Wanted to take a second to thank you for posting this video. I just finished changing all four Rotors and Pads with little to no problems. Feel like a million bucks that my success saved my family a couple hundred dollars. It's a great feeling and I had the confidence to do this because of the quality of your video and explanations. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You.
Thank you Jim. You are the person to mention those washers on the back of the brackets on the rear. I've watched about 20 videos and i thought I was ready. Not hardly. After I had started I had to stop, put everything back together again and take the car to a local shop to put a torch to the 2 screws on all 4 wheels. Also I have to redo the rears because I have to alighn the caliper cross notch and put those washers back. Excellent tutorial, thank you.
It's always a pleasure to watch an experienced mechanic do a job. The only thing I am more careful about is with the grease. Always avoid or clean grease from any braking surfaces, pad faces and rotors. Also the calipers get very hot, excess grease on the clips could drip or wick on to the braking surfaces later. Apparently most mechanics don't worry about this. Jim changed gloves to avoid some of that.
Thank you for the video this is one of the best videos I've ever seen on a 2010 Honda Accord rear brake system. Out of all the videos on RUclips hardly anyone shows about putting in the spreader clips and also checking for the washers between the calipers bracket. Thank you, very detailed and professional.
Wow you made it seem so simple. I was skeptical at first however watching this video made me a shit ton more confident. Definitely going to give it a try.
@@jimthecarguy Jim Awesome video. what do you think about opening the bleeder valve when you fully push the piston back to get the fluid out that is near that area that you probably won't flush when you do the regular bleed flush and fill??? Thanks
I just did my front set of brake pads, they’re really good quality they’re the most expensive ceramic that advanced had, I replaced the hardware as well as the spreader clips, everything is nice and tight and where it should be but when I’m now driving down the road I’m hearing a grind or scrape that increases with my speed, not when my foot is on the brake. I’m hearing it specifically on the driver front, I’m going to take it all apart tomorrow and make sure hardware is seated and everything but I am stumped
Thanks for the video. I’m about to do the brakes on a 2010 accord for a friend who can’t afford to take it to a shop. I’ve done plenty of brakes, just not on this model. The video helped me know what to expect so I would know if there were any surprises or special tools needed. Thanks!
QUESTION: I’ve done brakes for years. When moving the piston to put in new brake pads , do you open up the brake fluid cap to alleviate the pressure? Or does that allow air into the system? Maybe it doesn’t matter if the cap stays closed during the entire process.
BIG QUESTION!!! First, great video. However, what's up with getting grease all over the brake pad friction surfaces??? I've always been told to keep the rotor and pad contact surfaces as uncontaminated as possible!
Welp I am back on this channel again! I already used it once to replace my suspension, and now I have another question @jimthecarguy. I am going to change my brakes and rotors because I have been hearing some metal grinding when I am braking. But Jim my accord also threw a p0420 problem with the CAT. Do you have any advice on this?
Jim. I have a 08 Honda Accord and I plan to change my own breaks going forward. I notice in your video that you do not use a torque wrench to tighten the 17mm caliper bolts. I have watched other videos where they are tightened to your vehicles torque specifications. Is it not needed to do this?
Thank you for watching.The indicator does go on the rear of the rotor .Watch how the old one comes off and reinstall the same way.Most of the time the indicator is on the bottom.
Jim, fantastic video. What happens if you can't get those thin washers to stay in place when you put the bolt back through? Is there some adhesive I could use to keep those from falling out? Also, are wire spreaders necessary on all installs? Pads I bought did not come with wire spreaders. Lastly, I changed out the rubber boots on the slider pins and when I put silicone grease on the pin, most of the silicone came out toward the front of the boot when I put the pin back in.. Seemed like I should have removed the slide pin and boot, and then put the silicone behind the rubber boot on the slider pin in order to grease it properly. Any thoughts?Thanks for all your fantastic videos.
Thank you for the video this is one of the best videos I've ever seen on a 2010 Honda Accord rear brake system. Out of all the videos on RUclips hardly anyone shows about putting in the spreader clips and also checking for the washers between the calipers bracket. Thank you, very detailed and professional.
