Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 14 Panels and Disappointment
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- Опубликовано: 28 дек 2024
- Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 14 Panels and Disappointment
This is the fourteenth of several videos where I will build a Voron 2.4 350 and show step by step. This step is installing the panels and doors. I also run into a problem.
The build parts are from the sourcing guide recommended vendors.
I just started using DaVinci Resolve so I'm a noob at it. Let me know what I'm doing right and wrong please. I want to get better at this.
My mailing address if you want to send me something cool:
Scott Corn
5411 State Route 261 #622
Newburgh, IN. 47629
A Link to all Voron information:
www.vorondesign...
I use Polymaker ASA for most of my prints. Affiliate link.
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us.polymaker.com?aff=345
Tools I use with affiliate links. Helps me out costs you nothing.
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Hakko FX888D Soldering Station amzn.to/3D38gJ7 (Works with heat-set tips)
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IWISS IWS-3220M Micro Connector Pin Crimper 32-20AWG amzn.to/3Z5wo77
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Disappointments or not, it is a magical moment when you see your machine working the first time.. thanks to these videos I got to experience that 2 days ago.. now reprinting with it the last parts as the quality already seems pretty good.. I think PLA is fine for rest of the parts..super big thanks!
Glad to help!
Scott I have followed your guides from the start building my 350 Formbot kit. I couldn't get as far as I have done without your video guides so a big thank you there. Can't wait for the Klicky Probe guide :)
Great to hear! Thank you.
The bed mesh process, with ample probe points took care of my el-chepo bed.
I did a 7,7 and it still didn’t fix it for me. Did you go larger than that? I know it applied because it shifted from good in the center and bad on the corners to bad in the center to mostly good on the corners.
@@scottcorn I did that initially, then went back to 3/3. I did a post on the voron redit going over the process. For me, the key was setting the relative bed index to the highest point...and heat soaking the entire system for 20 minutes before taking the mesh. So I turn it on, let it heat and the build mesh is part of the print start macro. I can link you my post if you can't find it and are interested.
@@Blueridgedog if you would post the link please. I do the heat soak. I’ve seen first hand how much difference it makes. Just want to make sure I didn’t overlook anything.
Hi Scott. I would just like to thank you very much for your vids. They are now my bible! Built my Voron based on your vids and although I did strike problems with sensors, wiring, belt tension, etc. It is well worth going through that minor pain as a learning experience. I think I am seated pretty well to take care of my Voron with some reasonable knowledge now. Probably quite odd for some to understand but I started printing straight away with PETG, not PLA. I am not a fan of PLA and PETG is my go to filament. The Voron is perfectly happy using it and awesome prints straight up. FYI, I have been printing for 10 years and this Voron is to take over the main printing role of my Prusa I3mk3 (which has been great - over 500 print days of printing on it, so I can't complain). Voron will half my print times whilst maintaining quality. Anyway, thanks again. Cheers.
Hope you get the bed fixed, I have only this vid and the prior to go before my one is fully built and hoping my bed is flat now!
I have a quality bed shipping probably today. I knew that I shouldn't use that bed when I put it in. I just told myself the mesh would take care of it at least for a while. At least with the default probe it just couldn't. Oh well I learn from my mistakes. :)
Great job Scott, looking forward to the next video.
Thank you Kyle. Trying to get the klicky stuff printed in the next couple of days.
Great video series Scott, It has helped me tremendously during my build basoed on a "VR parts" kit from Germany seller (Don't buy that one). The detailed approach you have taken is what makes theese videos so useful. I can´t wait to have my printer up and running. currently tuning a bit to get my hinges printed in a decent quality. Keep up the great work!
Glad it helped and thank you.
Hey @Scott great video, what are the instructions to get the plexiglass dimensions. I am trying to get them made But for 300 voron 2.4r2 also how thick are you sheets? I would appricieate the light :)
The Formbot kit for the 2.4.R2 supplies 1mm foam for the back panel not sure why. But forgot to cross reference with the manual(p.269) so now I am short of foam so just be aware if you are using this guide for the R2. Had to look up what janky means(mentioned in one of your previous videos), here in Australia we tend to be a little more colourful but I will refrain from describing the fiddling I needed to install those door hinge corners. Great video as always.
Thank you! I kind of janked mine up on the sides. I wanted more clearance so I doubled up the foam.
crack on Scott I need to know what camera I'm buying 🤣. Seriously, best Voron videos I've come across & helped me loads. Just about to tape up my panels for the PID tuning.
Great to hear and thank you! I got the heater installed and wired on the new bed last night. Tonight I'll do the heat soak thing and install it.
Scott great series of video in detail for Voron 2.4 can you please make one for installing Klicky prob install and setup Thank you
I'm working on one now. I'm running a little behind one this one. Too much life things in the way. lol
Hello from a fellow Hoosier! I just ordered my Voron kit. Is there a good way to verify bed flatness prior to the installation? I guess I could lay it on my table saw or jointer bed. I was considering an upgraded bed, but that price is salty.
Great video, can't wait for the klicky. I have tried a lot of different types of probes and klicky is my favorite.
Thank you. The stock probe works ok if you heat soak it for at least 20 minutes. I'm hoping to have to do less of that with the klicky probe.
