Dan Campbell No big difference, I just know body filler is a bit cheaper so used that, some fillers sand better than others so that's the only difference I could see.
Watch the video by the gunman. He blocks his roof after painting and uses a mil gauge to measure the thickness. He started with 600 and moved up to 3000 and he only went through .17 microns of mil thickness. I prefer 3 coats when I know I have a run, but 2 coats is plenty of clear to sand out
Have you measured the clear coat thickness with a digital paint depth meter? I’m curious to know how much clear is left compared to the surrounding areas ?
@lozagon are you saying, you clearly see that there is a run in the paint, and not in the clear? for a shop to deliver your car to you with a run, it must've been a low cost paint job. but aside from that. this demonstration will only work on clear.. because if youre sanding down paint, you're going to need to reshoot more paint. where here, clear is the gloss and protection of that paint..
I did this the following day and it was only air dried. I had a fender that looked like Niagra falls. The clear was finish one. I dunno if I got lucky, but it's doable in a pinch if you need the car out the door.
LOL !! you did not get to see end result close up cause i guaranteed he burnt thru on the edges !! DO NOT USE A DA GETTING A RUN OUT PEOPLE!! now the putty method does indeed work ,but use a block lol !!
yeah ok good, but very often the runs are still visible at certain angle and very difficult to get rid of!i you have to have plenty of clear on top and if the run occurs on the first coat with that metallic paint will distort the flakes!!
The Glaze? You can get it at several places in Jax. Finish Masters On Beach BlVD at Southside, across from Harbor Freight. Kemperle On St Johns Bluff going south Just after Beach BLVD Sherwin Williams, only one sells automotive paint products, I think they are in Orange Park...I get deliveries from them, never been to the physical store. And finally, which I never recommend Single Source on Philips Hwy South of 295/9A before 9B.
Using that DA sander is not a good idea for Harry homeowner. As mentioned by others, start with a fresh razor blade and scrape the bulk of the run off first. Then you can move to 400-600 grit on a block. I am shocked that he didn't cut thru on this job. Must have had a lot of clear on that panel.
Paint paddle with 1200 grit wet or dry sand paper wrapped around it. Stay on top of the run when standing. Then go to 2000 grit and buff. Idk who shoots a fender vertical, indtead of horizontal, there would be less of a chance of running.
Don't have runs to start with, first you must use a product your use to and check temp that day. put cat. in paint and let set for 30 min before use, also humidity plays a big role in painting, it delays drying time. there is a science to mixing and spraying, it takes time to learn these things. There is a fine line between orange peal and sags. You just have to learn with time.
@@AC-kl2gf I totally agree. That's like saying a good carpenter doesn't bend nails? If you're pounding fifty pounds of nails a day, you're going to bend a couple nails. It's part of the job.
That's a good trick I've used it before my question is why are you mixing the bondi with the spreader shouldn't you be using a paint stick so you don't get your spreader messed up with some Bondo and some hardener trying to spread it on and getting the wrong mixture and then it won't stand off mix your Bondo with a paint stick it saves you a lot of grief
There can't be enough clear left after doing this. It should be flow coated at the least. If the painter is running clear this badly, he shouldn't be painting.
That’s a diabolical run on that panel it would be quicker to repaint obviously that panel been around sometime for the lacquer to be rock hard no way would you attempt to repair that run under normal circumstances lacquer will be to soft could be misleading to a d i y enthusiastic enjoyed watching
First of all, a good painter shouldn't causes a run. well, ok, no one is perfect. Sh** happens, and when it does, don't fake it by removing the clear coat and replace it with polish. Redo if it is taking you more time. You screwed the job, you fix it right, don't screw your customer.
This works, but the problem is after all that sanding even if you don't burn threw the paint you 're taking all the protective clear coat off the car. the clear is what protects the car from the sun, and elements. I guarantee in a month, or two that clear will be all faded away, and you will have to repaint anyway. The best way to deal with a run is to use a razor blade with tape on the edges knock the heavy part of the run out, and then wet sand it out. (20 years exp in auto body).
40 years here. I always guide coat the run, then use a razor blade Then block it with 1200 then 3000 and then buff it. I tried the putty one time and it scared the dickens out of me. thought I would sand through it for sure.