Excellent video, thanks. I know this is an old vid, but I could use some help. Naturally, after easily replacing my 2 fronts and left rear, my right rear had to give me problems. The rotor turns fine, it's not seized, but I can't fully retract the caliper piston. It moves fine but then gets snagged with about 1/4 inch left to retract. I've tried everything that I could think of to get it to fully retract, with no luck. I tried spraying some PB Blaster on the piston cylinder, but that didn't work either. This is SO aggravating because I only need a little more retraction to fit the caliper over the new pads, but it just won't budge any further. Any ideas??? Would opening the bleeder make any difference? How about the E-Brake, does that have any impact on retracting the piston? I'm out of ideas, and I don't want to just buy a new caliper if I don't need one.
Great video Jim, I notice on this video 2010 honda accord the front brakes it had 2 of the springs/ pad spreaders , my is a 2008 Honda Accord v6 but when I changed my brakes there was no pad spring/ spreader only the back ones had it, should my car have them also or not my 2008 honda required. thanks Jim;; Virgil
Hi Jim; Could you make a video on how to adjust the e brake on a Honda Accord 2010. Thanks for taking the time making these fantastic instructional videos.
Going to Mavis in the morning to have brakes inspected on 2010 Honda Civic. When I go to brake I hear a flapping noise with some knocking. What could cause a sound like that. I don't want to be taken advantage of so I'm empowering myself with your knowledge. Thank you.
Your video empowered me. There was rotor glazing. So I had rotors and pads changed in the front. They wanted me to blow out brake line and remove sediment It was $79.00 to do that. ouch. Whole job totalled $380. Thanks for your video. I made sure I told the mechanic not to lose the washer. ahahaha
Noticed that the grease you used had a silver color similar to a graphite grease. I heard that a copper grease is better to use, appreciate any comment on this
In the rear on both sides do both get those washers on both sides because i took mine apart on a 2010 honda accord and only one side has the washers let me know pleade thks
Question. If the caliper is in front of the rotor the wear indicators go on top right? And if caliper is in the back of rotor wear indicator goes on the bottom? Is that right? Thanks a lot
I used a standard brake piston compression tool in combination with a small pry bar (aka screwdriver) to press the rear cylinder. What’s the significance for aligning the grooves with the caliper openings? I honestly forgot to verify that step? Should I take it all apart and repeat or is it ok?
I believe there is a tab on the pad itself which slides into that grove. If the piston is rotated differently it won't line up...and you can't get it back on.
When removing rotor screws; for 15 bucks you can get a JIS # 3 (Japanese Industrial Standard) impact screwdriver that will pay for itself over and over again... not to mention the shredded screw heads left behind when using a Phillips. (Mine came in two days.)
@@gsnwhodat Hi - Amazon "Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta P2x100 #2" ...I'll send you the link if you need it. It's also an impact screwdriver, so that's a plus. The price hasn't changed much. I don't have the Honda any more, but I still use the screwdriver - :' D
Can I put the same front rotors on the back for more breaking power !. I see the front brake is thicker than the rear brake which means the front has more breaking power than the rear because the rotor is thicker and the pads grabs the rotor faster than the rear pads on the rotors.
I just changed my brakes on my 2012 accord. It did not come with new clips or Springs so I went back and bought the hardware kit. Unfortunately nothing fit properly so I reused the old factory installed springs and clips. Everything looked pretty clean and slid around pretty good so I did not re-grease anything. Are used Napa ultra premium rotors and Akebono ProAct pads. Do you think this is OK? I just ran out of time and couldn't secure brand new clips in Springs.
