is shimano Tiagra what worked fine with Ultegra 6700 bracket. With new BBR60 bracket it will not go in fully on drive (chain) side. I hammered it in quite hard (had a moment after 2 hours of struggle). still have a gap of 2mm on drive side between frame and inner side crank/sprocket? On left side the little black piece sits nicely in. I torqued everything according to specs. 34 (35-50 says)Nm bottom bracket and 12-14Nm pedal crank, 07-1.5Nm the cap. Should I disassemble it and smash it in more of should I fit a spacer in drive side even it says with 68mm might need spacer fro triples on left side (what I don't have). thanks for comments
thanks man big life saver
So, the spline doesn’t seat, unless the tab is fitted in ?
The tab will push in, and engage, once the minimum insertion point is reached. This is what Shimano has determined is the minimum spline engagement for safe operation.
Hi sir , I dont have this plate, everytime I ride my mountainbike my left crank arm keeps faliing. What should I do?
The clip is a last ditch safety measure. It doesn't keep the arm tight. If the arm is loosening as you ride, this indicates the dual pinch bolt are not tightened adequately (14nm). If the bolts are tight, but the arm works loose, remove the arm and inspect the splines to see if they are in good shape and present.
My crank has fallen off several times. I look closely to have this part right and then tighten it as fast as I can but it still comes loose. Any ideas? Maybe lock tide?
If your crank is a Shimano HollowTech2 type, and the arm keep falling off, that can only mean that the pinch bolts are not tightened to the proper torque specs. If the crank is getting full spline engagement as shown in the video, and the pinch bolts are tight, it's impossible for the crank arm to come off. Check your crank for this: ruclips.net/video/TENAyaOi9DE/видео.html
Great video but Hambini would have done this in a 3 part 2 hour each video with 55 powerpoint slides and 17 stories about Belinda with the big bazookas.
🤣
Dont forget the Disney Princess blanket.
@@scottpratico1315 Hambini's mf Disney princess blanket :D :D :D
Gotcha. Good tip. Thanks
Every forum and shimano itself insist that for a 68mm bb you need two spacers on the right hand side and one on the left. For my generic external bb cups I found this pushed the chain line out too far. I went down to one on the drive side and this made that better but with the spacer on the non drive side the arms protrudes around 4mm from the end of the spindle. I don't know if this is normal or if I should have it flush with the arms.many videos I see have them like this. What's the point in having a spacer on the non drive side? Unless Yr spindle is protruding beyond the crank arm?
Whenever you are trying to dial chain line it is important to check the group set manufacturer's specification that will show a measurement from the centerline of the frame to the inner cheek of the largest, or only, chain ring. For road bikes this has always been 43.5mm, for instance. So, do yourself a favor and find the published numbers for your setup and dial it in from there. Chainline cannot be eyeballed.
Shimano cranks are sized for specific bottom bracket widths and types, at least for 24mm spindles that use hollowtech bottom brackets. I reduced my chainline by only placing one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side and moved the second spacer to the non-drive side. This offset my crankset slightly but results in the same overall bottom bracket width and amount of preload on the bb bearings. For 73mm bottom brackets, Shimano recommends only one 2.5mm on the drive side and no spacer on non-drive side. I've moved the single spacer from drive to non-drive side in order to reduce chain line by 2.5mm. Again the total width stays the same. Shimano uses an internal plastic sleeve inside the bb so the width must remain the same. If you start removing spacers without placing them on the other side, the internal sleeve will not fit.
Mine I can't push in that plastic thingy,so just left it as it is.😢
Wow, a very refreshing and condos video. Thanks
concise..
@@rickdoehler502 Thank you. We appreciate the positive feedback. We're glad you enjoyed the video and found it informative.
Mine came from the LBS miss installed and stripped out my left side crank.
We hear the old "1 hr into the ride, the crank arm fell off" all of the time. Guys, ladies, fellas...the only way a Shimano non-drive-side crank arm just falls off is if the mechanic neglects to tighten it to spec. They just snugged it, then forgot to torque it to 12-14Nm per bolt. When they come off like this a lot of damage can happen to the splines and threads.