Hello, you can correct the deviation of the bed by putting some wings of klapton tape on the bottom of the metal sheet. In the deepest points. Good work!
Thanks for the tips!
Are you not going to be putting skirts / fans on?
Yes, it will be the first video after I get the bed issue fixed. With this current bed printing the skirts would not turn out well. I will put the skirts on before doing the advanced tuning video.
I was waiting for this video eagerly. Sad to see u met different problems than mine. I had a tough learning curve with the hotend, fine tuning, clogs, z offset, bed adhesion, etc. which finally settled all of it yesterday. Im curious at your strict requirement for the ultraflatness of the bed. May i know why and your plans for the future prints?
Thank you.
My old printer had a less than flat bed. I was always fighting with it and the bed leveling system on large prints. Always ended up giving up in frustration with parts coming loose so I'm a bit overly sensitive to crappy beds. One thing I also didn't go into in the video was this bed is also getting worse over time. It went from .18 to .19 in one tuning session. So the problems of leveling are only going to get worse. It just wasn't a cast bed as represented when I bought it.
As far as large prints goes, the largest at the moment is a Nevermore for the printer. I'm sure I will come up with some larger prints once I get dialed in.
One of the first tips for good ABS printing is: calibrate your extruder steps accurately then in the slicer set the (Flow, Extrusion Multiplier, Flow Ratio etc) depending on what slicer you use, to something around 93% or 0.93 to start and then use one of the filament tuning guides to get the value for your material and extruder. ABS at 100% flow prints terribly, which is most likely why the print in place parts didn't work.
Before buying a new bed its always advisable to check your gantry assembly and rail install.
It is possible to remove the silicon heater and use it again. Keenovo have a guide on their website
i know im late to this video, but i dont understand why you think .2 off on the bed is unworkable? I have klipper on a cheap Chinese printer of mine, that has .7 variance in the bed, and the software is able to give perfect first layer height across the entire bed. Id be glad to have a bed that's only .2 off.
It was growing worse with every heating. I couldn't get a decent first layer on larger parts. I could have done a bed mesh at the start of each print and probably survived, but I chose to replace it. It's on a shelf as a spare now.
@@scottcorn Hi Scott, I agree with HazedHoonigan, are you sure that the mesh is applied to the print? In my first printer with klipper i make some mistakes and in the first trials the mesh is not working (the printer does the mesh, but is not taking into account). Currently my voron have 0,13 of deviation on the bed and i'm getting a perfect first layer.
Also, follow the ellis guide to tunning (pressure advance and extrusion multiplier), with that i get very good results.
Interesting video. Do you know of any tutorials on how to set up Bed_Mesh?
I go over it some, but nothing specific to just that. I am working on a video on running an auto bed mesh at each print. Klipper is slowly heading this way. They have turned off the default bed level loading now. I have a video on a v0.2 build to finish first.
@@scottcorn Ok thanks. The bit I have seen looks pretty straight ahead but says to add some code within printer.cfg. Not sure where that would go or if it could just go anywhere. Anyway got my first prints today - pretty exciting after so many hours of build. Did those in PLA. Trying to get some ABS done now - cross my fingers it will stick to the bed. ;o)
How long was the soak before mesh?
20 minutes plus each time. Nozzle always in the center of the bed 8 - 10mm from the bed. Not sure why the mesh isn't fully compensating for the current warp. It seems like it should.
I have not seen al your videos so just going to ask the general questions for the bed:
I assume you got a tooling plate ATM?
With 2x mgn9 it's possible to have a misaligned rail
X extrusion could be bent google: "High on One Side and Low on the Other (Twisted X Extrusion)"
Bed screws leave loose with the first heat soak and after ~2 hours tighten 1 and 2 should snug and the last one loose
When I purchased the build plate last year it was said to be a cast tooling plate. It is not. I did the proper bed tightening only an hour or so on the soak. With a quality steel ruler you can see more than 1mm dip in the middle.
@@scottcornOkay if you can see the dip then we know for sure the bed is bad, but I still recommend looking up: "possible misalignment of rails causing apparent twist"
Since the mesh wasn't able to compensate for the warped bed
Thank you I will research that. I am struggling to get the center back to printing well so there may more to it.
i didnt use hammer nuts for my panels bc they just never seem to set right so i just used my roll in nuts
I have a lot of roll nuts I could have used. Mine are just so in and out of spec I grew tired of having to try three before one would fit. lol
@Rob I'll take a look at them. I like the modded snap latches also. I'm trying to do this stock for documentation purposes. I'm also not sure I want to use PLA anymore. With the exception of my bed problem the ABS has looked and printed great. (as long as I'm in the center of the bed)
on the back panel you should use 1mm foam not 3mm like you used..
I see the manual now calls for 1mm. The old manual didn't show the panels and only 3mm was specified in the pre r2 BOM. I'm unsure why they would want 1mm for the back?
Great video! You will really like the MRW bed... Taco beds aren't fun.
I think so too. I hated the taco bed on my last printer. It kept me from printing the things I wanted. I want to not have that one this one. lol
Why they call those hammerhead nuts, those are drop-in ones...
Did I misname them somewhere in the video?
@@scottcorn I think you did once or twice and the official guide did as well.