Didn't know you could have the indicator facing in and still have the break pads on the wrong side. Totally lost track of what goes where. Even lost track of which clip goes where. Total nightmare. Next break installation will be much easier. Although, the clips seem to fit perfectly, and the indicators are both on the inside so I'm not sure how they're still making noise. Also put grease on outside of pads and on clips. Just gonna try to figure out what goes where based off this video (I have a 2010 Honda accord) then if it keeps making the noise just gonna have to see if new rotors make a difference. Although it wasn't making the noise before the break pad change. So much trouble.
the inner pad of the rear with the little pin should fit into the slot (+) on the capiler piston, but if the caliper piston is going counter clockwise when pressing the brake pedal- how it will turn? the brake pad cant turn.. im confused .. I saw a rebuild video for a caliper just like that, and he just turn the piston counter clockwise to take the piston out... maybe I just dont get how its work :\
Good question. The piston does not rotate the part that rotates is in the back of the piston in the bore. I hope that helps you to understand . Thanks for watching.
@@jimthecarguy Thank you sir for your patient... Im not understanding how the caliper actually works i guess, maybe some time you will be able to make video about parking brake adjustment :) You just got a subscriber, thank you for your time!
I think its all really preference. I drill them out and then never use them because you have studs that align rotors holes with the hub. On euro vehicles i actually leave them in because euro vehicles do not have studs to align the rotor and its a pain in the ass to align the rotor holes with the hub.
After watching this video I was able to change my Hondas brake pads and rotors today and saved over $1000 which is what the local shops around me were charging for the job.
No, the pistons on the rear calipers needs to be turned in. Some of the auto part stores sell a small cube shaped tool for less than $10 with the tips that fit inside the piston grooves. The cube will then fit on the end of a 3/8 drive extension so you can turn the piston in.
What is the importance of the rear knuckle washer? Bought a used car, and when changing my rear break pads. One of the washers was missing. Went to the dealer, they told me they did not have it in stock but they pulled up the wrong part number. I finally found it online. WASHER, REAR KNUCKLE - HONDA (90651-SWA-000) Thank you so much for your video, very detailed and informative. Great Job!
did a 2004 honda accord everything so rusty broke the bolts on the emergency brake bracket and the power steering bracket so disgusted how rusty these get
+Adam Ortiz This is the procedure. This is a video I have on the procedure. ruclips.net/video/RijNmGtnkqM/видео.html ,If you run into a problem let me know I should be able to talk you through. REMOVAL 1.Remove engine undercover RH. 2.Remove side inspection cover RH. 3.Loosen belt idler pulley. 4.Remove drive belt. 5.Remove A/C compressor mounting bolts (four). 6.Slide A/C compressor forward. 7.Disconnect alternator harness connector. 8.Remove alternator upper bolt and lower bolt.
+Adam Ortiz This is the procedure. This is a video I have on the procedure. ruclips.net/video/RijNmGtnkqM/видео.html ,If you run into a problem let me know I should be able to talk you through. REMOVAL 1.Remove engine undercover RH. 2.Remove side inspection cover RH. 3.Loosen belt idler pulley. 4.Remove drive belt. 5.Remove A/C compressor mounting bolts (four). 6.Slide A/C compressor forward. 7.Disconnect alternator harness connector. 8.Remove alternator upper bolt and lower bolt.
Wanted to take a second to thank you for posting this video. I just finished changing all four Rotors and Pads with little to no problems. Feel like a million bucks that my success saved my family a couple hundred dollars. It's a great feeling and I had the confidence to do this because of the quality of your video and explanations. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You.
Thank you Jim. You are the person to mention those washers on the back of the brackets on the rear. I've watched about 20 videos and i thought I was ready. Not hardly. After I had started I had to stop, put everything back together again and take the car to a local shop to put a torch to the 2 screws on all 4 wheels. Also I have to redo the rears because I have to alighn the caliper cross notch and put those washers back. Excellent tutorial, thank you.
Excellent instruction, changed pads and rotors in 2 and a half hour, saved myself a bunch of money
It's always a pleasure to watch an experienced mechanic do a job. The only thing I am more careful about is with the grease. Always avoid or clean grease from any braking surfaces, pad faces and rotors. Also the calipers get very hot, excess grease on the clips could drip or wick on to the braking surfaces later. Apparently most mechanics don't worry about this. Jim changed gloves to avoid some of that.
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching and your input.
Thank you for the video this is one of the best videos I've ever seen on a 2010 Honda Accord rear brake system. Out of all the videos on RUclips hardly anyone shows about putting in the spreader clips and also checking for the washers between the calipers bracket. Thank you, very detailed and professional.