@@BBInfinite that’s likely how the original install was by the LBS. I called and asked about other torque specs and they said they didn’t know they just know by doing. Threads probably damaged then. I torque to 14in/lbs
@@307.William The Shimano NDS crank arm is held on by two opposing pinch bolts. The spec is 14Nm. Nm and inch lbs are vastly different. 14Nm is 124 in/lbs, or 10 ft-lbs.
@@BBInfinite yes I meant Nm. My bad.
Can a 1x specific frame run a 3x if the rings don't hit the chain stay? I have a 1x frame being built and was curious
If it's 1x specific, does it have a way to attach the front derailleur? If yes, with a clamp or some such, then sure, if nothing hits and it shifts, run it.
@@BBInfinite word
Nice Video, may I ask, currently my Crank Arm is very near the rear derailleur mechanism and there are scratches of my crank arm due to the close gap with the derailuer.
I have attempted to use 1mm spacer but due to the spacer I can't close the Crank Arm safety pin.
So the only way out is to change a smaller length bottom bracket and then add a spacer? Currently I am using BBR60 with Shimano 105.
Appreciate your valuable input.
TIA.
So the inside of the crank arm is hitting the front derailleur as you pedal? It's BBR06, but is it Italian or BSA? I'll tell you what, please email us at info@bbinfinite.com about this. We'll help you.
yes
So would you say if I am able to push the pin down that my BB are screwed correctly and also the crank axle is pushed far enough from the right side into the BB? So Pin can be pushed down = installation correctly done?
For the full, proper setup, watch this: ruclips.net/video/ZC-FOkK6PHg/видео.html
Isn't that obvious, you can't fit any bottom bracket if its TOO SHORT
Obvious to you is not obvious to someone else.
@@BBInfinite You can't educate bacon
What makes your bb better than hambini Bb?
Who is Hambini? Never heard of him.
Hello sir just want to ask if R7000 left arm is also compatible with a 5800 model crank? I do have a broken spline due to that mistake.. and i cant find any 5800 left arm replacement.. thank you in advance
You can put any HT2 crank arm on any HT2 crank set. 105 arm on Ultegra, or DA, or Tiagra. No problem.
Thanks a lot sir. Appreciate it
What if I used an spacer? Would it still fall off?
These cranks can't be spaced much. You'd have to know your starting point. If the BB fully installed was 92.5mm wide on a road bike, you could put a 1mm spacer in it, but not much more.
Hey, what if i had a specific problem with my bbinfinite bb30 to shimano crank arm? How did I supposed to solve this problem. Thanks
I use shimano GRX 810 crankset and it wont get in as much on the left side of the crank
@@fikrysakti4313 Please email us at info@bbinfinite.com or message us on FB. We can help you out a lot better and faster there than here. Thank you.
Campagnolo Ultra Torque rules
UltraTorque is the most correct crank/bearings set up, by the book, there is. If only Campy had some industry clout, maybe they would have had some control over the BB designs that rolled out over the last 20 years that were utterly incompatible with their great design. Thank goodness T47 has come. It's perfect for the UT cranks.
Thx!!! 👌👌👍👍
The more specialist tools involved to maintain a bike the more reason not to get it in the first place
my kind of video. I changed my spacer from 2.5mm to 1.8mm on non-drive side and that 'safety tab' went down. Let's go Brandon.
I'm glad you found this helpful. Thank you for the feedback.
I have this problem i cant fix it
If it's a road bike, measure the overall width of the BB shell including the outermost interfaces the crank touches. If it's much bigger than 93mm, you've got a problem, but one that can be solved.
@@BBInfinite its a mtb my crankset is deore m6000 with bb52
@@subbysibuyas1916 If you have an excessive number of spacers installed you will have the problem mentioned in the video
@@BBInfinite should i remove all my spacer?
@@BBInfinite i have 68mm bb shell how many spacers do u suggest and what sizes is good for my bb
All this new age crap. Nothing works. Nothing but problems. Just problems. And the new age cyclists go along with same and eschew traditional design from the past which was simple, straightforward, impeccably dependable.
