The real reason i quit mobile mechanics! Audi TT Clutch, cambelt, and haldex in one day goes wrong!
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- Опубликовано: 18 май 2024
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Great video Bryn, glad to see you back on the Mk1's looking forward to upcoming content!
True! I did my bam s cambelt few years ago.. it took an hour to realise that engine mount just has to stay there and work way aroud it. Well done Bryn! Not an easy job as a mobile mechanic.
You are always looked forward to, as you are a TT passionate guy! Cheers!
Thanks :)
Having done my timing belt and water pump yesterday, it's reassuring to see you go about it exactly the same way as I did 🤣
Looking forward to seeing you back in a mk1 mate.
There’s a fair bit of mk1 content incoming…. Big plans to be revealed!
Just had the clutch changed on mine following a slave cylinder failure. Thought about doing it myself after watching your guide multiple times but decided to let a garage do it instead. Annoying thing was 800 miles prior I'd just dropped the subframe to do the downpipe and turbo which id followed your excellent videos on. I think one thing that puts people off the subframe is the one time use bolts and cost to replace them. The bolts are also starting to be come hard to get.
Good to see you back in Mk1 again! I'm doing a major refurbish of the rear including tank off and corrosion proofing the rear subframe and trailing arms, etc. Replacing bolts that I can get as well. Would love to see vid on replacing rear gearbox drive shaft seals and inner CV joint boots! Keep up the great videos.
Your videos have been invaluable, thank you!
Great vid Bryn! Using a pen to mark crank, cam(s) and belt like you've done and transferring these marks to the new belt means it's really easy to see if you've done it wrong... 2 full rotations of the crank and rechecking to be 100% sure. Good tips for everyone, thanks!
On my second mark1 tt. You're the man.
Nice to see you under a TT. We have 2. We have done steering rack, front end rebuilds and leak deletions so far... Starting on the rear ends next.
Brilliant - as always - thanks for sharing mate
As always, an excellent video Bryn.
Top quality video mate wish i had you to work on my mk1
At the moment I need an MOT and whatever is found along with gearbox and Haldex system fingers🤞
I still for safety mark old belt and pulleys, transfer marks onto new belt and then fit with marks realigned . Have a S3 8L so your video's all help. Next weekend doing haldex oil and filter
Yep, marking and transferring marks, then counting 68 teeth, and then confirming markers line up is the way to go! I’ve seen pulleys that have moved on the crank, this method will highlight that quickly, due to the way it confirms everything
Still got a rough idle on mine and get an awful creaking when I reverse so gonna hopefully get them sorted soon , nice video thx
Great video as usual, a joy to watch :)
I am currently updating my Mk1 cabriolet -01 with:
Front shock absorbers
Front control arms
Front and rear discs and pads
Gluing the glass window on the convertible top
Painting the rear fenders
Greetings from Sweden
Sounds like a good list of jobs!
Nice video mate, both you and fellow enthusiast Dom have helped me do a few jobs on mine over the past few years. In need of some tlc currently and I've been in two minds whether to sell or not due to now owning a van aswell. She's 25 next year so I'd like to hold off selling until then atleast, see her into a milestone. 👊
Great video 😊 I miss my mk1 225 😢
Good to see you back on the 8N's. Also good to chat with you about the poor quality of parts nowadays. I'd noticed that.
I've got an 8N for the Mrs as a cheap seat time car. But at £350. You can imagine I do in fact, have a list as long as my arm! 😅
Hi Bryn, Got to do the chains and DSG clutch on my 3.2. Looking forward to some content in that area if possible. All the best, keep up the good work!
Got a video filmed, just waiting to edit
You make it look so easy Bryn… 👏👏
Thanks, I have done it countless times so that helps :)
As long as the arm...
The £1k bargain isn't a bargain.
Clutch slave cylinder went. Whilst in there sorted the clutch and fly wheel which were on their last legs.
Now the corroded power steering pipes which I moved to do the clutch have given way and pee'd their juice onto the floor. Parts wise under £1k, but pita wise, annoying.
I think it will be a nice car. When I have had the chance to drive it, fantastic. Lights at night have been awful. Another one for the list.
Hi Bryn great informative video as always, nearly rebuilt my whole tt watching them, I've got a worrying problem, an acrid sweet smell in the cabin, and the windscreen condensates up when the blower is on, I suspect the heater matrix has failed either tgat or the flange connector o rings, any advice? Cheers Ray, 2005, 3.2 v6
I've got 3 at the moment. A 225 Coupe, a 225 Roadster, and a 180 FWD coupe. I'm doing the clutch on my 180 and I agree completely with you about the subframe. I - stupidly - pulled the trans out with the subframe still in place. There was no way I was going to try to get it back in without dropping it.
Glad to see you under a TT again.
I've heard that some people unbolt the bevel box from the trans and leave it bolted to the motor. Have you ever tried that?
If you do that, you’ve just then got 2 akward splines to line up instead of one, so yes I’ve done it that way a couple of times for varying reasons, but I don’t like it
@@BWSTT Good to know. Now I don't have to try it :-)
Hi, why not the Gates kit now ?
Cheers Bob
Great content interesting about the one tooth out we had same problem with a TT engine we have in a golf and thought I had done something wrong ! But sorted in the end
One my mk1 the twin fuel pipes on top left have started to crack is there a replacement available ? I can not find any
Thanks
You just need standard 8mm fuel line and move over the fittings
Bryn its a full engine and gearbox rebuilds with lots of racing bits. Coz Prawn's wondering if I'll go up against him
Bam transfer case is noisy with vibration. Needs to be done😢
Bryn please please please do s in dept video of a 180 4wd fuel tank removal as i cannot find a video for love nor money on youtube. I have a leak above shaft and need a video. Be the first person to tackle this.
It’s the same on 180 and 225, I will be doing this at some point but not very soon
@@BWSTT brilliant thanks mate, great video as usual
Always thought the belt was horrendous and needed the engine dropping. Still wouldnt attempt it myself but you make it look sane at least
It’s honestly just awkward to see what you’re doing, that’s about it
@@BWSTT Do you have an end to end guide without removing this mount ?
@@fulhamchappie not yet, I will be doing one
@@BWSTT Welcome to guide me on video :)
What do you mean the Gates cambelt kit isn't any good any more ?????
I'm about to fit a gates belt to my AUM Golf..
The hydraulic damper is noisy at idle and the roller tensioner mounting hole tolerance is off
I need your input on sthg: At a garage, I had the engine out for some work and we were gonna also do the cambelt. After charging me for the engine out and in job he insisted on charging full price for the cambelt on top. I was like mate, with the engine out the cambelt and water pump is like 10 min tops, how you want full price?
I’m with you, that was a pretty sh*tty of them
Hopefully getting myself a MK1 TT asap :)
They’re a great car!
@@BWSTT it’s my birthday on Tuesday, based on NI and looking for one that’s within my budget :)
I am in the states with a 225 and I think a cracked exhaust manifold. Is there a aftermarket manifold that is good quality that I can replace the OEM style with and keep my ko4?
The only option is the “chinafold” but they require machining and don’t always line up exactly, so will be easier to fit a stock one
Good video dont look a vad job 👍👍👍
My local mechanics takes the engine out to do the clutch. He finds it easier and replaces the crank seal whilst its out....
Clutch is 5-6 hrs this way- I can’t see engine removal being easier
I've got a long list and mot in less than a month 😬
why is gates water pump kit no longer good?
The tolerance on the mounting hole of the roller tensioner is too big, so it doesn’t sit securely on the mounting bolt