Agree! Best video I have seen. Thank you.
Very thorough! This video will help me when I change my wife's brakes tomorrow morning. Thank you Jim.
I'm happy to help.
Wow you made it seem so simple. I was skeptical at first however watching this video made me a shit ton more confident. Definitely going to give it a try.
Its a fantastic opportunity for me because I'm retired and I need a new hobby and I like the work. Thanks
Thank you for this helpful video! I watched it before changing rear pads and rotors on my 2010 Accord. Everything was sucessful :)
Just replaced my neighbor's rear brakes, this was spot on, thank you!
Excellent video. You're a natural teacher! Thanks.
Thank you for your feedback.I am happy to share my knowledge.
Thank you so much for all your detailed videos! I am saving my Dad some money with this!
Thank you for watching and stopping by the shop.
@@jimthecarguy Jim Awesome video. what do you think about opening the bleeder valve when you fully push the piston back to get the fluid out that is near that area that you probably won't flush when you do the regular bleed flush and fill??? Thanks
Jim, Thanks for all the good tips. You make some amazing and helpful videos. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much! You show carefully, even using torque wrench!!!
Jim you sir are a professional good job !
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching.
I just did my front set of brake pads, they’re really good quality they’re the most expensive ceramic that advanced had, I replaced the hardware as well as the spreader clips, everything is nice and tight and where it should be but when I’m now driving down the road I’m hearing a grind or scrape that increases with my speed, not when my foot is on the brake. I’m hearing it specifically on the driver front, I’m going to take it all apart tomorrow and make sure hardware is seated and everything but I am stumped
It likely is you didnt clean/remove rust under the hardware so the brake pads are having a tough time backing off the rotor.
Thanks for the video. I’m about to do the brakes on a 2010 accord for a friend who can’t afford to take it to a shop. I’ve done plenty of brakes, just not on this model. The video helped me know what to expect so I would know if there were any surprises or special tools needed. Thanks!
Excellent walk through as usual. Thank you Jim!
Boy do you make this look easy. Thanks!
QUESTION: I’ve done brakes for years. When moving the piston to put in new brake pads , do you open up the brake fluid cap to alleviate the pressure? Or does that allow air into the system?
Maybe it doesn’t matter if the cap stays closed during the entire process.
BIG QUESTION!!! First, great video. However, what's up with getting grease all over the brake pad friction surfaces??? I've always been told to keep the rotor and pad contact surfaces as uncontaminated as possible!
John Gregory good question after the job is done we use brake clean
Explains everything so well!
Thank you for watching .
Look at the video at the 34:40 point .That is not a special tool it is needle noise plyers.
Awesome video, Please keep making them.
thank you
Welp I am back on this channel again! I already used it once to replace my suspension, and now I have another question @jimthecarguy. I am going to change my brakes and rotors because I have been hearing some metal grinding when I am braking.
But Jim my accord also threw a p0420 problem with the CAT. Do you have any advice on this?
Great Instructional video. Thank you!
Jim. I have a 08 Honda Accord and I plan to change my own breaks going forward. I notice in your video that you do not use a torque wrench to tighten the 17mm caliper bolts. I have watched other videos where they are tightened to your vehicles torque specifications. Is it not needed to do this?
.
Jim, great video. So the brake wear tabs go on the backside of the rotor. On the top of the pad or bottom? Thanks!
Thank you for watching.The indicator does go on the rear of the rotor .Watch how the old one comes off and reinstall the same way.Most of the time the indicator is on the bottom.
Jim, fantastic video. What happens if you can't get those thin washers to stay in place when you put the bolt back through? Is there some adhesive I could use to keep those from falling out? Also, are wire spreaders necessary on all installs? Pads I bought did not come with wire spreaders. Lastly, I changed out the rubber boots on the slider pins and when I put silicone grease on the pin, most of the silicone came out toward the front of the boot when I put the pin back in.. Seemed like I should have removed the slide pin and boot, and then put the silicone behind the rubber boot on the slider pin in order to grease it properly. Any thoughts?Thanks for all your fantastic videos.
your videos are great. love the detail you put into it... keep up the great work..
hector gutierrez y. Thank you for your feedback don't forget subscribe
Thank you for your feedback don't forget subscribe
Thank you for the video this is one of the best videos I've ever seen on a 2010 Honda Accord rear brake system. Out of all the videos on RUclips hardly anyone shows about putting in the spreader clips and also checking for the washers between the calipers bracket. Thank you, very detailed and professional.