I agree, I am old school about to change to a double chainset from a bad experience of 1x whatever! New doesn't mean better. My brothers old BSA Tour of Britain in the 70's was a 1x5, nothing new under the sun.
I've always thought the plastic tab on Shimano cranks was an odd design to say the least.
fast, short and accurate! thanks
Extremely useful and delightfully succinct.
I did a youtube search on the part, but this was the top video that came up and exactly the problem I was having. Perfect video. Short and concise. Thanks!
Fabulous. We're so glad we were able to help you.
That's may problem .How can I fix this ?
Depends on the "problem" you mean.
Thanks for explaining this. I'm new to Shimano Hollowtech II technology and I'm planning to build a 2x10 drivetrain with a used Shimano Deore FC-M615 2x10 crankset that is missing the crankarm safety pin. Now I will be sure to purchase a new crankarm pin. Before watching this video I wasn't sure what the pin was for. Now I know👍🚴♂️
10:00hrs, 04/27/2024
Thanks friend, for the very helpful teaching on the function of that plastic indicator in the cinch space!
That’s not the problem I had but I understand how it works so I fixed it thanks
Last night I had to pull off my Shimano crank arms to replace the chain rings. During the reinstall, which seemed to go smoothly, I forgot to install the little clip - oops! I took it out for a test ride before realizing what I'd done. It was a short ride, but I did attempt a short steep climb to make sure my drivetrain was working under stress. It performed fine, but I hope nothing is damaged. This morning I went on to RUclips hoping to find a video that explained that clip, which I've never seen before, as this is my first Hollotech removal. I found your video, and I couldn't have asked for a more perfect video and explanation - thank you. Now it is off the shop to correct my mistake!
Excellent, we are so glad we could help with our video.
Very helpful, thanks!
Oh I’ll make it fit
Could this be my problem when I pedal or push bike backwards the chain drops down a few gears on the rear cogs, but would mention my crank is the square tapered spline with threaded hole in the ends to bolt on the crank arm, thanks
The first thing I would do is look at chain wear. If it is excessive the chain can spontaneously drop off cogs. The next thing I would check is the rear derailleur hanger alignment. These would be the two main things that would cause this. If the chainline is radically misaligned this can also cause it as you are supposing here. So if this bike was assembled recently this could be a problem, but if it had been assembled and ridden for a long time and this problem has just recently started I would go with the first two.
A problem with wheel manufacturing adapters
We haven't done an extensive study to know which brand or type of adapters are particularly problematic. We say avoid them altogether. We recommend getting a BB that matches a specific crank standard, like Dub, for instance, to a specific BB standard, such as BBBright or BB92. We look at it like this: creaks are from movement, so cut down on the parts until nothing can move, except the bearings.
I installed my shimano crank properly snug in the spline, but i dont have this plastic, would it cause problems?
If the plastic tab is missing that's not a big deal. It's there to stop the crank arm from falling off if the two pinch bolts were loose and the plastic end bolt was missing. So, don't leave the bolts loose and you'll be fine.
@@BBInfinite came here for this question. Thanks! My plastic piece is gone and crank fell off recently. Will just torque to spec and ride on!
@@russellholt5004 Yeah, you'll have zero issues. Two bolts tightened to 14nm is more than enough to retain the arm indefinitely.
Wow I am running into this exact problem. I’m using a Token Ninja BB86 bottom bracket which is a thread-together.
Same thing happen to my Shimano crank arm, it is still safe to ride if I cant push the pin down ? How to fix it thanks.
Clear and helpful, thank you.
I installed a Dura Ace 9100 crank on my Cannondale CAAD 12. I used the Wheels Inc. BB 30 adapters which I believe is accepted practice. Anyway, the safety tab pin was off by about 2mm outboard. The cranks are tight to the adapters, and I am reluctant to hit the crank with a mallet . . . so I just used the crank arm fixing bolt hand tight and tightened the two bolts on the crank arm as instructed. No shifting problems. However, after riding for about a year the crank arm bolt cracked (the mushroom top separated from the threaded barrel) and the crank arm almost fell off. I just replaced the fixing bolt and am about to go for a ride with no safety pin. Any ideas as to what caused my problem. Could I drill out the little pin hole in the crank axle so the pin would engage? Anyway, thanks for listening..