@@Telelikeitis That is what use to do for years never go wrong using body filler or putty not a good idea the hardener mixed in body filler and putty might bite the clear coat when clear is not given enough time to dry
You have zero years experience if you think anything you said is worth a damn. The clear coat literally won't hold a shine if it's too thin, so clearly there's enough left to protect the basecoat. Also, the entire point of using the filler is to avoid taking down clear anywhere other than the run which is built up extremely high. By the time it's said and done it's no different than sanding a car back flat for a nicer finish and more depth. I guess Aston Martin doesn't know what they're doing? Nice flat finishes are scary?
Авто/Мото
This method does work, I've done it many times with good results I even made my own video on it.
Hi! On your video you used a body filler, and in this video he used a glazing putty. Are the results the same?
Dan Campbell No big difference, I just know body filler is a bit cheaper so used that, some fillers sand better than others so that's the only difference I could see.
William Walker I'd recommend force drying it with infrared curing lights or leaving for a week.
How many coats of clear do you guys apply on the panels? Does it matter with this method?
Oscar Contreras 3 coats of clear
that fender must have a gallon of clear on it..
Lol very true that what i was thinking of
I don’t think there is any clear left after all that sanding .. only a couple microns that will barely protect the panel from UV light
Watch the video by the gunman. He blocks his roof after painting and uses a mil gauge to measure the thickness. He started with 600 and moved up to 3000 and he only went through .17 microns of mil thickness. I prefer 3 coats when I know I have a run, but 2 coats is plenty of clear to sand out
This process that Marty Dewey has shown on how to take out a run has saved me 4 redo's so far. Thanks!
Marty trained a couple guys and I at the Sherwin Williams training center in Illinois the last couple days. He knows his stuff...
Marty- that is mental. Cant believe I have never thought of that. Thanks.
This technique is absolutely scary! and takes time
And now we go from 1200 to.......oh fuck I've gone through 🤣🤣🤣
Very nice video allot of useful tips.
Masking tape on both sides of run with 1000 grit works excellent.
right? who the fuck starts with 320 on clear?
@@nickprice6451 I would a pain to get the scratches out for sure using 320 grit.
Great job..I've done this method and no I didn't spray gallons of clear. I also didn't start with this gentlemans starting grit.
Have you measured the clear coat thickness with a digital paint depth meter? I’m curious to know how much clear is left compared to the surrounding areas ?
Marty is like a painter scientist
@lozagon
are you saying, you clearly see that there is a run in the paint, and not in the clear? for a shop to deliver your car to you with a run, it must've been a low cost paint job. but aside from that. this demonstration will only work on clear.. because if youre sanding down paint, you're going to need to reshoot more paint. where here, clear is the gloss and protection of that paint..
Wish I knew this last week
How would one go about removing water drops that dripped on to the clear while spraying the clear coat ?
I did this the following day and it was only air dried. I had a fender that looked like Niagra falls. The clear was finish one. I dunno if I got lucky, but it's doable in a pinch if you need the car out the door.
So the filler is a buffer to the low spots?
OH I C, Good Sale!
LOL !! you did not get to see end result close up cause i guaranteed he burnt thru on the edges !! DO NOT USE A DA GETTING A RUN OUT PEOPLE!! now the putty method does indeed work ,but use a block lol !!
He had the edges taped, also a mistake, tape adhesive and compound do not mix and have you lookin like an epileptic trying to hold the buffer.
yeah ok good, but very often the runs are still visible at certain angle and very difficult to get rid of!i you have to have plenty of clear on top and if the run occurs on the first coat with that metallic paint will distort the flakes!!
hi the clear coat has run on the first lay ..ı was gonna do more of ıt now if i sand and buff it can i reapply clear coat ?
Where can i get that product? I live in Jacksonville Fl and looked everwhere for this. Thankyou in advance.
The Glaze? You can get it at several places in Jax. Finish Masters On Beach BlVD at Southside, across from Harbor Freight. Kemperle On St Johns Bluff going south Just after Beach BLVD Sherwin Williams, only one sells automotive paint products, I think they are in Orange Park...I get deliveries from them, never been to the physical store. And finally, which I never recommend Single Source on Philips Hwy South of 295/9A before 9B.