Thanks Jim its a really good information. Awesome video!
Excellent video, thanks. I know this is an old vid, but I could use some help. Naturally, after easily replacing my 2 fronts and left rear, my right rear had to give me problems. The rotor turns fine, it's not seized, but I can't fully retract the caliper piston. It moves fine but then gets snagged with about 1/4 inch left to retract. I've tried everything that I could think of to get it to fully retract, with no luck.
I tried spraying some PB Blaster on the piston cylinder, but that didn't work either. This is SO aggravating because I only need a little more retraction to fit the caliper over the new pads, but it just won't budge any further.
Any ideas??? Would opening the bleeder make any difference? How about the E-Brake, does that have any impact on retracting the piston? I'm out of ideas, and I don't want to just buy a new caliper if I don't need one.
always remember to clean the new brake pads of any grease with brake clean before contact with rotor
Great video Jim, I notice on this video 2010 honda accord the front brakes it had 2 of the springs/ pad spreaders , my is a 2008 Honda Accord v6 but when I changed my brakes there was no pad spring/ spreader only the back ones had it, should my car have them also or not my 2008 honda required. thanks Jim;; Virgil
Great video, very detailed with good shots of everything your doing.
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted
Did all four brakes on my girlfriends car because of this video.. first time too!
Great instructions Jim
Thanks
+Joe Briggs Thank you for your feedback and for watching
excellent video. well described...thanks
What grease should I use like the stuff you used In this video? Thanks
Slide Grease. Synthetic
Good job, you make it look easy. Is it standard practice to replace the rotors now instead of turning them?
+Maxie House Thank you.No if the rotor can be turned down I will
Hi Jim;
Could you make a video on how to adjust the e brake on a Honda Accord 2010. Thanks for taking the time making these fantastic instructional videos.
As soon as one comes into the shop I will.Thank you for watching.
Jim- of my understanding - it's not necessary to put the 2 rotors screw back on.
Great video - thanks!
Going to Mavis in the morning to have brakes inspected on 2010 Honda Civic. When I go to brake I hear a flapping noise with some knocking. What could cause a sound like that. I don't want to be taken advantage of so I'm empowering myself with your knowledge. Thank you.
If the noise is in the front and only when you hit the brakes then it should be the rotors and brake pads need to be replaced
Your video empowered me. There was rotor glazing. So I had rotors and pads changed in the front. They wanted me to blow out brake line and remove sediment It was $79.00 to do that. ouch. Whole job totalled $380. Thanks for your video. I made sure I told the mechanic not to lose the washer. ahahaha
Bob B
Enjoy your videos! What brand,model hand impact driver do you have?
+Bob B Thank you.The driver I use is made by K-D tools model #1141. I've had it for years and it is great.
Awesome video. You saved my ass! Thank you.
Noticed that the grease you used had a silver color similar to a graphite grease. I heard that a copper grease is better to use, appreciate any comment on this
Good work as always jim.
+eddie martinez Thank you for watching
My car has started shaking at 70mph+ (2010 accord), just got the tires balanced. The tire shop said I could be my brakes. Thoughts?
Does it start to shake at 70 mph without touching the brakes or does it shake when you apply the brakes at that speed?
Are they ceramic pads
Best Guy
Very Helpful
Good information
In the rear on both sides do both get those washers on both sides because i took mine apart on a 2010 honda accord and only one side has the washers let me know pleade thks
Great video man!!!👍👍👍👍very informative
Appreciate it!
You’re the man!
Are the rotor screws a convenience thing or is it actually necessary to put them back on?
