Other people have said the DAP plastic wood is actually one of the worst fillers. I haven't tried it personally, but probably won't bother. I know from personal experience that the Elmer's "Stainable" wood filler is garbage. I have some Famowood filler that others have said is probably the best or in the top 2. I'll try it next time I need filler and see how it works.
Thanks! This is a Minwax Charcoal Grey stain with a polyurethane finish. The table is made from redwood, so the grey stain and red wood made for a blueish grey result.
It would have been helpful if you had actually demonstrated the use of stain on the wood filler.....I am using the same wood filler for a ding in a guitar body, I have it sanded down to a 1500 finish and it will not take any stain....I don't really see how it could, It dries rock hard and there is no wood fibers to actually take the stain, it appears the acetone base has glues in it also that seal up all the pores....The only way it seems like it could work is if I mixed the stain in the wood filler before I applied it....but then it might not dry properly.
I’m repairing my 60’s pool table and I have a few questions if you don’t mind. The entire outside of the table has a layer of veneer which has a very nice wood grain look to it. It’s stained, but it has a lot of gouges/dings/chipping. Do you have any recommendations for using a specific wood filler on veneer? I would like to stain it after, but some of the spots are bad enough that it will be very noticeable unless I can find a way to “match” the wood grain look. Any help would be appreciated!!
Unfortunately, it is very very hard to try and mimic or match a wood grain look with filler. You can try but it might not look very good. More than likely, your best bet is a stainable wood filler.
@@SawsHub I’m going to try Elmers wood filler which says it is sandable and stainable. Would it be wise to use a gel stain or would a water based be fine? Thanks for the reply and let me know if you have any other tips for my project!
If you can buy a sheet of veneer with the same approximate species/wood grain you can splice and glue in pieces of the replacement veneer. Veneers are expensive, but if you are doing small repairs, a small sheet might work for your entire project! It's not perfect looking, but very hard to notice if you do it and match the stain. If there are slight (Not deep) dents, you can apply a wet cloth and steam them out with a hot iron. It might take multiple attempts, but steam will raise dents. If the wood is gouged of course, there is no way of steam replacing missing wood.
Either Famowood or Minwax, either would work www.amazon.com/dp/B004RFXQUA?tag=sawshub-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKMZRG?tag=sawshub-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
That stuff is not good. I used it for a ballister repair and it didn’t hold my stain at all. Now I have to scrape it out and go buy some better wood filler. Giant light spots.
We tested 5 different fillers and this one was the best. I could go either way between the Famowood and the Minwax, both were clearly better than all the others.
I'm using the Minwax wood conditioner and oil stain products on a pine table top, that being the case, I figure using Minwax stainable wood filler makes the most sense. You can be sure they developed their wood filler to be compatible with their stains, which is why I'm also using their wood conditioner. Of note: Home Depot sells the Minwax stains, but only sells Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner, which makes no sense at all in the world of compatibility, as these very products highly recommend you use their wood stains in conjunction with their conditioner to eliminate questionable results. By the way, the Minwax stainable wood filler, states it can be used with either water or oil based stains. You might want to try a demo of using Minwax, and non Minwax, oil and water based stains with their wood filler to compare the results and verify the accuracy of that claim?
Famawood is the best by far. Water based so it doesn’t dry out as fast as the ones with acetone.multiple colors to take the stain better. Painter 30years exp.
Because I primarily reclaimed wood for my projects (everyone likes a story with their purchase) I'm in desperate need for a wood filler that wont shrink...and will take a darn stain! I'm going to try this product thanks to your video. Also thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@4:13 You filled the knot with wood filler, but you left a large void to the side of it? Or did it shrink?
Perfect. Just what I was looking for
Said you applied several layers of wood filler. Does that mean you let each layer dry before adding more?
Yes correct
Do you use wood filler before or after the wood conditioner?
I have a wooden cup that has a hair line crack. If I used this, once dry is it safe to use to drink out of?
As long as it cures not just dry but cured. May take a week to two weeks. It would be safe to drink from.
Time will tell
Time will tell
I have used Dap it is terrible, it spreads horribly. It also dries too fast making spreading it hard.
If its drying too fast add some acetone. I have a video on dried out wood filler that could help you. Feel free to check it out
could I use a wood filler between stain coats? I forgot to put it on before first stain coat. is it still doable?