The CAAD12 is BB30A. If you are using BB30 adapters...that's your problem right there. I suspect you meant to say BB30A adapters, and so the solution is to 1. Buy our BB30A to Shimano because it's correct 2. File down the outer face of non drive side adapter. This will only work if you have the black plastic adapters: If you measure the distance between the faces of the adapters while in place it should be 90-91mm. If it more than that, measure from the center of the bb shell to the faced of DS adapter. If it's not 45mm, file it down until it is. Now the chain line will be correct. I like to use 100 grit sand paper for this, with the paper flat on table top, keeping the faced of the work piece dead flat against the paper, rotating the workpiece as you sand back and forth. Check to see if the safety tap will snap down after this. If it does, just ride it. If not, leave the DS alone and just file a bit off the NDS adapter this time until snaps down.
@@BBInfinite Thanks for taking the time to write that very detailed explanation. I am a half fast amateur bike mechanic and although I do all my own maintenance, I definitely can get things wrong. I'll have to do some research to learn more about bb30 vs bb30A. I did think of sanding down the face of the NDS adapter, but I wasn't sure if that was kosher. Anyway, I will check my receipts and see which adaptor I bought. I honestly don't remember that Wheels Inc offered a choice. Perhaps they did and I just didn't have the knowledge to understand the difference, Anyhow, I will check it out and thanks again!
@@joebikeguy6669 No problem. The dead giveaway will be that the adapters will be must different thicknesses. The DS will stick out about 10mm or so. The NDS will be much narrower, about 5mm or so. I think you've got the right ones, they're just out of spec a bit.
This may be the most informative RUclips video I have ever seen. I recently had the left crank arm just fall off my Canyon Grail only a couple of blocks into a ride. I had just done maintenance right before the ride. Lubed the chain, checked shifting. I am a bike tech. but was out of the game for awhile and there is a lot of technology to catch up on. So, the crankset is Shimano GRX 600 1x and when I first checked for the issue I was confused. One pinch bolt was slightly loose, the other tight. The preload/dustcap was intact on the arm. Then I looked at the arm, the splines. Yeah, they are receded into the arm and it looks like there was some shearing but I never noticed it while riding, this bike is a champ, I thought. So then I go to Shimano and look up the specs and blow up of the GRX 600. Yep, there is a 'plate'. Huh, I go back to the arm, bolts still attached and guess what? No plate. I have four Canyons, Exceed CF 7.0, Lux CF 6.0, Grand Canyon and the Grail 7.0. Bought in that order. I love Canyon for everything but this is unnerving. I had a hiccup with them when a cable hold down bolt was not installed properly on a dropper lever for the Grand Canyon and they reimbursed me for getting a Wolf Tooth. But this is not good. Still waiting for a response. In the meantime I decided to go with the Shimano GRX 810 and I will install it myself. Side note: another reason your video is so important is that I was going to change the bottom bracket also. But I won't because the Grail comes with a Token Ninja Lite(flush mount). That is the only BB I can use. Your video was very helpful, thank you and keep up the good work. Sincerely, old bike guy.
Great feedback, and thank you. As you experienced, if the black plastic "retainer" plate is missing from the split in the NDS arm, it's because it would not lock down, so the mechanic left it out rather than addressing the problem indicated by the plate's condition. As for the BB: The best choice for a Canyon Grail is one of our 1pc BB86 module. A lot of Grail riders will attest.
Was your left crank arm screwed? Same thing happened to me after improperly re installing my crank
I cant push it in even when the left crank is not attached to the axle :(
Nwm it just needs a little force
Looks like I wont be getting Shimano cranks ever.
This video is a life saver. Good thing I found this video before I install my crankset because I've read issues about preload caps falling off their crankset so this is the reason why, they didn't install their cranks properly.