The screws are to hold the rotors on but if you had to you can leave them off
Question. If the caliper is in front of the rotor the wear indicators go on top right? And if caliper is in the back of rotor wear indicator goes on the bottom? Is that right? Thanks a lot
Thanks for watching.
I used a standard brake piston compression tool in combination with a small pry bar (aka screwdriver) to press the rear cylinder. What’s the significance for aligning the grooves with the caliper openings? I honestly forgot to verify that step? Should I take it all apart and repeat or is it ok?
Glad you enjoyed it
I believe there is a tab on the pad itself which slides into that grove. If the piston is rotated differently it won't line up...and you can't get it back on.
is it a rotor or disc? what is the difference? is that a new rotor you put back on or the same one resurfaced?
It is a rotor but some times we call them discs. The rotor was new. I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
is ok without those thing u put on top of the brake pads? coz the brake pads i got dont have the holes to put them but i old brake have them
Great video Jim !!
+N Smith Thank you for watching
Shouldn't you take the cap off the master cylinder before you compress the caliper piston? I didnt do it on my jeep and blew out the MS seals.
There is no need to open the cap as long as the brake fluid is not over filled.
Whats the tool called to turn the piston ?
When removing rotor screws; for 15 bucks you can get a JIS # 3 (Japanese Industrial Standard) impact screwdriver that will pay for itself over and over again... not to mention the shredded screw heads left behind when using a Phillips. (Mine came in two days.)
Thank you . Don't forget to subscribe.
Where did you buy yours from ?
@@gsnwhodat Hi - Amazon "Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta P2x100 #2" ...I'll send you the link if you need it. It's also an impact screwdriver, so that's a plus. The price hasn't changed much. I don't have the Honda any more, but I still use the screwdriver - :' D
Thanks Jim.
Hey jim i have a question for you , i have a Honda Accord Ex 2010 2.4 l the hand break light is on what is the problem ? Thank you
Make sure the hand brake is fully disengage. If fully disengage then the brake release switch could be bad or needs adjustment.
Can I put the same front rotors on the back for more breaking power !. I see the front brake is thicker than the rear brake which means the front has more breaking power than the rear because the rotor is thicker and the pads grabs the rotor faster than the rear pads on the rotors.
Serious question only.
I use a big pry bar as a screw driver and lodge it in the slots of the rear piston and turn it in like that.
Jim if you ever get the chance can you do a video for a oil change on a 2016 Chevy Trax? Thanks.
+James Vaughan As soon as I get one in the shop I will post it.
Torque specs for rear brake mounting bracket?
Tight
Does anyone have any idea where you can get those washers from, that goes on the mounting bracket?
I just changed my brakes on my 2012 accord. It did not come with new clips or Springs so I went back and bought the hardware kit. Unfortunately nothing fit properly so I reused the old factory installed springs and clips. Everything looked pretty clean and slid around pretty good so I did not re-grease anything. Are used Napa ultra premium rotors and Akebono ProAct pads. Do you think this is OK? I just ran out of time and couldn't secure brand new clips in Springs.
Hey what’s the part number for the front brakes ?
Is there a video on how to bleed this car?
Didn't know you could have the indicator facing in and still have the break pads on the wrong side. Totally lost track of what goes where. Even lost track of which clip goes where. Total nightmare. Next break installation will be much easier. Although, the clips seem to fit perfectly, and the indicators are both on the inside so I'm not sure how they're still making noise. Also put grease on outside of pads and on clips. Just gonna try to figure out what goes where based off this video (I have a 2010 Honda accord) then if it keeps making the noise just gonna have to see if new rotors make a difference. Although it wasn't making the noise before the break pad change. So much trouble.
I wish I'd have watched this video too before trying to change my breaks
hey jim what kine of file are you useing let me know thank
the inner pad of the rear with the little pin should fit into the slot (+) on the capiler piston, but if the caliper piston is going counter clockwise when pressing the brake pedal- how it will turn? the brake pad cant turn.. im confused
..
I saw a rebuild video for a caliper just like that, and he just turn the piston counter clockwise to take the piston out... maybe I just dont get how its work :\
Good question. The piston does not rotate the part that rotates is in the back of the piston in the bore. I hope that helps you to understand . Thanks for watching.