You dont have to use filler you can use guide coat if your careful not to put it on wet or it will frysaves wasting putty and easier to colour sand
Is this just regular glaze
Using that DA sander is not a good idea for Harry homeowner. As mentioned by others, start with a fresh razor blade and scrape the bulk of the run off first. Then you can move to 400-600 grit on a block. I am shocked that he didn't cut thru on this job. Must have had a lot of clear on that panel.
very true not a good idea with DA he must have put 6 coat or clear lol , i never use 400 or 6 00 on runs after blade just block 1500 than 2000
good day with that number of sandpaper you start and what is the scale of dogfish you use in the process thanks
what is the name of the filler your using can you give us a link
that's a bit of overkill
Paint paddle with 1200 grit wet or dry sand paper wrapped around it. Stay on top of the run when standing. Then go to 2000 grit and buff. Idk who shoots a fender vertical, indtead of horizontal, there would be less of a chance of running.
Don't have runs to start with, first you must use a product your use to and check temp that day. put cat. in paint and let set for 30 min before use, also humidity plays a big role in painting, it delays drying time. there is a science to mixing and spraying, it takes time to learn these things. There is a fine line between orange peal and sags. You just have to learn with time.
no you wont if you know what you are doing and I been spraying for 40 years.
Robert Thomas you mean to tell me you have been spraying for 40 years? And never signed your name on a few? Wow your a paint god...
when i was in a factory being rushed yea.
thats how I avoid run's, I don't run, I took time and effort to learn how not to .
Razor blade
Risky very risky. I've seen it be done with positive results though.
Scraping a razor blade over the run is faster, easier, and less material.
But why didn't you show the outcome
State farm won't pay the body shop for necessary buffing required to deliver a quality repair to the customer. Surprised to see them post this video
state farm sucks
He burnt threw with 400
😅
You get any run that bad u shouldn't be painting
Mate....u must be not painter if u saying this.
@@AC-kl2gf I totally agree. That's like saying a good carpenter doesn't bend nails? If you're pounding fifty pounds of nails a day, you're going to bend a couple nails. It's part of the job.
That's a good trick I've used it before my question is why are you mixing the bondi with the spreader shouldn't you be using a paint stick so you don't get your spreader messed up with some Bondo and some hardener trying to spread it on and getting the wrong mixture and then it won't stand off
mix your Bondo with a paint stick it saves you a lot of grief
There can't be enough clear left after doing this. It should be flow coated at the least. If the painter is running clear this badly, he shouldn't be painting.
H'mm, your technique is a bit rough mind, fast DA, and the side if a piece of wood to finish????
I think not.
That’s a diabolical run on that panel it would be quicker to repaint obviously that panel been around sometime for the lacquer to be rock hard no way would you attempt to repair that run under normal circumstances lacquer will be to soft could be misleading to a d i y enthusiastic enjoyed watching
First of all, a good painter shouldn't causes a run. well, ok, no one is perfect. Sh** happens, and when it does, don't fake it by removing the clear coat and replace it with polish. Redo if it is taking you more time. You screwed the job, you fix it right, don't screw your customer.
This works, but the problem is after all that sanding even if you don't burn threw the paint you 're taking all the protective clear coat off the car. the clear is what protects the car from the sun, and elements. I guarantee in a month, or two that clear will be all faded away, and you will have to repaint anyway. The best way to deal with a run is to use a razor blade with tape on the edges knock the heavy part of the run out, and then wet sand it out. (20 years exp in auto body).
40 years here. I always guide coat the run, then use a razor blade Then block it with 1200 then 3000 and then buff it. I tried the putty one time and it scared the dickens out of me. thought I would sand through it for sure.
Telelikeitis yes that would be the best way.
It might be a single-stage urethane with no clear-coat.
@@Telelikeitis That is what use to do for years never go wrong using body filler or putty not a good idea the hardener mixed in body filler and putty might bite the clear coat when clear is not given enough time to dry
You have zero years experience if you think anything you said is worth a damn. The clear coat literally won't hold a shine if it's too thin, so clearly there's enough left to protect the basecoat. Also, the entire point of using the filler is to avoid taking down clear anywhere other than the run which is built up extremely high. By the time it's said and done it's no different than sanding a car back flat for a nicer finish and more depth. I guess Aston Martin doesn't know what they're doing? Nice flat finishes are scary?
And if it's just clear coat you don't need the Bondo wet sand and clear it again