Machining Windy Hill Foundry Machinist Jack Patterns
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- #KilroysShop #WindyHillFoundry A fun projects trying something new. Making 'super-soft' jaws for work holding a challenging piece, the machinist jack castings done for me by my friend Clarke Easterling at Windy Hill Foundry. Always wanted to try something like this, so come along and see if it works!
Windyhill Foundry
/ @windyhillfoundry5940
Nice idea James, worked great. Those will be nice jacks.
Great video! I loved that we ended up using the pattern as risers in our molds as well! Talk to you soon!
Hi ya Gypsy!! You need to get a video going. We would like to see what you are up to!!
Amazing. I first thought "He's crazy, that thermoplastic going to vaporize." Then when you mentioned the metal's melting temp, "Wow, that will work."
It did work quite well, bound to be many more applications.
Very clever way to hold these👍
Pretty slick idea👍🏼
Nice soft jaws , about $ 150 , the freight is twice the cost of the jaws . We get shafted big time here ! Nice end mill . Great idea to hold a funky shaped part . Cheers .
Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop. Australia tax. The price we pay for clean air and kookaburras :-D
@@seanrodden6151 ....and bush fires
Excellent instructional information.
Cheers, Gary
This is a new one to me. Thank you for sharing
Me too, but it appears to work.
Gday James, that’s a fantastic idea for work holding, you would almost think the soft jaws would last a decent amount of time considering its have the same shape consistently, the 3D moulds held up well and I didn’t realise just how strong they where when you were digging them out, it’s good to see your going well and staying safe, take care, Matty
Great video. Excellent work. Great idea. Thank you for sharing.
Pretty clever Mr. Kilroy, I like it! -jim
Great video James, for guys like me who didn't even know about that metal, I guess in older times they would have used lead. Very interesting solution, I noticed you in Abom79's vid of Windy Hill, looks like you all had a great time. Also thanks for the kind closing words, you keep safe as well, cheers!
Neat idea on the fill. Interesting way to hold them.
Great technique on the low temp alloy. Will definitely store that in my pro tip nugget drawer. Thanks.
I learned a new trick today. Thanks!
Nice Jack's for the shop
God bless and stay safe!
This Old Tony has a machine vice with a vertical axis pin in the center of what would normally be the fixed end of the vice. As I recall it has one side with a vee block built in it. You can spin the end around its axis to expose any end you want to use and at any angle. I suppose you could make a variety of end blocks if needed.
Great job!
I saw a UK foundry from the twenties that painted their moulds with graphite as a release agent, and perhaps as a sealant against reacting with the sand in the case of iron.
Fantastic Idea:})
Creative workholding method. Three comments. 1) Might add a link for sources for Cerrosafe. I get it from Brownells. 2) The Cerrosafe might release more easily if it's only just solidified when you try to separate the 3D print. I understand it shrinks over time. 3) Not a metallurgist but the hard spot in your casting might be improved with some post casting heat treatment. This would need to be done before machining as the CI may tend to change shape as the casting stresses relieve.
MICROMARK.COM is a source for low temp alloys and casting materials(resin, alloy, mold making), small tools, even 3D printers.
That was cool
put a deep prybar slit in the back next time so you can pry it out! looks good though
Do you think an epoxy product would also work in place of the low temp metal? Like a JB Weld or Bondo.
Probably so, with a much longer cure time no doubt. Might have to try it.
jay why not just print the insert to fit the part and seat in the notch of your jaws?
I thought about that. Probably try it in the future. Maybe the very near future now that we are discussing it.
" C - CLAMPS " = WAY TOO PRETTY ! :-)
Very creative workholding solution. Are you putting a threaded hole in the top of the stands or are they meant to be solid one height peices?
Probably so
What is the music you are using for your introduction/ending? And the piano blues that you use for background from time to time? Nice.
The intro track is called Get Back, it is one of those free to use RUclips deals. I was going to post a link but I can no longer find it in the search results. The other one is a piece call "Talkies" from a similar royalty free source.
If you can get it, typemetal from a newspaper or print shop would be good material to use. Typemetal is slightly harder than lead.
The old linotype! My grandfather was a printer, grew up with ink in my veins. I have several five gallon buckets of linotype around.
Thank God your Arteries carry Blood ! lol ! Thanks for the video.
If I remember my graphics art class correctly type was made of lead and antimony so that it held its size with heat. One expanded and one contracted. The height of letterpress type is critical for good print. Some part of the brain is saying .918” tall. I’m guessing the melting point is higher than the stuff in the video.
Actually Linotype and Monotype alloys are MUCH harder than pure lead. It had to be to hold up to the rigors of typesetting.
Lead has a BHN of 5 while Linotype is at 22 BHN, and Monotype is 28 BHN.
I have a few hundred pounds of Linotype squirreled away for adjusting the hardness of my bullet casting alloys.
@@glennstasse5698 Melting point of Linotype is 522°F and around 645°F pouring point.
wow.. great... now take a pair of jaws... carve away a 1/4" deep notch out of the faces but not to the bottom or side edges.. create a removable plate for the top surface.. lay the jaws on their back and fill it with your soft low temp material.. now you have a crazy soft pair of jaws to clamp anything.. when they get worn.. take them out.. heat them over a a ceramic bowl to melt the insert material without melting the aluminum and then repour.. so cost of lost material is minimal over the next decades.
don't forget to look around your scrap pile and see if you have any aluminum you can make a set of 5 or 6" tall jaws with .. to make it easier to clamp larger objects or larger rounds. heck.. i just envisioned using a pair of chain type vice grips.. that one could have on one jaw and throw the chains over and latch them on the other jaw to hold objects tight.. while milling or drilling between them.
Best way to melt Cerrosafe is a double boiler. Water boils at 212°F - dead simple.
is there a reason to not face the bottom on the lathe?
i mean dont get me wrong this looks like a lot more fun, just curious
Kinda hard to hold the main body with 2 degrees draft.
I get it being "the same poblem", but you could, presumably make a 2 degree temporary collet".
Still, it's exactly the same kind of problem, you have no flat surface to hold onto.
@@joshwalker5605 ...He has a shaper, if you are trying to start something!!
Paul Copeland what?
I can't find the company USA Jaws on E bay, did I hear that right?
Us_shop_tools sorry
what filament material did you use?
PLA with a .25 mm layer height
I'm not sure why you did a lot of what you did on this project.
If I understand what this is for correctly, it is just a support that matches the height of the bottom of the mill vise.
Is there any reason you needed this to be cast?
Seems to me you could have fabricated this out of some bar stock and have beed done long before you had made your pattern.
But if I had the same castings to machine, i would have chucked the round part in the lathe with some soft shims and turned the base flat and then went from there.
One thing is for sure about RUclips. No matter how you do something some know it all will have a better way to do it.
Could hear your socially distanced kids in the background. Glad to see you are practicing COVID-19 safety precautions. It is not to be scoffed at.