Sure!
Other people have said the DAP plastic wood is actually one of the worst fillers. I haven't tried it personally, but probably won't bother. I know from personal experience that the Elmer's "Stainable" wood filler is garbage. I have some Famowood filler that others have said is probably the best or in the top 2. I'll try it next time I need filler and see how it works.
We love Famowood, along with the classic Minwax. We're going to be publishing a side by side comparison of the two in just a few weeks
Thank you for sharing your experience!
My pleasure!
That table is beautiful! What color stain and what finish coat did you use on it? Thanks for the helpful video!
Thanks! This is a Minwax Charcoal Grey stain with a polyurethane finish. The table is made from redwood, so the grey stain and red wood made for a blueish grey result.
It would have been helpful if you had actually demonstrated the use of stain on the wood filler.....I am using the same wood filler for a ding in a guitar body, I have it sanded down to a 1500 finish and it will not take any stain....I don't really see how it could, It dries rock hard and there is no wood fibers to actually take the stain, it appears the acetone base has glues in it also that seal up all the pores....The only way it seems like it could work is if I mixed the stain in the wood filler before I applied it....but then it might not dry properly.
For a small ding in wood a good tip is to use a moist rag or towel and a steam iron.
I’m repairing my 60’s pool table and I have a few questions if you don’t mind. The entire outside of the table has a layer of veneer which has a very nice wood grain look to it. It’s stained, but it has a lot of gouges/dings/chipping.
Do you have any recommendations for using a specific wood filler on veneer? I would like to stain it after, but some of the spots are bad enough that it will be very noticeable unless I can find a way to “match” the wood grain look.
Any help would be appreciated!!
Unfortunately, it is very very hard to try and mimic or match a wood grain look with filler. You can try but it might not look very good. More than likely, your best bet is a stainable wood filler.
@@SawsHub I’m going to try Elmers wood filler which says it is sandable and stainable.
Would it be wise to use a gel stain or would a water based be fine?
Thanks for the reply and let me know if you have any other tips for my project!
If you can buy a sheet of veneer with the same approximate species/wood grain you can splice and glue in pieces of the replacement veneer. Veneers are expensive, but if you are doing small repairs, a small sheet might work for your entire project! It's not perfect looking, but very hard to notice if you do it and match the stain.
If there are slight (Not deep) dents, you can apply a wet cloth and steam them out with a hot iron. It might take multiple attempts, but steam will raise dents. If the wood is gouged of course, there is no way of steam replacing missing wood.
Thanks
No problem
thanks for the video man
You bet!
WHAT PRODUCT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND FOR CRACKS IN REDWOOD DECKING?
Either Famowood or Minwax, either would work
www.amazon.com/dp/B004RFXQUA?tag=sawshub-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKMZRG?tag=sawshub-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
That stuff is not good. I used it for a ballister repair and it didn’t hold my stain at all. Now I have to scrape it out and go buy some better wood filler. Giant light spots.
We tested 5 different fillers and this one was the best. I could go either way between the Famowood and the Minwax, both were clearly better than all the others.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure!
Every video, and I mean every video on this subject says completely different things.
Why didn't you fill the whole hole
I'm using the Minwax wood conditioner and oil stain products on a pine table top, that being the case, I figure using Minwax stainable wood filler makes the most sense. You can be sure they developed their wood filler to be compatible with their stains, which is why I'm also using their wood conditioner.
Of note: Home Depot sells the Minwax stains, but only sells Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner, which makes no sense at all in the world of compatibility, as these very products highly recommend you use their wood stains in conjunction with their conditioner to eliminate questionable results.
By the way, the Minwax stainable wood filler, states it can be used with either water or oil based stains. You might want to try a demo of using Minwax, and non Minwax, oil and water based stains with their wood filler to compare the results and verify the accuracy of that claim?
Famawood is the best by far. Water based so it doesn’t dry out as fast as the ones with acetone.multiple colors to take the stain better.
Painter 30years exp.
Because I primarily reclaimed wood for my projects (everyone likes a story with their purchase) I'm in desperate need for a wood filler that wont shrink...and will take a darn stain!
I'm going to try this product thanks to your video. Also thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Good luck!