@@jimthecarguy
Thank you sir for your patient... Im not understanding how the caliper actually works i guess, maybe some time you will be able to make video about parking brake adjustment :)
You just got a subscriber, thank you for your time!
do the rotors screws fro Honda really serve any purpose. i hear that many remove them and leave them off.
Actually they hold the rotor in place until the tire is installed You can leave them out without any problems but I would not recommend that
I think its all really preference. I drill them out and then never use them because you have studs that align rotors holes with the hub. On euro vehicles i actually leave them in because euro vehicles do not have studs to align the rotor and its a pain in the ass to align the rotor holes with the hub.
nissan toyota doesnt use screws on rotors. what the heck for
Are you supposed to bleed the brakes after a job like this?
No need to bleed the brakes unless you replaced a line or a caliper
After watching this video I was able to change my Hondas brake pads and rotors today and saved over $1000 which is what the local shops around me were charging for the job.
can i use anti seize in place of grease?
Hell no.
Never push a brake piston back without cracking the bleeder , if you want to do it correctly and avoid creating more problems and preventing some.
can i use a c-clamp to push the piston back?
try putting a used brake pad on the piston to avoid damage
No, the pistons on the rear calipers needs to be turned in. Some of the auto part stores sell a small cube shaped tool for less than $10 with the tips that fit inside the piston grooves. The cube will then fit on the end of a 3/8 drive extension so you can turn the piston in.
Don’t understand the dislikes on this video 🤔???? Tyvm for the info.
Thank you . You just can't please everyone.
What is the importance of the rear knuckle washer? Bought a used car, and when changing my rear break pads. One of the washers was missing. Went to the dealer, they told me they did not have it in stock but they pulled up the wrong part number. I finally found it online. WASHER, REAR KNUCKLE - HONDA (90651-SWA-000) Thank you so much for your video, very detailed and informative. Great Job!
WASHER, REAR KNUCKLE - HONDA (90651-SWA-000)
Thank you for your feedback and for watching.The washer is important because it keeps the caliper lined up correctly.
How many miles on this one Jim
+john1240able Hi John This one has 120,000
what is that c-clamp name for the rear caliper
charler charles it is just called a piston reset tool
thanks for your answer
did a 2004 honda accord everything so rusty broke the bolts on the emergency brake bracket and the power steering bracket so disgusted how rusty these get
Honda keeps making things unnecessarily difficult - this time it's the rear brake calipers.
i love how new englanders say "honder accoad".
+happy543210 Believe or not I'm from N.J.Thank you for watching
wow I wouldnt file the brackets to get rid of rust. just use a copper brush with lots of brake cleaner
I m done. It wasn’t as long as this video. Come on man.
Omg the introduction is to long
? wow dude....
is taking the alternator on a 2002 infinity i35 the same as a 02 maxima?
+Adam Ortiz Yes it should be the same.
+jimthecarguy so if I watched a video on how to do it on a 02 maxima should be identical for most part
+Adam Ortiz This is the procedure. This is a video I have on the procedure. ruclips.net/video/RijNmGtnkqM/видео.html ,If you run into a problem let me know I should be able to talk you through.
REMOVAL
1.Remove engine undercover RH.
2.Remove side inspection cover RH.
3.Loosen belt idler pulley.
4.Remove drive belt.
5.Remove A/C compressor mounting bolts (four).
6.Slide A/C compressor forward.
7.Disconnect alternator harness connector.
8.Remove alternator upper bolt and lower bolt.
+Adam Ortiz This is the procedure. This is a video I have on the procedure. ruclips.net/video/RijNmGtnkqM/видео.html ,If you run into a problem let me know I should be able to talk you through.
REMOVAL
1.Remove engine undercover RH.
2.Remove side inspection cover RH.
3.Loosen belt idler pulley.
4.Remove drive belt.
5.Remove A/C compressor mounting bolts (four).
6.Slide A/C compressor forward.
7.Disconnect alternator harness connector.
8.Remove alternator upper bolt and lower bolt.